nestorlugo

iTrader: (11)

Yes get ndsll and be happy with all it's features... Download the fsm(factory service manual) and a tranny swap shouldn't be that difficult if theirs craps out....

dcam0326

Hey guys, SES came on today. After running the codes I'm showing that all my precat o2 sensors (banks 1&2 sensors 1&2) are throwing codes. I'm running an o2 Sim that appears to be fine so this seems strange. Is there some sort of fuse that controls these? Could it be related to cold weather (it was around -7 this morning)? Thanks in advance.

D.Stillwell

My right bank (rear) just threw a random code recently, but the funny thing is I have no rear precat, just Ypipe and anti fouler. I erased the code and have never seen it again. I think it may be temp related.

PunkGuy

I've seen different answers to the question to whether or not to "bleed" from the caliper when pushing the piston back in when doing brakes.

Eric the Car Guy says always says to attach a hose to bleeder, and "crimp" the brake line when pushing piston back in, but the service manual doesn't mention anything about doing that, just:

1. Remove master cylinder reservoir cap.
6. When installing new pads, push piston into cylinder body by
gently turning piston clockwise, as shown.
Carefully monitor brake fluid level because brake fluid will
return to reservoir when pushing back piston.

I didn't bother doing the "bleeding" when doing my front brakes, but wanted to make sure before doing the rear.

THanks

krazyguy0427

Do I need a heater resistor simulator as well as a dual output o2 sim to get rid of the ses for my secondary o2's? Or does the o2 sim take care of it all since the sensors will still be plugged in?

I have cattman headers with my primary o2's extended.

Also curious if anti foulers would be a preferred method. My first thought was to avoid having additional bungs put in the headers but I am new to this.

It's that time of year again. Gotta love emissions...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I've done a bunch of brake jobs and I have never bled the brakes just because I pushed the pistons back in. You bleed brakes to get air out. Pushing the piston back in does not cause air to get into the brake fluid.

The only thing I can think of for opening the bleeder would be to keep the master cylinder reservoir from overflowing.

irishmasshole

Hi everyone,

I have a 2004 Infiniti I35 with almost 156K miles on it.

Recently, I started blowing my directional fuse while taking left turns. Hazards work fine. I traced the wires but couldn't find a bad ground, nor was there any corrosion.

I've blown through over 15 fuses just trying to get my son to school and get my butt to work.

I'm running head first into a brick wall trying to get this solved, please help.

Thanks so much,

IrishMasshole

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Did you do any rewiring like the fog light mod, corner light mod?

Try replacing both turn signal bulbs

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I respectfully have to disagree with you on your answer.

The hazard flashers work OK and these are the same light bulbs used by the regular turns signals. I don't think changing light bulbs would accomplish anything.

Since the light bulbs are used by both the turn signals and the hazard flasher, this rules out the light bulbs, their housings and the wires going to them that are not under the dash.

I doubt if it is a wiring problem as a shorted wire will usually blow the fuse every time. So the only thing left is the turn signal switch itself.

sparky403

Live in SF and think I had both my door lock and ignition tampered with - both are stuck - frozen.


So Far:


- I had the dealer make a key from the title ( a"dumb key" - no chip) - No effect
- put 100% acetone in the locks - no effect (to dissolve any superglue or other substance)

- Tried hitting the out side of the locks with a hammer
- tried turning the stearing wheel and jiggling
- have had others try too.


At this point I have to replace both the door and ignition locks. Again My car is a manual 5 - speed not an automatic.


My question: a Manual ignition lock assembly is different from an automatic one....(in order to lock the automatic shifter). The manual has no such lock.


However, I am trying to do this on a limited budget and of course the only igninition switches I can find are automatic.


I am wondering if the automatic ignition assembly would work on a manual car or if there were any modifications I could make that would allow it to work?


Thanks much.

5GAEMAX

I picked up a 2003 SE, 6 speed. How do I know if I got a titanium or meridian model? It has leather, bose audio, heated steering wheel and chrome door sills.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

It's possible to get a Ti Edition w/Meridian package.

