2000 Maxima: Lots of issues-why do we bother?(long)
04-24-2006, 11:46 AM
#41
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 10
I personnally agree with the fact that cars should be built in Japan. I don't mind paying a few extra thousands for no problems. My dad had an experience with toyota that really suprised me. He bought a 91 camry and everthing worked fine, he pushed it to near 350 000 kms until he had a crash. He then change for a 95 which as built in the states and not japan. He came up with numerous problems including rackand pinion( the seal wore out real quick, odd huh?) anyways.
Vertex
Vertex
04-24-2006, 04:52 PM
#42
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 8
There are quite a few replies here, all of them good. Everyone's opinion is valuable, and I hope that mine may also be considered worth at least 2 cents.
Since 1980 I've owned a Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Toyota 4WD SR5, 1993 Maxima, 2001 Maxima and a 2004 Corvette Z06.
The 2001 Maxima has BY FAR given me the most issues, all of which were captured in the original post. No, it has never broken down and left me stranded, but the cumulative annoyance and $$$ have driven me (no pun intended) away from Nissan and after I sell my 2001 Anniversary Edition I'll be moving on to another make and model. My wife and I have owned 5 Toyotas and the reliability is second to none. I will likely move to a Lexus IS350 and keep my fingers crossed.
Since 1980 I've owned a Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Toyota 4WD SR5, 1993 Maxima, 2001 Maxima and a 2004 Corvette Z06.
The 2001 Maxima has BY FAR given me the most issues, all of which were captured in the original post. No, it has never broken down and left me stranded, but the cumulative annoyance and $$$ have driven me (no pun intended) away from Nissan and after I sell my 2001 Anniversary Edition I'll be moving on to another make and model. My wife and I have owned 5 Toyotas and the reliability is second to none. I will likely move to a Lexus IS350 and keep my fingers crossed.
04-24-2006, 05:16 PM
#43
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 701
In my honest opinion, I believe that todays automobile industry has learned that their new automobiles will probobly be driven for the next 10 years. In order for them to keep making profits, they need to create parts that would last only so long. I believe it was the Chevy Nova, I am not 100% sure, but it was an American car that would never break. What fun is it then? Automobile parts are the 2nd largest way an automobile company will make their large profits.
In my honest opinion, the coils and MAF and O2 sensors could be built to last forever, but then it would not produce a profit. It sux that we live in an age where business is more important than anything else.
Ohh and also, it would be wonderful if the parts would be cheap, but hell no, the MAF or anything that comes out of the dealer has to cost an arm and a leg
In my honest opinion, the coils and MAF and O2 sensors could be built to last forever, but then it would not produce a profit. It sux that we live in an age where business is more important than anything else.
Ohh and also, it would be wonderful if the parts would be cheap, but hell no, the MAF or anything that comes out of the dealer has to cost an arm and a leg
04-24-2006, 05:51 PM
#44
I sorta lack the ambition to argue my point in this thread that will ultimately make 50 pages and have absolutely no effect on anyones obviously biased opinions. I will defend my previous post that a car being "Japanese" automatically makes it better built. Sure, it's been seen that once a Japanese automaker starts assembling in the U.S. that they may seem less dependable.
1.) Of course when Hyundai came out it was terrible. Ultimately this has to do with the Corporations standard, and obviously when a new production plant first opens it must weed out the bugs, it will have problems in the beginning. That being said U.S. plants don't have lower guidelines, this is set by corporate, end of story.
2.) A few posts earlier I saw that 190K is great on their vq. Yea, whatever American cars go 190K all the time. Like I said my Denali had 180 on it when I sold it and actually drove smoother than it did when new because of the Monroe struts that where 80K miles old.
3.) Biased opinions suck. Look at the facts. The link below is the amount of cars returned to the dealer for work per 100 sold. 3 of the most 5 reliable are Domestic. Two GM and one Ford. Everyone knows Lexus is the most reliable, and will probably continue to be the most reliable for a long time. They could obviously build Toyota's just as good, but they want return customers, not everyone to drive them forever.
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/01/29/j...ability-study/
It's obvious that American cars have bad models. Foreign manufacturers also have bad models. (The worse ones probably don't get exported here, further biasing your opinions.)
