eng92

iTrader: (3)

I have had mine installed for about 2 weeks now and the engine will not start if I have the ignition wired in. The wiring is correct as per the installation manual (from Mohd's site).

I have the VQ35DE engine type selected and it displays the correct rpm using the crank and cam signals for input.

I have tried every firmware release from 1.05 through 1.14 with no change.
All jumpers are set to the factory installed positions.

I am waiting on a response back from Sharif at Forged Internals where I bought the unit from.

Any suggestions are welcome.

vsamoylov

hmm interesting, did u get a response back from sharif?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Try selecting the Ignition Signal as the input type and leaving the crank/cam disconnected.

Also, 5.5 gens might be more sensitive to the "open coil" issue and need the resistors to keep the ECU happy.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

BTW, check for DandyMax and my threads in the FI forum for more help.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Tried that already


I will need to get it started first before i find out if that will be an issue or not.

been subscribed since day 1

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Did you check what the Altima people have done? I believe a few of them are running it.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

I read Velicos' thread over at Nissanclub. As far as I can tell, his fired right up straight out of the box. He has an 04 Altima. I know the 02/03 Altimas share similar (if not the same) ecu connectors and pinout as the 02/03 max. Not sure about the 04+ Alti though.

I remember reading Sharif's EU thread over at my350Z and there were a few posts that mentioned that the main unit would get warm after being turned on for a while.
My unit always remains cool to the touch. Mind you I do not have any ignition signals running through it.

I suppose I could try running a vtc signal through one of the ignition inputs and see if I can measure anything on the output (or get some indication on the timing datalog)

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Well Sharif's first response was the same as your's IceY2K1. Pull the cam signal wire. I had already tried that with no change.

Instead of running the vtc signal through the ignition circuit, I am just going to run one coil through the EU ignition circuit. Sure the engine will misfire, but for short periods at low rpm, that is not a problem. Atleast then I can compare the EU timing datalog against the one from my Auterra.

It will atleast tell me that the EU is reading the ignition inputs. If that checks out, then I may have to borrow/rent/buy a scope to check the outputs.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Later today I will check the sensors and ecu's for the 04 altima and 5.5 gen max... I will let you know if they are the same(crank sensors, cam sensors, ect..)

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Dave so sorry not to respond to your PM sooner, have just been so busy and tons of PM's piling up in my inbox.

I was going to suggest several of the things already posted in this thread so I won't reiterate all of them but I do agree that you should not use the CAM signal. The EU only needs the crank signal on the VQ35. And if you are reading rpms correctly using the crank then you know the pick up on the signal is correct.

But it won't fire up using either ign coils or tach as rpm source as long as the ignition is connected?

What is the active LED doing on the front of the unit? Any warning codes popping up in the EU software?

Are you using the analog input for anything?

If you are 100% certain the wiring is good then you may just have a defective unit. I have heard of a few cases already with the EU having defective ignition components. You might end up having to get a new one.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

I'm not sure there's any point in doing that... he's already said that the rpm tracks correctly using the crank input. If not he'd get no rpm reading, or something really wacky like I did when I tried the Toyota engines. And it sounds like as long as he leaves the ignition unconnected it runs fine.

Even without the crank input, he should be able to run fine off the ignition or tach rpm sources. At this point I think it's a bad EU unit unless he's got a wiring boo boo (unlikely as I'm sure he knows what he's doing but even the best of us can make silly mistakes once and a while).

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the replies guys.

Today I tried running the ignition coils through the EU one at a time to see if I would get any timing measurement in the data log. Ignition timing remained at 0 when it typically should read 14-15 at idle. It was interesting that each time I started the car, I would get an error saying that all the ignition input channels were missing instead of 5 messages for the channels that were not connected.

I then tried comparing the input and output voltages for the one coil I had connected through the EU. I don't have a scope, so I just put my meter on AC volts to see what kind of reading I would get. The output was only about a third of what the input was.
Just for the hell of it, I tried moving jumper JP8 to the 12V output position to see if it would make a difference. The output voltage went up a little but it was still well below the measured input. The one cylinder misfire was still obviously there.
I then looked down at the main EU unit and the active led was flashing red rapidly. I thought that was odd. I opened the unit back up and moved JP8 back to the 5V position. I was just closing the unit back up when something strange caught my eye.
.
.
.
Well I was pretty sure I had a defective unit after the first couple of failed starting attempts.

Now there is no doubt in my mind.





Holy cold solder joints. The chip literally fell off the board.

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

Holy Batmans. Warranty outa give you a new one soon.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

WOw. Well that's good news (in that you found the problem and it's easily rectifiable). FIgured you might have a defective unit.

hightuner

iTrader: (1)

Holy **** , hope u get it replace soon

did you get it from Mohd's site ?

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Still waiting on the replacement unit to arrive.

I bought it from Sharif at ForgedInternals.com.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

-UPDATE-
The replacement unit arrived today. Plugged it in, loaded the firmware (1.14) and the engine started right up like normal. RPM and ignition timing datalog is spot on with my Auterra scanner.

I have both crank and cam inputs connected and I am using the crank input for the rpm signal with no problems.

The only issue I have so far, which I had with the original unit as well, is the closed loop AFR is considerably richer when the injectors are running through the EU even with no maps turned on. Typicall AFR is 14.5-14.9 at idle. With the injectors running through the EU, it is 12-13.

I will have to get this sorted out before I try any WOT AFR tuning.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Awesome....make sure you have JP18 open.

Is the Injector input duration/DC = output duration/DC in the log?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Also, some say you need to have the Airflow Adjustment map selected even if you're not using it....not 100% sure though.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Great news eng92. Must have been frustrating. Question. How did you hook up the wires? Splice? Or did you manage to get a plug and play harness. From what I'm reading, I have a Type I G35 03 sedan that has more similarities with an 03 maxima than a G35. Thanks

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Looks like a couple others on the EU yahoo group have had this happen also...one straight out of the box, never installed.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/E-manage_Ultimate/

eng92

iTrader: (3)

I used three 25 pin d-connectors which I connected directly into my factory harness. One for fuel, one for ignition and one for power and all the sensor inputs,etc. The three mating connectors were soldered to the EU harness. I then made up three jumper connectors so I could unplug the EU at any time if required.

It is a handy setup for troubleshooting and I have done a lot of that. For example, right now I have the ignition running through the EU but the injectors are not.

I could have made up a full patch harness but it would not have the flexibility that I currently have. IMHO patch harnesses are good for leased vehicles or if you need to return the car to stock for saleability. I consider myself an end user when it comes to vehicles. Also my car's electrical system is a Frankenstein of about 8 different vehicles from 3 different years so "butchering" the factory harness to install the EU is just more of the same.

eng92

iTrader: (3)

Sharif shot me an email saying that they had a similar issue with a 3.5 Altima.
They ended up pulling some fuel out at idle using the Airflow Adjustment map and everything was fine.

I will look more into this EU fuel issue next weekend. I got my Z33 IM back from the welder yesterday so I want to get that installed first.