For those of you who think blow by is minimal part 2! *56k* *pictures included*
04-24-2006, 10:50 PM
#41
hey Melvin...yeah I am running 0w-30 german castrol....its actually a REAL thick 30 weight, nearly 40 weight oil....Nissan recommends 5w-30...but my german castrol, although rated at 0w-30, is actually thicker than most of the competitor's weights....it will handle 105 degrees fine if u ask me 
what oil are you using? I recommend switching to german castrol if you can find any in your area...vq35s love thick oils....mobil1 tends to be on the thin side of the spectrum...and vq35s dont really like thin oils
what oil are you using? I recommend switching to german castrol if you can find any in your area...vq35s love thick oils....mobil1 tends to be on the thin side of the spectrum...and vq35s dont really like thin oils
04-24-2006, 11:00 PM
#42
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 196
I agree. My altima loved thick oil and most Z owners I talked to live by it. I will look into that. The oil im using now im not even sure. I just got my car from the dealer this past wednesday and I already have the GAB mod w/K&N!! This weekend im thinking of changing the oil just to break it in with the synthetic. I will definently look for the castrol 0w-30. You said german castrol is there a difference or are you just emphasizing its german. HEHE
04-24-2006, 11:05 PM
#43
Originally Posted by melvinman2003
I agree. My altima loved thick oil and most Z owners I talked to live by it. I will look into that. The oil im using now im not even sure. I just got my car from the dealer this past wednesday and I already have the GAB mod w/K&N!! This weekend im thinking of changing the oil just to break it in with the synthetic. I will definently look for the castrol 0w-30. You said german castrol is there a difference or are you just emphasizing its german. HEHE
the regular castrol syntec line is made in the USA...5w-30, 10w-30, 10w-40, 20w-50 etc....you will be able to tell when you look on the back of the bottle...it will say Made in USA...german castrol on the other hand, only comes in a 0w-30 and its the ONLY one made in Germany...they are only sold @ autozone or advanced auto parts chains....just letting you know...
basically what your looking for is 0w-30 castrol syntec...and on the back it HAS to say made in germany...let me know if you have any more questions...glad to help
04-24-2006, 11:14 PM
#45
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 196
OMG!! I just watched your video!! Your car shot out a nice flame!!! Thats nuts man. I didnt expect to see that from a car thats NA!!
Off topic have you heard of the techno square chip? I been researching on that and from what ive read just that chip alone helps alot. Looks like it can shave a good second off the 1/4 from what ive read.
Off topic have you heard of the techno square chip? I been researching on that and from what ive read just that chip alone helps alot. Looks like it can shave a good second off the 1/4 from what ive read.
04-24-2006, 11:22 PM
#46
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Atlantic City, NJ
Posts: 606
Originally Posted by steven88
how weird...I actually been using another catch can but with the same type of hose...it never collapsed and held up well for the 6 months I used it....and I would check out my catch can after some hard driving, and the hoses are still rock solid...
04-24-2006, 11:22 PM
#47
Originally Posted by melvinman2003
OMG!! I just watched your video!! Your car shot out a nice flame!!! Thats nuts man. I didnt expect to see that from a car thats NA!!
Off topic have you heard of the techno square chip? I been researching on that and from what ive read just that chip alone helps alot. Looks like it can shave a good second off the 1/4 from what ive read.
Off topic have you heard of the techno square chip? I been researching on that and from what ive read just that chip alone helps alot. Looks like it can shave a good second off the 1/4 from what ive read.
I wouldn't mind the technosquare L-spec ecu....it raises the rev limiter and removes the speed governor and fixes the throttle body problem....thats about it...doesn't mess with the air fuel ratio....but thats becuz I already have an Apex-I V-AFCII piggyback to tune my air fuel ratio...
Your probably talking about the technosquare F-spec ecu....now thats the one I wouldn't wanna buy...it has everything listed from above, but their own maps for air fuel ratio....my personal preference would be to tune my OWN air fuel ratio...instead of using a generic map...every car is a little different, so a piggyback is the way to go if you ask me....I have a PLX R300 wideband as well....
