UDP Install Instructions
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Posts: 2,039
Seems to me I recall someone posting a link to installation instructions for the UDP on a 5th gen. I can't seem to find it using search and it's not in the FAQ.
If anyone has detailed instructions or knows where they are, I would appreciate it. We could also add it to the FAQ.
thanks.
If anyone has detailed instructions or knows where they are, I would appreciate it. We could also add it to the FAQ.
thanks.
.
Who's your daddy? *Insert my name here* 
GregP's:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
Mine:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
GregP's:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
Mine:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Re: .
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
Who's your daddy? *Insert my name here*
GregP's:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
Mine:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Who's your daddy? *Insert my name here*
GregP's:
http://www.greghome.com/Greg's%20Garage/1999%20Nissan%20Maxima%20SE/Underdrive%20Pulley.htm
Mine:
1) Loosen all belt tension and take off the belts.
2) To take the stock crank pulley off, put the 19(?) socket with breaker bar over the pulley bolt.
3) Place the breaker bar against the control arm of the car.
4) Have someone crank the car for a split second (don't start the car) to break the bolt free.
5) Do all the mumbo jumbo stuff and swap the stock pulley with the UDP.
6) To tighten the bolt, take a hammer and whack the breaker bar on the right side (clockwise). This procedure acts like an "impact" gun.
7) Give the breaker bar about 5-10 good whacks and you should be fine. * Who needs to torque it down to the correct spec anyways? *
8) Tighten belt tensions
9) Laugh at people who actually took their starter off and used a pry bar to stop the flywheel. Get laughed at by the starter people because the crank pulley is not torqued to the correct spec.
10) Done.
If you take your car to a shop, they won't torque the pulley bolt down to the correct spec anyways.
Desert Pearl's addition:
Regarding step #3 above, I actually put my bar above the control arm. There is a subframe type structure right above the control arm. I put my wrench in that area and put a rag under the wrench so it was touching the subframe. Then I ran around and blipped the starter. On the third blip it broke free. These were very short blips because I didn't disconnect the coil to keep it from starting. It was a "tick" on the first try... a "tick" on the second... and a "wrrrr-wrrrr" on the third and I knew it was free.
I wouldn't recommend trying any other way of removing this bolt unless you have an air compressor and an impact wrench. All else is a waste of time... believe me, I spent a lot of time working on it before doing like Kev suggested and using my starter. Once I tried that it was off in a matter of minutes.
I have one more thing to add to step #5. I'd recommend putting some anti-sieze on the crank shaft or inside edge of the new pulley. This will keep them from "corroding". (You know how unlike metals don't like each other!)
Thanks!
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Originally posted by FloMax
Hey Max_Gator,
Could you please let me know your observations once the UDP is on? I want to hear thoughts from someone with a 5spd.
Good luck with the install!
Hey Max_Gator,
Could you please let me know your observations once the UDP is on? I want to hear thoughts from someone with a 5spd.
Good luck with the install!
Madmax2k did some of the first dyno's of 2ks on this board. Stock and with intake + y. I'm really curious what kind of difference the UDP will make.
The question is when will I have time to install it! I may try this weekend.
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Posts: 2,039
Another question:
Does anyone have the shop manual for taking off the belts and replacing them? I read on Greg's site that the procedure is detailed in the shop manual.
I will concede that I am pretty much a novice at this so I want to make certain I have as much detailed instructions as possible before I start . . . since I won't be able to drive the car anywhere!
Does anyone have the shop manual for taking off the belts and replacing them? I read on Greg's site that the procedure is detailed in the shop manual.
I will concede that I am pretty much a novice at this so I want to make certain I have as much detailed instructions as possible before I start . . . since I won't be able to drive the car anywhere!
.
Originally posted by FloMax
Easy for you to say Mr. "I put 300zx brakes on my Maxima myself".
Easy for you to say Mr. "I put 300zx brakes on my Maxima myself".
The belts are really that simple. Slip on, slip off... slip on, slip off... Nothing else to them.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 2,039
Re: .
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
The belts are really that simple. Slip on, slip off... slip on, slip off... Nothing else to them.
The belts are really that simple. Slip on, slip off... slip on, slip off... Nothing else to them.
Re: Re: .
Originally posted by Max_Gator
OK, I guess the question is how do I loosen the tension. I know there is a tensioner but don't know exactly how to go about "loosening." Once I've gotten them loose, replaced the pulley and put new belts on, how do I get them tight? Is the tensioner automatic or do I have to set it to a particular spot/tension?
