Got bad coils? I tested and only replaced 2. How to w/ Pics
10-08-2008, 01:48 PM
#121
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Birmingham Al
Posts: 21
Yea I would replace the spark plugs first as well. Just an opinion, I know they are expensive, but I would go ahead and replace all the coils at once. I repalced one and it ran good. Same problem again, replaced a coil ran good... You get the jist. Replace them all and be done with it. They are weeelll know to go bad
10-14-2008, 03:03 PM
#122
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2
Step 2 - Unplug coil one at a time
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
This test will only work if your engine is running really bad idle. If your SES/TCS/SLIP only come on when your engine is under load this test will not work, skip to step 3. My engine was running really rough even at idle, so I started to unplug the coils on at a time. Just squeeze the clip and pull, it will come off.
The first one I tried cylinder #2, when unplugged, made no difference at all in how the engine ran. SO I instantly knew that one was bad. If your coil is good you engine will bog down and almost stall, as you are basically removing a running cylinder. Do this one at a time until you find the one, that when removed, your engine does not seem to run any rougher.
I got the code P1320. Sometimes, my engine is sputtering at idle or driving slowly. Not all the time. I measured the resistance of all the coils including some new ones. But couldn't tell which is bad. Then, I tried to unplug each coil at a time. Still looking good. I unpluged 2 coils and felt a little bit rough. Now, I'm trying to plug 1 coil at a time unplugging 5 coils. By doing this, I believe I can pick up the coil which makes the problem. Do you agree with it?
10-30-2008, 04:58 PM
#123
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 70
Hey guys ... which one of these coils seems bad..I've got the p1320 check engine light .. the cars slightly rough in idle but you cant tell unless you really focus and pay attention
Well here are my readings not sure which ones coil 1 2 3 4 5 6
But ill begin with the the front of the car going left to right
+1, -2
Left: 1.52 Middle: 1.55 Right:1.41
Back of the car
Left: 1.33 Middle: 1.41 Right: 1.47
I think its the back left one... but id rather get some advice from you experts
Well here are my readings not sure which ones coil 1 2 3 4 5 6
But ill begin with the the front of the car going left to right
+1, -2
Left: 1.52 Middle: 1.55 Right:1.41
Back of the car
Left: 1.33 Middle: 1.41 Right: 1.47
I think its the back left one... but id rather get some advice from you experts
10-30-2008, 05:41 PM
#124
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 70
also if i try the pulling them out while the car runs .. they all pretty much make the same difference .... could it be my crankshaft position sensor (REF)... sometime when i start it .. it starts weird like theres noise (kusssshhhhhhh)
11-01-2008, 02:00 AM
#126
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 85
Thank You Guyz
I'm glad you people have been bumping this thread enough for me to come across it. Thanks to bigfatty and to all you guys for sharing your time and feedback.
Short story: I bought a used 2000 I30t with about 115,000 miles and I changed out my MAF and updated the ECM, replaced my fuel strainer/filter, dropped a K&N panel filter, cleaned throttle body, and thanks to you guys changed all 6 coils with NGK plugs.
COT DAYM, the car responds like an animal on CRACK!
God Bless!!!
Short story: I bought a used 2000 I30t with about 115,000 miles and I changed out my MAF and updated the ECM, replaced my fuel strainer/filter, dropped a K&N panel filter, cleaned throttle body, and thanks to you guys changed all 6 coils with NGK plugs.
COT DAYM, the car responds like an animal on CRACK!
God Bless!!!
12-01-2008, 07:45 PM
#127
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 7
P1320
Hi,
I'm dealing with this ignition coil problem right now. I already replaced one coil based on some infinite reads I was getting on the ohm-meter. The engine seems to be running pretty smooth now, but the service engine light is still on. Will this go away on it's own or will I have to reset it with a Scan tool? In MA it's illegal for Autozone to allow you to reset your codes with their scan tool, so they won't do it.
I'm dealing with this ignition coil problem right now. I already replaced one coil based on some infinite reads I was getting on the ohm-meter. The engine seems to be running pretty smooth now, but the service engine light is still on. Will this go away on it's own or will I have to reset it with a Scan tool? In MA it's illegal for Autozone to allow you to reset your codes with their scan tool, so they won't do it.