All in all saying "I'm proud my car is built in Japan" is ridiculous. It doesn't matter where it's built, as long as the production plants are meeting standard which won't happen the first few years the plant opens..
Bottom line is weather you buy a foreign or domestic car, you're going to have problems. If I was buying a relatively new car, (6 years old or less) I wouldn't use the country of origin as a deciding factor, period.... If I was buying an older car for say my son (8 to 10 years old) I would buy a domestic, it's going to break just like the foreign car, however parts are typically going to be cheaper than they would for foreign cars.
We'll use our car and the same displacement American car as examples.
Alternator
Nissan 3.0 $220.99 110 amp
Taurus 3.0 $165.99 130 amp
Lumina 3.1 $120.99 102 amp
Radiator
Nissan 3.0 $$379.99 SPI
Taurus 3.0 $$196.99 SPI
Lumina 3.1 $192.99 SPI
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
Like I said you can discuss "Foreign VS. Domestic" all day, but ultimately the bottom line isn't where it's built. If you're looking for dependability you need to look further than "Country of Origin"
1.) Of course when Hyundai came out it was terrible. Ultimately this has to do with the Corporations standard, and obviously when a new production plant first opens it must weed out the bugs, it will have problems in the beginning. That being said U.S. plants don't have lower guidelines, this is set by corporate, end of story.
2.) A few posts earlier I saw that 190K is great on their vq. Yea, whatever American cars go 190K all the time. Like I said my Denali had 180 on it when I sold it and actually drove smoother than it did when new because of the Monroe struts that where 80K miles old.
3.) Biased opinions suck. Look at the facts. The link below is the amount of cars returned to the dealer for work per 100 sold. 3 of the most 5 reliable are Domestic. Two GM and one Ford. Everyone knows Lexus is the most reliable, and will probably continue to be the most reliable for a long time. They could obviously build Toyota's just as good, but they want return customers, not everyone to drive them forever.
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/01/29/j...ability-study/
It's obvious that American cars have bad models. Foreign manufacturers also have bad models. (The worse ones probably don't get exported here, further biasing your opinions.)
All in all saying "I'm proud my car is built in Japan" is ridiculous. It doesn't matter where it's built, as long as the production plants are meeting standard which won't happen the first few years the plant opens..
Bottom line is weather you buy a foreign or domestic car, you're going to have problems. If I was buying a relatively new car, (6 years old or less) I wouldn't use the country of origin as a deciding factor, period.... If I was buying an older car for say my son (8 to 10 years old) I would buy a domestic, it's going to break just like the foreign car, however parts are typically going to be cheaper than they would for foreign cars.
We'll use our car and the same displacement American car as examples.
Alternator
Nissan 3.0 $220.99 110 amp
Taurus 3.0 $165.99 130 amp
Lumina 3.1 $120.99 102 amp
Radiator
Nissan 3.0 $$379.99 SPI
Taurus 3.0 $$196.99 SPI
Lumina 3.1 $192.99 SPI
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
Like I said you can discuss "Foreign VS. Domestic" all day, but ultimately the bottom line isn't where it's built. If you're looking for dependability you need to look further than "Country of Origin"
04-24-2006, 07:01 PM
#45
Willing to learn
Thread Starter
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 1,277
That's what I'm talking about. You have obviously done your homework to bring some interesting facts to this discussion.
Really what it boils down to, like most anything in life, is YOUR own perspective. If it is your car that is always in need of repair and costing you money, then that is what you must base your opinion on. Sometimes it is difficult to see past your own misery.
I am glad to see a good discussion of a car which most of us here like a great deal. I hold the Nissan brand in high esteem and the Maxima in particular. I simply have become weary of ignoring the shortcomings of the 2000 model despite the fact that a lot of them are relatively trouble free. Don't forget we are seeing the enthusiast side of things; many more of these are daily drivers that would never visit this forum.
Really what it boils down to, like most anything in life, is YOUR own perspective. If it is your car that is always in need of repair and costing you money, then that is what you must base your opinion on. Sometimes it is difficult to see past your own misery.
