Preventive Maintenance = $500
04-22-2006, 03:34 PM
#1
Preventive Maintenance = $500
I know the plugs are supposed to last to 100k, but after seeing others post about how their's were toast, and the fact I am going to be laid up for about two weeks here, I decided to go ahead and change them. Then, I figured if I have the rear manifold off, why not do the coils. Haven't had to replace one yet, and I am probably due. Damn coils went up too, $65 per. So, I spent $500 for coils/plugs/gasket. Probablly ended up saving the same on labor and dealer cost on the parts. I went through DaveB for the gear.
The plugs did look like they had some use on them after 75k miles. Nothing terribly wrong. The tips were worn down a bit.
I guess it took 3 hours or so. I was labeling everything too, like the vaccum hoses and the disconnected bolts/screws to make sure I didn't miss anything. The job was really fairly easy and straight-forward. It isn't as bad as it sounds. Here are some miscellanous pics from the excursion. I used this how-to, which was very good.
Greg's VQ35 Spark Plug Replacement
More pics on Page 10.
I just couldn't get away without some trouble. Oil in the chamber that sits right by the throttle body. When I lifted the coils out it was mad covered. So, once I recover, I guess I will be replacing the valve cover and gasket. From what I read, those two things are the culprit. I remember SR20DEN saying to get the A34 valve cover as it is the same and about half the price. Anyone else have any more info on the cause of the oil?
The plugs did look like they had some use on them after 75k miles. Nothing terribly wrong. The tips were worn down a bit.
I guess it took 3 hours or so. I was labeling everything too, like the vaccum hoses and the disconnected bolts/screws to make sure I didn't miss anything. The job was really fairly easy and straight-forward. It isn't as bad as it sounds. Here are some miscellanous pics from the excursion. I used this how-to, which was very good.
Greg's VQ35 Spark Plug Replacement
More pics on Page 10.
I just couldn't get away without some trouble. Oil in the chamber that sits right by the throttle body. When I lifted the coils out it was mad covered. So, once I recover, I guess I will be replacing the valve cover and gasket. From what I read, those two things are the culprit. I remember SR20DEN saying to get the A34 valve cover as it is the same and about half the price. Anyone else have any more info on the cause of the oil?
04-22-2006, 05:55 PM
#2
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: League City, TX
Posts: 8
100k for plugs is fine for people who don't want to keep their cars tip top, but I am not interested in those plugs. I avoid platinum plugs. I like old school plugs ( I prefer NGK TR55 ) and change them more often (15000 miles)
I read a year back in a review of plugs that the platinum plugs were outperformed by all others, but the platinums lasted a lot longer.
I read a year back in a review of plugs that the platinum plugs were outperformed by all others, but the platinums lasted a lot longer.
04-22-2006, 08:01 PM
#4
Originally Posted by caSE
100k for plugs is fine for people who don't want to keep their cars tip top, but I am not interested in those plugs. I avoid platinum plugs. I like old school plugs ( I prefer NGK TR55 ) and change them more often (15000 miles)
I read a year back in a review of plugs that the platinum plugs were outperformed by all others, but the platinums lasted a lot longer.
I read a year back in a review of plugs that the platinum plugs were outperformed by all others, but the platinums lasted a lot longer.
04-22-2006, 11:20 PM
#5
Originally Posted by Park2670
Thanks for the link Epacy. Bookmarked for future reference when I decide to do this.
04-23-2006, 01:09 AM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 497
The problem with the 3.5's is the intake gasket. Every time the manifold is pulled the gasket is supposed to be replaced at $20 a pop. Even with cheaper copper plugs this puts a damper on things. I'd rather just use the platinums and not have to deal with it as much.
04-23-2006, 04:15 PM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 2,836
Originally Posted by Epacy
I know the plugs are supposed to last to 100k, but after seeing others post about how their's were toast, and the fact I am going to be laid up for about two weeks here, I decided to go ahead and change them. Then, I figured if I have the rear manifold off, why not do the coils. Haven't had to replace one yet, and I am probably due. Damn coils went up too, $65 per. So, I spent $500 for coils/plugs/gasket. Probablly ended up saving the same on labor and dealer cost on the parts. I went through DaveB for the gear.
04-23-2006, 05:25 PM
#12
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
No need to pull/label vacuum lines:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/SparkPlugReplacement.htm
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/2002MaxSE/SparkPlugReplacement.htm
Did you even look at the link I included?
04-23-2006, 06:05 PM
#18
Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
...and why did you take off your intake manifold?
Originally Posted by tavarish
you spent way too much money.
Do either of you have any idea what you are talking about?
04-23-2006, 06:29 PM
#20
Originally Posted by steven88
.....heard they are dirt cheap....
