My Maxima loses power somwhere around 4,000 RPMs. I notice the car is acelerating then it hits a certain point and nothing. I actually have to let off the accelerator sometimes just to get it to change gears.

It has 89,000 miles on it and I just changed the plugs a few weeks ago (hoping that would fix the problem).

I was thinking it might be the MAF but most people who replaced the MAF also had stalling problems and I don't have that.

Anyone have any ideas what this could be?

 

probably not the MAF
sounds like the slipping tranny problem to me

 

I have the same slipping tranny problem. Whats the best fix, and where is the best place to get it done? Don't wanna get raped at the stealership.

 

there is a TSB for it

http://maxima.theowensfamily.com/tsb/NTB00-039a.pdf

 

during the power loss are you going partial throttle or wide open throttle?

 

Guys.. note the year of the car: 2K

Two guesses: MAF or variable intake is NOT opening as it should.

My car hung up between gears when the MAF was bad. It did NOT stall or throw any codes. The engine pulled from idle to around 3500 RPMS where it almost hit a wall. I could baby it up to 5000 RPMS but it felt like someone tied something heavy to the back. Let off the gas and it would shift only to do the same thing again. Kept the Revs below 3500 and is was drivable.

 

Sounds like the exact same problem I'm having! I was torn between just replacing the MAF and bringing it into the dealership. But I think your post convinces me to at least try the MAF. I'll try replacing it tomorrow night (if they have it in stock).

Did you manually reset your ECU, have the dealer reprogram the ECU for the new MAF or just install the MAF and nothing else?

 

Unplug your battery for a few minutes after installing your new MAF.
Enjoy your faster Maxima

 

I would suggest calling Dave Burnette becuase he can get you a decent discount on new MAF's. I do not remember the exact price but I am sure someone will chime in.

 

My Nissan extended warranty covered it 100% with no deductible

The dealer did reprogram the ECU while they had the car.

Travis

 

What about for an 02 Max. Theres no tranny slip TSB, but I think that is the problem. Could be the MAF, but not sure. Should I just chang out MAF and see what happens? Then if nothing, get tranny fixed?

 

I think, if memory is right between $90-100 shipped.

 

Is it still under the 5yr/60k mile warranty? If so I say go to the dealer as painful as that sounds.

T

 

Well you could do that, but you have a VQ35 and the MAF is 400.00+. Go to the stealer and get it diagnosed. Then go from there.

 

Nissan lists the MAF for the 02-03 as $400+, but he could just get a 01 MAF with part number 22680-2Y001 fpr $100 and swap in the IAT from the 02 MAF, and see if that changes things. There also is a How-To on this in the Stickies for anyone who needs to do it.

 

Does it top out in every gear at 4-5000 rpms?

If so, my money is on the VIAS being broken.

 

I'm not sure what you mean by "top out". But everything I've read on the VIAS makes it seem like a broken VIAS causes a subtle loss of power. What I experience is a dramatic loss of power. The car goes from accelerating to just maintaining speed in an instant. It is so pronounced that the passenger can actually notice the power drop off. To them it appears as though I took my foot off the accelerator.

 

I think he means does it stop reving at 4-5k rpms. I would guess MAF for you.

 

for the MAF

 

when my vias was broken in the closed position, i was losing 30whp at redline. i would call that pretty significant. is your foot all the way down on the pedal (wot) or is the power loss still at the same rpm at partial throttle.

 

I meant that even though you can rev past 5000 rpms, the power drops off after that... like this:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=466415

Not sure if that's as extreme as your describing though.

 

simple I had the same problem,.... I just changed the tranny fluid, and it worked great for my car. I also changed the tranny filter too. it is a DIY thing.

 

I have only heard of the stalling problem in manuals cause we dont get the clutch in till after idle. i would look at MAF, if the CEL goes on maybe look at a "random" misfire. i know it sounds strange but ive seen it happen.

P.S. MAFs arent always coupled with stalling, even on manuals

 

i have the same exact problem....I didnt have it when i was on an ebay cai...but after i went to GAB with K&N air filter, it started doing the same thing to my car. I dont think that GAB is the reason for it....
But when i floor my car, and once i hit 3.5k RPM my car will not pull at all, it'll keep the same speed, it'll hardly speed up. But once it passes 4k rpm, it gets the power back, and it pulls like crazy. I usually let go off of the gas padel once i hit 3.5k rpm, and than hit it again, that way it shifts, and it'll get the power back.....
I did talke to the technician today, while he was adv. my timing, and asked him what could be the problem.....and he said that MAF could be the problem, not 100% sure tho.....and i asked him if the VIAS could be the problem also, and he said, no, cause' it opens at like 5k rpm....
so idk if its the maf or not...if anyone finds any more info on this i would love to fix it....It feels so weird, when it looses power
thanks guys
huso btw: i have a 00 maxima, 80k miles, its an automatic

 

I had the same problem on my car last winter. Sounds like you described what was happening with mine exactly. I bought a new MAF and put it in myself and it totally cured all high rpm power loss. I had to let up on the gas to get my car to upshift just so I could continue to accelerate. Once I put the new one in, there was no hesitation, no power loss, it just pulled all the way up, no complaints.

