Spent 2 hours doing my first brake job...but questions
#1
Spent 2 hours doing my first brake job...but questions
So on a nice Sunday afternoon, I attempted my very first brake job. What came off were warped OEM rotors with 18,xxx miles on them and OEM pads. What went in were Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. I torqued the caliper to 25 ft. lbs. and the torque member to 120 ft. lbs. I cleaned the new rotors with isopropyl alcohol until no more "dirt" was seen on the towel, and I rubbed the new pads together for a few seconds to get it scored.
Now the questions: I noticed that both the inner and outer OEM pad had the retaining clip uptop, but the Hawk pad only had one (2 total in box). So then I used the pad with the clip as the outer pad on both side, and the pad w/o it as the inner pad. Since the inner pad didn't have a clip, I simply slid them in with anti-squeal in between the shim and pad. Is this how you guys did it? Did I do anything wrong?
Also, the factory shims seemed a little small on the new pad. All the shims had two clips on the bottom, and one on the top. When I fitted the new pads in, the top clip was not totally in, as it could not fit over the edge completely. Is this safe and OK?
And when I pushed back the caliper piston, I had a small puddle of brake fluid that leaked out, even with paper towel wrapped around the loosened brake fluid reservoir. OK here too?
Lastly, when I took out my passenger side inner pad, I noticed it had an inner shim top of a heavily corroded outer pad shim, could this have caused the warping/shaking of steering wheel?
Next step is to wait til lat night and go bed-in the new pads, but can anyone see anything I did wrong from the preceding? Thanks for the help!
EDIT: forgot to mention how nice it is to have a firm brake pedal again, and no shaking when coming to a stop!
Now the questions: I noticed that both the inner and outer OEM pad had the retaining clip uptop, but the Hawk pad only had one (2 total in box). So then I used the pad with the clip as the outer pad on both side, and the pad w/o it as the inner pad. Since the inner pad didn't have a clip, I simply slid them in with anti-squeal in between the shim and pad. Is this how you guys did it? Did I do anything wrong?
Also, the factory shims seemed a little small on the new pad. All the shims had two clips on the bottom, and one on the top. When I fitted the new pads in, the top clip was not totally in, as it could not fit over the edge completely. Is this safe and OK?
And when I pushed back the caliper piston, I had a small puddle of brake fluid that leaked out, even with paper towel wrapped around the loosened brake fluid reservoir. OK here too?
Lastly, when I took out my passenger side inner pad, I noticed it had an inner shim top of a heavily corroded outer pad shim, could this have caused the warping/shaking of steering wheel?
Next step is to wait til lat night and go bed-in the new pads, but can anyone see anything I did wrong from the preceding? Thanks for the help!
EDIT: forgot to mention how nice it is to have a firm brake pedal again, and no shaking when coming to a stop!
#2
well i can answer atleast one of your questions. as for having the brake fluid spill over, its fine. Since the pads have more surface left on them the piston is pushed in further on both sides causing the fluid levels to rise more then they were when you started. That should be no problem.
#3
How much diffent is the braking with the new pads compared to stock? I have been thinkin about getting the hawk pads but I'm not sure its worth it to replace the pads before the stock ones wear out unless theres a good amount of difference with the hawk pads.
#4
The pads have no significant different feel than the OEM pads, and maybe it'll feel different after I porperly bed them in. The stiffer pedal feel I think is due to the new thick pads, my old pads were about half as thick as the new ones.
#5
Master Cylinder Brace
Do they make a brake master cylinder brace for the I35?
I have on on my 91 300zx. It basically holds the brake master cylinder in place under hard braking.
Apparently, the firewall flexes where the BMC is attached under hard braking.
By preventing that flex, braking is better.
I have on on my 91 300zx. It basically holds the brake master cylinder in place under hard braking.
Apparently, the firewall flexes where the BMC is attached under hard braking.
By preventing that flex, braking is better.
#6
i think you also need one of these...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...67257213QQrdZ1
...it will prevent chassis flex that is caused when you get in your car. That messes up the weight destribution, tires heat up unevenly and it takes 27% more time to cook a bowl of RICE...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NISSA...67257213QQrdZ1
...it will prevent chassis flex that is caused when you get in your car. That messes up the weight destribution, tires heat up unevenly and it takes 27% more time to cook a bowl of RICE...
#9
Originally Posted by n3985
So on a nice Sunday afternoon, I attempted my very first brake job. What came off were warped OEM rotors with 18,xxx miles on them and OEM pads. What went in were Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads. I torqued the caliper to 25 ft. lbs. and the torque member to 120 ft. lbs. I cleaned the new rotors with isopropyl alcohol until no more "dirt" was seen on the towel, and I rubbed the new pads together for a few seconds to get it scored.
Now the questions: I noticed that both the inner and outer OEM pad had the retaining clip uptop, but the Hawk pad only had one (2 total in box). So then I used the pad with the clip as the outer pad on both side, and the pad w/o it as the inner pad. Since the inner pad didn't have a clip, I simply slid them in with anti-squeal in between the shim and pad. Is this how you guys did it? Did I do anything wrong?