Meridian is heated seats/mirrors, Ti would have chrome door sills and fancy colored wheels and Ti stitching in the gear shifter and steering wheel. A real Ti would be Polished Titanium, paint code WV2.


http://nissannews.com/en-US/nissan/u...xima-press-kit

dafinsfan

I have a 2002 Maxima, for no apparent reason my steering wheel moves by itself, it happens while at idle, the thing kind of jerks to the right and comes back to center, looks as if it's possessed or something, while at idle when I turn the steering wheel to either direction, it feels very loose for a second and then normal, then loose again and then tighter. The fluid was discolored and I replaced it with fresh fluid, did not fix the issue. While it drives at times it goes straight, completely normal and then for no reason it wants to turn right, while I'm turning I have to fight it back or if not the car will turn way too sharp. Any help or ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance for your help.

george__

iTrader: (1)

^
check your alignment bro

5GAEMAX

My 03 SE I just picked up has a few issues that I hope are not major or costly.

1. The gas gauge fluctuates a lot below half tank. If I get a little heavy on the gas pedal, the needle would basically drop down to empty and when I let off it will go back to normal. It fluctuates even more at about 1/4 tank. Not sure if the sending unit, fuel leveler, or gauge cluster is bad.

2. My temp gauge does not work either. It will get off the resting needle and that's about it. Won't go up to normal operating temps.

3. Radio doesn't work either. Checked fuses, everything is fine. Maybe the head unit is bad All together.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

As you can imagine, the gas sloshes around in the tank as the car moves. The less gas you have in the tank, the more the gas can slosh around. The float on the sending unit in the gas tank is going to move with the changes. So this stuff is normal. Not normal is the gauge reacting so quickly. I don't know for certain, but I think the dash gauge is the problem. And the fuel leveler - I don't know what that is.

You need to find out if the thermostat is stuck open or if it is working. After you have driven the car for 10 minutes or so to get the engine up to operating temperature, connect an OBD code reader to the car that can report the engine coolant temperature. Cheap code readers can't do this.

If the thermostat is working, the engine temperature will be between 180º F and 200º F. If the coolant temperature is in the 180 - 200 range, then you have a bad dash gauge. If the coolant temperature is a lot lower, the thermostat is bad.

It is possible the radio head unit is completely dead. They don't usually doesn't go completely dead, but they can. Does anything work on it, such as the display or CD? Maybe it is not plugged in. Maybe the fuse is bad. Did you check the fuse with an ohmmeter or swap it? The radio fuse is a 10 amp fuse in the very top left corner of the fuse panel.

For further diagnosing, we need to know if the radio is a Bose radio or not.

5GAEMAX

The gas gauge reacts instantaneously especially when it gets under half. I understand the gas moves a lot but I have never seen a gas needle gauge react so quickly to gas moving from one end of the tank to another upon acceleration and deceleration. As far as the fuel leveler, I mean to say what you said, the float on the sending unit. Just couldn't come to mind what it was called.

As for the temp gauge, I believe it is the gauge itself. I get hot air after driving for a bit so I'm assuming the thermostat is fine. But like you said a good obd reader/scanner can confirm that.

And for the radio. Nothing works, cd, tape, radio, nothing. The only thing that does is the lights that light up the buttons. On my way home tonight though, the display did pop up for a brief second but went away and did not come back on. It is a Bose audio. Fuses checked out good, nothing blown and correct fuse size.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

You could very well be correct. Double checking before replacing something is always a good thing. If you want to try another check besides the OBD reader, there is a self diagnostic you can run on the instrument panel. what it will do is make the needles on the gauges point to a certain spot among other things. Be advised that it takes a little bit of time for the needles to get in position. Go to page 123 in the link below:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/2003/EL.pdf

Bose units are nice but they don't last as long as other brands. You can go buy a used head unit, but it is also over a dozen years old and who knows how long it will last. Replacing it with an aftermarket radio is probably the best route. But when you do this, you will also need adaptors for the faceplate, wire harness and antenna.

mrquest

Would anybody kno where i can get a exhaust manifold for a good price oem specifically but also if there is a good aftermarket one that i could settle for. ..?

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ighlight=bosal

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ighlight=bosal

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...l?highlight=vs.

Todd1225

I had an issue about 6 months ago with my 2000 Maxima just randomly going dead. It would go dead quick, no sputtering, etc but I still had electrical power. I could start the car back up immediately and it would run fine. I was suggested to replace the camshaft sensor, so I grabbed an OEM one from Nissan...problem solved.

Just last week I was cruising at about 45mph and the car started jerking pretty violently for about 2-3 seconds. It didn't go dead so I was able to coast into a parking lot. No problems for a few days then it went dead twice on me just like before.