12-08-2008, 11:09 AM
#129
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 194
Hi,
I'm dealing with this ignition coil problem right now. I already replaced one coil based on some infinite reads I was getting on the ohm-meter. The engine seems to be running pretty smooth now, but the service engine light is still on. Will this go away on it's own or will I have to reset it with a Scan tool? In MA it's illegal for Autozone to allow you to reset your codes with their scan tool, so they won't do it.
I'm dealing with this ignition coil problem right now. I already replaced one coil based on some infinite reads I was getting on the ohm-meter. The engine seems to be running pretty smooth now, but the service engine light is still on. Will this go away on it's own or will I have to reset it with a Scan tool? In MA it's illegal for Autozone to allow you to reset your codes with their scan tool, so they won't do it.
12-08-2008, 11:13 AM
#130
Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 194
Yea I would replace the spark plugs first as well. Just an opinion, I know they are expensive, but I would go ahead and replace all the coils at once. I repalced one and it ran good. Same problem again, replaced a coil ran good... You get the jist. Replace them all and be done with it. They are weeelll know to go bad
Ditto. I had one go bad. I bought all 6 on ebay. I replaced the fronts because it was very easy to do and I was living in an apartment at the time. That fixed the problem... for about 14 months. Then I got the signal again, and replaced the rears. The original coils are crap. If one goes, you can bet that more will go over time. It is easier to just buy a set, do them all at once (with new plugs), and forget it.
12-13-2008, 05:58 PM
#131
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Carson, CA
Posts: 715
Adding to the discussion..
I just had one of my coils go out on me and I pulled codes P1320 and P0306 (Cylinder 6 Misfire), so I just replaced front coil #6 with a Duralast Ignition Coil (Part #C1267 for Front; #C1266 for Rear) that I purchased from AutoZone for $64.99/ea. (I hope I didn't pay too much for it). I also bought the Actron OBDII AutoScanner (CP9135) which I used to pull the code with. I recently had the car tuned up so I didn't bother trying to replace the plugs. Replacing Coil #6 took about 15 minutes from start to finish and it was very easy to do. The rear ones are more of a challenge but are still very doable with the right tools, so for those of you that are faced with this issue, I wouldn't sweat it too hard. After I did some searching through the threads here, I found all of the information that I needed and was able to take care of this issue myself. Hopefully, I will have a bit of a break before something else goes wrong, but my '00 GXE has been a solid performer for me thus far...
I'm going to take my scanner and check/erase the code because the SES light is back on again and see what happens after I drive it around for a bit. I think I may have to replace my fuel injectors because the car dies at startup unless I tap the gas pedal a couple of times. The price I got from AutoZone was $84.99/ea and they have to order them (not sure about the brand), so it's Chevron Premium w/Techron and Chevron FI cleaner until I can afford to get those injectors replaced...
I guess the old addage is true - once you pay it off and it's all yours, all the problems start happening...
Thank God for the .ORG - you guys save me time and time again. Whenever I get my '09, I'll remain loyal to the .ORG!!!
I'm going to take my scanner and check/erase the code because the SES light is back on again and see what happens after I drive it around for a bit. I think I may have to replace my fuel injectors because the car dies at startup unless I tap the gas pedal a couple of times. The price I got from AutoZone was $84.99/ea and they have to order them (not sure about the brand), so it's Chevron Premium w/Techron and Chevron FI cleaner until I can afford to get those injectors replaced...
I guess the old addage is true - once you pay it off and it's all yours, all the problems start happening...
Thank God for the .ORG - you guys save me time and time again. Whenever I get my '09, I'll remain loyal to the .ORG!!!
Last edited by Pit5Bull; 12-13-2008 at 06:11 PM.
12-19-2008, 05:01 PM
#132
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 11
Very nice writeup!
My Actron code checker had mentioned cylinder 6 (engine was shaking horribly), so I recently replaced coil #6. However, the intermittent shaking came back (not as strong), so I will just replace them all. The front were easy, but your writeup will definitely help me replace the ones in the back.