 

I can't equate the loss of power to whp so I can't say if it is similar to losing 30 whp, but it is dramatic.

I don't know if I have the problem if the car is not wot. Can you hit 4 or 5K w/o wot? Hopefully I'll remember to check that on my way to work tomorrow.

On my way home from work tonight it actually pulled all the way to the redline. That is not the typical case but occasionally it will work. I tend to attribute on/off behavior as an electronic problem (MAF) more than a mechanical problem (VIAS). Mechanical problems have a tendency to "stay broken".

I'm just hoping I can get a chance to replace the MAF tomorrow.

 

i know im a newb for asking this but maf stands for mass airflow filter what does VAIS stand for

 

vais- variable air induction system
vias- variable induction air control system both are referring to the same thing though i believe nissan used the later in the literature such as in the fsm/esm.

 

I had this same issue on my 2000 (AT)... It was a valve body on the transmission. My car would pull until 3.5k, then it would just drop off. I also had a cold start stall/rough idle issue, which new MAF and coils took care of. I'd try the cheaper solution first, as I had this all done at the dealer (valve body = $900, MAF/coils = free) There's a TSB somewhere...

 

My car does the exact same thing. I accle all the way it revs and starts going then it just sounds crazy and goes up to high RPMs and just makes a noise and takes forever to shift... I sometimes also have to de accel to shift... Its a embarrassing amoun tof power gone I find myself acceling as hard as I can and then realizing all the other cars around me are going just as fast... I didnt realize how weak my car was until I drove our lexus. This makes me very mad and I thin it is probably the MAF and I will save up some money and tell you what happens lol

 

anyone tested their knock sensor to see if that is bad and pulling timing? i had the same exact problem in my 240sx, i started testing sensors and found my knock sensor and o2 bad, so i replaced both, all problems are gone now. get a multi meter and a FSM and check voltage and resistance on your sensors, before you start buying and swapping parts.

 

WOW!! I just replaced the MAF and WOW! What a difference! This car has top end again!

Thanks for all your advice!!

 

About 500 miles after I replaced the MAF the SES light came on w/ a P0430 code. I cleared the code and a couple days later the light came back on (I haven't checked it but I'm assuming it is the same code). Has anyone else had this problem after replacing their MAF?

 

Mine has a similar problem. Just got done changing all 6 ignit. coils 3 wks ago. Ran perfect until now. At 3800 RPM it loses power big time. It'll slowly accelerate to 4500 RPM after that with no torque left. It also has very little power right after starting up (cold) it almost stalls. Seems to run OK at 1/2 throttle settings or less after warmed up.

MAF sensor bad?

6/06/06
Yes it was bad. Just got done installing a new MAF sensor (AllEurasianAutoparts.com, $105). Wow, what a difference. I CAN give you full power captain! Thanks for the help folks.

P.S. Only 67K miles, I'm not too happy with Nissan right now. I know, I know, its a 2000 model...

 

Sounds like the same problem I had. Replacing the MAF made my car feel new again.

 

My girlfriends I30 has the same problem, loss of power at 3800 or so RPM. I guess I will try the MAF and hope it cures it.

I can't start my own thread yet, so I hope I can tag this onto the end of this one-
While looking under the hood to other possible issues I noticed two wires that look like the insulation had melted off. These wires are on the F43/F191 Engine Conrol Connector. The two wires are the Red/Black on pin 6 (Injector No1) and the other is the wire on pin 8 which is Pink/Blue or Light Blue.

I have the service manual but can't locate wire 8. Anyone have a wiring diagram? Or is it online in PDF?

 

Oh, the part should be the same as for that year of Maxima, but is the P/N the same too?

 

I recently went cold air intake , had same problem, car just lost all power after about 3-4k rpm. had to clean all piping , MAF and air temp sensor (only cleaned piping after having to clean both sensors 3 times running car after each clean) I cleaned everything with MAF sensor cleaner and insulated whole piping setup;particuarly, because my placement of air temp sensor was way to close to radiator hose, so had to insulate that,and decided to insulate whole system. now car pulls mint as and runs cooler, but is slightly lacking in power after 4500-5k rpms this was a problem before CAI install but is slightly worse now. PLEASE ,, what is a/the VAIS??

 

, any one replacing MAF sensor needs to go genuine nissan , I got quote in NZ dollars for genuine nissan MAF (which only comes with housing, not separate) and it was $1170 NZD , now this is why one should go genuine nissan for MAF ,as why do you think a stupid peice of plastic housing would cost $1170? because it does not, the price is for the genuine MAF .