brandonj

iTrader: (1)

Okay, I've read as much about suspension/handling upgrades as I can find, and am considering all of the following:

Stage 1 LTB
FSTB (not ebay, but not Stillen either)
H&R/Illumina
G35 Coupe rims w/235/40/18 Ecsta ASX
RSB

I live in rural CO, and I drive a lot of country roads. One priority is better high-speed stability - at 90+ on some roads I find the handling a little floaty and sometimes bottom out (not scrape, but hit the bottom of suspension travel). I would also like a more neutral handling balance. Finally, I have to still be able to have my boss in the car and not have him be too uncomfortable. I am no stranger to lowered cars, but I also don't think my car rides that great stock anyway.

Opinions? I am cheap, so I will do most of it as I find used pieces available. Any advice on what order to proceed? Anything you would change, delete, or add? Your experience/advice is appreciated.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

The LTB may not really be advisable if you live in rural CO. Especially if your on dirt roads, but everything else seems to be a good idea. Get the RSB first and tires and you may find thats all you need.

illlojik

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't recommend lowering if you drive on country roads. You might scrape some road kill Though I doubt the h&r springs drop that much to have you worry..

02theMax

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't lower it either. The ride will be too rough especially on country roads. If anything drop the front only if you're adding the G35 18's other than that leave it stock. I don't know why the Maxima is so stiff when dropped, I mean it's tolerable at moderate speeds but definitely not comfortable plus you'll have to slow down considerably for bumps and swerve like a mad man. I don't think your boss will like that too much.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

What cars did you have before that were lowered? I am surprised you've had lowered cars but think that the maxima doesnt ride that smoothly stock because although I agree with you that compared to german RWD sedans the maxima does ride kinda crappy but no where near as much as most cars that are dropped.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

I think he means rural highways and winding roads out in the rural areas.....I don't think he's going 90mph on dirt roads

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

What I think he meens is 90mph on paved roads cause the speed limit out there is like 70 or 75mph, but he also needs to negotiate unpaved roads. Which is what I had in mind when I was giving advice.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

I wouldn't buy H&R for high speed driving. The back end sags and causes more lift. This results in higher fuel consumption and lower stability.

Decoy036SPD

iTrader: (1)

I would recommend purchasing all the bushings possible from http://www.suspension.com I am ordering everything next week and should have it all installed in about two weeks. I got everything from them for my last car and boy do those bushings make a big difference. The mounts and shifter bushings will make the biggest difference. After that I would recommend a front strut tower bar and rear sway bar. You won't be spending anywhere near the amount of money you would if you wanted to lower the car, or put on new rims and tires.

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

wow, finally a useful post from a n00b.....how refreshing.

Decoy036SPD

iTrader: (1)

Yes I am new to this site but I am not new to modifying cars. I was going to turbo my last car but I flipped it because of someone who ran a red light. Ya I would of been like 1 of 5 people to have that car turbo'd. I will be posting pictures of my maxima real soon and show what mods I have done.

/threadjack

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Bushings are another good idea

brandonj

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the responses. To clarify a couple of things:
I don't have to drive on dirt roads much, but I do drive a lot of 2-lanes that have been abused by trucks and weather. They are not really patrolled, hence the high speed cruising. When I first moved here, I had a P11 G20 with Tein S-tech springs and dampers and 16" (+1) wheels/tires. The G20 had about 2 inches less ground clearance than the Max before I dropped it, and even dropped I never had problems scraping. The ride with the Teins was brutal though; my wife wouldn't drive it and my boss wasn't a fan. But even now, I don't think my car rides as well as my 4th gen with H&Rs and stock wheels/tires or my P11 stock. I don't mind a firm ride, I just don't want to lose teeth.

So, a couple more questions:
How big will the ride difference be between 17s and 18s?
How hard are the bushings to do, and how much?
Why no LTB?
Will springs compromise high speed stability? I felt like on both my P11 and my 4th gen they made an improvement.

This is all go/no show. I put about 25k/yr on my car, and I just want to enjoy driving it as much as possible. I bought it to wear it out. With the responses I am leaning toward FSTB first, then RSB, wheels/tires (because I will need new tires soon, though I may just get lighter 17s), then maybe the bushings depending on effort/cost. I may wait on springs/shocks until I move from here (hopefully within the next year). The LTB is up in the air until I understand it better.

