rear beam
Originally Posted by absoundlab
whats that : Reference: ESM SU-21 & 22 (suspension pdf)?
Its a Nissan specific service manual detailing all parts and aspects of the vehicle. Its available for download at www.phatg20.net (aka FSM = factory service manual)
The manual is broken down by different PDF's for different parts of the vehicle. SU = suspension portion. 21 and 22 is the page number. So therefore SU-21 and 22 is in the suspension (SU) portion of the ESM/FSM.
Originally Posted by irish44j
404: statement without explanation = 
The rear beam has its advantages and disadvantages...but the 5th gen beam setup is far superior to that of the 4th gen, reducing snap oversteer in particular.
Come with justification, or don't come at all.....
The rear beam has its advantages and disadvantages...but the 5th gen beam setup is far superior to that of the 4th gen, reducing snap oversteer in particular.
Come with justification, or don't come at all.....
Originally Posted by VQuick
Irish, I'm curious what you know about the differences between the 4th and 5th gen beams. I thought they were nearly identical but I guess I was wrong.
Man all this is kinda getting confusing! Well I pretty much understand everything it's just this...So does the wheels need to be taken off or not to do this? How can you remove the strut mount when the wheels are on the car, won't they be in the way when you have to remove the lower strut mount???
You don't need to remove any strut mount.
Removing your wheels makes access easier although not completely necessary if you can manage to get off the 17mm bolt holding the strut to the rear beam/hub area.
Removing your wheels makes access easier although not completely necessary if you can manage to get off the 17mm bolt holding the strut to the rear beam/hub area.
Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
You don't need to remove any strut mount.
Removing your wheels makes access easier although not completely necessary if you can manage to get off the 17mm bolt holding the strut to the rear beam/hub area.
Removing your wheels makes access easier although not completely necessary if you can manage to get off the 17mm bolt holding the strut to the rear beam/hub area.
If I don't need to remove any lower strut mount, then why do I need that 17mm bolt holding the strut? Isn't that needed so I can remove the lower strut mount in order for the strut to loose, so I can lift the beam easier????
So far I'm at where I need to adjust the beam with how the car was on the ground. Kinda already lined it up just need to tie the bolts...but its started to rain again
so I'm kinda in the middle of this...Here's a pic of how my beam was when I picked the car up, not sure if that's normal?
update
Ok, I'm pissed!!!!
I got this done today, did step by step exactly how it was described. I'm pretty sure I didn't make a mistake anywhere, and after I was done with everything dropped the car back and it still looked exactly the same (my driver side is still tucked inside more than the passenger one) 
What's wrong?????
Ok, I'm pissed!!!!
I got this done today, did step by step exactly how it was described. I'm pretty sure I didn't make a mistake anywhere, and after I was done with everything dropped the car back and it still looked exactly the same (my driver side is still tucked inside more than the passenger one) What's wrong?????
I don't refer to the lower mounting bolt as a strut mount. A strut mount to me is the top hat in which the bolts mount into the shock towers.
Did you jack up your beam to simulate your normal ride height before tightening everything back up?
Did you jack up your beam to simulate your normal ride height before tightening everything back up?
Originally Posted by Larrio Motors
I don't refer to the lower mounting bolt as a strut mount. A strut mount to me is the top hat in which the bolts mount into the shock towers.
Did you jack up your beam to simulate your normal ride height before tightening everything back up?
Did you jack up your beam to simulate your normal ride height before tightening everything back up?
I don't know what's wrong!?
BTW it's not really necessary for the car to be on a perfect straight pavement before lifting, right? I mean the car still gets lifted in the air and straightens up.
hey shurik have u found a solution yet? im gonna install my suspension next week (H&R/Illuminas) and finally slap my rims on...and im wondering what you did to possibly resolve the issue, if you have yet
keep us updated
keep us updated
Originally Posted by getbigtony
hey hey, first thing to do
check to make sure your tire pressure is the same on both sides, all 4!
=D
check to make sure your tire pressure is the same on both sides, all 4!
=D
Trurida18 no I haven't fixed it yet, I did everything step by step and still it didn't work, I don't know why? I'm out of state right now, so I can't do anything right now.
Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
I haven't done mine yet because I don't have air tools.
I did it on mine with hand tools since my impact batteries were both dead and I didn't feel like waiting. Just make sure to bring a big breaker bar to break the bolts loose.....
Originally Posted by irish44j
you don't need air tools.
I did it on mine with hand tools since my impact batteries were both dead and I didn't feel like waiting. Just make sure to bring a big breaker bar to break the bolts loose.....
I did it on mine with hand tools since my impact batteries were both dead and I didn't feel like waiting. Just make sure to bring a big breaker bar to break the bolts loose.....
Originally Posted by 00MaxSE
I think I do. Coolmax and I tried to do his car and we couldn't get enough room to use the breaker bar effectively. It's pretty tight under there.
or some muscles
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
O noes! I failed today at it as well 
...Today I rubed my right rear tire like crazy when my car was loaded with 2 people on the back, it's was pretty loud and ennoying for the 8 hour trip that I did.
Irish since yours worked out, any help on this, what could go wrong???
Nightmare = Reality
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 718
From: Waterford, MI
you know, I didn't even know wtf you were actually talking about loosening the bolts to the rear beam until i saw the pics. that's called the Panhard Rod, and it limits the amount of lateral movement that can take place on the rear suspension. because it is a rigid piece, the only TRUE way of re-centering your rear suspension it to either change the length of that rod, or change the location of the mounting point on the car. if you're lowered, you're going to be off-center if the bushings aren't binding. the reason they're binding in the first place is because the new geometry is forcing the Panhard rod to PUSH against the beam and that bushing. the Bushing is obviously softer than steel, so it has a loaded effect. By unbinding these bushings, you are actually changing the angle of the shocks/springs and how they compress. the lower you go, the more suspension geometry issues you're asking for. the other possible solution for appearance's sake, is using a spacer of different width on each end of the car. I've made a crude diagram illustrating my point:
bottom line, you either live with it, get custom bushings, hide it, or break out the welding/cutting equipment, and hope you're very accurate.
bottom line, you either live with it, get custom bushings, hide it, or break out the welding/cutting equipment, and hope you're very accurate.
While I haven't yet performed the procedure, I think the whole point is that the positions of the bolts on either end of the panhard link aren't fixed. You loosen up the bolts to allow them to adjust in their elongated holes while you jack the beam up and keep it centered, then crank 'em back on in the positions which keep the beam centered at normal ride height for your suspension. You don't have to get custom bushings or break out the welder, Nissan has already made it adjustable.
The funny thing to me is that there will actually be less lateral movement per suspension activity when lowered than when at stock ride height.
One more thing: because of the design of the links, the only point that's fixed in the model is actually the center point (where the link that branches off the panhard link meets the beam). This design allows for less lateral movement than a traditional panhard rod design. The other connection from the panhard link to the beam has a bushing specially designed to allow for plenty of play.
The funny thing to me is that there will actually be less lateral movement per suspension activity when lowered than when at stock ride height.
One more thing: because of the design of the links, the only point that's fixed in the model is actually the center point (where the link that branches off the panhard link meets the beam). This design allows for less lateral movement than a traditional panhard rod design. The other connection from the panhard link to the beam has a bushing specially designed to allow for plenty of play.
Originally Posted by shurik
Kevlo so your didn't work as well???? I still can't figure out what I did wrong with mine cause I followed step by step like it was described here?
...Today I rubed my right rear tire like crazy when my car was loaded with 2 people on the back, it's was pretty loud and ennoying for the 8 hour trip that I did.
Irish since yours worked out, any help on this, what could go wrong???
...Today I rubed my right rear tire like crazy when my car was loaded with 2 people on the back, it's was pretty loud and ennoying for the 8 hour trip that I did.
Irish since yours worked out, any help on this, what could go wrong???
I couldn't get one of the bolts/nuts loose so I kinda did it half ***'d, check my thread in the advanced suspension.
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
I couldn't get one of the bolts/nuts loose so I kinda did it half ***'d, check my thread in the advanced suspension.
