2k0to2k3

iTrader: (1)

so i was driving my 2k max w 70k miles, home today and out of nowhere it just started to....shake, vibrate or idle very roughly. i thought it was going to stall because it sure felt like it was. it almost reminded me of how it bogged down when i did the seafoam treatment months ago. it did it at a stop and while driving and then after about 3 miles it just stopped and went back to normal?

not sure if it's related but about a month ago my battery and brake gauges started flickering on and off as well. i had my batt and alternator checked and both were fine. also the brake is not on, so i figured it must just be some type of glitch.

thanks to anyone that may be able to help in advance.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

99% sure its a bad MAF

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

Check the coils also... I had one comming loose on me and it would run really rough.

You did not get a CEL? I would run the codes anyway and see if anything is saved.

brio_max

iTrader: (9)

Same here.
Sometimes my engine was running on 5 cylinders w/o getting a CEL... My car was shaking and having a rough idle as well, caused by a bad Coil...!

2k0to2k3

iTrader: (1)

thanks guys for the info. i think i'm gonna change my maf regardless just because i've read how well the car runs after the change anyway. i was just looking for a reason to do so. i'll post after the change. thanks again

P. Samson

I doubt that it's the MAF because it's intermittent. Sounds like it's a coil completely crapping out and dropping the idle down enough to give you the flickering brake and Alt. light. You are aware of the coils on these cars? Have you had any coils replaced or do you know if any have been replaced? The only other thing would be to check for clean and tight battery connections.

2k0to2k3

iTrader: (1)

no coils have been changed, they are all original. i'm only aware of the coils from reading here and there about them on the org. i remember reading how some isolate to find which ones are bad etc. but im thinking why not change them all? are they really expensive? i will not be doing the work so i'm thinking i'll be paying for the labor to get in there so while there, why not change all? not sure how hard they are to get to but i dont think i'll be doing it.

i have a guy who i bring parts to and he does work. i guess i really have to find what is wrong with it first. could i bring it to any shop to get codes or shoulld i bring it to deallership? just afraid of cost at the dealership.

P. Samson

With this much missing and apparently not just at idle, l'm kinda surprised the ECM hasn't put on the SES light. A severe misfire is supposed to give you the flashing SES "light of death" so to speak. I've seen before where light, intermittent missing at idle took a long time before the ECM set a (P1320) code and put on the SES light and then eventually setting a P03XX code. You could check for codes anyway. If you had a P03XX code (gives you the cyl.#), then isolating the duff one is easy obviously. Coils aren't cheap especially from the dealer, but if you are going to hang on to the car, and you can get a good price, then I guess change them all. I'm still somewhat suspicious though. I would still like to see you check the battery connections.

upstatemax

iTrader: (15)

When mine was loose it did not always give a light... But it did store a misfire code in the ECU.

2k0to2k3

iTrader: (1)

i tested all conections to the battery and had my mechanic hook a tester to the battery and alternator which tested both and they were both fine. i wish it would just break altogether. i hate these intermitent problems. i just drove it and it was fine but the battery and break light on instrument panel did continue to flicker but then again it's been doing that for months now? anyway thanks for the help

P. Samson

When you drove the car just now and you had the flickering battery and brake lights, did you have any obvious engine missing? I'm confused by the term "tested the connections to the battery". How so? If you haven't already, I sure wish you would (make sure the Ign. switch is OFF) remove both battery connections, make sure the clamps haven't cracked, the wire crimps are good, clean the clamp IDs and the battery posts of any corrosion with emery cloth/paper or equiv. and (Ign. OFF) reinstall. Coating with dielectric silicone grease is a good idea. Note: You may notice the ECM "relearning" for a few miles. This should eliminate any question re the battery connections.

Trurida18

iTrader: (4)

^^so the ECM relearns everytime you disconnect the battery for a long period of time?

P. Samson

When you disconnect battery power for ANY length of time the ECM loses the prior "learned" operating/driving/adaptive/ stuff, and when you RECONNECT the battery power the ECM will initially use it's programmed, basic memory/functions to run the engine, but as you drive the car the ECM will eventually "relearn" all that lost, adaptive stuff and "fine tune" it's operation/control of the engine. This "relearn" time can vary a lot and you may notice some engine operation issues during the "relearn". And give it time to relearn before "mashing" the throttle. If work was done on the engine such as some component changes then there are some other basic procedures that may have to be accomplished. If you disconnect the battery for about 24 hrs you kill all diagnostic data/stored fault codes.

2k0to2k3

iTrader: (1)

thanks again for the continued interest. to answer your question, yes i checked all connections and there is no corrotion and they are both securly fastened to the pos and neg terminals. the ground is also securely fastened to car chasis with no corrotion. i just replaced battery this summer at which time i cleaned up terminals etc, although they did not have corrotion at that time either. My mechanic tested it with a (sorry don't know the name) roll out machine that tested charge on battery and alternator. he hooked it to the battery and was able to tell amps,volts, etc and alll were good.

even so, i'm going to try what you are saying right now, just to make sure. i'm guessing the bat and brake light flickering is not related to my either coil or maf prob. still not sure why the rough idle but was driving again all today xmas shopping and no rough idle? running fine now and has'nt did the rough idle thing since yesterday. man i wish it would just break so i could fix it lol.


[QUOTE=P. Samson]When you drove the car just now and you had the flickering battery and brake lights, did you have any obvious engine missing? I'm confused by the term "tested the connections to the battery". How so? If you haven't already, I sure wish you would (make sure the Ign. switch is OFF) remove both battery connections, make sure the clamps haven't cracked, the

Lontar1

iTrader: (5)

check for a code first even if the light is not on..... check your coils and MAF