I am glad to see a good discussion of a car which most of us here like a great deal. I hold the Nissan brand in high esteem and the Maxima in particular. I simply have become weary of ignoring the shortcomings of the 2000 model despite the fact that a lot of them are relatively trouble free. Don't forget we are seeing the enthusiast side of things; many more of these are daily drivers that would never visit this forum.
04-24-2006, 07:27 PM
#46
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 701
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
We'll use our car and the same displacement American car as examples.
Alternator
Nissan 3.0 $220.99 110 amp
Taurus 3.0 $165.99 130 amp
Lumina 3.1 $120.99 102 amp
Radiator
Nissan 3.0 $$379.99 SPI
Taurus 3.0 $$196.99 SPI
Lumina 3.1 $192.99 SPI
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
Like I said you can discuss "Foreign VS. Domestic" all day, but ultimately the bottom line isn't where it's built. If you're looking for dependability you need to look further than "Country of Origin"
Alternator
Nissan 3.0 $220.99 110 amp
Taurus 3.0 $165.99 130 amp
Lumina 3.1 $120.99 102 amp
Radiator
Nissan 3.0 $$379.99 SPI
Taurus 3.0 $$196.99 SPI
Lumina 3.1 $192.99 SPI
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
Like I said you can discuss "Foreign VS. Domestic" all day, but ultimately the bottom line isn't where it's built. If you're looking for dependability you need to look further than "Country of Origin"
But yeah, I totally agree with what your saying.
04-24-2006, 07:53 PM
#47
Originally Posted by Gennady7
Yeah your right, domestic parts are cheaper. But then again companies like Nissan that still do develop most of these parts back in japan need to pay extra for exporting and importing them into the states.
But yeah, I totally agree with what your saying.
But yeah, I totally agree with what your saying.
Nissan 3.0 $220.99 110 amp DURALAST-IMPORT
Taurus 3.0 $165.99 130 amp DURALAST
Lumina 3.1 $120.99 102 amp DURALAST
Notice all of these are duralast companies. The "duralast-import" is porbably just a remaned nissan alt and labeled "duralast-import" so they can charge more. I wouldn't be surprised if it was reman'ed at the same place as the others. Also Notice it's 110 amp. the 130 amp is actually cheaper..
Anyhow that wasn't my point.. My point is that just because it's built in Japan doesn't make it superior. Catagerizing a whole Country's vehicles is ludicris.
04-25-2006, 07:21 AM
#49
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
1.) Of course when Hyundai came out it was terrible. Ultimately this has to do with the Corporations standard, and obviously when a new production plant first opens it must weed out the bugs, it will have problems in the beginning. That being said U.S. plants don't have lower guidelines, this is set by corporate, end of story.
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
2.) A few posts earlier I saw that 190K is great on their vq. Yea, whatever American cars go 190K all the time. Like I said my Denali had 180 on it when I sold it and actually drove smoother than it did when new because of the Monroe struts that where 80K miles old.
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
3.) Biased opinions suck. Look at the facts. The link below is the amount of cars returned to the dealer for work per 100 sold. 3 of the most 5 reliable are Domestic. Two GM and one Ford. Everyone knows Lexus is the most reliable, and will probably continue to be the most reliable for a long time. They could obviously build Toyota's just as good, but they want return customers, not everyone to drive them forever.
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/01/29/j...ability-study/
http://www.autoblog.com/2006/01/29/j...ability-study/
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
It's obvious that American cars have bad models. Foreign manufacturers also have bad models. (The worse ones probably don't get exported here, further biasing your opinions.)
All in all saying "I'm proud my car is built in Japan" is ridiculous. It doesn't matter where it's built, as long as the production plants are meeting standard which won't happen the first few years the plant opens..
All in all saying "I'm proud my car is built in Japan" is ridiculous. It doesn't matter where it's built, as long as the production plants are meeting standard which won't happen the first few years the plant opens..
)
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Bottom line is weather you buy a foreign or domestic car, you're going to have problems. If I was buying a relatively new car, (6 years old or less) I wouldn't use the country of origin as a deciding factor, period.... If I was buying an older car for say my son (8 to 10 years old) I would buy a domestic, it's going to break just like the foreign car, however parts are typically going to be cheaper than they would for foreign cars.