.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
While I haven't yet performed the procedure, I think the whole point is that the positions of the bolts on either end of the panhard link aren't fixed. You loosen up the bolts to allow them to adjust in their elongated holes while you jack the beam up and keep it centered, then crank 'em back on in the positions which keep the beam centered at normal ride height for your suspension. You don't have to get custom bushings or break out the welder, Nissan has already made it adjustable.
The funny thing to me is that there will actually be less lateral movement per suspension activity when lowered than when at stock ride height.
One more thing: because of the design of the links, the only point that's fixed in the model is actually the center point (where the link that branches off the panhard link meets the beam). This design allows for less lateral movement than a traditional panhard rod design. The other connection from the panhard link to the beam has a bushing specially designed to allow for plenty of play.
The funny thing to me is that there will actually be less lateral movement per suspension activity when lowered than when at stock ride height.
One more thing: because of the design of the links, the only point that's fixed in the model is actually the center point (where the link that branches off the panhard link meets the beam). This design allows for less lateral movement than a traditional panhard rod design. The other connection from the panhard link to the beam has a bushing specially designed to allow for plenty of play.
hey guys im bumping this as im going to attempt this tomorrrow. i see which bolts need to be loosened and have the tools. My question is in reference to the quote above. "You loosen up the bolts to allow them to adjust in their elongated holes while you jack the beam up and keep it centered, " so the bolts we loosen are in elngated holes? Also how do you center the beam. Do you push the beam to the drivers side to recenter it or does it automatically center itself once the bolts are loose. I pm Irish but he isnt quite sure since it was a while back he did it. Also, what were your impressions after you adjusted it. Did it ride, handle, take bumps and such better/ Any pros and cons of doing this minus the centering of the axle?
hey guys im bumping this as im going to attempt this tomorrrow. i see which bolts need to be loosened and have the tools. My question is in reference to the quote above. "You loosen up the bolts to allow them to adjust in their elongated holes while you jack the beam up and keep it centered, " so the bolts we loosen are in elngated holes? Also how do you center the beam. Do you push the beam to the drivers side to recenter it or does it automatically center itself once the bolts are loose. I pm Irish but he isnt quite sure since it was a while back he did it. Also, what were your impressions after you adjusted it. Did it ride, handle, take bumps and such better/ Any pros and cons of doing this minus the centering of the axle?
Last edited by blkAEmax82; Nov 30, 2008 at 06:27 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
i got that im just wondering if you adjust the rear beam or if it adjusts itself once the bolts are loose. I undersdtand the directions just looking to see how it "adjusts" ... say by itself once loosened or need to do it manually by hand. AE01, have you done this mod. Im looking to see if anyone has and what there impressions are on it. Better handling, ride and such or worse...
also once i do that i want to put wheel spacers on to give the car a better look. I can get 10mm spacers. DO i need to replace the lugs to add 10 mm spacers or will the stock lugs do?
also once i do that i want to put wheel spacers on to give the car a better look. I can get 10mm spacers. DO i need to replace the lugs to add 10 mm spacers or will the stock lugs do?
i got that im just wondering if you adjust the rear beam or if it adjusts itself once the bolts are loose. I undersdtand the directions just looking to see how it "adjusts" ... say by itself once loosened or need to do it manually by hand. AE01, have you done this mod. Im looking to see if anyone has and what there impressions are on it. Better handling, ride and such or worse...
also once i do that i want to put wheel spacers on to give the car a better look. I can get 10mm spacers. DO i need to replace the lugs to add 10 mm spacers or will the stock lugs do?
also once i do that i want to put wheel spacers on to give the car a better look. I can get 10mm spacers. DO i need to replace the lugs to add 10 mm spacers or will the stock lugs do?
Last edited by blkAEmax82; Nov 30, 2008 at 06:43 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
ok need help now. i did everything, loosened bolts measured the height and everything. When i get it to the correct height i can get it to bugde left or right tot adjust the beam what am i doing wrong. loosened the bolt to the beam, the one connecting trailing arm to body even the swing peice in the middle, have the shocks unbolted and such but no dice. Need help now as i have it all undone.....
