what is the spark plug gap for autolite double platinum plugs for a 2003 maxima se?

 

Help, my car won't start and when it does, it won't stay on. Service Engine Soon light came on. OBD-II list 3 codes P0100, P0134, P0505. I started my car and everything was normal, went to move it and car stalled out on me (hadn't driven my car in almost 3 months) when I went to restart it, it just cranked over. I was able to start it by gasing it but if I let of the gas it shuts off. I checked the MAF(P0100) and its fine. P0134(oxygen sensor) don't know how this sensor wouldn't allow my car to start. So that leaves me with P0505. I have 01 Max 20th Anniv with 5sp. Any help appriciated.

Thanks
Geovanny

 

P0505 is the IACV (Idle Air Control Valve)
P0134 is an oxygen sensor, sensor 1 bank 2

The P0505 is your won't stay running problem. Take care of this and see if the other codes go away.

 

Thanks for the reply. Where is the iacv? and is putting in a used one a bad idea? new one at Autozone is $210

 

.044 i believe


The IACV is right on your intake hose. It should be right before the air filter

 

My 2000 GXE has had a small coolant leak since I got it about 5 months ago. I have only had to add a small amount of coolant two times since I got it, so it is a pretty slow leak. Today while I was checking fluid levels, I happened to see some coolant on the ground and got under it to see if I could find where it was coming from. I could see that it was dripping from around the front edge of the oil pan. Where do you think it is likely leaking from, if it is dripping from the front edge of the oil pan?

 

VQ plug gap is 43 thou, though I wouldn't use anything other than NGK.

Do what? The IACV is bolted to the TB, nowhere near the air filter. I would assume you're talking about the MAF, but being before the air filter is also completely wrong.

Water pump.

 

Yup, I'd say water pump as well. I bet that's a bit of a job on these cars eh?

 

Not really, no. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibfs1...w&feature=plcp

 

Good video, thanks for the link. It looks like I probably have one bad o-ring, since I have no coolant in my oil. Its been leaking for at least the last 5 months, how much time do I have before complete failure, or will I be ok just topping off the coolant when it needs it?

 

Ok guys 2 questions. When I drive my max (02 SE) and when I accelerate to about 1800 Rpm to 2000 Rpm I hear this little rattle, and then it goes away. Then when I turn off the car it does a rattle when it turns off. Im thinking that the inside of the cat is starting to get old and just vibrating inside. 2nd question is: When i turn the heat on and drive and just turn the steering wheel a lil bit to the right or to the right I hear this noise kinda like a fan rubbing on plastic coming from the glovebox area and when I straighten the wheel out it still does it a lil. I was thinking that it might be the cabin air filter....But atm its like 24 in north carolina and i hate hearing the noise so i dont run the heat. Please help me with these 2 questions,

 

It should last quite a while, just keep a close eye on the coolant level.

There's a TSB out on the rear converter heatshield making noise, get under there and take a look.

Is it just when you're driving and turn, or does it also happen when you're at a stand still? Most likely there's just something caught in the blower motor, and it's shifting around when you're turning. Pull the blower motor out, see what you find.

 

No its just when I turn right it does it pretty severely and then it does when straighten out and dies out once i stop. And youre prolly gonna kill me for this but wtf is a tsb. lol

 

Technical Service Bulletin.

 

So I need rocker arms and I am wondering where I can get some good ones

 

Jegs and Summit both list some good aftermarket rocker arms, just not for the VQ.

Why do you think you need rocker arms?

 

I have this noise coming from the front of my engine it's not timing related and it's right under my valve cover

 

Hey guys I'm new to this forum and I have a question,I have a 03 max and I'm currently looking for a engine mine has 190,000 it runs hard but I want a lower mileage engine,can I get a vq35de from a 2004 350z and put it on my max,there the same engines as far as I can see the only thing I see fifteenth is the intake so is it possible to put the 350z engine in the max,any suggestions will be helpful

 

If there's nothing wrong with your engine, why replace it?

Also I don't think a 350Z engine will fit due to intake plenum fitment, and possibly the orientation of the engine.

 

Nope not going to fit big difference between RWD and FWD blocks.

 

^^ That's what I thought, thanks for the confirm

 

They're right, blocks mounting points are different.

As far as the mileage, I used to have that same mentality when my 4th gen had 180k. It now has 245k, and I'm not even thinking about it anymore.

 

I got a question guys! i hve a 2000 Maxima GLE and i just got into the car game. my rims are 16 and i wanted to know if i have to do something specific if i wanted to put 19 inch rims on my car. Can i do that or do i hve to do something before.