I pulled the camshaft sensor out and noticed it had a little oil on it...the part that sticks in to the side of the motor, no just on top but right at the little metal "prong" so to speak. I cleaned it off and so far so good.

Did another one go dead? Could it be something else causing the same symptom?....and is the oil normal (if not what could cause that). It stinks because I can't drive the car anywhere but for short errands, don't wanna stall on the interstate :-(

Thanks for any assistance!

WALK

Just replaced the Alternator on my 2001 Nissan Maxima. Noticed there was a lot of cracks on the belt so I decided to replace that also. The new one I installed is a Dayco after installation I started the car and it was squealing like crazy. At first I thought it may be a tension issue. I sprayed the belt with water while the vehicle was running and the noise went away. Next I eyeballed the alignment of all of my pulleys, doesn't seem to be misaligned [Dont have any laser pointers] if it is misaligned its less than a 1".

This is the 3.0L for anyone that specializes in Nissan vehicles.

Thanks!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Nissan uses a 6 rib belt that is 20 mm wide and has a circumference of 1,100 mm (43.5 inches). According to Dayco, you should have installed their belt # 5060436.

Then there is the tension. A new belt should be adjusted so that the belt deflection between the crankshaft pulley and the a/c compressor pulley is .14 to .16 inch.

These cars are starting to experience failing crankshaft pulleys where the actual pulley is slipping and working its way off of the harmonic balancer. You should look for the pulley wobbling and/or being very close to the car body.

If all of the above conditions are met, I don't know why it would squeak. You could try playing with the tension, either loosening or tightening the belt.

dixiedarlin

I have an 04. It's pulling these codes:
2135
0123
0223
1122

I have replaced the throttle body and it ran worse. The car is bucking at 30mph or will hesitate and then allow me to pick up speed. Any clue?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The service manual says:

P0123 - Throttle position sensor 2 circuit high input. An excessively high voltage from the TP sensor 2 is sent to ECM. Possible cause: Electric throttle control actuator (TP sensor 2)

P0223 - Throttle position sensor 1 circuit high input. An excessively high voltage from the TP sensor 1 is sent to ECM. Possible cause: Electric throttle control actuator (TP sensor 1)

P1122 - Electric throttle control performance problem. Electric throttle control function does not operate properly. Possible cause: Electric throttle control actuator

P2135 - Throttle position sensor circuit range/performance problem. Rationally incorrect voltage is sent to ECM compared with the signals from TP sensor 1 and TP sensor 2. Possible cause: Electric throttle control actuator (TP sensor 1 and 2)

It appears that the Throttle Control Actuator that contains Throttle Position Sensors 1 and 2 is bad. All the codes point to that. When you replaced the throttle body, did you get the actuator with the sensors?

Comatose

Hey guys, I signed up here ages ago but never really became hugely involved. But now I need help.

The last few days, my gear shift has occasionally been stuck. Usually I would pull the hand brake, take my foot off the brake, then put my foot back on, release the handbreak and try again and it would work next time. But tonight it didn't. No matter how many times I tried, it wouldn't shift, and I ended up using the shift lock release.

I got home and looked into it, and read about how the safety feature makes it so you can't normally take it out of park if the brake lights aren't on (is both good because it informs be that they aren't working, but bad as it doesn't rely on the brake itself, which functions fine.) Sure enough, I went out and put my foot on the brake, and the lights weren't coming on. In the hour or so I was at McDonalds, the brake lights carked it.

I am certain it is the brake light switch that is the issue and plan on replacing it tomorrow, but wanted to get some thoughts on the situation. Is it most likely the Brake Light Switch, or could it be something else? The car has not had any big damage since I got it (worst being when I accidentally scraped the side against a concrete pillar four months ago), and the only thing different I had been doing when the issue started was getting it up and down on the jack a few times whilst working on the wheels. Is there anything else that could be the issue? Cheers!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The brake lights do have to be working as you found out. There is a relay that gets its power from the brake light fuse.

Before you buy a new switch, you should check 2 things:

1) the fuse for the brake lights. It is fuse # 2, a 15 amp fuse. It is in the top row of fuses, 2nd from the left end. If you have the fuse decal, it is called "STOP LAMP".

2) the rubber bumper that presses on the stop lamp switch to operate it. These plastic bumpers dry out and then fall apart, leaving nothing to operate the switch.

http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...ht-switch.html

In the above link, scroll down to post # 4. The last photo shows the switches and the plastic bumpers.