OK, I guess the question is how do I loosen the tension. I know there is a tensioner but don't know exactly how to go about "loosening." Once I've gotten them loose, replaced the pulley and put new belts on, how do I get them tight? Is the tensioner automatic or do I have to set it to a particular spot/tension?
The power steering tension is a bit trickier. You have to go from the bottom to loosen it (see Greg's site for pictures because it's hard to describe the location). There are two bolts, the first one loosens the second one for tension adjustment. For the second one, you will need to turn the bolt CLOCKWISE to loosen the tension. You'll have to do this for quite some time because it takes forever.
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Posts: 2,039
Re: Re: Re: .
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
For the alternator tensioner, you're have to use a socket to loosen it. Got from the top of the engine valve cover and go left. It should be a gold/silver metal thing all by itself (between the horn and the side of the engine). Turn counter-clockwise to loosen.
The power steering tension is a bit trickier. You have to go from the bottom to loosen it (see Greg's site for pictures because it's hard to describe the location). There are two bolts, the first one loosens the second one for tension adjustment. For the second one, you will need to turn the bolt CLOCKWISE to loosen the tension. You'll have to do this for quite some time because it takes forever.
For the alternator tensioner, you're have to use a socket to loosen it. Got from the top of the engine valve cover and go left. It should be a gold/silver metal thing all by itself (between the horn and the side of the engine). Turn counter-clockwise to loosen.
The power steering tension is a bit trickier. You have to go from the bottom to loosen it (see Greg's site for pictures because it's hard to describe the location). There are two bolts, the first one loosens the second one for tension adjustment. For the second one, you will need to turn the bolt CLOCKWISE to loosen the tension. You'll have to do this for quite some time because it takes forever.
I presume that to tighten the new belts, I just reverse the above procedure, right? As I do the reverse, will the belts automatically increase tension until I stop tightening the respective bolts, or do I have to set the tensioner in a particular place (with particular tension) then tighten the bolt? For either scenario, how much tension is the right amount of tension?
Sorry for all the questions. TIA!
Re: Re: Re: Re: .
Originally posted by Max_Gator
Thanks, Kev, that really helps. See, for us dummies, that sounds somewhat tricky. Now . . . final questions (maybe) . . .
I presume that to tighten the new belts, I just reverse the above procedure, right? As I do the reverse, will the belts automatically increase tension until I stop tightening the respective bolts, or do I have to set the tensioner in a particular place (with particular tension) then tighten the bolt? For either scenario, how much tension is the right amount of tension?
Sorry for all the questions. TIA!
Thanks, Kev, that really helps. See, for us dummies, that sounds somewhat tricky. Now . . . final questions (maybe) . . .
I presume that to tighten the new belts, I just reverse the above procedure, right? As I do the reverse, will the belts automatically increase tension until I stop tightening the respective bolts, or do I have to set the tensioner in a particular place (with particular tension) then tighten the bolt? For either scenario, how much tension is the right amount of tension?
Sorry for all the questions. TIA!
Yes, reverse the procedure (but you might want to loosen the power steering some more). You'll know if your tension is either too loose or too tight because it will SSSSQQQQQEEEEEEAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!
Turbo95Max and I tightened mine until we thought it was tight enough (just estimate and fix it afterwards). No biggie. Good luck with the install and drop me a PM (or post here) if you need anymore help.
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Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: .
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
You're welcome! Feel free to ask all the questions you want.
Yes, reverse the procedure (but you might want to loosen the power steering some more). You'll know if your tension is either too loose or too tight because it will SSSSQQQQQEEEEEEAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!
Turbo95Max and I tightened mine until we thought it was tight enough (just estimate and fix it afterwards). No biggie. Good luck with the install and drop me a PM (or post here) if you need anymore help.
You're welcome! Feel free to ask all the questions you want.
Yes, reverse the procedure (but you might want to loosen the power steering some more). You'll know if your tension is either too loose or too tight because it will SSSSQQQQQEEEEEEAAAAAAALLLLLLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!!
Turbo95Max and I tightened mine until we thought it was tight enough (just estimate and fix it afterwards). No biggie. Good luck with the install and drop me a PM (or post here) if you need anymore help.
No problem.
About the tension, I suggest pushing down on the belts before you do the install. This will give you a good idea of what the tension should be with the UDP on.
BTW, you're quick to reply.
About the tension, I suggest pushing down on the belts before you do the install. This will give you a good idea of what the tension should be with the UDP on.
BTW, you're quick to reply.
Besides, want to get my $$$'s worth when I visit you all. 
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