Clunking sound in front end on bumpy roads
Clunking sound in front end on bumpy roads
I did search.
The front end of my Y2K I30 was clunking. It sounded like I was driving a Ford or something. I checked all of the suspension parts--all tight. I decided that it was a motor mount. I changed crossmember the mounts. The back one was toasted. This helped the problem alot. But it is still clunking on very rough roads. It feels like it is still coming thru the cross member. It is very annoying. Is it the cross member bushings? Is there a fix?
This is BS!. This is an Infinity...not a Taurus. If I can't find this problem, it's going in the Trader. I have owned 4 maximas mutigenerational. None has ever given any problems except this 5th gen. This car is very nice, but it is turning into a pain.
Thanks!
The front end of my Y2K I30 was clunking. It sounded like I was driving a Ford or something. I checked all of the suspension parts--all tight. I decided that it was a motor mount. I changed crossmember the mounts. The back one was toasted. This helped the problem alot. But it is still clunking on very rough roads. It feels like it is still coming thru the cross member. It is very annoying. Is it the cross member bushings? Is there a fix?
This is BS!. This is an Infinity...not a Taurus. If I can't find this problem, it's going in the Trader. I have owned 4 maximas mutigenerational. None has ever given any problems except this 5th gen. This car is very nice, but it is turning into a pain.
Thanks!
Originally Posted by 00Max00
I have the same problem! It's very annoying every single time there's uneven on the road. Where is the sway bar end links anyway? If anyone could provide a diagram or pic that would be great!
Originally Posted by lex3015
or what have people done to replace? i don't know much about endlinks and options to replace
The labor to replace can be a lot. In my case, a wrench, wrench with breaker bar, and other various shop tools and cursing weren't enough; the dealership had to cut mine off... with a cutting torch. I would say they spent the better part of 2 hours with 2 mechanics working on it to eventually get them off.
I've read of folks replacing them themselves and it shouldn't be that difficult given that its really not a lot of actual know-how involved in removing a couple of bolts and replacing a few pieces and then re-doing what you undid, but if you are unfortunate enough to have a case like mine, you may have to get a shop to do it.
I've not read about urethane replacements but that doesn't mean they don't exist.
Edit:
Before I forget, let me say this: If everything is tight, it doesn't mean nothing is wrong. Everything was tightened to spec (and then beyond) on my car before the right mechanic saw it and knew what the problem was... and this was after I got a new strut and a complete once over on every bolt, nut, washer, and pin connected anywhere near the suspension. I've given this advice to most everyone who even mentions a "bump," "clunk," or otherwise "noise from the passenger side front when going over bumps" and have heard of more than one person curing their problem from the end link fix.
Hope this helps and good luck!
I just went to the parking lot and looked at my links. They "look" OK. Bushings are still there. Can they still have slack in them?
everythingnissan.com has these links for $28
Have you ever heard of any problems with the cross member bumping? It's mounted with 4 shoulder bolts and some grommets. It doesn't seem very solid.
everythingnissan.com has these links for $28
Have you ever heard of any problems with the cross member bumping? It's mounted with 4 shoulder bolts and some grommets. It doesn't seem very solid.
I've not heard about a crossmember coming loose but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen every day. Does it sound like a dull thud inside the cabin on the passenger side? Or is it eminating from another locale (sounds more from the center of the car)? It would seem the crossmember would bang more towards center than would the end links.
Just remembered to answer another question from above. The sway bar end links are at the, get this, end of the sway bar!
Just take a peak under the front of the car and you should see the sway bar there (a piece of tubular steel that's bent into a "u" with flattened arms on either side. Where they connect to the chassis is where we are discussing.
I'm sorry I don't have a diagram. Below are 2 sway bars and 2 sets of links. The links go at the ends.

Just remembered to answer another question from above. The sway bar end links are at the, get this, end of the sway bar!
Just take a peak under the front of the car and you should see the sway bar there (a piece of tubular steel that's bent into a "u" with flattened arms on either side. Where they connect to the chassis is where we are discussing.
I'm sorry I don't have a diagram. Below are 2 sway bars and 2 sets of links. The links go at the ends.
The sound is very similar to when the motor was bouncing off the cross member when the mount was bad, just not as intense. It is a deep "thud" with a "clunk" overtone. It feels like its under the floor board more on the passenger side. It is felt mostly on uneven pavement and pot holes. Not at all on the smooth hiway.
Maybe I should just check the links and the strut mounts carefully and check back in.
Thanks!
Maybe I should just check the links and the strut mounts carefully and check back in.
Thanks!
From that description, I would guess that it's probably the end links. Mine was exactly like that before getting them replaced. Thud thud thud on bumpy roads, smooooth sailing on good roads. You probably won't be able to tell just by looking at the links. Try removing one or both of them and taking it for a drive. I drove mine for a day or two with them off since they were not in stock and just reminded myself to not attempt anything stupid. You should be ok... just pray you can get them off yourself.
You may be able to measure them and substitute another car's end links. I know they are made for several other cars on the road and most of them are within an inch or less of being exactly the same with the only difference being the length between the bushings. With that said, another car's part may have to be modified a tad to make it work but it shouldn't be a problem if you have a grinder and some patience. It isn't like this is an engine part that must be within one hundred thousandths or less to work properly. Other than that, I don't know. Good luck!
I did the swaybar links, bushings and my problem ended up being the strut. It wasn't leaking or anything, but the seal in the inside was causing the piston to bang everytime I hit a bump in the road. read my posts on this link.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=295640
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=295640
I finally found the clunk after all this time. It was the passenger side top motor mount!
I checked everything mentioned in this thread with no luck.
The clunking got worse and worse until I was able to isolate it. It was very tough to find because the clunk was caused by bumpy roads. I was focused on the suspension.
I was just getting ready to trade it in. Now I will keep.
I checked everything mentioned in this thread with no luck.
The clunking got worse and worse until I was able to isolate it. It was very tough to find because the clunk was caused by bumpy roads. I was focused on the suspension.
I was just getting ready to trade it in. Now I will keep.
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