Okay tonight at around 8:30pm me and friend take off in my car to test my car's 0-60 time. Anyways I make 5 different passes trying to get accurate readings. My best time was 9.01 sec. this was done by manually shifting with overdrive off. Now this was done with him in the car and he timed me with a stopwatch. I would think the car could run faster than that but for one thing he was in the car which added about 160lbs, also we didn't use a g-tech. Now I no the car is fast because I dust cars all day and no I'm not talking about Geo Metro's, were talking about Pontiac Grandprix GT's and F-150 Triton V-8 and so on. So what do you think caused the time to be so slow?

 

The auto is just plain slow. My ancient Protege is as fast as my wife's Maxima.

The fastest auto time I have seen recorded by a magazine is 8.0 seconds.

Do I hear a few hp mods calling me?...

 

magazine times are BS. people who use G-Tech get around mid 7s.. and our auto is faster then the competition.. I.E. accord, camry

 

It's true we are faster than the competition. But this isn't a fast car. I love the way it cruises though.
I just find it amusing that my 10 year old Protege is as fast as my Maxima.

 

Consumer Reports tested a 2000 Maxima GXE automagic in the May 00 issue and they got 0-60 in 7.8s, and they don't even brake torque or power shift or anything like that.

Accord V6's do about high-7's to 60mph, but you guys can still beat us if you powershift at redline instead of letting the automagic do it's crappy 6000rpm shifts, well short of redline.

BTW, stopwatch 0-60 times aren't what I would call accurate at all. The Consumer Report tests, and most mag tests for that matter, are all done via 5th wheel computer tests to ensure accuracy. G-Tech's are nice, but not always accurate, but definitely more consistent than stopwatches too.

 

My best 0-60 time in my auto with all of my mods is a 7.90!!! This was calculated from my 1/4 mile timeslips (ie real data, not a stopwatch or G-tech). You can check out my post on the thread below if you'd like to see how calculate your own 0-60's from your timeslips.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=41788

 

who's driving the max? maybe u can try to switch around 'casue everybody has different driving style.

 

In my 96 SE Auto, using a Gtech, I got a best 0-60 time of 7.01. Only mods I had on were Stillen Intake, FSTB, springs and shocks. Got several times in the 7.1 - 7.2 range.

 

If you havent been doing this press on the brake and rev the engine before taking off. This will definately give you better time. Stop using a stop watch. Get a GTech performance meter ($139.95 at http://www.gtechpro.com). It is more accurate.

 

I hear ya! I've been using the highly inaccurate stopwatch method for the past few weeks and the best time I got was an 8.77 seconds (just me and a 1/4 tank of gas). Usually I clock myself in the mid 9 second range. I'm taking my car in to Nissan for an oil change today and plan to ask them to check the power themselves (I'm sure they'll say it's fine). Other than these times and my close proximity to a 91 integra LS in a series of highway races I have no reason to be dissatisfied with my car's performance, but these 2 points got me to thinking something is wrong with the engine. Potential reasons for my slowness include: inferior gasoline, non-broken-in engine (3800km), faulty ignition coils, 3440 feet elevation, etc. We'll see what the techs at Nissan say later, and, if necessary, I'll try to get it dyno'd some time.

Question: What exactly is brake-torquing (I think I know but I want to make sure)? How is it done and how hard is it on the engine?

 

With a G-Tech Pro I was getting mid 7's on average. My lowest was a 7 flat. This matches my 1/4 ET's of 15.4-15.7.

 

The lowest I've gotten is 7.44 seconds back when I was stock with a little bit of brake torquing. Now, I'm stuck in the 7.6 range. Brake torquing in a nutshell is holding the brake, hitting the gas, and then letting go after the RPMS hit about 2000. It supposedly loads the torque converter.

 

This would definitely have something to do with it, especially on naturally aspirated engines. Engines with forced induction are much less affected by altitude changes, but the air is definitely a good bit thinner at 3440 feet.

There's some conversion you can do for 1/4 mile runs and altitude to convert them all to "standard conditions" at sea level and certain temperatures. Maybe somebody here knows about that and some web page. NHRA.com ???

 

The thing I like the best is how fast it goes from around 50 and up, I can pass all the suckas going slow in the left lane really quickly...

 

Okay, here are the sites you need to do any conversion you want to.

This is the main site:

http://www.bgsoflex.com/etmphcorr.html

Try entering all of your information here. If you don't know the barometric pressure you'll need to go to the next two sites. The first one will calculate the nominal atm pressure (in psi) when you input your altitude and hit "calculate". The second site you'll need to convert from psi to inHg.

http://members.home.net/rabeveridge/html/about_hc2.html

http://probrewer.com/tools/convert_pressure.html

Now just input your inHg pressure number into the first site and voila... you have your corrected numbers. Enjoy!

 

Phil, It would be nice to test these calculations vs. my G-tech Pro. Next time we meet I'll bring it.

 

I managed a G-Tech 0-60 reading of 6.59s in my 97SE Auto. I also had my HEAVY A$$ 18" Katana rims on. Then again, I also have Don's VB & a ProTorque TC..hehe =) I think every auto should come from the factory with these two items. It helps ALOT, especially the TC.

 

Hey Alex, could you bring the manual for your G-Tech when we meet on Sunday for the exhaust??? I would like to take a look at it. We still meeting at the Chevron at 2pm???

 

Once you test the GTech against Phil please post your results on a new thread.

Thanks

 

At first I thought you guys who say you AE's are slow were full of S*i*, but I did not know where you lived and then I thought ELEVATION! This is probably the culprit but this still would not explain the loss to a PROTEGE? WTF? I am at 680 feet above sea level in Cleveland and my AE flies. I am going to the track and also to the dyno sometime this summer and will put the results on my site. You probably better take you vehicle back to the dealer bad service or not.

 

See my thread entitled "My maxima is normal after all...". It may be safe to assume that all the maximas in Calgary are running 9 second 0-60's. Maybe other cars are less affected by the altitude than a maxima is. I don't really know. As long as my max is not abnormal I'm okay with being a bit slower than I had hoped. Of course, just because the Nissan tech says it's normal doesn't mean it really is. But, then, how do you explain the same performance in a new AE that I tested today? It could be a fluke (i.e. both bad maximas) but that seems unlikely.

 

I can't argue with that, good point chop!