If you do need to replace the switch, post # 8 shows you which one it is and tells you how to remove the switch.

Comatose

Cheers! I checked the fuse and that was intact. Before attempting to go to Autobarn to get the part, which I would have had to borrow money for, I jiggled the wiring going into the Brake Light Switch, and sure enough it worked. I think the clip might be dodgy that holds the wiring in.

Tested the brake lights about twenty times and was working every time, so I will keep using the current one and replace it when I get paid next!
Thanks again!

Bossmanreuben

Have you guys ever heard of this problem? Anytime I make really quick sharp left turns or u-turns my car starts jerking and the rpms bounce back and forth and sometimes I'll stall out. Another problem I have is when I drive at highway speeds around 70~ my car will make a thunk and the rpm side of my speedometer will match my current speed so it looks like I'm constantly driving at 4k rpms and when I let go of the gas it will make a jerking motion.

txfromwi

Hi,

I have been working on this for quite a while.

2002 Maxima GLE, 163K miles, original owner

Experiencing a whole vehicle shudder that occurs at something like 6-8 cycles per second and is present at all speeds, although most notable at 30 mph +-. The frequency of the shudder is not related to mph. On glass smooth roads it goes away, but otherwise it is a constant companion. Steering wheel is NOT shuddering - it's a whole body thing.

Have had this for probably a few years as my wife did not notice it and I (used to) drive it infrequently. It is now my daily driver so I notice it continuously, plus it is worse now.

So far I have:
Replaced tires (Michelin replaced with Michelin)
Had the balance checked and rechecked, and rechecked
Had the rims checked and rechecked, and rechecked
Rotated several times.

I have personally completed the following work - it's an easy car to work on!
New rear shock/strut assy's (twice, with different brands). Not EOM.
New front shock/strut assy's. Not OEM.
New axles - both sides. Not OEM
New motor mounts, all 4. OEM
New rotors, all 4. OEM
New brake pads all 4. OEM
New wheel bearings, all 4. OEM
New tie rod ends, both. OEM They weren't needed but I damaged one on the removal using that dang tie-rod end removal tool - just whang on the nuckle - works great.



and although not related:
New starter, OEM
New alternator. Not OEM
New right rear caliper. OEM

Have checked the small remaining motor "bushings" and all front and rear suspension type bushings, control arms etc and all seem fine.

Except that the rear trailing arm bushings can be moved by my working them with a 12" prybar. They do not appear to have ever leaked and are not leaking now.
How stiff should these be with 163K miles?
There are no OEM rear trailing arm bushings without replacing the entire axle at $1000 for the part, and the aftermarket bushings are reported to be stiff and increase ride harshness, plus the install appears to be a serious challenge requiring removing the axle anyway. Either way I am not terribly interested in attacking this project unless it is clearly the problem.

With all this work the shudder remains unchanged.

Any thoughts?

Thanks,

Dan

zclipse

'02 Max SE 130K standard

Starting a few months ago, my car began to develop issues which progressively got worse:

- Exhaust smoke at cold startup. Looks white to me, but the coolant level never changes. It clearly must be blue, since I know the engine burns oil.
- Engine stalls when not applying gas.
- Engine hesitates and you can feel a loss of acceleration for a brief moment, probably same issue as above.

I changed the plugs: https://puu.sh/hAkMT/76a11e5658.jpg I've had the car a couple years...who knows when these were last changed!

Everything was working as it should again. No smoke. No stalling. No issues at all...until I got misfires. I traced it to a particular coil, which I replaced, and everything was fine again.

Then the stalling and hesitation came back. I swapped the plugs and coils around from cylinders 2,4,6 and the issues went away. Few days later, they came back again and once again, I moved some coils around (not spark plugs this time) and the issues were gone. This has happened 5 times or so. No codes, perm or pending.

Some notes on the stalling and hesitation: what happens is that the engine will be running as usual until suddenly the rpms will drop. If this occurs at idle rpms, the engine will stall. At ~1500, the rpms will dip to ~400 for a moment and go back up. Also, these symptoms are persistent. They're not present one day and gone the next, they also do not appear mid-trip. Once the engine is started, it's either happening or it's not. As soon as I move some coils around, the issue instantly goes away.

Both banks LTFT are around -10%, assuming my Torque app is accurate. I've noticed that when this rpm-dropping symptom occurs, STFT's will change from whatever they are to 0 and a few moments later when rpms stabilize, STFTs will return back to something else. (Maybe the ECU is cutting the fuel too much for a moment...but why would moving coils fix this? How would I even confirm it..?)

