Totalpckge1

Does anybody know about the Throttle Position Sensor? If so, What are the symptoms if it goes bad? If bad, where can I find one and how much would it cost?

Imax00

i think thats wrong on my car...my cars auto tranny is shifting very hard from 1st to 2nd gear. When attempting full throttle passing on the highway cars rpms shoot to redline then fall to about 2 rpms without any pull. those are the symptoms im recieving.

imchaiwala

check to see if there's a tsb on the tps

madisonmxma

You can test a TPS with a digital voltmeter. Backprobe the signal wire on the TPS plug and put the other lead on a ground. Turn the key on engine off and observe the readings at closed throttle to WOT. At closed throttle should be a reading of roughly .45 volts and WOT should read somewhere around 3.5-5 volts. Observe the readings in the whole range and see if the voltage drops off or if there is some place where the numbers don't seem to be right.

Maxterror

iTrader: (2)

Bump for this , my car struggles to pass 2500 and I can walk faster than the car moves


I have the same questions as the Original poster

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like the car is in "limp" mode. Your check engine light should be on. Regardless, go to some place like autozone and have them check for codes.

Let us know what the codes are.

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Check your MAF

Maxterror

iTrader: (2)

I dont see a CEL light on my dash, but the code reader says its on ....I scanned the codes and the one that seems related is p0226

mahanddeem

MAF is no.1 when people are "dissing" and throwing out suggestions...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

It seems like your CEL light is burned out. To test this, turn the ignition switch to the ON position but don't start the car. All the dash warning lights should light up when you do this. This is the official bulb test procedure.

P0226 is an Accelerator Pedal Position (APP) sensor failure. One of the easier things that the manual suggests is to loosen and then re-tighten the 2 ground wires that are on the timing chain cover to the left of the oil filler cap (when you are standing in front of the car). There are voltage tests you can make, see section EC of the FSM, page 304.

If you don't have a FSM, download one from here -

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/

The file named fwd.pdf is the "cover page" file.
The file named idx.pdf is the alphabetical index file.

Maxterror

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I ran over to my highschool teacher and borrowed some stuff..like a voltmeter and some other stuff

I unplugged that silver plug that you see connected to the black thing at the top of the picture, and had the Haynes manual and the Nissan FSM pulled up on my laptop and was trying all types of stuff...checking grounds ...volts etc( key was in the ignition the whole time) ...at the end of it I had to call it a day because I had some other stuff to do...so I plugged the thing back in and decided to start the car one more time...it started then died right away...tried this 3 times- same thing...so i took the key out, locked the car with my remote and tried it again

BOOM the thing shot up , so I revved it a few times and could tell something was different....I put everything away and went for a boot, it pulls WAY harder in the lower rpms than before and feels a lot more direct IE: stiffer throttle.


I have a feeling the computer(s) are still not 100% though because Im reading like 92L/100 km for my fuel use...which is more than 10 times what I normally get




But its running fine now...the sunroof was confused I guess because the controls were doing like way different things the the fuel computer was giving me crazy high numbers but apart from those things and the car being a lot more aggressive in terms of the pressure I apply to the throttle ( I have to actually think about how I press the gas now because this thing wants to move ) everything is ok.


Is there like a way to check the overall computer system in the car to see if everything is running ok ? I'll give it a few more days on the road before I count my eggs.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

I have never heard of a test proceedure for the computer. Maybe Nissan's Consult can do that, but I really don't know. One thing you could try is to disconnect the battery and let it sit for about a half hour and then re-connect the battery. This will do a semi-reset on the computer.

BronxSleeperMax187

^ what he said