maximamass

So about 700 miles back I put new OEM rotors and Hawk HPS rotors on the car. The rotors are still smooth as a baby BUTT so its not a material transfer thing.

I am getting a grabbing sensation still. It feels like it they are warped at low speeds but high speeds they are smooth.

I just did the rears last fall but with aftermarket rotors and crappy pads. Could this be my issue?

This is soo frustrating. I have owned 2 max's and both have done the same thing to me.

Can someone help me?

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

i got that issue with my brakes at low speeds......then i swapped my STOCK OEM PADS AND ROTORS FOR POWERSLOT SLOTTED ROTORS IN THE FRONT AND BREMBO BLANKS IN THE BACK...and HAWK HPS pads all the way around

what type of aftermarket rotor did u use for the back?

maximamass

Just raybestos and ceramic pads. They arent smooth at ALL. They are already grooved and stuff.

I am probably gonna pull the rears have them resurfaced and put HPS pads on them. I think ultimately thats my problem but wasnt sure if anyone else had this.

steves01max

When you wash your car, do u wet the wheels right after the cars been driven? Doing this could warp the rotors between the heat and the cold water.

RLW001

iTrader: (11)

Did you follow the procedue to "bed" the rotors?

maximamass

Yes I did.

As for warping the rotors by spraying water on them that has got to be the stupidest thing I have ever heard.

What happens when you driving down the road for say 50 miles and hit a puddle. Does this warp them?? No.

Rotors RARELY warp. They usally get material transfer which causes it.

PAREDLINE

Why are you so focused with the pads and rotor? Sounds to me like your calipers are sticking a little. Did you check your caliper slide pins? Make sure they're greased. Make sure the caliper boots arent ripped or binding. Use some disk brake stop squeal on the pads. They stick the pads to the caliper so once you stop braking the pads are off the rotor.

PAREDLINE

If you drive down the road at 50 and hit a puddle over and over again your rotors will warp. It's simple physics. Heat expands metal, cold contracts metal. One time- or 10 instances of this happening may not warp your rotor but if it happens often enough, they will warp.

If you hit a puddle at 50 your rotors arent really as hot as if you were in stop and go traffic for an hour or braking for a long time and then hit a puddle.

I personally think "bedding" brakes and how people are so religious about it is retarded

Your brakes automatically bed... as you drive and stop.

JohnWEngle

http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp...rakedisk.shtml

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

so how would i get my brakes to stop squealing AT VERY LOW SPEEDS......my new pads and brakes, SQUEAL "SOMETIMES" at low speeds...they dont squeal if i have to break heavy. The only time they may squeal is if im doing approx 25 mph or less and brake gradually. Then when i try to duplicate it,.....I CANT!
its starting to bug the hell out of me

maximamass

Guys these front rotors are 700 miles old as in less than a month. There is no way they warped after that period of time

JohnWEngle

Did you use anti-squeal compound when installing the new pads?

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...cid=2&scccid=1

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

nope the only thing that was done was i cleaned the rotors of the lint that were on the brembo blanks

thanks for the info, VERY INFORMATIVE READ....

JohnWEngle

You can get the anti-squeal compound at any autoparts store. It's a thick goopy material. Usually comes is a squeeze bottle. The type I have is a bright red/orange in color. Color isn't important. Pull your calipers and then pull the pads off. Apply a coating of the compound to the back of the pads (not the friction material) - something on the order of 1/16th of an inch thick. This isn't a real precise process, the idea is to get a coating on the back of the pads. You don't want to go to thin, as the caliper piston can push thru eventually and you won't want it to thick, as it's messy and wasteful. And you don't even have to do the entire back of the pad, primarily just where the piston makes contact, but it's just easier to spread it all over. Depending on the compound, you'll probably have to wait a few minutes for it to dry (read the label). Then just reassemble your brakes.

Also, you may want to inspect the pad surface for glazing. Sometimes this can cause squealing, particulary under the conditions you mention. If the pads are glazed (shiny), just take some medium grit sand paper and scuff the pad surface until the glazing is gone.

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

Sounds like a sticky Caliper to me, especially at low speed. But ALWAYS take the easiest cheapest route first.
Might be beneficial to take apart the caliper assembly and put some grease in the PINS and sliders. Also give the piston and assembly a good douching with Brake Cleaner. That's what it's for (the cleaner).
Do the brake grease / lube as John W instructed above, while you're in there. This is good advice, and SHOULD fix most squealing issues.

If the caliper(s) is still sticking or exhibiting the same issues after that, perhaps tearing-down the piston assembly and rebuilding (or replacing) would be the next thing to do. Dust seals CAN go bad, particularly on higher mileage cars that haven't been well-maintained at service intervals. This may be beyond your tech abilities -- but this should be the normal process to follow. Naturally, this would require bleeding and remounting the calipers - which is not for the avg. novice.

SQUEALING:

I've been trying to get rid of a squeal for the past few months. I THINK it's on my driver's rear, but maybe up front too. HArd to tell, but only at low speeds as well.
Last time I changed my rotors, I sanded-down my pads AND greased the he11 outta my pads (backs) and STILL, the squeal!!
So, two weeks ago, I went in with the ORANGE stuff, and thought I had it that time. NOPE! 20 miles later - Still squeals!
Driving me NUTS!!!!
I'm going to have to take them ALL apart and lube'em up good, at this point. ~dunno what else to do! I think it might be a warped shim or something....seems to make very positive contact (note piston indent) with the piston and shimback.
gr

ghostrider17

iTrader: (6)

BTW - you can't really SEE pad material trasfer....it's somewhat microscopic.

JohnWEngle

Agreed. According to StopTech: "The driver can feel a 0.0004" deposit or TV on the disc. 0.001" is annoying."

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

DARN, that just what i was hoping it wasnt.....BUT HEY.......im gonna try that mehod first. I might just even say the hell with it and find some different calipers, and if you did all that and YOUR STILL SQUEAL. I can imagine how pissed off im gonna beif that noise just starts right back up again on me. i might just go ahead and get new calipers and call it a day.

also thanks for the help man, that info was great appreciated ALSO THANK YOU JohnWEngle

maximamass

they are actually getting better as of today and from what I here it can take about 1000 miles for new pads/rotors to bed. As for squealing I have none and YES i put a coating of a anti squeal material on there. I am just gonna learn to deal with it.