Originally Posted by melvinman2003
Thats alot easier of a install then a friggen timing belt.
Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
...and why did you take off your intake manifold?
04-23-2006, 06:33 PM
#21
[QUOTE=FriscoMaxima]
Just think for a minute.......can you do that?
Originally Posted by Epacy
You wouldn't understand.
No, why don't you, the moderator explain to me why the manifol has to be removed, when i did the same job (coils and spark plugs) in 1 hour without removing IM?
No, why don't you, the moderator explain to me why the manifol has to be removed, when i did the same job (coils and spark plugs) in 1 hour without removing IM?
04-23-2006, 07:03 PM
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 1,113
Not that I'm saying that your aproach wasn't good, I would wait till something breaks to fix it, and not throw parts at the car.
The intake manifold removed looks interesting, maybe i'll mess around with that one day.
The intake manifold removed looks interesting, maybe i'll mess around with that one day.
04-23-2006, 07:03 PM
#24
[QUOTE=Epacy]
Just think for a minute.......can you do that?
i just think that if nissan made a device that zaps a moron (with at least 200000 volt) everyting he opens the hood, you, Epacy would have been killed by now... 
Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
Just think for a minute.......can you do that?
04-23-2006, 07:07 PM
#26
Originally Posted by melvinman2003
$500 aint too bad. Thats alot easier of a install then a friggen timing belt. Its goog to own the 3.5 for that reason. Love timing chains!
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
That wont ever happen with a VQ.
04-23-2006, 07:15 PM
#29
Do either of you have any idea what you are talking about?
04-23-2006, 07:28 PM
#31
[QUOTE=FriscoMaxima]
i just think that if nissan made a device that zaps a moron (with at least 200000 volt) everyting he opens the hood, you, Epacy would have been killed by now...
So....we all know you are real smart now.
Originally Posted by Epacy
i just think that if nissan made a device that zaps a moron (with at least 200000 volt) everyting he opens the hood, you, Epacy would have been killed by now...
04-23-2006, 07:29 PM
#32
Epacy, I'd like to prevent my paypal account from becoming zero, so do you mind sending me some money?
But seriously, why would you want to change all the coils when they are perfectly functional? I don't see the reasoning behind this, unless you have serious money to burn.
But seriously, why would you want to change all the coils when they are perfectly functional? I don't see the reasoning behind this, unless you have serious money to burn.
04-23-2006, 07:33 PM
#33
Originally Posted by spdfreak
Not that I'm saying that your aproach wasn't good, I would wait till something breaks to fix it, and not throw parts at the car.
The intake manifold removed looks interesting, maybe i'll mess around with that one day.
The intake manifold removed looks interesting, maybe i'll mess around with that one day.
Wait till something breaks, then fix it? Like your sepertine belt or brakes?
I tend to dislike being stranded and/or dead when I could have avoided it.
It would be throwing money away if my car had 25k miles. Not when my car has 75k miles and the lifespan of the plugs/colis aren't always what Nissan says they are.
04-23-2006, 09:04 PM
#35
Doing plugs on the rear cylinder head with the intake manifold ON is NOT possible on a 3.5L Max/Altima. END OF STORY.
3.0L have special relief spots in their intake manifold that allows for coil removal without the need of pulling the intake manifold off. DE-K manifold is not fun to remove with all the hoses + engine harness attached to it.
I just did plugs on my Max for the 2nd time at 145K miles, found no oil in the spark plug tube/holes- viva la DE-K.
3.0L have special relief spots in their intake manifold that allows for coil removal without the need of pulling the intake manifold off. DE-K manifold is not fun to remove with all the hoses + engine harness attached to it.
I just did plugs on my Max for the 2nd time at 145K miles, found no oil in the spark plug tube/holes- viva la DE-K.
04-24-2006, 03:16 PM
#36
Yeah, I was going to say, I did my plugs with a friend's help and I really don't remember having to take off the IM. So both the DE and DE-K rear plugs/coils are accessible without IM removal but the 3.5L people have to remove it? I guess I would switch back to platinum if I had to remove the manifold every time I changed plugs.
04-25-2006, 09:24 AM
#37
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 376
From a newbie shedding a little light on the topic...