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
There are other parts that are actually cheaper on the Nissan as well, but traditionally speaking on cars older than 7 years old, domestic parts are typically cheaper.
Originally Posted by 5thgenmaxima
Like I said you can discuss "Foreign VS. Domestic" all day, but ultimately the bottom line isn't where it's built. If you're looking for dependability you need to look further than "Country of Origin"
I owned 5-6 domestics (I owned a BMW too but in my eyes is no better than them) before I bought Maxima and I certainly will need some serious convincing before I buy another "domestic" car...
11-07-2006, 09:15 PM
#50
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 70
1997
i have a 1997 GLE and its at 198k and THIS BABY IS A SEXY BEAST!!! i use to dislike maximas till i bought this... which my father sort of made me get and im soo happy.... at 198k this car is sooo smooth and quite (besides the knock sensor) never replaced the trans or engine LOVE IT and im trying to sell it to buy an 00' SE cant wait to get rid of my 97 gonna miss it
11-08-2006, 08:46 AM
#51
Originally Posted by irish44j
- cats: if they fail before 100K miles, Nissan is REQUIRED BY LAW to replace them...
what kind of law is it- please be kind to tell us. I just talked to my Nissan dealer and he said what you may be referring to is a warranty up to 80K mi...
I am the original owner of my 2000 and after owning 2 domestic cars, can say it is the most reliable I've owned...but do wish that it was more reliable being a Japanese-made and a flagship model. MAF, coil, brake warpage, 02, rear caliper- been there. Now at 95K mi this P0430 issue is so simple to solve but at the same time COSTLY is driving me up the wall. I still hope to find a cheap replacement for precat.
11-08-2006, 09:07 AM
#53
Originally Posted by Y2KMaxGXE-R
what kind of law is it- please be kind to tell us. I just talked to my Nissan dealer and he said what you may be referring to is a warranty up to 80K mi...
11-08-2006, 10:33 AM
#54
Originally Posted by rmd0311
Most manufacturers, including Nissan by law. (emissions)... Have an 8yr/80mile warranty on all emission related parts (except 02 sensors). If your CAT dies in this window, dealer should replace it.
11-08-2006, 03:02 PM
#56
Originally Posted by trigger005
whatever... its not THAT bad. Every car has its problems. It's not like the majority of 2000 maxs have ALL those things happen consistently.
When I look at a car's reliability, I mainly look at 2 things. ENGINE and TRANSMISSION. The max is rock solid in both.
You've "seen several" cases? Give me a break. If you're talking about people posting on this forum:
1.) ppl only post about problems when they have PROBLEMS.
2.) 2000 max isn't exactly a car that was produced in any low quantity. So it doesn't matter if you've read about 100 different cases of MAF or coil failure... thats still 100 out of 5000
allow me to crap on this thread:
this thread is
, having some guy named Love_00_Max agreeing with this and 
about some bs philosophy is and posting this thread on the org is even more
gtfo and have a nice day.
When I look at a car's reliability, I mainly look at 2 things. ENGINE and TRANSMISSION. The max is rock solid in both.
You've "seen several" cases? Give me a break. If you're talking about people posting on this forum:
1.) ppl only post about problems when they have PROBLEMS.
2.) 2000 max isn't exactly a car that was produced in any low quantity. So it doesn't matter if you've read about 100 different cases of MAF or coil failure... thats still 100 out of 5000
allow me to crap on this thread:
this thread is
, having some guy named Love_00_Max agreeing with this and about some bs philosophy is and posting this thread on the org is even more gtfo and have a nice day.
lol......
yall dudes off the chain in here
*(im just an observer)*
11-08-2006, 03:30 PM
#57
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by jawwaad05
heres a good question how many miles do you have on your 00 max or wats the highest youve seen cuz most maxs go about 200,000 + any one in the upper 100,000 on an 2000?
11-08-2006, 04:54 PM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 2,898
Originally Posted by oldngivout
Irish, I do respect your opinion and agree with you to a point. Most of the component failures I listed will not strand you, but are at worst terribly inconvenient. Some of the issues can be fixed for cheap, however only by doing the work yourself with the knowledge gained by frequenting these forums.
