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Y-Pipe Install...PITA & Unsuccessful

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Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:00 PM
  #1  
Pri63's Avatar
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Y-Pipe Install...PITA & Unsuccessful

I've had the cattman y-pipe now for a few weesk and was finally able to get some time to install it...or try to anyway.

How did you guys get the rear bank off...one of the bolts is impossible to access. Take a look, there's a third one back there that's virtually impossible, enlighten me y-pipes installers.



If any one has any idea what's on the oxy sensor, holla back...it didn't smell like oil.

thank for the help...

Cincy folks, if I can't get this thing off any recommendations on where I can take it to get installed?

Take it easy
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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For those bolts I used a ratchet with a piviting head and a long extension. Good luck
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 08:38 PM
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I just did this this Wednesday (2 days ago). I used a long extension, like 6 inches, with a "universal-type" elbow. Those god damned heat shields really got in the way, but you can do it. The oxy-sensor is a 23mm or 22mm btw, can't remember, but its pretty big so make sure you have both those sizes.

The two nuts on the flange on the cat were also a problem. I used a combination of a blow torch and hammer to 'dissfuse' the nut from the rust and flange. After I could see the entire outline of the mangled nut I then used Vice Grips to turn them off, quite the pain.

Another thing is the y pipe I had didn't quite line up with the holes. It was off by say half an inch and I thought this was a major problem. Luckily the metal had some bend to it with a little force. Basically, just get creative and you can do it.

The job took me around 4 hours because of the heat shield nuts being almost welded to it with rust.

Good luck man! My AOL SN is Denis Finn, just im me even if I'm away and I'll get back to you as soon as possible.

DF
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by dfownz
I just did this this Wednesday (2 days ago
What kind of Ypipe did you have?
Old Apr 28, 2006 | 09:16 PM
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Not sure on the fitament of the Cattman, but I used a 3" pivot and 6" pivot extension to get to that nut. It wasn't too bad. Save the frustration and get one at HD!! Also, get some PB Blaster to loosen the rust!!
Old Apr 29, 2006 | 03:35 AM
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you need...

2 of these (6 inch is the best)



and 2 of these

Old Apr 29, 2006 | 04:32 AM
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PB Blaster is your friend, use it and be happier.
Old Apr 29, 2006 | 08:10 AM
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XSPerformance.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 06:32 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by soonerfan
you need...

2 of these (6 inch is the best)



and 2 of these

you use a 3/8 drive or 1/2 uni joint...I torqued the sh*t out of the 3/8 universal joint and of course it broke. I put a 14mm deep socket to universal joint to 6 inch extension to rachet...

I was reading on some other post that I should take it to Midas and get all the bolts replaced.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 07:49 PM
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1. Always use 1/2 drive for anything that requires substantial torque to break free.

2. old y-pipe can be...um....removed using a reciprocating saw with a metal blade. Once that nasty pipe is cut off, it's easy to get to the last bolt

3. Getting the bolts replaced is a good idea, and will make life much easier.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 07:53 PM
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a 1 foot extension and a piviting head and a torque wrench did the trick.
Old Apr 30, 2006 | 08:03 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by siren001
a 1 foot extension and a piviting head and a torque wrench did the trick.

NEVER use a torque wrench to break a tough bolt loose!!!! That's a great way to either break or screw up the torque measurement settings on your torque wrench, which are not cheap to replace. Torque wrenches are only for tightening bolts to correct torque...not loosening them!

Use a breaker bar, or an impact gun/wrench to get the tough ones off.
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