HOW-TO WORKLOG: LED Loaded Instrument Cluster (+60 LEDs!) BRIGHTEST ORG CLUSTER YET
07-03-2006, 06:17 AM
#46
Originally Posted by MyownNismo
Hey metal if you want I could give you a email to this guy who makes circuit boards. You could give him the info to make them and possibly mass produce them.
Yeah, most def. Hit me up with a PM.
Having this guys info would make mass-production of LED tails a VERY REAL possibility.
07-03-2006, 07:37 AM
#47
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
Yeah, most def. Hit me up with a PM.
Having this guys info would make mass-production of LED tails a VERY REAL possibility.
Having this guys info would make mass-production of LED tails a VERY REAL possibility.
07-03-2006, 11:07 AM
#52
STEP VII - TEMPLATE CUTTING
The next step will be hacking the bejeezus out of the OEM plastic template. Using a dremel cutting wheel and sanding drum, simply cut away as much material as you need to fit the boards. The problem with sanding the plastic, you will find, is that the plastic does not sand so much as the friction of the wheel casues it to melt. So don't expect it to look pretty.
The next step will be hacking the bejeezus out of the OEM plastic template. Using a dremel cutting wheel and sanding drum, simply cut away as much material as you need to fit the boards. The problem with sanding the plastic, you will find, is that the plastic does not sand so much as the friction of the wheel casues it to melt. So don't expect it to look pretty.
07-03-2006, 11:14 AM
#54
STEP VIII - SIGNAL BULB CHANGEOUT
While we're at it, we might as well as swap out those boring old LEDs inside the OEM template. Some of you may have bulbs, so it'd be a bit more involved. (you'll need a resistor). For those fortunate enough to have LEDs, simply heat up the solder on the opposite end, and pull the bulb out. DON'T CUT IT. The OEM bulbs are 3mm, but we might as well as upgrade to a nice 8000MCD 5mm Blue LED. Simply push the new LED through the open holes, and resolder back in.
Now, if you make the mistake of cutting the OEM leds, you will find that you might strip the copper off of the original solder points. Don't fret. If this occurs, simply sand off the silicone cover of the leads (both sides), and solder there. It ain't pretty, but gets the job done. I made this mistake only on the first bulb, I'm trusting you not to make any.
While we're at it, we might as well as swap out those boring old LEDs inside the OEM template. Some of you may have bulbs, so it'd be a bit more involved. (you'll need a resistor). For those fortunate enough to have LEDs, simply heat up the solder on the opposite end, and pull the bulb out. DON'T CUT IT. The OEM bulbs are 3mm, but we might as well as upgrade to a nice 8000MCD 5mm Blue LED. Simply push the new LED through the open holes, and resolder back in.
Now, if you make the mistake of cutting the OEM leds, you will find that you might strip the copper off of the original solder points. Don't fret. If this occurs, simply sand off the silicone cover of the leads (both sides), and solder there. It ain't pretty, but gets the job done. I made this mistake only on the first bulb, I'm trusting you not to make any.
07-03-2006, 11:17 AM
#55
STEP IX - TAPE, TAPE, AND MORE TAPE
Now we're ready to start attaching out templates. You've spent all this time getting up to this point, the last thing you want to do it fry the entire circut board OR the cluster, so do yourself a favor and wrap her up in electrical tape. I figured this one out after I fired my master window switch before perfecting my alternative method to LED-ing the switch.
Now we're ready to start attaching out templates. You've spent all this time getting up to this point, the last thing you want to do it fry the entire circut board OR the cluster, so do yourself a favor and wrap her up in electrical tape. I figured this one out after I fired my master window switch before perfecting my alternative method to LED-ing the switch.
07-03-2006, 11:19 AM
#56
IN IRAQ MAXIMA.ORG-ING :)
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after looking at ur last few pics... wat about the speedometer... woodn't u need to have that adjusted perfectly... my friend did a guage swap on his corolla and it was bout 15 mph off
07-03-2006, 11:20 AM
#57
STEP X - TEMPLATE ATTACHMENT
We're finally rounding the bases now! Ok, the next thing you are going to want to do is use some glue to attach the template to the board. Apply liberally in areas that will see no metal-to-metal contact, or specifically - nowhere that would mitigate electron transfer on the LED or OEM board. Oh, yeah...don't forget to make a (+) and (-) lead to get power to the board!s! Run those wires through the OEM lighting hole.
We're finally rounding the bases now! Ok, the next thing you are going to want to do is use some glue to attach the template to the board. Apply liberally in areas that will see no metal-to-metal contact, or specifically - nowhere that would mitigate electron transfer on the LED or OEM board. Oh, yeah...don't forget to make a (+) and (-) lead to get power to the board!s! Run those wires through the OEM lighting hole.