But I must add that the cars that I work on are daily drivers mostly, usually not modified at all and represent daily reliable transportation for hard working people. Additionally, the owners are like most people and are NOT mechanics by any stretch, and are usually at the mercy of the dealership, or when past warranty a good shop or garage. For instance, just picture one of your most incompetent non-car friends. Now imagine him replacing his ignition coils to cure the dreaded misfire condition. Could he even find the front 3 under the engine trim cover?
Some of us are entirely capable of replacing a transmission or engine, or modifying our cars with a new or modified part. Imagine the apprehension present in the everyday person when something drastic and expensive goes wrong with their car. It is not something they take lightly. Our hobby is nothing more than a means to an end for them. I talk to guys my age all the time who worked on their own cars 30 years ago, but are terrified of today's technology. FWD, EFI, these are old hat to us but not the general public.
My summary is that the 2000 Max is in my opinion overrated in reliability and underrated in cost and frequency of repair.
But I must add that the cars that I work on are daily drivers mostly, usually not modified at all and represent daily reliable transportation for hard working people. Additionally, the owners are like most people and are NOT mechanics by any stretch, and are usually at the mercy of the dealership, or when past warranty a good shop or garage. For instance, just picture one of your most incompetent non-car friends. Now imagine him replacing his ignition coils to cure the dreaded misfire condition. Could he even find the front 3 under the engine trim cover?
Some of us are entirely capable of replacing a transmission or engine, or modifying our cars with a new or modified part. Imagine the apprehension present in the everyday person when something drastic and expensive goes wrong with their car. It is not something they take lightly. Our hobby is nothing more than a means to an end for them. I talk to guys my age all the time who worked on their own cars 30 years ago, but are terrified of today's technology. FWD, EFI, these are old hat to us but not the general public.
My summary is that the 2000 Max is in my opinion overrated in reliability and underrated in cost and frequency of repair.
11-08-2006, 05:55 PM
#61
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 70
Originally Posted by ptviperz
As an ex mechanic I have to say that IMO American cars are fine until you hit 80K-100K then they start to nickel and dime you. Hell, a Max is just getting broken in at that point. ;-)
ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS WOW!!!
11-09-2006, 08:40 PM
#62
Nightmare = Reality
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 718
i have some things to agree and disagree about with this whole discussion. I love my 03Ti AT but im always caught between wanting something else and wanting to start dropping coin on suspension and other small niggles. Right now the only issues ive experienced in the 110k miles (YES you heard right 110k on an 03) was an ignition tumbler (some strange reason it froze up) and...uhh, a flat tire? actually the damn FL speaker cuts out on CDs and the sub tends to be weak.
I got one of the first Toyota Tundras off the line (a 99.5MY); apparently it was built in Indiana and it NEVER had a problem except the one where i got it stuck in a snow bank. I had a habit of leaving sand bags in the bed too (somewhere around 6-900lbs). I really can't say this truck was reliable though but i didnt bother with the extended warranty, and i only had it for 70k mi. when i traded it for my max. I didn't like that truck like i do my maxima, i mean it was nice, and i loved the engine (32v 4.7L V8) but it had no soul. no passion. it was mearly a tool, whereas the maxima is an exciting, dynamic machine with an albeit imperfect, but characteristic attitude. It's had the best quality materials and attention to detail of any car i've seen available new for less than 30k, save for a 350z, or Acura TSX. the insurance is too much on a z, and for some reason i've always been standoffish to the acuras. I grew up near a crooked Acura dealership, all the little rich preppy kids got an acura, and i think honda is excellent engineering, but i just DONT like them. everyone and their cousin's uncle's sister-in-law has either a civic or an accord and it makes me sick. i desire something more unique than that, and maxima's got it.
