How-to for Blow By Catch Can
06-01-2007, 09:44 PM
#81
Nightmare = Reality
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Waterford, MI
Posts: 718
Originally Posted by Maxim(a)SerjVQ
has anyone tried using a remote oil filter housing for this application? I've seen a few and despite the higher cost, you could run an el cheapo oil filter on the end and it's already designed for holding hot oil. and if you even have to replace it it'll be $5-10
anyone?
anyone?
06-02-2007, 10:45 AM
#85
hey law, thanks again for the write up. i put miine in today using almost the exact same parts as you. The only things i used different was instread Ward adapters i got the husky adapter kit which included all the clamps and such. Also i went to pepboys and picked up some fuel injection braded hose for about 4.79 a ft and it seems to be holding up fine. So far it has collected oil and thats with about 30-50 miles of driving. It is very little but im happy with the results. Thanks again. 
06-02-2007, 07:28 PM
#86
Member
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 30
I'm still trying to find the best catch-can out there 
so I've been reading and reading...
I liked the idea with the steel mesh condensing the vapors but for those on sale on eBay for example, they don't give any details what's the inside of the catch can like.
Found a guy who posted pics after dissecting his, the model is also sold on eBay. See the images here: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ad.php?t=91390
Like most of the ones on eBay, the in/out pipes are too close.
A catch can that looks very promising is this one made by AMW:
Comes with the steel mesh and little different system for in/out (more like the HD filter).
Looking at the parts and the explanation how to install I think this is a good one even if it doesn't have the level indicator.
I'm not sure if the company sells them anymore
Followed the link but can't see it on the website.
It says there the company is located in TX:
Accurate Machine Works
4400 Pate Road
College Station, TX 77845
What do you think of this design, guys?
so I've been reading and reading...I liked the idea with the steel mesh condensing the vapors but for those on sale on eBay for example, they don't give any details what's the inside of the catch can like.
Found a guy who posted pics after dissecting his, the model is also sold on eBay. See the images here: http://www.northamericanmotoring.com...ad.php?t=91390
Like most of the ones on eBay, the in/out pipes are too close.
A catch can that looks very promising is this one made by AMW:
Comes with the steel mesh and little different system for in/out (more like the HD filter).
Looking at the parts and the explanation how to install I think this is a good one even if it doesn't have the level indicator.
I'm not sure if the company sells them anymore
Followed the link but can't see it on the website.
It says there the company is located in TX:
Accurate Machine Works
4400 Pate Road
College Station, TX 77845
What do you think of this design, guys?
06-03-2007, 11:27 AM
#87
Well I just installed this yesterday and something is jacked up.
My car is taking 10-15 cranks for a cold start instead of the usual 2-3. I turn the car off and let it sit for a minute and it's taking a consistent 7-9 cranks to start. Any idea on what could be causing this?
I just put the setup back the way it was before and it's still the same. I did notice that I didn't move to O-ring from the old PCV to the new one which I did also just now.
Will it take the CPU or whatever time to adjust back to the way it was before?
Any help is greatlyyyyy appreciated.
My car is taking 10-15 cranks for a cold start instead of the usual 2-3. I turn the car off and let it sit for a minute and it's taking a consistent 7-9 cranks to start. Any idea on what could be causing this?
I just put the setup back the way it was before and it's still the same. I did notice that I didn't move to O-ring from the old PCV to the new one which I did also just now.
Will it take the CPU or whatever time to adjust back to the way it was before?
Any help is greatlyyyyy appreciated.
06-03-2007, 12:31 PM
#89
Well I also put it back to the way it was and still it's taking way to long to start up. Aw crap that does make sense. Does anyone know if that would effect anything that I might need to fix now? I had the setup on the car for one night and today I'm sitting around twiddling my thumbs until I hear some sort of solution.
06-03-2007, 02:57 PM
#90
Originally Posted by macnolias
Well I also put it back to the way it was and still it's taking way to long to start up. Aw crap that does make sense. Does anyone know if that would effect anything that I might need to fix now? I had the setup on the car for one night and today I'm sitting around twiddling my thumbs until I hear some sort of solution.
06-03-2007, 03:17 PM
#91
The battery is brand spanking new I changed it two days ago. It's really frustrating I put back on the original PCV valve and everything.
Would a possible vacuum leak cause this problem? Maybe one of the hoses has a possible leak in it....
Would a possible vacuum leak cause this problem? Maybe one of the hoses has a possible leak in it....
06-04-2007, 06:37 PM
#94
If you want to stop oil from getting into your manifold you will have to install 2 filters not just one. The direction of flow at idle and low RPM's is from the front bank down through the engine up the other side and out the PCV and from there to the intake manifold.
However at medium and higher RPM's the flow is reversed in the one on the front of the engine and oil and fumes are coming from both banks. Depending on the condition of your engine it will happen at higher or lower in the RPM range. Poor engine lower, good engine higher in the RPM range because there is less blowby.