I'm really not kidding about swapping the coils. That's all I do and the issue goes away for a while... What the heck is going on?

I may not know much, but I have tools and the internet, so if someone has a direction they could point me to, I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

After looking at the photo of the old spark plugs - Holy cow dung, Batman!

In that photo, the center one is dry like it ran with an extremely rich fuel mixture, while the other 2 are wet.

You changed the spark plugs, but did you put in the standard type plug? You should put in a hotter plug. How clean/fouled were the plugs when you swapped them around?

Have you ever done a compression test on that engine? I think you should.
185 psi is the normal, 142 psi is the minimum and all the cylinders should be within 14 psi of each other.

White smoke is not always water/coolant. If a piston has a cracked oil ring, you will get white smoke from that, most noticeable when the engine has been idling and then you rev it.

zclipse

I put in standard, AFAIK. Double platinum Autolite APP5325.

As of today: https://puu.sh/hNl0F/e4ab84cca3.jpg this is cylinder 2. (In the previous image, from left to right, they're cylinders 2, 4, 6. These were installed May 3.

After doing some research of spark plugs and what it means for them to be wet, I came to the same conclusion. I probably need new valve seals or something. However, such a repair would exceed the value of the car...so I'm not quite sure what to do. Compressions tests are like $150, from what I've seen? Haven't actually called anyone yet.

Plus in that image I just posted, you clearly see a piece of metal. I was getting misfires on cylinder 2 and upon investigating it, I saw that. So even if the valve seals were replaced, there's something even worse going on it would seem.

Also as of today, moving stuff around no longer changes anything. I suspect it has nothing to do with the coils, but rather the spark plugs. Oil obviously makes it harder for the plugs to do their thing...maybe some coils do better than others, so when I move them around, it's enough to compensate. But now the plugs are too fouled for that to work. Just my theory.

I did however confirm once again my observations on the fuel trims in relation to the engine hesitation. LTFT stays at around 10% and while STFTs are -22% (max negative value I can detect) it runs as it should. However, STFTs will eventually level out to 0%, during which the engine shows the hesitation. Video: (constant throttle being applied the entire time, except to prevent it from stalling)

Not that it matters, I've kinda lost all hope since discovering metal shavings in the cylinders. =/

Thanks for the advice though!

bartZ32tt

iTrader: (1)

I just recently bought my 5.5 gen. I am mechanically inclined, but would like to get some insight before I "tear into" this one issue: fuel door won't latch shut. The plastic "retaining pin" that keeps the fuel door shut is fully recessed after I pressed the fuel door release button. I've tried a few things to get it to come back out with no luck. Any suggestions? Not sure if this is spring-loaded or what.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Metal shavings definitely not good. That engine is on its way to the great junkyard in the sky. Sorry to hear they.

Miscellaneous comments. But they all kind of relate to the fact that you are willing to work on your car. Your response to the compression check makes me think otherwise.

You can buy a decent, basic compression tester for like $25. So taking the car to a mechanic won't not be necessary and also a lot less expensive.

Depending on how much you like the car and how much money you are willing to spend, you can get an entire used engine for $500 - 600. That's just the engine. It needs to be installed. A mechanic shop will charge a lot, probably at least as much as the engine, probably more.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Yes, that the thing is spring loaded.

For a 2002, it is Nissan part # 78827-5L300, price about $20.
For a 2003, it is Nissan part # 78850-5Y700, price about $145 !!!!!

But it is a pita to get to. You have to take the rear bumper cover off.

bartZ32tt

iTrader: (1)

Thanks - that helps! Except it appears that the $20 one is actually for 5th gens; the $145 one is for 5.5 gens (and 6th gens)
Courtesy Nissan's cost is $90, but I found one on ebay for $45 - I think I'll just get that. Why does the bumper cover need to come off? I figured it'd be accessible via the trunk if I pulled the liner back, but could be wrong. Any more info on this?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I've never messed with one on a 5.5 gen, but the 5th gen (2000 & 2001) are not accessible through the trunk. I doubt that Nissan changed the body, but they could have.

cdoublejj

whats the word on a PROPER timing chain kit? i'd maybe bet the ones on ebay are probably Chinese and prior lessons tell me OEM is better.

timmymax03

So can I get a used ecu and install it.
What all would need done to get my 03 max to run?