My first car was a 92 lumina eurosport 3.1 that i got with a 123,000mi on it, it had the transmission solenoid go, the wire going to the fuel pump got stripped and would blow fuses, the altenator died, and i finally blew the engine when i didnt change the oil for 7,000mi and cranked it out on a long sweeping onramp within minutes of starting it. Trim pieces were loose and i think 2 a/c vents didn't work, but even now, i look back fondly upon that car. the stock exhaust sounded fantastic, the car looked sharp, it was extremely roomy, it got 27mpg on the highway(with a 3-sp tranny!)
the fact is, i'd trade a little reliability for alot to love. There's a limit to this, but i think I'd deal with some niggles for fantastic style, rock-solid drivetrain, and a slick-handling suspension, no matter who built it or where it came from. im only 25 and have a Buick Lucerene CXS on my list of cars to check out. I have an Aura XR on my list of potential direct-replacements for the maxima because the engine output is roughly the same, the interior's great, the styling is more fresh than the 6th gen (especially the rear, am i the only one who thinks the 6th gen rear looks like a Saturn Ion?) oh year, and the Aura has that fantastic new GM 6-speed tranny (and trust me, it's fantastic; I'd take it blindfolded any day over ANY CVT, and over any other Automatic tranny short of something out of an M-B)
Anyway, I'm rambling, but the point is, if you want a car you truly love, step off the "foreign cars are better" bandwagon for a second and try taking a couple of test drives.
P.S. - a $23,000 Passat 2.0T is impressive. a $32,000 Passat 3.6 ISN'T
a $26,000 Maxima SE is impressive. a $32,000 Maxima kinda really isn't
a $23,000 Saturn Aura is interesting. a $26,000 Saturn Aura is VERY impressive against a $32,000 Passat 3.6 (maybe not SAE HP/torque numbers, but almost everything else about that comparo is)
I got one of the first Toyota Tundras off the line (a 99.5MY); apparently it was built in Indiana and it NEVER had a problem except the one where i got it stuck in a snow bank. I had a habit of leaving sand bags in the bed too (somewhere around 6-900lbs). I really can't say this truck was reliable though but i didnt bother with the extended warranty, and i only had it for 70k mi. when i traded it for my max. I didn't like that truck like i do my maxima, i mean it was nice, and i loved the engine (32v 4.7L V8) but it had no soul. no passion. it was mearly a tool, whereas the maxima is an exciting, dynamic machine with an albeit imperfect, but characteristic attitude. It's had the best quality materials and attention to detail of any car i've seen available new for less than 30k, save for a 350z, or Acura TSX. the insurance is too much on a z, and for some reason i've always been standoffish to the acuras. I grew up near a crooked Acura dealership, all the little rich preppy kids got an acura, and i think honda is excellent engineering, but i just DONT like them. everyone and their cousin's uncle's sister-in-law has either a civic or an accord and it makes me sick. i desire something more unique than that, and maxima's got it.
My first car was a 92 lumina eurosport 3.1 that i got with a 123,000mi on it, it had the transmission solenoid go, the wire going to the fuel pump got stripped and would blow fuses, the altenator died, and i finally blew the engine when i didnt change the oil for 7,000mi and cranked it out on a long sweeping onramp within minutes of starting it. Trim pieces were loose and i think 2 a/c vents didn't work, but even now, i look back fondly upon that car. the stock exhaust sounded fantastic, the car looked sharp, it was extremely roomy, it got 27mpg on the highway(with a 3-sp tranny!)
the fact is, i'd trade a little reliability for alot to love. There's a limit to this, but i think I'd deal with some niggles for fantastic style, rock-solid drivetrain, and a slick-handling suspension, no matter who built it or where it came from. im only 25 and have a Buick Lucerene CXS on my list of cars to check out. I have an Aura XR on my list of potential direct-replacements for the maxima because the engine output is roughly the same, the interior's great, the styling is more fresh than the 6th gen (especially the rear, am i the only one who thinks the 6th gen rear looks like a Saturn Ion?) oh year, and the Aura has that fantastic new GM 6-speed tranny (and trust me, it's fantastic; I'd take it blindfolded any day over ANY CVT, and over any other Automatic tranny short of something out of an M-B)
Anyway, I'm rambling, but the point is, if you want a car you truly love, step off the "foreign cars are better" bandwagon for a second and try taking a couple of test drives.