Thanks!
My Actron code checker had mentioned cylinder 6 (engine was shaking horribly), so I recently replaced coil #6. However, the intermittent shaking came back (not as strong), so I will just replace them all. The front were easy, but your writeup will definitely help me replace the ones in the back.
Thanks!
12-30-2008, 06:25 PM
#133
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Dec 2008
Posts: 1
WOW, I hope this information is what I need. I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima and have had trouble with it for a long time. It runs very rough. My husband got a OHM meter and it gives the code P1320 and it says it is a Knock sensor 2 circ (Short to Ground). Well, this is the first time he has used the meter so I guess he knows what he is doing. He is not a mechanic, but pretty good with cars. Also it had a P0300. Can you tell me where the sensors are located?
Thanks.
briarpatchkiddo
Thanks.
briarpatchkiddo
The rears are little more difficult to get to, but the are doable. Some people remove this bracket but I didn't have to, I just slipped the cables out of the bracket and I got the coils out. If you are worried about dropping the screws an easy way to avoid this is to put two thin strips of electrical tape on your socket like this. It will all the bolt on the socket and it wont fall out. This is extremely useful for putting the bolts back on.
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
When you are done you will have 3 fronts and 3 rears. I labeled the pin #s I used to test them in the pics.
Your red Red probe is positive and Black one is negative. Set your meter to 20k on the ohm setting and start testing and make sure you write your results down.
My result were this. I already knew I had one bad coil, the one was making my engine run rough. The second one would only fail under a load, so that was the culprit I was looking for. The coil I knew was bad, is labeled bad, the two new coils I had bought were labeled as new.
I was looking for a reading from a coil that was different than the two good ones. If you look #4 had an infinite resistance reading (i) for +1,-2 and +1,-3, no other coil had that so I found the other bad coil! Also the weird thing was that the coil I knew was bad before had almost the exact same reading as the good ones other than the +2,-3 test (6.82) which is higher than any other coil. I replaced the one I knew was bad and #4 and have not had any problems since.
Where to buy: There many places to get the coils, but the Nissan dealership is waaaay too much. DaveB on the boards can hook you up for about $55 each roughly but you have to wait for shipping. What I did is if you have an O'Reilly's in you area they sell the coils for $51.99, but you have to have them shipped and wait the week again. O'Reilly Auto Front Part #UF348, Rear Part #UF363. AutoZoneAlso carries thecoils, Front Part #C1267 Rear Part #C1266 and I could pick them up tomorrow but they were $69.99. I told auto zone they O’Reilly’s has them $51.99 and they went ahead and price matched them. Perfect, 2 coils $51.99 each and I get them tomorrow.
Conclusions
I was able to replace only the bad coils and did not have to replace all and pay extra money. These test are not 100% proof positive but if followed, will give you a pretty good shot at replacing only the one you have to. If any body out has a for sure bad coil or has a brand new, gray dot coil and would like to put an ohm meter on it, please do. I would like to have your results and will make a spreadsheet to compare the results to see if we could figure out a 100% positive test. Just send them PM or email to me.
I hope this makes all us 5th gen owner’s life a little easier
Fat
01-10-2009, 12:34 PM
#134
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 96
Additionally - when ordering coils, the firewall side is either identified as either rear or right-hand side, and the front is the left-hand side.
1 3 5 -> Rear/RH
2 4 6 -> Front/LH
1 3 5 -> Rear/RH
2 4 6 -> Front/LH
I got P1320 and P0301 today meaning Cyl #1 right? I got the same problem 1.5 yr ago and it was cyl #2. Now I am looking at some coils on "partsource" (Canada) they have the coils a lot cheaper $75, dealer $114. But the ones on partsource come left bank or right bank, so which one is the one for cyl #1??
Anyone has a good experience buying coils that are not nissan??
Thanks!
01-10-2009, 07:49 PM
#135
<< is it true??
I got P1320 and P0301 today meaning Cyl #1 right? I got the same problem 1.5 yr ago and it was cyl #2. Now I am looking at some coils on "partsource" (Canada) they have the coils a lot cheaper $75, dealer $114. But the ones on partsource come left bank or right bank, so which one is the one for cyl #1??
