rear beam
12-02-2008, 06:54 AM
#81
It works, just take your time!
First: done properly, this fix DOES work.
2nd: You DO have to remove the strut bottom bolt where they attach to the axle member. --my bolts were so hard, the impact wouldn't break them--! (hint: use anti-seize lube when you re-assemble!)
Measure BEFORE you unbolt the strut from the axle.
I measured the WHEELS from center hub to the fender -- although this wasn't the easiest method.
I couldn't get an accurate measurement from the fender to the axle hub do to offset.....
Use TWO jacks, one on each side of the axle beam -- this will ensure that the "drop" is even when you re-bolt everything...especially if you're working on an uneven surface.
Make sure you spray all bolts down with LiquidWrench or a similar penetrant BEFORE attempting to loosen -- wd-40 is not as good for this task....but will work eventually.
I never noticed any changes in ride quality, but the "drop" did even-out after I did this methodically, and properly. i DID mess it up the first time, but mostly because I followed somebody else's instructions.
good luck.
gr
2nd: You DO have to remove the strut bottom bolt where they attach to the axle member. --my bolts were so hard, the impact wouldn't break them--! (hint: use anti-seize lube when you re-assemble!)
Measure BEFORE you unbolt the strut from the axle.
I measured the WHEELS from center hub to the fender -- although this wasn't the easiest method.
I couldn't get an accurate measurement from the fender to the axle hub do to offset.....
Use TWO jacks, one on each side of the axle beam -- this will ensure that the "drop" is even when you re-bolt everything...especially if you're working on an uneven surface.
Make sure you spray all bolts down with LiquidWrench or a similar penetrant BEFORE attempting to loosen -- wd-40 is not as good for this task....but will work eventually.
I never noticed any changes in ride quality, but the "drop" did even-out after I did this methodically, and properly. i DID mess it up the first time, but mostly because I followed somebody else's instructions.
good luck.
gr
12-02-2008, 07:49 PM
#83
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Leicester, Ma
Posts: 1,124
its hard to break them loose if you jack up the car and lay under it to break them loose. if someone has a lift try that then you should get them. if not i would do as ghostrider says. SPray the bolts down and then the next day try to break them loose. I got them loose and yes they were one of the hardest i havde ever tried to break loose.
Like i said i got mine all done and now im actually liking the ride. Takes bumps, cracks, potholes and such so much better. The only thing i have a clunking or loose sound now and it is only from the pass side and i cant tell if it is the front or back but since it just came on since i did this im assuming it the rear. The dr side it wonderful doesnt make noise and takes the imperfections like a champ. The pass side doesnt clunk all the time only ony stuff like manholes, potholes and major imperfections in the road such as a lump of asphalt from a repaved area. Other than that all is good. On dips in the road whether minor or big it doesnt make the noise. only on sudden and quick changes in roads conditions.
So i looked at the car today and did these things:
made sure all axle and beam bolts are tight -check
made sure all lugs on car are tight -check
made sure sway bar assembly is tight -check
im going to check to make sure the shock mount inside the trunk is tight (highly doubt this is it)
check to make sure shock bolted to spindle area is tight
other than that im at a loss,
any one have ideas on what is causing this?
Like i said i got mine all done and now im actually liking the ride. Takes bumps, cracks, potholes and such so much better. The only thing i have a clunking or loose sound now and it is only from the pass side and i cant tell if it is the front or back but since it just came on since i did this im assuming it the rear. The dr side it wonderful doesnt make noise and takes the imperfections like a champ. The pass side doesnt clunk all the time only ony stuff like manholes, potholes and major imperfections in the road such as a lump of asphalt from a repaved area. Other than that all is good. On dips in the road whether minor or big it doesnt make the noise. only on sudden and quick changes in roads conditions.
So i looked at the car today and did these things:
made sure all axle and beam bolts are tight -check
made sure all lugs on car are tight -check
made sure sway bar assembly is tight -check
im going to check to make sure the shock mount inside the trunk is tight (highly doubt this is it)
check to make sure shock bolted to spindle area is tight
other than that im at a loss,
any one have ideas on what is causing this?
12-03-2008, 09:24 AM
#84
ok im on option auto and see they seel studs. Our studs are 12x1.25 with a 14.3mm head correct.
i got this off of advanced auto parts which states our specs on the studs. Just want to get confirmation before i get anything.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=183&PTSet=A
Specifications:
Head Code: 378
Knurl Diameter: 14.35mm
Thread Pitch: Right
Shoulder Length: 13.5mm
Thread Size: M12-1.25
Length: 42mm
Type: Serrated Stud
Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance
so should this work from option.
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....=ICH-NS-122550
My only question is our stcok studs are 42 mm long. Getting ones that are 50mm long or 8mm longer wouldnt work with 15 or 20mm spacers. I think possibly 10mm or lower these studs could handle.
What say you?
i got this off of advanced auto parts which states our specs on the studs. Just want to get confirmation before i get anything.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...pe=183&PTSet=A
Specifications:
Head Code: 378
Knurl Diameter: 14.35mm
Thread Pitch: Right
Shoulder Length: 13.5mm
Thread Size: M12-1.25
Length: 42mm
Type: Serrated Stud
Features: Zinc plated for corrosion resistance
so should this work from option.
http://www.optionsauto.com/prodinfo....=ICH-NS-122550
My only question is our stcok studs are 42 mm long. Getting ones that are 50mm long or 8mm longer wouldnt work with 15 or 20mm spacers. I think possibly 10mm or lower these studs could handle.
What say you?
