2002-2003 Fuel Filter Replacement Write Up.
#1
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
2002-2003 Fuel Filter Replacement Write Up.
Tools you'll need to compelte this job.
1) Philips Head Screw Driver
2) Flat Head Screw Driver
3) Socket Wrench / 10mm Socket.
4) Need Nose Pliers
5) Latex Gloves
6) Absorbent Pad to soak up excess fuel.
7) Part Numbers for 2000 - 2003 Nissan Maxima.
2K0 / 2K1: Filter: 16400-2Y922 Seal / O-ring: 17342-01A00
2K2 / 2K3: Filter: 16400-2Y505 Seal / O-ring: 17342-01A00
I ordered mine from Everything Nissan. The filter is $10.49 and the O-ring is $6.76. Total came out to be $22.00 after shipping DHL, I got it in two days.
Link to Everything Nissan: http://www.everythingnissan.com/
MAKE SURE YOUR CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR AWHILE BEFORE DOING THIS REPLACEMENT, ALSO OPEN YOUR GAS DOOR LID TO HELP VENT THE TANK.
Remove back seat and expose the tank top. You'll use the 10mm Socket Wrench to remove these three screws or a phillips head Screw Driver.
After removing the three screws lift straight up on the plate gently, you'll see that it's plugged in. Remove it and set it aside.
Use your needle Nose Pliers to pinch the clips ends and pull toward you on the connection. Place an absorbent rag over the top before unclipping it because fuel will come out. Pull gently not to get fuel everywhere. After removing the connection take off the six screws that hold the plate in place.
Lift up on the plate and set it aside.
Gently pull up on the filter support and be aware of the fuel indicator on the left side. Completely remove this and set it on your absorbent cloth outside of the car.
1) Philips Head Screw Driver
2) Flat Head Screw Driver
3) Socket Wrench / 10mm Socket.
4) Need Nose Pliers
5) Latex Gloves
6) Absorbent Pad to soak up excess fuel.
7) Part Numbers for 2000 - 2003 Nissan Maxima.
2K0 / 2K1: Filter: 16400-2Y922 Seal / O-ring: 17342-01A00
2K2 / 2K3: Filter: 16400-2Y505 Seal / O-ring: 17342-01A00
I ordered mine from Everything Nissan. The filter is $10.49 and the O-ring is $6.76. Total came out to be $22.00 after shipping DHL, I got it in two days.
Link to Everything Nissan: http://www.everythingnissan.com/
MAKE SURE YOUR CAR HAS BEEN SITTING FOR AWHILE BEFORE DOING THIS REPLACEMENT, ALSO OPEN YOUR GAS DOOR LID TO HELP VENT THE TANK.
Remove back seat and expose the tank top. You'll use the 10mm Socket Wrench to remove these three screws or a phillips head Screw Driver.
After removing the three screws lift straight up on the plate gently, you'll see that it's plugged in. Remove it and set it aside.
Use your needle Nose Pliers to pinch the clips ends and pull toward you on the connection. Place an absorbent rag over the top before unclipping it because fuel will come out. Pull gently not to get fuel everywhere. After removing the connection take off the six screws that hold the plate in place.
Lift up on the plate and set it aside.
Gently pull up on the filter support and be aware of the fuel indicator on the left side. Completely remove this and set it on your absorbent cloth outside of the car.
#2
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
In order to get the filter off of the assembly you'll need the Flat Head Screw Driver.
The clips are marked. Use the flat head screwdriver as a wedge while gently pulling down. Once you've gotten the ledge cleared from the tab hold in place with your fingers and repeat on the other side while pulling down. Be careful how much pressure you put on the tabs they will snap. Just exert enough pressure to clear the ledge.
When you've managed to get all the ledges under then gently pull down. It's kind of snug do to the cone. You must be careful because there is a wire that is connected inside. Pull down but don't try to pull it off if you know what I mean.
After it is exposed you'll see the wire connection I was talking about. Unclip it and put it aside.
#3
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
You will unclip the top part off the fuel filter the same way you did the bottom. You do not need to unsrew that "fuse plate" but be extremely careful when pulling it down. It is snug in place but It will come off. You can see how to when you're doing it.
Remove this clip by pushing out the sides and pulling it backwards. Put it aside.
You will remove this by just pulling straight up. Put it aside
This is what you are replacing.
Last edited by Orgullo; 01-03-2023 at 07:35 AM.
#4
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Out with the old in with the new.
I skipped putting it back together. Make sure you re-insert the the plug and the cap that holds it in place. Insert the filter into the top part until you hear the click. Make sure all four sides are connected & feed the wire through. Insert the bottom part and plug it back in to the wire you just fed through. Make sure all four clips are connected. That's that. Re-insert how you took it out.
Can't forget your O-Ring which is on the top of the tank top.
It's old so don't worry about using the screw driver.
Replace with the new one.
Now all you have to do is make sure you re-insert the Fuel Filter.
* Replace the black plate with the six screws.
* Reclip the line on the clip.
* Reconnect the top plates wire. Then Secure the top plate.
Donski
I skipped putting it back together. Make sure you re-insert the the plug and the cap that holds it in place. Insert the filter into the top part until you hear the click. Make sure all four sides are connected & feed the wire through. Insert the bottom part and plug it back in to the wire you just fed through. Make sure all four clips are connected. That's that. Re-insert how you took it out.
