5.5 gen Manual AC Climate Control LED Mod
5.5 gen Manual AC Climate Control LED Mod
Pics dont even do them justice cuz the LED's are so bright they light up the entire center console from the reflector behind the shifter.

Had the doors switches done as well this was the easier part. The LED's light up the whole top part of the door handle


Had the doors switches done as well this was the easier part. The LED's light up the whole top part of the door handle

Metal I was just curious why you felt your way was better? Seems a simple solder onto the existing board is a bit easier than creating a new circuit and cutting the old one. I'm not an engineer so i could be missing something here. I like the results of both methods was just wondering What your thoughts were on a method versus.
Ah, I knew this question would come up! Alright, well...
(1) Bypassing/removing the OEM LEDs is ntohing short of a nightmare. There is a pinhead worth of solder onto which the new LED attaches and soldering is quite difficult.
(2) The bulbs require a good deal of redjusting just to make them fit using the first method
(3) MANY people here whom have done it the original way hav had their entire switch fail due to the LED being bumped against an errant peice of trim, thereby ripping the one lead of the LED off and tearing the super-thin copper lead on the OEM circutboard
(4) Aiming the bulbs using the first method is an exercise in futility. My method allows for PERFECT aim of the LEDs.
(5) No touching the OEM controls leaves you with all of 0 risk of damaging the sensitive board.
...I'm sure there are others, but these are the main ones. Also, just a pic to compare...here is a pic of Todd's controls being powered off of 12V. Then is a pic of mine. Mine is being powered off of 9V, it's even better under 12V.
You be the judge.


(1) Bypassing/removing the OEM LEDs is ntohing short of a nightmare. There is a pinhead worth of solder onto which the new LED attaches and soldering is quite difficult.
(2) The bulbs require a good deal of redjusting just to make them fit using the first method
(3) MANY people here whom have done it the original way hav had their entire switch fail due to the LED being bumped against an errant peice of trim, thereby ripping the one lead of the LED off and tearing the super-thin copper lead on the OEM circutboard
(4) Aiming the bulbs using the first method is an exercise in futility. My method allows for PERFECT aim of the LEDs.
(5) No touching the OEM controls leaves you with all of 0 risk of damaging the sensitive board.
...I'm sure there are others, but these are the main ones. Also, just a pic to compare...here is a pic of Todd's controls being powered off of 12V. Then is a pic of mine. Mine is being powered off of 9V, it's even better under 12V.
You be the judge.



Originally Posted by SilverMX
Metal I was just curious why you felt your way was better? Seems a simple solder onto the existing board is a bit easier than creating a new circuit and cutting the old one. I'm not an engineer so i could be missing something here. I like the results of both methods was just wondering What your thoughts were on a method versus.
Thanks Metal, I completely agree with you, your method is more pleasing...thats for sure. You might also put up this pic, the results from the first method. Just for comparison.

I am going to give your method a shot though.
Wish me luck.

I am going to give your method a shot though.
Wish me luck.
Originally Posted by Metal Maxima
(1) Bypassing/removing the OEM LEDs is ntohing short of a nightmare. There is a pinhead worth of solder onto which the new LED attaches and soldering is quite difficult.
(2) The bulbs require a good deal of redjusting just to make them fit using the first method
(3) MANY people here whom have done it the original way hav had their entire switch fail due to the LED being bumped against an errant peice of trim, thereby ripping the one lead of the LED off and tearing the super-thin copper lead on the OEM circutboard
(4) Aiming the bulbs using the first method is an exercise in futility. My method allows for PERFECT aim of the LEDs.
(5) No touching the OEM controls leaves you with all of 0 risk of damaging the sensitive board.
(2) The bulbs require a good deal of redjusting just to make them fit using the first method
(3) MANY people here whom have done it the original way hav had their entire switch fail due to the LED being bumped against an errant peice of trim, thereby ripping the one lead of the LED off and tearing the super-thin copper lead on the OEM circutboard
(4) Aiming the bulbs using the first method is an exercise in futility. My method allows for PERFECT aim of the LEDs.
(5) No touching the OEM controls leaves you with all of 0 risk of damaging the sensitive board.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
MikesChevelle
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
7
Mar 2, 2021 11:32 AM
Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
13
Sep 27, 2015 09:53 PM