07-03-2006, 11:24 AM
#58
Originally Posted by KabirUTA13
... ok but wats the purpose of the heat sink and regulator in this project... i got side tracked by jeepiks comment lol
Originally Posted by KabirUTA13
unless ur using the voltage regulator to control the the ... the... arghh brain fart.... shyt BRIGHTNESS... THERE U GO...
Just doing my part to keep them cool.
07-03-2006, 11:26 AM
#59
Originally Posted by KabirUTA13
after looking at ur last few pics... wat about the speedometer... woodn't u need to have that adjusted perfectly... my friend did a guage swap on his corolla and it was bout 15 mph off
07-03-2006, 04:15 PM
#61
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Lakeland, FL
Posts: 1,587
rather than using the regulator and heatsink, you could just use the proper series circuit involving LEDs and a resistor, set up for 20-30mA, and a circuit breaker to keep them in check.
or mount the VR externally on the backlight circuit coming from the dimmer, and if you wanna get real creative, you can probably mount the VR or its heatsink to the center vent behind the dash. i suppose this MIGHT require the fan to be running to keep it cool.
or mount the VR externally on the backlight circuit coming from the dimmer, and if you wanna get real creative, you can probably mount the VR or its heatsink to the center vent behind the dash. i suppose this MIGHT require the fan to be running to keep it cool.
07-03-2006, 05:20 PM
#62
Originally Posted by BewstAdd1ct
rather than using the regulator and heatsink, you could just use the proper series circuit involving LEDs and a resistor, set up for 20-30mA, and a circuit breaker to keep them in check.
07-03-2006, 06:14 PM
#64
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
IT WORKS!!! Sort of. Off of the battery, lol. But all of the boards have been mounted and tested, pics up tonite!!!
07-03-2006, 08:17 PM
#65
STEP XI - WIRING
Alright, time to wire everything up. After pulling the leads of the positive and negative ends through the OEM bulb holes, you will need to solder everything to the voltage regulators. For simplicity, I suggest tying all negative leads together. Additionally, you will want to splice all of the input power lines into a single larger wire so that when it comes time to wire everything, you will only need to deal with two wires. Now, lastly, you will want to tap a single wire off of any OEM bulb point, as we will be using this as the actuator lead for you SPDT relay.
Alright, time to wire everything up. After pulling the leads of the positive and negative ends through the OEM bulb holes, you will need to solder everything to the voltage regulators. For simplicity, I suggest tying all negative leads together. Additionally, you will want to splice all of the input power lines into a single larger wire so that when it comes time to wire everything, you will only need to deal with two wires. Now, lastly, you will want to tap a single wire off of any OEM bulb point, as we will be using this as the actuator lead for you SPDT relay.
07-03-2006, 08:21 PM
#66
And, as always, time to test her out! I'll let the pictures speak for themselves. I have the option of using either the AE cluster gauge overlay, or the original black one. I am going to be using the black one as I prefer the cleaner look of the white.
07-03-2006, 09:06 PM
#70
IN IRAQ MAXIMA.ORG-ING :)
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i 35 electroluminescent mod... out the door...
L.E.D. cluster mod..... here i come... good work there bud.... yea... with all that hard work.... i'll def be paying the price for that...
L.E.D. cluster mod..... here i come... good work there bud.... yea... with all that hard work.... i'll def be paying the price for that...
07-04-2006, 09:06 AM
#75
Metal, it truly is a thing of beauty.....i wish you could have the time to give me this kind of board, but alas, i will settle for my Polarg mod...hehe....again, masterful work.
Good job bro. truly great craftsmanship. Engineers know their ****!...lol
Good job bro. truly great craftsmanship. Engineers know their ****!...lol
07-04-2006, 09:59 AM
#76
Thank, Greg. It would not have been possible without your cluster!
Alright, the glue is setting for the needle LEDs. It's a replicate of what Import Customz sells, only with some extra goodness.
Alright, the glue is setting for the needle LEDs. It's a replicate of what Import Customz sells, only with some extra goodness.
07-04-2006, 09:48 PM
#80
still brewin'
Join Date: May 2005
Location: MA, lost in GA
Posts: 317
Originally Posted by jeepik
no offense to the rest of you guys, they are guages, they dont need to be bright, look at the road and not at the guages ( my vision is not fantastic, but i can see my guages just fine at night)
i completely understand making these for show or for looks, but they have 0 practicality
i completely understand making these for show or for looks, but they have 0 practicality