 

Exactly. My beater is at ~335k on the original engine now, wouldn't think about swapping out for a lower mileage until this one breaks down.

 

Nope, nothing needs to be done to the car. Make sure the lug pattern and offset of the 19's are appropriate, and the tire size maintains as close to original overall diameter as possible.

 

Hey members,

I got some good help here a few months ago re: MAF sensor. I ended up replacing my original MAF with a NAPA remanufactured MAF for 2001 (I have a 2002). I did this because another member had posted satisfactory results with this same fix and the NAPA model has the resistor and looked pretty much identical to the actual 2002 OEM sensor.

Fast forward, my Max has been running pretty well overall, good mileage. The CEL came on a couple of times over the months, but usually when the temperature changed suddenly, and then went off in a day or so. The car still continued to run fine.

Currently, I'm having a different problem. I'm pulling the above 3 codes. When I start the car it idles erratically somewhere between 500-1100 RPM's for a minute or so, then dies. Sometimes, it won't start, but I am usually able to get it going.

My code tester and my mechanically inclined neighbor seem to think it's the MAF again. His opinion, is to buy the OEM 2002 MAF sensor, period. I'm beginning to think that's what I should do. I'm aware of the simple fix, and getting the part from DaveB, and soldering in the resistor, etc, but am thinking if I can get a 12 month 12000 mile warranty on a new dealer part might be worth it. I travel alot in business and would like to get another 6 months to a year of relatively smooth running vehicle. (I know there is no guarantee that's going to happen.)

Some further info: I just went over the 200K mark. The tranny was recently checked and given a thumbs up from a respected transmission shop that we've dealt with for years. Engine seems to be good. My only other concerns are, that I've never replaced the cat convertor or pre-cats, or any O2 sensors.

Is there a possibility that these might be part of the problem. I hate to spend 400+ plus for an OEM MAF and find out that doesn't solve the problem....

Any help or opinions would be greatly appreciated. Also, if there is another area that this question could be posted, please let me know. Thanks.

 

I installed a new IACV and the car now starts but once the car warms up the idle is too low and feels like its going to shut off. It already did twice. I've seen that a relearn has to be done. How do I do it? And is it necessary to do a TPS relearn aslo? Almost forgot, the only code that comes up now is P0505

 

Hey everyone,

I posted last week regarding my 01 Max that I just picked up. I just had the drain and refill done by Nissan today. I have done a search with no results. My question is, how long would it take for the new fluid to run through the trans and shifts get a little smoother? I am not sure when it was last changed but it wasn't the proper color, though it was the proper level. The only thing I was concerned about was the shifting between 1st and 2nd as there is a slight jerk but nothing major. Thanks for any input!

AJ

 

Should be nearly immediate. If fluid didn't change the behavior much, it's probably something else causing the jerk.

 

Anybody have any guesses on this?

 

thank you for the answer i think i will stay with the engine thats on the car do you have any suggestions on what add ons would go really nice with it???

 

well its making a noise from the valves i think it sounds like when you put cheap gas on it or is off timing knock&pinging i put 93 on it all the time!!! just got it repainted so im starting to get it nice

 

Might anyone have any suggestions as to what else may be the cause? Perhaps the magnets and filter needs cleaning? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

AJ

 

This would go really nice with your car:

http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...tion-sale.html

 

If your filter is clogged it could prevent fluid from being properly circulated. This happened to, effectively causing the fluid to overheat, and thus my shifts were all wonky during long distance drives. I don't think the filter gets cleaned, it gets replaced.

 

+1

 

I need both of my front axles replaced. I Would describe myself as a pretty aggressive driver. I tried looking for "Performance axles" on Google but no luck. I Have a 2000 gle with 17 inch G35 rims... Any suggestions?

 

I got a p0021 light on and It was due to a low oil level 2.5 quarts when i drained so i ran some synthetic and a k&n filter and its doing good now but light is still on so I think that the sensor got sludge in it....the only thing i dont know is where the sensor is or what its called is it on the drivers side of the engine? cuz im not sure

 

The check engine light doesn't alway go off after you fix a problem, you have to reset the ECU.

But the P0021 code has nothing to do with the oil. The code is for the IVT control solenoid valve, bank 2. IVT = Intale Valve Timing. If you have a IVT problem, the car will be in "Fail Safe" mode or as many people call it, limp mode. If your car is running normal, you may have gotten the code wrong.

 

Thanks again for the reply! I am going to get another transmission fluid change next month being that it hasn't been done in a while. When I do I will have them replace the filter to see if that helps.

Thanks
AJ