Also, the factory shims seemed a little small on the new pad. All the shims had two clips on the bottom, and one on the top. When I fitted the new pads in, the top clip was not totally in, as it could not fit over the edge completely. Is this safe and OK?
And when I pushed back the caliper piston, I had a small puddle of brake fluid that leaked out, even with paper towel wrapped around the loosened brake fluid reservoir. OK here too?
Lastly, when I took out my passenger side inner pad, I noticed it had an inner shim top of a heavily corroded outer pad shim, could this have caused the warping/shaking of steering wheel?
Next step is to wait til lat night and go bed-in the new pads, but can anyone see anything I did wrong from the preceding? Thanks for the help!
EDIT: forgot to mention how nice it is to have a firm brake pedal again, and no shaking when coming to a stop!
Now the questions: I noticed that both the inner and outer OEM pad had the retaining clip uptop, but the Hawk pad only had one (2 total in box). So then I used the pad with the clip as the outer pad on both side, and the pad w/o it as the inner pad. Since the inner pad didn't have a clip, I simply slid them in with anti-squeal in between the shim and pad. Is this how you guys did it? Did I do anything wrong?
Also, the factory shims seemed a little small on the new pad. All the shims had two clips on the bottom, and one on the top. When I fitted the new pads in, the top clip was not totally in, as it could not fit over the edge completely. Is this safe and OK?
And when I pushed back the caliper piston, I had a small puddle of brake fluid that leaked out, even with paper towel wrapped around the loosened brake fluid reservoir. OK here too?
Lastly, when I took out my passenger side inner pad, I noticed it had an inner shim top of a heavily corroded outer pad shim, could this have caused the warping/shaking of steering wheel?
Next step is to wait til lat night and go bed-in the new pads, but can anyone see anything I did wrong from the preceding? Thanks for the help!
EDIT: forgot to mention how nice it is to have a firm brake pedal again, and no shaking when coming to a stop!
i had the same thing happen man, and everything turned out to be okay. the hawks have only one clip but that didn't affect anything as for this shims..i only put one set of shims on the new pads and the stock ones were too small as well but that didnt matter since the piston held them in place real well
id recommend to that you do break in your pads properly
(10 stops from 60mph almost so the abs kicks in) because i didnt and now my break pads are all weird and theres some screetching
good luck on your setup, im glad you are happy with it!
#11
Originally Posted by n3985
I just went from 30-10MPH 10 times and 50-10MPH 5 times on a public road
J/K the road was empty, brakes are bedded in! Smooth braking with firm pedal feel FTW!
J/K the road was empty, brakes are bedded in! Smooth braking with firm pedal feel FTW!
#13
i installed brembo blanks with hawk hps pads and after 1,000 miles, i can say it does not screetch or make noises while breaking. the only thing i notice is when i'm completely stopped and release the brakes and then immediately re-apply them, it makes a slight moaning sound.
#14
i have hawk pads with racing brake rotors. Rotors are great, pads dust and also squeel...well used to. I get a lot of compliments about my braking but its normally from people used to stock braking...i am the biggest car enthusiast in my side of this world...
#15
I've put about 30 mile son the new brakes about now, so far all I can say is SMOOTH braking and a firm pedal!!!!
No squeel, no sound at all, anti-squeal on all the shims did the job.
However, I can say that on my last car, I had a shop put in the HPW pads. after 10,000 miles it started to squeel like a ****! Any braking resulted in metal screeching sound, which only went away with heavy and hard braking.
No squeel, no sound at all, anti-squeal on all the shims did the job.
However, I can say that on my last car, I had a shop put in the HPW pads. after 10,000 miles it started to squeel like a ****! Any braking resulted in metal screeching sound, which only went away with heavy and hard braking.
#16
Originally Posted by n3985
I've put about 30 mile son the new brakes about now, so far all I can say is SMOOTH braking and a firm pedal!!!!
No squeel, no sound at all, anti-squeal on all the shims did the job.
However, I can say that on my last car, I had a shop put in the HPW pads. after 10,000 miles it started to squeel like a ****! Any braking resulted in metal screeching sound, which only went away with heavy and hard braking.
No squeel, no sound at all, anti-squeal on all the shims did the job.
However, I can say that on my last car, I had a shop put in the HPW pads. after 10,000 miles it started to squeel like a ****! Any braking resulted in metal screeching sound, which only went away with heavy and hard braking.
anyway, keep us updated regardless...
#17
Originally Posted by steven88
haha don't get too excited yet....30 miles is only the beginning...my brakes started to squeal about 2 and half weeks after i installed them...and so did shogunsc4's....so don't get too excited yet
But can anyone answer my oringinal questions? Like the missing clips on the HPS pads...etc? Safety issue? Did I do the install wrong at any point?
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markevans999
3rd Generation Maxima (1989-1994)
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09-10-2015 04:29 PM