Happy New Year to all!

This is how I spent first days in New Year. While attempting to troubleshoot my oxygen sensor problem by replacing the sensor (again) with a universal sensor (Walker Universal from oxygensensors.com, shipped for $60, easy installation) and verifying the wiring integrity, just as I was finished and started the car, here comes a whining noise from the drive belts. Long screw-driver listening device pointed to the front alternator bearing. So contacted deoncolins69 who had one and we made a deal (thanks ) but then it started to smoke with plastic burning smell which meant I needed to replace it ASAP. So called a local wrecker and found one there. While I was at it, since my starter was noisy during morning start ups, I figured it was on its last legs too and I would pick up one of them too at the wrecker and replace it at the same time along with alternator...

Well, the alternator installation was a major PITA. I used the write-up from Haynes manual and it was helpful to some degree. There were some deviations from the procedure which has caused me some grief so I will try to be more detailed. I took some pics but they are not very clear since I worked in poorly lighted garage and some bolts are just impossible to photograph due to their location on the engine. If you still need some feel free to contact me and I will try to make them or provide more details. I installed them both on flat surface without using a hoist or any floor jacks, lifts, etc.

Note that I installed them both on flat surface without using a hoist or any floor jacks, lifts, etc.

Use at your own risk, I am not responsible for any boo-boo's you make

You may want to buy new drive belt before alternator replacement and PCV valve before starter replacement…

Alternator (took me 3-4 hrs to do):
- Make sure your car is not hot!
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal
- For 2000/1 models (2002/3 skip this step) disconnect the air temp sensor wire that is in the air intake between scoop and air-box
- Disconnect the boost-sensor that is on the side of the scoop, remove the thin vacuum rubber hose from the bottom of it (simple slide off)
- Unscrew the two Phillips plastic screws that are holding air scoop in place, then pull out the scoop itself
- Disconnect the both radiator cooling fans and move the harness to the right hand side
- Remove the two 10mm screws from the top of the fan assembly
- Remove the overflow coolant hose that runs from the radiator cap to overflow canister
- Place a coolant collecting bucket under the top radiator hose area
- Loosen the clamp and disconnect the top radiator hose for as long as you need to take out the fan assembly out, and then put it back on. I did it quite fast and lost minimum amount of coolant.
- Using a 12mm wrench remove the horn that is located next to the coolant overflow (not necessary but you will have more room with it out of the way)
- Using a 14mm wrench loosen the nut on the side of the tensioner pulley
- Using a 14mm wrench or ratchet (CW) loosen the tensioner
- Remove the belt (while you are at it I would suggest its replacement if you have not done it in a while)
- Unplug the AC compressor connector (single wire on the side, black connector)
- Using a 14mm socket loosen the 4 bolts on the side of the AC compressor – DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY AC LINES
- Bolts will stay in the compressor so do not try to take them out all the way
- Let the compressor drop as low as possible towards the splash guard
- Disconnect the alternator connector using a flat screw-driver
- Remove the rubber sleeve from the back of the alternator, and using a 12mm socket remove the nut from the charging post, disconnect the terminal
- Using 12mm socket remove the short alternator mounting bolt (it is just behind the harness retaining mount above the AC compressor)
- Remove the harness holding bracket / alternator mount from the engine side using 12mm socket (not necessary but will make alternator removal easier)
- Stretch your arm in the back of the alternator, using a 14mm socket, loosen the long alternator bolt. Note that you may need to maneuver the compressor to get to it
- You will notice a square head nut on the front of the alternator near the tensioner, this is the nut that the long bolt bolts through and you may need to hold it while loosening the bolt so it does not spin. I used a long flat screw-driver for this purpose
- Pull out the long bolts, wiggle the alternator so it comes of the engine
- Alternator can be pulled out under the lower radiator hose, over the AC compressor, and between the radiator and engine on the front left side. Just follow the oil dip stick upwards. Make sure that the long bolt holes are facing the bottom as the space is very tight
- Assemble in reverse order
- This is a good opportunity to install a new drive belt
- One thing to keep an eye on during installation is square head nut. It is very close to the tensioner and when you put it on make sure that its locking lip is facing down and is as close to the alternator as possible. Make sure that the tensioner can move up and down freely once you put the long bolt through and before you assemble everything back. I learnt this the hard way as the lip pointed upwards the first time I assembled it and the tensioner was then locked in. Needless to say I had to repeat the disassembly in order to put it on properly and out of the way