P.S. - a $23,000 Passat 2.0T is impressive. a $32,000 Passat 3.6 ISN'T
a $26,000 Maxima SE is impressive. a $32,000 Maxima kinda really isn't
a $23,000 Saturn Aura is interesting. a $26,000 Saturn Aura is VERY impressive against a $32,000 Passat 3.6 (maybe not SAE HP/torque numbers, but almost everything else about that comparo is)
11-10-2006, 05:44 AM
#63
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 168
Originally Posted by jawwaad05
ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS WOW!!!
Personally, I'm probably done with American cars, I've had ones I loved (68 Camaro, 95 Z28, 99 Trans Am) but I've had 2 Max's (93 and 03) that are just wonderful cars. My 03 has a whopping 42k on the clock and I don't see any reason not to keep her until 200K. That's gonna take me a while.
11-10-2006, 06:18 PM
#64
I've got an early '99 built 2000 Maxima. Currently, 69K on the odo.
I have replaced:
MAF (~20K miles ago)
All 6 coils (only two were bad though) (10K miles ago)
Driver's axle (about 500 miles ago)
02 sensors on their way out (appointment on Monday @ dealer)
And I THINK my IACV is on it's way out because of a rough idle I cannot seem to fix with the standard stuff (seafoam, clean TB, etc)
Add it up: 90+360+170 thus far. That's hardly MAJOR financial damage. Yes significant, but not really bank breaking. And that's the major stuff you're listing. Also take into consideration I've been lowered since 30K miles...40K on stock axle and being lowered is begging for a ripped CV boot.
So although it seems like a lot, all these items are DIY and including the IACV, parts are <$1000, which when spread out over 70K miles, is NOT major.
I have replaced:
MAF (~20K miles ago)
All 6 coils (only two were bad though) (10K miles ago)
Driver's axle (about 500 miles ago)
02 sensors on their way out (appointment on Monday @ dealer)
And I THINK my IACV is on it's way out because of a rough idle I cannot seem to fix with the standard stuff (seafoam, clean TB, etc)
Add it up: 90+360+170 thus far. That's hardly MAJOR financial damage. Yes significant, but not really bank breaking. And that's the major stuff you're listing. Also take into consideration I've been lowered since 30K miles...40K on stock axle and being lowered is begging for a ripped CV boot.
So although it seems like a lot, all these items are DIY and including the IACV, parts are <$1000, which when spread out over 70K miles, is NOT major.
11-11-2006, 03:39 PM
#65
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 103
i had a 98 se 5-speed fully loaded every option drove it for 2 years and bought it 97k on it and put 50k on it and every day i drove it HARD race every weekend teach those hondas what real cars are. any way i drove it alot and very ruff with high rev launches and smoking tires. i blew my differential bearings at like 107k-112k somewhere in there that cost alot to repair. but other than that all i did was oil changes and change the air filter routine maintenance. sold this early this year
The end of july this year i could not stand not having a maxima so i bought a 2000 se 5-speed w/ 57k. i dont drive my own car very much anymore because of my company car so not many miles now its at 62k. this one i baby cuz i've done some growing up (i get a ticket i lose my job) and wanted a nicer newwer car problem free no abuse. since july i have put in a new maf coil packs had some idle issues but i got lucky did the seafoam and it cleared up. my cel has gone off more times in this 5th gen my old 4th gen in all the time i had it, due to maf or coil packs or whatever. plus this one handles like S#!! and i dont trust these brakes at all( i put brand new pads on when i got this one)
i wish i still had my fourth gen it was a good flagship car and my fourth was faster and quicker than my fifth
just my 0.02
The end of july this year i could not stand not having a maxima so i bought a 2000 se 5-speed w/ 57k. i dont drive my own car very much anymore because of my company car so not many miles now its at 62k. this one i baby cuz i've done some growing up (i get a ticket i lose my job) and wanted a nicer newwer car problem free no abuse. since july i have put in a new maf coil packs had some idle issues but i got lucky did the seafoam and it cleared up. my cel has gone off more times in this 5th gen my old 4th gen in all the time i had it, due to maf or coil packs or whatever. plus this one handles like S#!! and i dont trust these brakes at all( i put brand new pads on when i got this one)
i wish i still had my fourth gen it was a good flagship car and my fourth was faster and quicker than my fifth
just my 0.02
11-11-2006, 04:26 PM
#66
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 239
I kind of disagree with everyone complainin here. Do you really believe that bad coils, MAF, etc is that big of a deal? Have you tried an american car lately? My mom drives a 99 blazer that she bought 2 months before I bought my 00 max. I have been driving my max like i stole it from day one but perform regular maintenance on it (synthetic every 3000). She drives her blazer like the senior citizen that she is. She has replaced:
Driver window motor, Driver electical seat motor, Struts, Rear trunk glass hydrolic arms, wind shield wiper motor, front turn signal assemlbly, both front calipers, water pump, alternator twice, air conditioning compressor.