04-25-2006, 06:18 AM
#48
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 196
I didnt want to sway to much away from your thread so I made a new one specifically for the chips at:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....01#post4918801
BTW that apexi piggyback is sexy. My friend had one in his corolla which was nice.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....01#post4918801
BTW that apexi piggyback is sexy. My friend had one in his corolla which was nice.
04-25-2006, 09:39 AM
#49
Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Lunenburg, MA
Posts: 249
I'm sorry, but this is solving a non-problem. The ounce or two of oil you collect over the 800 miles is not going to affect anything. If you're collecting enough oil to make a difference, you need a rebuild.
04-25-2006, 09:53 AM
#50
Originally Posted by jvienneau
I'm sorry, but this is solving a non-problem. The ounce or two of oil you collect over the 800 miles is not going to affect anything. If you're collecting enough oil to make a difference, you need a rebuild.
04-25-2006, 12:16 PM
#52
Originally Posted by Maxima-Ness
so, ive seen the write up for the 5.0, did anyone do a write up for the 5.5? Im sure its simple, but that usually means ill screw it up. 
04-26-2006, 06:58 AM
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,108
Originally Posted by steven88
the instructions are on the first page....2nd post has all the listing of supplies you need...
okay, I must be stupid, blind or both. I only see the parts list, no how to. Plenty of pics tho...
04-26-2006, 08:26 AM
#56
Originally Posted by Maxima-Ness
okay, I must be stupid, blind or both. I only see the parts list, no how to. Plenty of pics tho...
. hi andrew
. hey andrew there isnt any instructions at all. you damn newbie andrew ima beat you ugly with a cancer stick lol.
04-26-2006, 08:43 AM
#58
the diagram goes
1. PCV valve
2. Hose
3. Catch Can
4. Hose
5. Intake manifold
there I copied paste it for you...its post #37...if you guys can't understand this diagram, ya'll have a problem
1. PCV valve
2. Hose
3. Catch Can
4. Hose
5. Intake manifold
there I copied paste it for you...its post #37...if you guys can't understand this diagram, ya'll have a problem
04-26-2006, 08:46 AM
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2000
Posts: 2,108
Originally Posted by steven88
the diagram goes
1. PCV valve
2. Hose
3. Catch Can
4. Hose
5. Intake manifold
there I copied paste it for you...its post #37...if you guys can't understand this diagram, ya'll have a problem
1. PCV valve
2. Hose
3. Catch Can
4. Hose
5. Intake manifold
there I copied paste it for you...its post #37...if you guys can't understand this diagram, ya'll have a problem
....I have a problem.......
where may I find these points?
.....at least points 1 & 5
04-29-2006, 01:29 AM
#61
This is about 400 miles of driving...mixed hwy city...mostly city though....I'm sure I'll be dumping this thing 5 times per oil change (@ 5k intervals)....
now tell me you want all this motor oil getting sucked back into the intake manifold?
04-29-2006, 02:02 PM
#64
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 196
Has anyone experimented with different oil to see if they get less blowby. Thicker oil will reduce the blowby. What we need is people to post there oil weight and how much is going into the catch can.
After reading how people are burning oil on the 3.5 Maximas I made my own decision today to go 10w-30 Mobil 1 which is the thicker weight oil that the Nissan manual recommends. I figured less blowby, less detonation.
After reading how people are burning oil on the 3.5 Maximas I made my own decision today to go 10w-30 Mobil 1 which is the thicker weight oil that the Nissan manual recommends. I figured less blowby, less detonation.
04-29-2006, 02:08 PM
#65
i'm running 0w-30 german castrol...its actually alot thicker than mobil1's 10w-30...german castrol is advertised at the same 30wt as mobil1's 30wt...but mobil1 always tends to be on the thin side of the spectrum...this german castrol however, is a special formula that gets real thick at operating temps....nearly a 40wt
04-29-2006, 03:40 PM
#66
Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 196
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/gc/gc.html
Damn now I know why look for the green. BAHAHA. steven88 ive read that just googling around but is there actual data that proves that its a higher weight, benefits, etc. Its just crazy how this motor burns oil.