There is a fairly extensive writeup in the FSM on this phenomina. Well not really a phenomina but what happens during idle is not necessarily what happens at other RPM levels.
For the really performance minded Jegs sells a venturi kit for the exhaust manifolds that will literally suck the fumes from both banks and send it out the exhaust. Not really a good idea for emissions.
What I have used for the past 2 years is just a filter on each bank exhausting the fumes to atmosphere. I wouldnt recommend that unless you don't mind Al Gore hunting you down, he has already warned me about my lack of a cat and I don't even live in the US.
However at medium and higher RPM's the flow is reversed in the one on the front of the engine and oil and fumes are coming from both banks. Depending on the condition of your engine it will happen at higher or lower in the RPM range. Poor engine lower, good engine higher in the RPM range because there is less blowby.
There is a fairly extensive writeup in the FSM on this phenomina. Well not really a phenomina but what happens during idle is not necessarily what happens at other RPM levels.
For the really performance minded Jegs sells a venturi kit for the exhaust manifolds that will literally suck the fumes from both banks and send it out the exhaust. Not really a good idea for emissions.
What I have used for the past 2 years is just a filter on each bank exhausting the fumes to atmosphere. I wouldnt recommend that unless you don't mind Al Gore hunting you down, he has already warned me about my lack of a cat and I don't even live in the US.
06-05-2007, 08:13 AM
#95
Originally Posted by Jime
If you want to stop oil from getting into your manifold you will have to install 2 filters not just one. The direction of flow at idle and low RPM's is from the front bank down through the engine up the other side and out the PCV and from there to the intake manifold.
However at medium and higher RPM's the flow is reversed in the one on the front of the engine and oil and fumes are coming from both banks. Depending on the condition of your engine it will happen at higher or lower in the RPM range. Poor engine lower, good engine higher in the RPM range because there is less blowby.
...
However at medium and higher RPM's the flow is reversed in the one on the front of the engine and oil and fumes are coming from both banks. Depending on the condition of your engine it will happen at higher or lower in the RPM range. Poor engine lower, good engine higher in the RPM range because there is less blowby.
...
06-06-2007, 04:51 PM
#100
Originally Posted by absoundlab
so the setup should be pcv hose going into the oil catch out of the oil catch back to the motor.
06-06-2007, 05:41 PM
#102
Originally Posted by absoundlab
so i need two of them?
06-12-2007, 07:10 PM
#105
Originally Posted by Jime
You only need 2 if you want to catch all the oil not just part of it.
06-12-2007, 07:52 PM
#106
So I been reading on about this, some ppl have issues about the hoses flattening out, There is a Fix for this, In most parts stores there is a HELP section, Find the long springs, put them inside the hose and it wont flatten out on you anymore ^_^
06-12-2007, 07:55 PM
#107
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by Professor`
So I been reading on about this, some ppl have issues about the hoses flattening out, There is a Fix for this, In most parts stores there is a HELP section, Find the long springs, put them inside the hose and it wont flatten out on you anymore ^_^
no there are more than one type of hoses. in automotive apps. you have fuel, oil and vaccum. if you use actual oil hose then you wont have a problem
06-12-2007, 08:02 PM
#108
Originally Posted by absoundlab
no there are more than one type of hoses. in automotive apps. you have fuel, oil and vaccum. if you use actual oil hose then you wont have a problem
06-12-2007, 09:24 PM
#110
Hey Jime, if you don't mind, can you post some pictures of your set up? The reason why I ask is because I believe that if there is oil entering the IM, i think it causes a loud humming noise in my motor at around 2500-3500 rpm. It might be in my head but whe nI empty out my oil catch can, it kind of goes away. I want to step it up to the two catch cans setup.
BTW, where does the front hoses plug into front bank?
BTW, where does the front hoses plug into front bank?
06-20-2007, 06:29 PM
#111
So i installed a catch can on the 2000 max today Exact one in photo from home depot, $11.64 hehe, i replaced my pcv valve also in the process and i DESTROYED the pcv valve grommet doing so, Now i need a damn grommet, the pcv valve is under the damn throttle body in these 2k maxs, vq30dek , What a pain in the **** to replace 
so far i did not notice anything and the bowl is still clean, we will see in a few days now.
so far i did not notice anything and the bowl is still clean, we will see in a few days now.
06-25-2007, 02:46 PM
#116
2k max Catch can
Here is some photos of the catch can install in the 2k max , i went and got the same items as listed in this thread, Works like a charm.
:
The pcv valve was a &*#$@$ to get to , I took the airbox out to make it a little easier, Then during the reinstall i tore the grommet, went to advace auto and got a new one with a new valve, put some vasaline on it, slide right in.
Hardest part is getting to the pcv valve wich is under the throttle body./
:The pcv valve was a &*#$@$ to get to , I took the airbox out to make it a little easier, Then during the reinstall i tore the grommet, went to advace auto and got a new one with a new valve, put some vasaline on it, slide right in.
Hardest part is getting to the pcv valve wich is under the throttle body./