Anyone has a good experience buying coils that are not nissan??
Thanks!
I got P1320 and P0301 today meaning Cyl #1 right? I got the same problem 1.5 yr ago and it was cyl #2. Now I am looking at some coils on "partsource" (Canada) they have the coils a lot cheaper $75, dealer $114. But the ones on partsource come left bank or right bank, so which one is the one for cyl #1??
Anyone has a good experience buying coils that are not nissan??
Thanks!
I didn't see what year vehicle you had, but if you have a 3.5 and can afford to dish out the extra $$ you might want to replace all three in the rear...I'd also replace the plugs while you're there.
Also most manufacturers list cylinder #1 as the closest one to the drivebelt.. So cylinder 1 is the one in the back all the way to the left.
Last edited by 5thgenmaxima; 01-10-2009 at 07:55 PM.
01-11-2009, 10:19 AM
#136
I had P1320 too along with P0154 so I looked at the coils 2, 4, 6 as P0154 covers that bank, and found coil #6 resistance to be different than the 2 and 4.
My numbers were not the same as OP's but could tell which one was bad as the resistance between the terminals was infinite. The resistance showing on my coils was in 180 Ohm range when set to 20K on meter. Coils 2 and 4 had the same resistance across terminals whereas 6 had ~.
On another note, the bad coil was the "updated" coil with grey dot so that's not a guaranty they will last forever
My numbers were not the same as OP's but could tell which one was bad as the resistance between the terminals was infinite. The resistance showing on my coils was in 180 Ohm range when set to 20K on meter. Coils 2 and 4 had the same resistance across terminals whereas 6 had ~.
On another note, the bad coil was the "updated" coil with grey dot so that's not a guaranty they will last forever
01-11-2009, 12:26 PM
#137
Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 96
Thanks a lot 5thgenmaxima!
Mine is 2000 se w/75000 miles, I wasn't sure if right meant for 1,3,5, that is what I need, I can't change all of them, and for my experience last time I changed one was Sep 07, (# 2).
Anyone has tried a coil that is not Nissan?, Partsource has them $50 cheaper than dealer.
Inputs?
Mine is 2000 se w/75000 miles, I wasn't sure if right meant for 1,3,5, that is what I need, I can't change all of them, and for my experience last time I changed one was Sep 07, (# 2).
Anyone has tried a coil that is not Nissan?, Partsource has them $50 cheaper than dealer.
Inputs?
01-12-2009, 12:58 PM
#138
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
p1320
Im getting the p1320 code on my 2000 maxima, have already replaced the front 3 coils with OEM parts & the rear 3 with aftermarket. Still getting the check engine light come up after clearing the codes. Would anybody have any suggestions what else i can do?
01-12-2009, 06:14 PM
#139
If the coils are new indeed, then you can make sure you have 91+ octane fuel, change the plugs if you have not done so, then perhaps replace the ignition condenser...
01-15-2009, 05:01 PM
#141
Condenser is located on the wire harness in between the front bank of coils and injectors. It is likely wrapped with the insulation tape on it. You can't miss the bump on the wrapped harness. It costs about $7-8 at a dealership (bought one not long ago). Let me know if you need help locating it...
01-20-2009, 10:34 AM
#142
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
condenser
so i can pretty much call the dealer and get all six of them, if thats how many the car has, right? do you think it's an issue with the fact that the front bank are OEM & the rear bank are aftermarket? I will buy the condenser and try to change them this week. Thanks for all the help by the way
01-20-2009, 11:44 AM
#143
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Brandon, FL
Posts: 897
so i can pretty much call the dealer and get all six of them, if thats how many the car has, right? do you think it's an issue with the fact that the front bank are OEM & the rear bank are aftermarket? I will buy the condenser and try to change them this week. Thanks for all the help by the way
01-21-2009, 11:52 AM
#144
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 4
All 6 coils are brand new and so are the spark plugs. I do use 91+ octane in my car. I talked to the dealership and they have not heard of a ignition condenser, does it go by any other name? Also they told me that the p1320 might be caused by injectors
01-25-2009, 07:34 AM
#146
Last edited by igzy; 01-25-2009 at 07:48 AM.