So you loosened these nuts from this post ?
http://forums.maxima.org/4487961-post20.html
Once you got those loose just raise the bar to the height you measured. No left or right movement is needed. Lifting the rear beam while the nuts are loose are letting the bushing unbind making the rear beam align itself .
http://forums.maxima.org/4487961-post20.html
Once you got those loose just raise the bar to the height you measured. No left or right movement is needed. Lifting the rear beam while the nuts are loose are letting the bushing unbind making the rear beam align itself .
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
Here's a closeup of the bushing:
This is looking toward the front of the car. (toward the right)
And a closeup of the bushing itself:
yea i actually loosened all of the nusts under there. hahaha. I knew i needded the 2 end ones on each side but since it wasnt moving i loosened them all. I did just that after thinking that it might just need to be jaced back up and tightened so thats what i did. I measured and its more even but not even. I measured about 1/2 inch from tire to fender on pass side and 15/16 from fender to tire on pas side. so it still looks very off. thats about 3/8 to 1/2 difference.
Ill give driving impressions later tonight
i want to get some spacers to make it have the wider look. I cant see or afford to spend 130 on spacers what iwas thinking is that some 10-15mm spacers would look good. I can find the spacers but i nkow i need longer studs. other than the 60 dollar nismos what else is there or does anyone know of any sites that offer longer studs at a reasonable price?
Last edited by jeff5347; Dec 1, 2008 at 11:11 AM.
Just buy H&R or Eibach spacers, they include high-quality lugs. You can get 15mm H&R spacers for about $100. Check the group deals forum for a thread by ImportRP (sp?), I believe he's selling Eibach spacers at a very good price. I bought my H&Rs from http://www.optionsauto.com/
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
ok im on option auto and see they seel studs. Our studs are 12x1.25 with a 14.3mm head correct.
i got this off of advanced auto parts which states our specs on the studs. Just want to get confirmation before i get anything.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=183&PTSet=A
Specifications:
Head Code: 378
Knurl Diameter: 14.35mm
Thread Pitch: Right
Shoulder Length: 13.5mm
Thread Size: M12-1.25
Length: 42mm
Type: Serrated Stud
Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance
so should this work from option.
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....=ICH-NS-122550
My only question is our stcok studs are 42 mm long. Getting ones that are 50mm long or 8mm longer wouldnt work with 15 or 20mm spacers. I think possibly 10mm or lower these studs could handle.
What say you?
i got this off of advanced auto parts which states our specs on the studs. Just want to get confirmation before i get anything.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=183&PTSet=A
Specifications:
Head Code: 378
Knurl Diameter: 14.35mm
Thread Pitch: Right
Shoulder Length: 13.5mm
Thread Size: M12-1.25
Length: 42mm
Type: Serrated Stud
Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance
so should this work from option.
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....=ICH-NS-122550
My only question is our stcok studs are 42 mm long. Getting ones that are 50mm long or 8mm longer wouldnt work with 15 or 20mm spacers. I think possibly 10mm or lower these studs could handle.
What say you?
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,124
From: Leicester, Ma
ok so i went to the gym tonight. It is 20 minutes each way. Visually i cant really see a diff in the inset of the dr tire. It still is in about the same amount.
While taking it for a ride i did notice a diff in the ride. It feels softer. What im ean is when i lowered the car it gave a rough fell over bumps but it made the car feel very perfomance oriented. After unbinding the bushinds it takes bumps and such almost like stock ( i think i cant remember that far back) Manhole covers or cracks in the road seem to be less noticeable.
The downside it seems like it lost some of the performance feel due to the softness (not caddy soft just soft them before) Ill see some more and if i dont like it ill just redo the rear and rebind the bushings hahahah
While taking it for a ride i did notice a diff in the ride. It feels softer. What im ean is when i lowered the car it gave a rough fell over bumps but it made the car feel very perfomance oriented. After unbinding the bushinds it takes bumps and such almost like stock ( i think i cant remember that far back) Manhole covers or cracks in the road seem to be less noticeable.
The downside it seems like it lost some of the performance feel due to the softness (not caddy soft just soft them before) Ill see some more and if i dont like it ill just redo the rear and rebind the bushings hahahah