Thanks again-

irish44j

iTrader: (38)

It's all relative to the tires you use. If you use the same tires, it will be a firmer ride. In my case, I went from 17s with Falken 512s to 18s with Toyo Proxes4 and ride quality actually improved because of the superior tires.

Some are easy to do (front sway bar) and some take a good bit of work (lower control arm, engine mounts). Most of the bushings are under $50...

IMO, the LTB is great for high-speed handling, and makes the car safer (less oversteer) when using a rear sway bar. You do lose ground clearance and if you're on really low springs you might scrape it occasionally. On Eibachs, I've only scraped mine once, and that was on a steep driveway. I say get one (if you can, since Matt may not be making any more)...

no, assuming you don't "slam" the car. For high speeds, the best spring out there for stability and predictability is Eibach. Period. Not boucy, they handle rough roads decently, and have excellent handling. Make sure to get good struts (Tokico Illumina) at the same time. Stiffer springs with OEM struts SUCK.

I suggest this order (having tried most combinations) for best handling:
1. springs and struts. by themselves, they will improve handling and ride quality the most of anything.
2. wheels and tires (better response, better traction)
3. RSB and LTB at the same time. RSB alone creates oversteer. LTB counterbalances it and "balances" the car's handling and keeps it predictable. Just get a stage 1 LTB...you don't need a stage 2 if you're not autocrossing, IMO.
4. 3. FSTB (it's cheap though it doesn't do much....)
5. bushings (they "tweak" the handling, but do not have a drastic effect all by themselves)

rmd0311

iTrader: (4)

What if... I love the way the car feels right now. Stock SE springs and Blues. I was gonna add a RSB and FSTB. How much difference will I be able to see?

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

no, stiffer springs with quality shocks will increase high speed stability. The thing about H&R springs for 5th gens is that they are noticeably lower in the back than in the front. At high speed in creates affect of a wing and causes the car to start lifting, which results in low stability and traction. In addition to that, it also increases air resistance, (as the air has to be deflected by all those suspension components rather than smooth body panels) which results in higher fuel consumption, slower acceleration and lower top speed.

brandonj

iTrader: (1)

So, Eibach > H&R for high-speed driving? What is the ride trade-off? That is interesting about the gas mileage - looking back, I know I lost MPG on my 4th gen when I switched, but I figured it was the heavier wheel/tire combo.

MacGarnicle

iTrader: (1)

or you can put H&R in the front, and something else in the back, like Maxspeeds

super6

iTrader: (5)

defenatly bushing, HR springs are good for a small drop, illuminas are a great plus, RSB is great for handeling but not sure if it will do anything for high speed stability. good tires will defenatly imporve stability, bridgestone tires usually have excellent sidewalls which means ull get a very sold ride, but watch out, some really suck (RE 92s) but some are execellent in all aspects (like the turanza LS) but be prepared to pay.

ManUtd18

iTrader: (2)

how hard is it to drive in the snow when your car is lowered?
can you tell a difference?

yvfed1

My .02 regarding LTB.
On my 02 SE I have Front/rear strut bars, rear sway bar and LTB Stage II.
While LTBII noticably tightened the car - it tracks much better with it - however I must say it made the car, frankly, un-bearable on rough roads. I vividly remember going home from Canada, and on I-84 (not sure, maybe another highway) was a long streth of contrete pavement. Car was fully loaded and I could NOT move faster than 45 mph while everybody was flying pass me; as it has no shock absorbers at all so jarring it was. It seems, since, that this would be caused by any road with some repeated "rough pattern" - the contrete blocks being one example.
Given a relative difficulty of DIY install of LTB (without a lift), I'd suggest passing on this particular mod.
Perhaps, better shock would be needed to realise a full benefit of LTB - but it's only a speculation on my part.
Eugene

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I am going to guess English isnt your first language. Which is ok but most of what you said just doesnt make sense. The LTB does make it harder to travel on rough or country roads because it will scrape the road from time to time depending on how bad the roads are (its not very far from the ground even before you drop the car.) But it doesnt make the ride any stiffer in the same sense that stiff springs and shocks will.

Ralistin

Quite cool I must say.