01-25-2009, 07:42 AM
#147
From the FSM, possible causes of P1320:
1) Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
2) Power transistor unit built into ignition coil, i.e. ignition coil
3) Condenser (see pic above)
4) Crankshaft position sensor
5) Crankshaft position sensor circuit
1) Harness or connectors (The ignition primary circuit is open or shorted.)
2) Power transistor unit built into ignition coil, i.e. ignition coil
3) Condenser (see pic above)
4) Crankshaft position sensor
5) Crankshaft position sensor circuit
Last edited by igzy; 01-25-2009 at 07:49 AM.
01-26-2009, 09:23 PM
#148
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 2
Bigfatty or anyone else who can please help,
I have a 2000 Maxima with 59K miles and got the dreaded p1320 code. I did the Ohm test are here are my results. I can't figure out which coil, if any, are bad. Can someone please let me know what they think?
Thanks!!!
COIL 1
+1-2=1.45
+1-3=6.72
-1+2=1.45
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.16
COIL 2
+1-2=1.52
+1-3=6.78
-1+2=1.53
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.19
COIL 3
+1-2=1.55
+1-3=6.75
-1+2=1.56
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.17
COIL 4
+1-2=1.45
+1-3=6.74
-1+2=1.46
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.19
COIL 5
+1-2=1.47
+1-3=6.61
-1+2=1.53
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.05
COIL 6
+1-2=1.47
+1-3=6.70
-1+2=1.47
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.15
Thanks in advance!
I have a 2000 Maxima with 59K miles and got the dreaded p1320 code. I did the Ohm test are here are my results. I can't figure out which coil, if any, are bad. Can someone please let me know what they think?
Thanks!!!
COIL 1
+1-2=1.45
+1-3=6.72
-1+2=1.45
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.16
COIL 2
+1-2=1.52
+1-3=6.78
-1+2=1.53
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.19
COIL 3
+1-2=1.55
+1-3=6.75
-1+2=1.56
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.17
COIL 4
+1-2=1.45
+1-3=6.74
-1+2=1.46
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.19
COIL 5
+1-2=1.47
+1-3=6.61
-1+2=1.53
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.05
COIL 6
+1-2=1.47
+1-3=6.70
-1+2=1.47
-1+3=I
-2+3=I
+2-3=6.15
Thanks in advance!
01-30-2009, 03:32 PM
#149
On the pedobear bandwagon
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 480
I am having issues too. I'm getting the Ignition coil system code, and my car will sometimes start up and run rough. When it does this... it is rough for about 10 seconds, then start running normal. Also, I have CEL, Slip, and TCS lights constantly. Any ideas?
02-04-2009, 10:31 PM
#150
do my readings seem correct? of course i have the p1320, and a p1320 pending? rough idle at stops some times and some times seems to run perfect. any ideas? I dont see anyone else with infinite readings in the same area... thanks!
02-05-2009, 09:50 AM
#151
I tested my coils on a 2002
had only readings on +1-2 and -1+2 on all 6 coils numbers ranged from 1.40-1.42 ohms. i dont have any misfires, just checking the voltage. I know that others have had only readings in +1-2 and -1+2 also
02-08-2009, 02:24 PM
#152
Wow, they are such loosers. Figure they would at least know what parts are on the car. Anyway, I don't have the receipt from the dealership to get the part number (I'll try to find it in my garage). Here is the diagram where the part is located how to test it with a multimeter: resistance across terminals 1-2 should be > 1 MOhm at 77F (25C) and:
02-09-2009, 04:28 PM
#153
Set the multimeter to resistance (Ohms) and then put red end of the probe on one terminal and black end on the other, the meter should read resistance of more than 1 MOhm (1,000,000 Ohms).
Then set the meter to Volts (V), check the connector going to the condenser with ignition on (not starting the car): place the black probe on the battery (-) terminal and put the red probe on the connector's larger terminal, you should read ~12V...