Can't forget your O-Ring which is on the top of the tank top.
It's old so don't worry about using the screw driver.
Replace with the new one.
Now all you have to do is make sure you re-insert the Fuel Filter.
* Replace the black plate with the six screws.
* Reclip the line on the clip.
* Reconnect the top plates wire. Then Secure the top plate.
Donski
Last edited by Orgullo; 01-03-2023 at 07:37 AM.
#6
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Damn man you're pest, I was asked to do one for the 5.5. I guess I should have marked one more spot due to you.
Here is the reason why this needs to be replaced.
Here is the reason why this needs to be replaced.
Last edited by Orgullo; 01-03-2023 at 07:38 AM.
#10
Originally Posted by soonerfan
<----- wondering why this is needed when there is another fuel filter write up the thread right under this one.
#12
Originally Posted by LA02MAX
great job on the write-up...it looks pretty difficult, but i'm going to tackle this at 60k. I'll bookmark this thread for future reference.
#14
Originally Posted by pdt447
Where did you get the filter kit and what was the cost? I assume that this is dealer only?
And no I won't tell you who he is and how to contact him.
#18
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Originally Posted by HotshotVQ35
nice writeup. whats the recommended mileage to do this?
#19
Originally Posted by Orgullo
A few people recommend doing this maintenance every 30,000 miles. That also depends on what kind of petro your putting in your car. If you stick to the 97 then 30K should be fine.
#25
Originally Posted by MacGarnicle
how similar is this job for the 00/01
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=314172
#32
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Originally Posted by jeepik
any noticable power gains or loses
or maybe an improvement in gas milage???
or maybe an improvement in gas milage???
As far as gas milage I just filled up and have to see.
Power gains, the throttle is much more responsive and I don't have any hesitation or drowning out before she kicks in. Awesome... I think it's definitely worth the maintenance.
#34
When using the screwdriver to undo the clips, did you push the male clip in or use the screwdriver as a wedge to separate the male clip from the female opening?
How "brittle" is the plastic? I've had issues in the past breaking these types of clips on sensors...just want to make sure I understand the technique. From your pictures, it appears you just pull the female part back with the screwdriver, slightly, to undo the male clip on the filter itself. Allowing it to slide past the female opening on the housing.
How "brittle" is the plastic? I've had issues in the past breaking these types of clips on sensors...just want to make sure I understand the technique. From your pictures, it appears you just pull the female part back with the screwdriver, slightly, to undo the male clip on the filter itself. Allowing it to slide past the female opening on the housing.
#35
Originally Posted by Orgullo
A few people recommend doing this maintenance every 30,000 miles. That also depends on what kind of petro your putting in your car. If you stick to the 97 then 30K should be fine.
i think nissan recommended 100K for returnless filters, in initially it was lifetime, from what im told.
but again, just because it looks dirty, doesnt mean it needs it be changed.
#36
what does type of gas have to do with anything? the octane level has nothing to do with how often you need to change the filter.
nissan still claims this is a non-maintenance item. that might just be because they dont want to deal with the pain of changing it.
nissan still claims this is a non-maintenance item. that might just be because they dont want to deal with the pain of changing it.
#37
Originally Posted by soonerfan
what does type of gas have to do with anything? the octane level has nothing to do with how often you need to change the filter.
nissan still claims this is a non-maintenance item. that might just be because they dont want to deal with the pain of changing it.
nissan still claims this is a non-maintenance item. that might just be because they dont want to deal with the pain of changing it.
cleanliness of the gas
regular has more particles in it then premium does, therefore it would clog the filter up quicker
#38
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Originally Posted by 2002 Maxima SE
When using the screwdriver to undo the clips, did you push the male clip in or use the screwdriver as a wedge to separate the male clip from the female opening?
How "brittle" is the plastic? I've had issues in the past breaking these types of clips on sensors...just want to make sure I understand the technique. From your pictures, it appears you just pull the female part back with the screwdriver, slightly, to undo the male clip on the filter itself. Allowing it to slide past the female opening on the housing.
How "brittle" is the plastic? I've had issues in the past breaking these types of clips on sensors...just want to make sure I understand the technique. From your pictures, it appears you just pull the female part back with the screwdriver, slightly, to undo the male clip on the filter itself. Allowing it to slide past the female opening on the housing.
#39
$$ Ballin on a Budget $$
Thread Starter
iTrader: (47)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: North FL.
Posts: 2,189
Regardless of what Nissan says the pics speak a thousand words.
The acceleration, overall response and idleling all run a lot smoother due to the change. If this maintenance doesn't seem worth it to you then by all means listen to what Nissan has to say.
The acceleration, overall response and idleling all run a lot smoother due to the change. If this maintenance doesn't seem worth it to you then by all means listen to what Nissan has to say.
#40
Originally Posted by jeepik
it has EVERYTHING to do with it,
cleanliness of the gas
regular has more particles in it then premium does, therefore it would clog the filter up quicker
cleanliness of the gas
regular has more particles in it then premium does, therefore it would clog the filter up quicker
Do you have any evidence to back up your claim that "regular has more particles in it then premium does"? If so, I'd be interested in seeing it.