Starter (took about 1 hr to do):
- Make sure your car is not hot!
- Disconnect the negative battery terminal
- For 2000/1 models (2002/3 skip this step) disconnect the air temp sensor wire that is in the air intake between scoop and air-box
- Disconnect the boost-sensor that is on the side of the scoop, remove the thin vacuum rubber hose from the bottom of it (simple slide off)
- Unscrew the two Phillips plastic screws that are holding air scoop in place, then pull out the scoop itself
- Remove the three vacuum hoses from the side of the air box, two have spring clamps on them
- Unclip the two big plastic oval retaining clips above the air box that hold the throttle cables and just move the cables out
- Using a 10mm socket, remove the 4 air box screws (two are on the strut tower, one on the fender, and one between the air box and battery)
- Disconnect the MAF harness and two plastic clips holding the harness to the top of the air box. Move it out of the way
- Using either 8mm socket or flat screw driver loosen the clamp holding the rubber hose to the throttle
- I used this opportunity to gently wipe clean the throttle and flap using a lint-free cloth
- Pull out the air box assembly with MAF and rubber hose
- This is also a good time to replace your PCV valve if you have not done so in a while as it is easily accessible once you take out the air box
- Remove the rubber sleeve from the back of the alternator, and using a 12mm wrench remove the nut from the power post, disconnect the terminal
- There is a heave gauge black wire leading off from the starter with a grey connector on it, about 4” in length, disconnect it
- Unclip the harness that is in the same area as well as the thick black harness that is in the back of the battery in front of the brake master cylinder (this is to help you get the starter out once you unbolt it)
- Using 14mm socket remove the bolt from the top of the starter (it is a shorter bolt)
- Using 17mm socket remove the bolt from the right hand side of the starter (it is about 6-7” long bolt)
- Pull out the starter. You will need to maneuver it out through the wires and harnesses
- Assemble in reverse order
- During assembly one thing to watch for is to make sure all the wires are out of the way when bolting in the starter. There is a sensor wire that runs through there that gets in the way often and may get caught during installation between engine and starter. Also make sure all vacuum hoses are plugged in properly


Have fun

 

OP might want to update and add that there is a hose that is secured to the bottom of the fan shroud. (at least there is on my 2001) This hose should be popped out BEFORE removing the upper radiator hose...I learned the hard way and lost a ton of coolant lol

 

Best write-up ever for Alternator replacement up with pics....

http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/500

 

I came across that yesterday and it proved to be helpful in figuring out how to position the alternator for removal...nonetheless, Igzy did a nice job, especially since you can easily just print the text and keep it close by.

 

admins gonna jump all over my as* for this noob-ish posting, but any advice on what to use for removal of the 4 mounting bolts on the compressor...? I shattered a 14mm socket trying to get them loose... also gave them some WD40 love and they won't budge.

 

Naw, the admins aren't that mean, I don't think.

Anyhow, the AC mount on the engine side is a cast plate. The bolts go through that - spray liquid wrench or another oil designed as a penetrating oil (WD stands for water-displacement, it's not really a penetrating oil) on the back of that plate. Let that soak in. Also, the base of the bolt head tends to bind to the aluminum of the compressor housing, put some there too.

Good luck!

Oh, this is a dupe (original work, but duplicate topic), at least for the alternator:
http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ernator-2.html

And there are pics there.

 

The AC bolts should be doable. Use PB blaster instead of the wd40. Use the right tools. Take your time. Using good sockets can help too. Not all sockets are created equal. I am not flaming your sockets. I could use a GOOD set, too. Like the ones that are warranted for life. Take it in and they will replace them. Like Craftsman.

You can do it! A lot of us have done it and the AC compressor bolts was not the hard one. Use an extension.