I am sure that there is a bunch more that she did not tell me becuase I ***** that she bought that piece of crap. She is running about 19% repair on the car. (Bought for 26000 put $5279 into repairs - not including maintenance - wipers, oil, brake pads, etc) she has 67000 on her truck.
I am running about 3 % on my max (MAF/ 1 coil / o2 sensors / 1 rear caliper /)
I have 147000.
Driver window motor, Driver electical seat motor, Struts, Rear trunk glass hydrolic arms, wind shield wiper motor, front turn signal assemlbly, both front calipers, water pump, alternator twice, air conditioning compressor.
I am sure that there is a bunch more that she did not tell me becuase I ***** that she bought that piece of crap. She is running about 19% repair on the car. (Bought for 26000 put $5279 into repairs - not including maintenance - wipers, oil, brake pads, etc) she has 67000 on her truck.
I am running about 3 % on my max (MAF/ 1 coil / o2 sensors / 1 rear caliper /)
I have 147000.
11-11-2006, 07:31 PM
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 103
Originally Posted by geenowalker
I kind of disagree with everyone complainin here. Do you really believe that bad coils, MAF, etc is that big of a deal? Have you tried an american car lately? My mom drives a 99 blazer that she bought 2 months before I bought my 00 max. I have been driving my max like i stole it from day one but perform regular maintenance on it (synthetic every 3000). She drives her blazer like the senior citizen that she is. She has replaced:
Driver window motor, Driver electical seat motor, Struts, Rear trunk glass hydrolic arms, wind shield wiper motor, front turn signal assemlbly, both front calipers, water pump, alternator twice, air conditioning compressor.
I am sure that there is a bunch more that she did not tell me becuase I ***** that she bought that piece of crap. She is running about 19% repair on the car. (Bought for 26000 put $5279 into repairs - not including maintenance - wipers, oil, brake pads, etc) she has 67000 on her truck.
I am running about 3 % on my max (MAF/ 1 coil / o2 sensors / 1 rear caliper /)
I have 147000.
Driver window motor, Driver electical seat motor, Struts, Rear trunk glass hydrolic arms, wind shield wiper motor, front turn signal assemlbly, both front calipers, water pump, alternator twice, air conditioning compressor.
I am sure that there is a bunch more that she did not tell me becuase I ***** that she bought that piece of crap. She is running about 19% repair on the car. (Bought for 26000 put $5279 into repairs - not including maintenance - wipers, oil, brake pads, etc) she has 67000 on her truck.
I am running about 3 % on my max (MAF/ 1 coil / o2 sensors / 1 rear caliper /)
I have 147000.
11-11-2006, 08:23 PM
#68
Nightmare = Reality
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 718
i wouldn't call a 99 "lately"
second off, seems like most of that should have been covered under the factory warranty, especially since you say she drives like a senior citizen, she should hit the 3 year mark way before her milage. finally, struts and the hydralic arms on the back glass would be considered regular maintenance items. they say to do struts/shocks every 50k, but it's rare that anyone does that.
I really don't think a 7 year old blazer exactly constitutes a good example of an american car either.
second off, seems like most of that should have been covered under the factory warranty, especially since you say she drives like a senior citizen, she should hit the 3 year mark way before her milage. finally, struts and the hydralic arms on the back glass would be considered regular maintenance items. they say to do struts/shocks every 50k, but it's rare that anyone does that.
I really don't think a 7 year old blazer exactly constitutes a good example of an american car either.
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