First off, I'd like to wish you and yours a happy new year. Now onto the question. I have an 02 Max Se with only 39000 miles on it. The stealership is hounding me about my scheduled maintenance that I haven't exactly kept up on. I've had the oil changed every 3000(at the dealership), had the 7500 mile maintenance done at 22500 (brake cleaning, oil filter, oil change, MOC engine oil conditioner, blah, blah,blah), and I add Chevron Techron injector treatment at each oil change.....but that's about it. I changed the air filter and the other minor stuff myself. So they're telling me that I must do the 30000 mile maintenance at a cost of $399 to keep my car within the warranty. Granted, I'm past the 3 yr/36000 miles, but I guess that the drivetrain is covered to 50000.....which will be voided if I don't do this 30000 maintenance.
So, in looking at what is done in the 30000 mile service, I see some things that really baffle me. First, replace the tranny fluid??? Already? At only 30000 they're saying that the tranny fluid needs to be changed. I've read horror stories (here at maxima.org) that the tranny just doesn't shift the same after a fluid swap. Is this truly necessary already? It also states to replace engine coolant, radiator cap, diff oil, fuel filter, hub grease, add MOC oil conditioner, air filter, service brakes, and a bunch of other crap. Oh, they also told me that my serpentine belt is dryrotted and needs to be replaced at a cost of $139.00. I'm assuming that this is something that I should not ignore....but already...at only 39,000 miles?
My main question is this.....Do I really need to do this expensive $399.00 maintenance, or can I go a la carte and just do the stuff that I feel needs to be done (fuel filter, brake cleaning, etc.). I really dont care about their warranty threats, but I'm just wondering what is TRULY necessary to do to my Max, at now 39,000 miles, to keep her in good running order. Thanks in advance for your replies and have a great new year!

~Stingray

 

Tell the dealership to shove it. Refusal to bend over for them will not void your warranty as long as you have been keeping up with reasonable maintenance.

It'd the end of the year and they sound like they are getting desperate.

 

Yeah, the stealership tries to make money off these scheduled maintenances. At your mileage, I would just change the oil, replace brake pads if low (replace rotors if warped), change coolant, change tranny fluid (it's good to replace this every 30,000), and air filter. Belts shouldn't be replaced until around 50,000-60,000 miles (unless they are totally worn). Plugs, too. That's about it.

 

So Mixx, You're basically telling me that I should do the 30000 mile maintenance. Not because of the warranty stuff, but simply for the benefit of my Max. I'm surprised, I would've thought that I could wait on the tranny fluid and coolant change. And the plugs....that really surprises me that they would be due for replacement also. The plugs aren't even mentioned in the $399 maintenance scope of work. Anyways, thanks for your reply.

 

The stealers around Chicago have the manufacturer recommended maintenance tier and the their own Premium maintance tier where they "go above and beyond" Nissan's schedule so the can bleed more $$$ out of your wallet. If your dead set on going to the stealer, see if they will give you a quote for just doing Nissan's schedule, not their own. Many won't even do that.

 

Sorry, if I mislead you. The plugs should be changed around 60,000 miles or so. As far as the coolant and the tranny fluid changes, you can do these yourself to save you money. It's not really hard, just drain and replace. At your mileage, I wouldn't think they (the coolant and tranny fluids) need flushed out. IMHO, I would do the tranny fluid change every 30,000 miles or so. It tends to lose its viscosity around 30,000 miles. Coolant should be replaced every 2 years or so.

 

It also states to replace engine coolant, radiator cap, diff oil, fuel filter, hub grease, add MOC oil conditioner, air filter, service brakes, and a bunch of other crap.
Engine coolant-The more it breaks down, the higher amount of electrolites. ( a small voltage in your cooling system, it eats at aluminum and rubber)--Save your self the trouble of having to replace a water pump and change it...
Transmission fluid - Not a bad idea. You can look at it and feel it.
Rad cap - your call.
Fuel filter - Your call- not necessary if you use quality gas IMO.
Diff oil? ..........
Hub grease - IMO-no
oil conditioner - No
air filter - check it, if its clean ask them why should you change it
service brakes - well, do they need serviced?
$400 isn't bad if they are actually servicing all those parts, brake system included.
Probably $400 for the necessary fluid changes, fuel filter, cap and inspection of other stuff..

 

You should definetly change your tranny fluid soon. The stated interval for changing automatic transmission fluid is every 30,000 miles. If you do this regularly, you will not have tranny problems and it will last the life of the car. I am squeamish about automatics and I change mine every 15,000 with my own loving hands - some call it overkill but I'm rounding 220,000 miles on the original transmission. Anyway doing it 9,000 miles late isn't much to worry about, your transmission is probably perfectly fine. Just get it done sooner than later and try to stick to every 30,000 as a rule of thumb.