12-04-2008, 06:47 PM
#85
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Leicester, Ma
Posts: 1,124
so i checked to see where my clunk was coming from. Checked the read end and everything was tight. Last night while coming home i pulled in the driveway and noticed the noise was from the front of the pass side. SO this morning i acked her up again to check all the nuts and bolts i ever touched. Well it turned out it was the caliper bracket to the spindle. seems it was just snug on there. I did tighten it while i did my 6th gen upgrade but it must have loosened just enough to make noise. Tightened it up and no more noise. Its nice when you can find the problem and be done.. Feels good.
12-04-2008, 07:53 PM
#87
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Leicester, Ma
Posts: 1,124
see if this may be it because i found this too. While under the car i noticed that the "crossmember" that goes under the b pipe near the back of the car. I noticed that the rubber that holds the exhaust up and gives it play was stretched. Not rippedor anytthing but after 5 years it has seen better days. The b pipe was hanging only about 1/16 of an inch from the crossmember . i grabbed it and could bang it against the crossmember very easy. I disconnected it and hung the hanger on the exhaust in the middle of the rubber. Youll know what i mean when you see it. now it hangs 1" from the crossmember and cant hit it. i figured that was my problem but it wasnt. But it might solve your problem..
12-05-2008, 03:43 PM
#88
see if this may be it because i found this too. While under the car i noticed that the "crossmember" that goes under the b pipe near the back of the car. I noticed that the rubber that holds the exhaust up and gives it play was stretched. Not rippedor anytthing but after 5 years it has seen better days. The b pipe was hanging only about 1/16 of an inch from the crossmember . i grabbed it and could bang it against the crossmember very easy. I disconnected it and hung the hanger on the exhaust in the middle of the rubber. Youll know what i mean when you see it. now it hangs 1" from the crossmember and cant hit it. i figured that was my problem but it wasnt. But it might solve your problem..
08-23-2009, 08:30 AM
#89
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1
Will this adjustment help align the rear wheels with the front wheels? Looking from the rear of my Max (from either side) it appears from the right rear side that rear tire sticks out from the body of the car more that the front right wheel/tire. Conversely, on the left it appears the rear is in father than the front left. In other words the rear wheels/tires are offset from the front. Does this have anything to do with the beam?
03-02-2010, 12:14 PM
#90
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: brookyln new york
Posts: 8
alright people, I got some pictures. It's really not that hard once you just get under your car and look, so hopefully this will help 
This is looking toward the front of the car. (toward the left)
Here's a closeup of the bushing:
This is looking toward the front of the car. (toward the right)
And a closeup of the bushing itself:
Hopefully these are correct. I'm sure irish can confirm it. I haven't done it myself, but eventually I'll get around to it.
This is looking toward the front of the car. (toward the left)
Here's a closeup of the bushing:
This is looking toward the front of the car. (toward the right)
And a closeup of the bushing itself:
Hopefully these are correct. I'm sure irish can confirm it. I haven't done it myself, but eventually I'll get around to it.
03-05-2010, 05:11 PM
#94
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: brookyln new york
Posts: 8
03-07-2010, 02:41 PM
#95
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: brookyln new york
Posts: 8
03-08-2010, 04:03 PM
#96
Member
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: obx NC
Posts: 92
Glad I found this. My bushings are bent bad. My car is at stock hight????? I was going to straighten it out somehjow and fill it in with some 3m window weld so it would hold but it looks like thats not going to be needed. Hopefully I will be able to get it fixed sometime this week. I am haveing to order the the aluminum bar that hooks to the sway bar and rear beam b/c it sounds sooo bad. I did clean it one already and sparayed it with wd40 and the noise stoppped for about a week(but its back) So I am replaceing that aluminum bar(s that will be a good time to get the sway bar bushings straight
03-10-2010, 12:26 PM
#97
Could you just loosen the strut bolts instead of removing and drive the rear onto ramps or a lift that lifts the car by the wheels allowing you to still get under it? The reason why I ask is because it sounds like it would work best if we reset these bushing with the weight on the suspensions allowing the bushing to be reset when it settles how it naturally wants to settle without the stress of these bushings. Just a thought.
01-13-2020, 07:02 AM
#98
Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 265
You have to re-center the rear beam. Basically due to the linkage on the rear beam, our solid axle pivots upwards and to the right side under compression.
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
Now the bushings and such were designed for a car at stock ride height. When you lower the car, you start to deform and constrict the bushings since the suspension angle is changing in relation to the chassis. In the FSM you will find segments on how to re-align the beam. Take a peak next time when the car is on a flat surface and you will see the bushings are bent sideways
What you have to do:
1. measure your rear vehicle ride height
2. jack up the car and place jack stands
3. unbolt the bottom bolts holding your rear shocks to the beam
4. loosen the bolt going through the bushing on your beam (there is one on each side, two total)
5. jack up the beam until it is at the ride height you measured earlier
6. tighten the two bolts you loosened
7. tighten the rear suspension bolts back on
8. lower and drive around
you'll find the rear end of the car will feel awesome because the bushings are not binding anymore and the car won't rub either
Is it necessary to unbolt the rear struts? Do you unbolt them just to make it easier to jack up the rear beam to the correct ride height?
Do I need two jacks, one on each side of the beam, to get it level?
01-13-2020, 01:19 PM
#99
i don't think it's worth the effort, been un centered after lowering for 180k miles.
i think the difference stance wise is 10mm IIRC, i usually put a 5mm on the driver side (rear only) to keep the difference at bay
i think the difference stance wise is 10mm IIRC, i usually put a 5mm on the driver side (rear only) to keep the difference at bay
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