Damn now I know why look for the green. BAHAHA. steven88 ive read that just googling around but is there actual data that proves that its a higher weight, benefits, etc. Its just crazy how this motor burns oil.
04-29-2006, 04:49 PM
#67
Originally Posted by melvinman2003
http://home.comcast.net/~dsmphotos/gc/gc.html
Damn now I know why look for the green. BAHAHA. steven88 ive read that just googling around but is there actual data that proves that its a higher weight, benefits, etc. Its just crazy how this motor burns oil.
Damn now I know why look for the green. BAHAHA. steven88 ive read that just googling around but is there actual data that proves that its a higher weight, benefits, etc. Its just crazy how this motor burns oil.
04-29-2006, 06:44 PM
#68
Originally Posted by steven88
it's in the back, near the firewall....
you think you can post pics of the exact spots? maybe with arrows? or maybe tell us like where along the firewall it is? i honestly have no idea where the PCV valve is..and where on the IM too hook it up to.
because all I see in your pics is the finished product w/ hoses going into the dark engine bay.
04-29-2006, 07:09 PM
#69
Originally Posted by MaxedOut
you think you can post pics of the exact spots? maybe with arrows? or maybe tell us like where along the firewall it is? i honestly have no idea where the PCV valve is..and where on the IM too hook it up to.
because all I see in your pics is the finished product w/ hoses going into the dark engine bay.
because all I see in your pics is the finished product w/ hoses going into the dark engine bay.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=469585
There you go. If you still cant figure it out then you probably shouldnt even try it.
05-06-2006, 12:24 PM
#70
noone has said anything so im not sure if anyone who has done this mod has seen it... but on the husky filter, there is a warning sticker stating not to use this filter with any synthetic oils. apparently they will eat away at the bowl and crack through.
05-06-2006, 02:00 PM
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 141
Read the label and figured it wouldn't matter. I'm not going to use that plastic thing for long. I'm going to buy a nice metal/glass unit.
I had this setup on for about 500 miles and got about 1oz. of oil. I just emptied it about 2 min ago.
I had this setup on for about 500 miles and got about 1oz. of oil. I just emptied it about 2 min ago.
05-15-2006, 08:10 PM
#75
Would this husky filter be a lot better since it has a metal bowl.
Is it too big?
I'm thinking about returning the smaller husky filter and buying this one.
3/8 In. airline filters
• Removes unwanted dirt particles and condensed water to extend tool life.
• 5-micron element.
• Metal bowl guard protects against impacts.
• Quick release bowl and quarter turn drain for easier use.
• 3/8" NPT Female ports.
• 57 SCFM flow capacity @90 PSI.
Is it too big?
I'm thinking about returning the smaller husky filter and buying this one.
3/8 In. airline filters
• Removes unwanted dirt particles and condensed water to extend tool life.
• 5-micron element.
• Metal bowl guard protects against impacts.
• Quick release bowl and quarter turn drain for easier use.
• 3/8" NPT Female ports.
• 57 SCFM flow capacity @90 PSI.
05-16-2006, 12:47 AM
#76
Originally Posted by steven88
I'm running 0w-30...why would it be easier to catch than 10w-30?
06-11-2006, 05:03 PM
#80
I recently went with a new setup...the braided hose did not collapse on me...but I was affraid that sooner or later it would...so I just went to autozone and got myself alot of fuel hose....came out to be like $7...
I got alot of hose becuz I wanted to relocate the tank somewhere else...somewhere closer so it would look more noticeable...and less ghetto...so I attached it near the coolant resourviour...and it looks great! The hose wasn't as cheap as I thought...I believe its $1.25 per foot....as opposed to $0.60 per ft for the braided ones...