-Engine coolant should be flushed annually.
-Radiator cap will not need to be replaced.
-There is no differential oil on an automatic transmission, it's inside the transmission case and is lubricated with the same ATF that you will be changing every 30,000 miles.
-Fuel filter is probably a pretty good idea to change, as a dirty filter robs both power and fuel economy.
-Hubs don't need to be greased because we have sealed wheel bearings.
-I have no idea what MOC oil conditioner is but I am generally against oil additives, especially in such a low mileage engine.
-Air filter should at least be inspected (this takes 5 mins to do yourself) and replaced if dirty (this is as easy as inspecting it).
-Your brakes should at least be inspected as well, but they're probably not due yet.

This is a bunch of crap. Belts do not rot, they wear and fray. If the belt is worn, it should be replaced - but I doubt this is the case with only 39,000 miles. $139 sounds like a lot of money for this to be replaced.

What it comes down to is this: the dealer is trying to take you for a ride. They're trying to rip you off. Most of these maintenance items are easily done in one's home driveway or garage for a fraction of the cost that they're trying to charge you - it all depends on how willing you are to do your own work. If you don't want to do it yourself, a reputable shop should be able to do it for you. Maintenance is important - if you keep up on it, you'll get well over 200,000 smooth, powerful miles out of your Maxima.

Take a minute and read this, its a post I put up some time ago in response to another guy asking about maintenance. Some of these items you don't have to worry about yet, but take a look anyway.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....96#post3757596

 

Stingray,

Bottom line is to read the owner's manual and follow Nissan's (not the dealer's) minimum requirements and save your receipts. The "preferred" service schedule is nothing more than a tool to line the dealers' pockets and its a ploy that plays on people's insecurities.

IMHO I would get the transmission flushed, but there is not need to do this at the stealership. As far as plugs, they are supposed to last 100k mi, but they probably won't. But by the time they do wear out, the powertrain warranty will have expired. Fuel filter is a non-serviceable item as far as Nissan is concerned and replacing it is not a requirement to protect your warranty. Coolant does not have to be replaced once a year.

In conclusion, read the owner's manuals and don't get suckered by your dealership.

 

As far as all service. you can do it anywhere. Before you get your trans flushed call Nissan and make sure that their transmission fluid doesn't have any special additives that the compatible fluid doesn't have.....When I worked at the oil shop in my younger years we stopped doing honda flushes because of the trans problems we had caused. We ended up calling honda, and to find out the "dextron mercon" fluid that was "compatible" didn't have special additives that Honda had in their fluid. Nissan says to use Nissan Matic "D" and that Dextron III/Mercon ATF or equivalent may also be used, It's just a good idea to make sure Nissan Matic "D" doesn't have any special additives..$139.99 is only about $50.00 higher than taking it to a pit shop and you will be assured it is filled to the proper level and has genuine fluid.----The pit shop techs typically don't know how to acurately check the fluid and can easily over/under fill it, IMHO.
You can check the belts yourself VERY easily.---Pop your hood. Take a flashlight look at the grooved part of the belts..Do they have more than 3 cracks per inch? (3 cracks per inch is a general rule, some people go longer, some people change them sooner)
-This time of year check for coupons in the paper and mail. Alot of shops have specials on complete radiator flushes for $50-$60 locally. (Iowa of course.) Once a year is kind of excessive..Using tap water will cause it to break down quicker, again becuase of the electrolites. (very small voltage in the water that isn't there with spring water.)

 

Here's my story: I've got 18K miles on my '02, and they said I've got carbon buildup, due to low mileage, and recommended an "emissions service" for $140. I think its baloney or are they right?

02 SE 6Spd

 

shy it is possible.. When you drive your car do you let it fully warm up and drive it at least 3-4 miles at operating temperature?? This happens alot when cars are driven short distances and has not much to do with mileage....Cars build condensation (moisture) in the most fluids. When the car is driven short distances the condensation mixes with the fluid and doesn't have a chance to burn out....Turn the car off when its cold, more condensation builds up, drive it a small distance more moisture blends with fluids and doesn't burn out. Do this several times in a row and you can see how oil and other fluids can break down faster. It can also lead to carbon build up.
EDIT: Guess I should rephrase- You don't have to let it fully warm before driving it. What I meant is you should let it get to operating temperature and drive it that way for a few miles when you do drive it...(Not always short distances)

 

Hi 5thgenmaxima, yep, I let her warm up, and drive her for a few miles. I'm pretty much a weekend-driver, but the car does reach normal temps. when I take her out. Thanks for the info.

02SE 6Spd.
87 Supra Turbo
89 Supra Turbo

 

Its crap, don't waste your money. Clean your TB with intake cleaner. $5 and 15 min of your time. BTW, there is no reason to warm your car up before you drive. 30s after you start the car, start driving. 20 years of driving in a cold climate, and I have never had to have an "emissions service" for any of my vehicles, nor have I had an engine failure of any type.

 

Thanks for all of the feedback guys. Your time to post replies is truly appreciated. Happy new year to you all! Peace.

~Stingray

 

thanks Jaws!