Then set the meter to Volts (V), check the connector going to the condenser with ignition on (not starting the car): place the black probe on the battery (-) terminal and put the red probe on the connector's larger terminal, you should read ~12V...
03-06-2009, 06:39 PM
#154
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 18
Hey guys I was wondering if I could get a few opinions, my wifes car got the dreaded p1320 about two years ago, and the obviously ran really rough. I did a little research on here and bought new coils from Rock Auto. The car ran much better but the SES light never went off. I put it off cause the car was running good. I have emissions coming up and when I pull the code it's still p1320. I just tested the coils and here are my results
I looks like #4 is bad
I also tested my old ones, hoping I could use one, but the results are all over the place
I'm thinking about trying #5 since its the closest to the "good" ones.
I also noticed that my coils from rock auto (aftermarket) have readings for -1,+3 and -2,+3 unlike the oem's and everyone else's results.
I looks like #4 is bad
I also tested my old ones, hoping I could use one, but the results are all over the place
I'm thinking about trying #5 since its the closest to the "good" ones.
I also noticed that my coils from rock auto (aftermarket) have readings for -1,+3 and -2,+3 unlike the oem's and everyone else's results.
Last edited by Bobalouy; 03-06-2009 at 06:42 PM.
03-15-2009, 01:25 PM
#156
first off I gotta say it's a great write up. Keep it up.
Now I have a question for the pros: when testing, anytime Pin #3 is tested, multimeter reads infinite (it's actually "1", which I assume to be infinite in this case). This is happening with 6 original coils and 3 new ones that I have tested so far. Is it something in the testing procedure that I may be doing wrong (following the write up to the letter)? Could it just be a bad battery in the multimeter? Any other possible causes?
Now I have a question for the pros: when testing, anytime Pin #3 is tested, multimeter reads infinite (it's actually "1", which I assume to be infinite in this case). This is happening with 6 original coils and 3 new ones that I have tested so far. Is it something in the testing procedure that I may be doing wrong (following the write up to the letter)? Could it just be a bad battery in the multimeter? Any other possible causes?
03-18-2009, 09:24 AM
#157
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Fall River, MA
Posts: 3
I've had the same issue with my 2000 gle recently. i've had the SES, SLIP, and TCS light on and after it was checked it came up as a misfire on cyl 3. I've also been gettin bad gas mileage avg. out at about 15-16 mpg (16.5 at best city). Does any one know if this could be an effect from the possble ignition coil problem?
answers are appreciated
answers are appreciated
03-18-2009, 11:01 AM
#158
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,898
I've had the same issue with my 2000 gle recently. i've had the SES, SLIP, and TCS light on and after it was checked it came up as a misfire on cyl 3. I've also been gettin bad gas mileage avg. out at about 15-16 mpg (16.5 at best city). Does any one know if this could be an effect from the possble ignition coil problem?
answers are appreciated
answers are appreciated
03-29-2009, 11:45 AM
#159
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 2
Replaced with STI Packs
Thanks for the great walkthrough. 6 months ago, I bought a grey dot coil and replaced a bad coil. Then replaced the other 5 with STI brand coils. However, the car doesn't run smoothly and gives 2 P1320 codes. After using this method, I got weird results. Coil pack #5 is duralast, grey dot. The rest are STI.
#1,2,3,4 & 6 give me the same results, with little variance.
.99
6.41
.99
6.45
5.45
5.41
The grey dot one gives numbers much closer to expected results, but the -1,+2 and +2,-3 are off.
1.63
4.99
1.63
----
----
4.54
What are your thoughts? should i replace all 6 with new duralast? do I buy one more STI so they're all consistent? Do I only replace the 5 STI's?
#1,2,3,4 & 6 give me the same results, with little variance.
.99
6.41
.99
6.45
5.45
5.41
The grey dot one gives numbers much closer to expected results, but the -1,+2 and +2,-3 are off.
1.63
4.99
1.63
----
----
4.54
What are your thoughts? should i replace all 6 with new duralast? do I buy one more STI so they're all consistent? Do I only replace the 5 STI's?
03-30-2009, 10:55 AM
#160