Will a bad tranny set off an SES code? My transsmission seemed to be pretty bad today. I know its slowly on its way out anyway, but today it was worse then normal, and the SES light came on. Will a bad tranny set off the light??

 

Bump...Anyone?

 

manual or auto?

 

My car is giving a missfiring fault with the engine light flashing. Coils are good. plugs are new. I have cleaned the air system and ran some fuel cleaner through. When i changed the oil it ran well for a little bit and now it's back to studdering and the engine lights flashing again. Anyone know what is going on here?

 

It it's an Auto it sure can. Being a Gen. 5.5 you also have a tranny fault light. Has it ever blinked on and off? Are you not still covered by your powertrain warranty which should cover the work?

 

Yeah, its auto. No the tranny light has never blinked, thats why I was wondering if it would trip the SES for some reason. Its not under warrenty from Nissan, but from a private company that the dealer gives you when buy the car. I have to take it to them, it should be covered.

 

Don't hijack his thread. There is a specific thread in the forums so noobies can post there questions. Also, there is a Sticky for what to do when your CES light comes on. Good luck m8.

 

I just called the dealer and scheuled an appointment. Person I spoke with said that as long as the car is running good, which it is, and the light is not flashing when you drive it, then its not a serious problem. She also said that if the light goes out before my appoitment, to just cancel the appointment cuase its not big deal. Is that ok??

 

From your first post it sounded like you thought you had a problem....now you say it's "running good"???. Which is it? Even if the SES light comes on then goes out the ECM probably stored the code(s) that triggered the light in the first place. Something did trigger the light so it might be worthwhile still going into the dealer. Don't forget the "Service Agent" or whatever you want to call them are usually non-technical types.

 

umm, that problem seems pretty familiar, not sure but take a look at your Ignition coils. it could be a bad MAf also

 

still running like crap. when this origionally happened it was rare and it's gradually gotten worse and now it's running like this all the time. the engine light is always on and when I try to accelerate a little over easy the light flashes all the time. with much lost power.

 

Matt aitchison...........get the car looked at ASAP. A scan and the code(s) may tell you exactly what's going on. If it's missing and "dumping" raw fuel you could be screwing up the cats which will only add to your problems. How do you know the coils are good anyway?? What year is your car?

 

the car is a 2001 20th anniversary, and I have had it looked at and the codes say misfire. I had them test the coils for me and replace the plugs. The scan did JACK!!! THey weren't able to solve. I just need some ideas of things to try and checkout so I can eliminate this problem. It's really pissing me off.

 

The blinking SES light means that there is serious missfiring going on here. Was this a dealer that you took the car to? If this was a dealer, especially because he has the Consult ll he has no excuse......take it back. What about your Emissions Warranty? Maybe you're covered. The dealer or any good mech. with an OBD ll scantool should have been able to troubleshoot the car and fix it if they had just followed the FSM (and some common sense). Easy for me to say but I think that they should have been able to determine if it was caused by a coil, an injector, an air leak, a fuel pressure/delivery problem, the MAF or a rear O2 sensor. They should have accomplished a cylinder balance check, and from that, once they determine that the missing is not caused by a particular coil or injector (in other words if it's missing on all cylinders) then it's one of the other things. You get my drift here?

 

97Se5spd......what happened to you?

 

Still here sorry for the delay. I forgot to add something that is probaly extremely crucial to this problem. I just intsalled a new intake not even 3 weeks ago. Id say the intake was on there for a week before the light came on and its still on today....what are the chances the intake is causing it?

 

the problem is that they couldn't figure it out at the dealership and they still end up charging me through the roof for it, so I want to try a figure it out myself instead of wasting money on incompitance.

 

matt_aitchison.......I URGE you to contact Nissan Canada at 1-800-387-0122 on Monday and explain to them what has happened. Have your VIN etc. handy. It sounds like the dealer is incompetent and a rip at the least. Nissan is only hurting itself if it does not deal with this kind of customer issue. Did you ever hear pinging? Some '01s had duff coils per TB #01059 but your symptoms and code don't exactly fit those of the TB, but a lot of Gen. 4s and 5s have a coil(s) go bad. My gut tells me it's a coil, but the dealer should have been able to figure it out one way or the other.

 

I'm gonna try a few things on the car this week and see how that goes. I like to try and solve things myself first. If not then I'll call and get this matter sorted out.

 

Not sure what the symptoms are, but it's possible. Since it's still under warranty get it in there so it is at least documented. Make sure you read the fine print on the service contract. You may need to put the stock one back on before taking it in......

EDIT: Also if you are sure the tranny is slowly on it's way out, I would defiently get it in A.S.A.P.
If you can get them to duplicate the problem, they will fix it under warranty.
If they "can not duplicate" then take the mechanic on a test drive and show him what it's doing. Those aftermarket warranties are a Pain in the **** for the service writer and the tech. They often have something set up with the dealers to make them money when they sell a contract, but when it comes time to do the work, the warranty company pays near wholesale for the parts and it's usually a fight to get them to pay full book time.
Basically, if they can wait until the warranty runs out, then do the work the tech gets paid more for flat rate, parts makes more, and the service writer doesn't have to deal with telling the mechanic he only gets 4 hours for a 7 hour job and he doesn't have to deal with calling the contract provider. Everyone wins except you.

What is the code? p0300, p1320, etc...

 

I don't know the code, I don't feel like going back and getting ripped off again. I've already spent too much money for comfort