First of all if the guy wants to spend $ on preventative maintenance, god bless him...maybe it will do something, maybe it won't...Either way Epacy, Plugs that are going bad will not strand you immediately. You WILL have warning signs...as for the following replies to the IM having to be removed.. the answer is NOOOOO it does not have to be removed..It still doesn't take an hour to do though. Your PLENUM has to be unbolted to do it and raised towards the front of the car. The ENTIRE INTAKE MANIFOLD DOES NOT HAVE TO BE REMOVED. I have an I35 which is the same motor as the max, and I have changed my plugs twice so far...25K and 50K. I now have 61500. Certain people are into babying the cars they drive or are paranoid about the performance of their vehicle. SO WHAT.. they are paying and doing the work so let them. Back to the point...if you remove tjust the plenum you have clearance for the coils on the firewall side of the motor. Since this is a post about this prodcedure I hav a pretty important question to ask of those who have done this before. We all know that the plenum spacer is available from Motordyne for 350Z and G35 coupe VQ's but not for Max or I35's. I wanted to find out if anyone is interested in the plenum spacer gasket for our cars (since they are front wheel drive, there is a different bolt pattern for the gasket) As a general question, what would you guys be willing to spend for an easy install product that added MINIMUM 10HP to the wheels and you did not have to leave your strut bar off????
04-25-2006, 11:36 AM
#38
Originally Posted by FriscoMaxima
i did the same job on my friend's 2003 SE... ...this is useless...
04-25-2006, 12:03 PM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 376
Just to point it out AGAIN with some detail surrounding all the cockiness here...
Everyone contradicting everyone elses opinion instead of listening to them is no good for a board that is supposed to help others do similiar jobs with the same car...Its what these boards are for...ON TO THE TOPIC AT HAND...
Take a look at the picture of the complete intake manifold that was posted in the beginning of this thread....That is the WHOLE intake manifold. There are four bolts on the back of the upper plenum that connect the air intake tube to the upper plenum...if these four bolts are removed, and the PLENUM bolts are seperated, then you have access to move the upper plenum, (the peice that is blocking access to the middle coil) You DO NOT have to take the ENTIRE manifold off to change the plugs.... I am only posting this to help someone else out with a job that they have to do. No need to call someone stupid or moronic, because in actuality that person is 100% correct. The entire intake doesn't have to be removed. I have done it personally twice. Believe it or not I really could care less, but it is the way I have done it, and I NEVER removed the whole intake manifold, I also have a spare gasket for the intake manifold, because I bought it thinking I would need it, but didn't. If you want to fight me on this point, feel free. I am trying to help people out having problems changing the plugs. I see no point, (personally) to chaning the coils unless they are bad, but it cannot hurt. To the guy who wants to close the conversation that just posted above me, you could benefit from the information being given to you. HERE IS A FREEBIE also. If you ahven't seen it before there is a 1 free horsepower gain that definitely works with plugs. When you are putting in the plugs (regardless of type) mark which side the plug top faces with a Sharpie Marker, then hand tighten until sitting correctly. Use your deep well spark plug socket to tighten the plug until the mark is facing the back of the motor in the front plug set and vice versa for the rear. 1 HP doesn't matter than much, but hey it's free right?
Take a look at the picture of the complete intake manifold that was posted in the beginning of this thread....That is the WHOLE intake manifold. There are four bolts on the back of the upper plenum that connect the air intake tube to the upper plenum...if these four bolts are removed, and the PLENUM bolts are seperated, then you have access to move the upper plenum, (the peice that is blocking access to the middle coil) You DO NOT have to take the ENTIRE manifold off to change the plugs.... I am only posting this to help someone else out with a job that they have to do. No need to call someone stupid or moronic, because in actuality that person is 100% correct. The entire intake doesn't have to be removed. I have done it personally twice. Believe it or not I really could care less, but it is the way I have done it, and I NEVER removed the whole intake manifold, I also have a spare gasket for the intake manifold, because I bought it thinking I would need it, but didn't. If you want to fight me on this point, feel free. I am trying to help people out having problems changing the plugs. I see no point, (personally) to chaning the coils unless they are bad, but it cannot hurt. To the guy who wants to close the conversation that just posted above me, you could benefit from the information being given to you. HERE IS A FREEBIE also. If you ahven't seen it before there is a 1 free horsepower gain that definitely works with plugs. When you are putting in the plugs (regardless of type) mark which side the plug top faces with a Sharpie Marker, then hand tighten until sitting correctly. Use your deep well spark plug socket to tighten the plug until the mark is facing the back of the motor in the front plug set and vice versa for the rear. 1 HP doesn't matter than much, but hey it's free right?
04-25-2006, 12:27 PM
#40
Originally Posted by sleeperI35
...as for the following replies to the IM having to be removed.. the answer is NOOOOO it does not have to be removed..
Originally Posted by sleeperI35
... As a general question, what would you guys be willing to spend for an easy install product that added MINIMUM 10HP to the wheels and you did not have to leave your strut bar off????
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
No you didn't. The rear of the manifold covers the center coil. You cannot remove the center coil without removing the manifold. Thank you for playing, goodbye.