707SE

iTrader: (2)

My car sits like this:


I want it to sit and ride like this:






Here's the problem: Any sacrafice of ride quality must be minimal. I don't want to feel like I'm in a race car or riding on the the ground. I don't understand how BMW, Audi and Mercedes have such a great stock suspension and aggressive stance and the ufcking japanese cars look like they are lifted like monster trucks. Some one suggested I upgrade my 18 inch wheels to 19 to reduce the gap. I said no. I just want a great riding car that is smooth but does not look like the front end is on jacks.

I think the back of my max is just about right. Is it possible to only lower the front and leave the rear stock? What are the implications of this?
I have zero knowledge of suspension. Coilovers, struts, etc is all chinese to me. What is the ultimate suspension setup that gives an aggressive lowered look w/o sacraficing ride quality? How can I get the Euro suspension look?
If I can get the above pictured look and maintain a smooth ride I'd be a happy max owner...

crispykid717

iTrader: (7)

Question: How can I get the Euro suspension look?

Answer: Buy a BMW or Audi.

/thread

But seriously, I have learned this lesson the expensive way. You can not have that low of a stance and a butter smooth ride with this car.

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

They have totally different suspension design, so they don't need very stiff springs to resist body roll and fight short suspension travel. They also got much stiffer chassis which allows suspension do a better job absorbing road imperfection and spreading the rest of the energy through the whole body.

It is possible to, partially, "fix" this, but no matter what you do, Maxima will never handle as well as BMW. (given that you have to maintain similar ride quality)

Here's what you can do to noticeably improve handling without virtually any decrease in ride quality: (might even improve the ride)

Using what's already available:

FSTB (stiffens the chassis,) RSB (controls body motion without affecting compression under bumps,) Stage II LTB (stiffen up front subframe and chassis, and helps keeping proper alignment during cornering,) urethane bushings (help keeping proper aliment and make the vehicle more responsive,) urethane motor mounts (make the car feel more solid.)

Using all [reasonably] possible means:

Subframe connectors or a full roll-cage (increase chassis stiffness,) structural foam (also increases stiffness,) longer ball joints (increase control arm angle which results in less body roll)

Regarding the wheel gap, you could install H&R only in the front and keep your stock springs in the rear, but this setup is far not ideal if you are concerned about handling. H&R with Illiminas all around will decrease the wheel gap and improve handling but some people don't like that H&R look a bit lower in the back. Eibach and Illiminas will fix the wheel gap, make a huge affect in handling department, but the ride is ganna get a bit firmer.

Hope this helps

DrKlop

iTrader: (3)

airbags...

turbo_gg

H&R springs are your best bet for a lower ride, without being too harsh. It's the S/U I have, and I'm very happy with it. I'd also recommend Tokico Illuminas, as you can adjust them to suit your preference of firmness (or softness).

Tommy Boy

DrKlop pretty much nailed it!! I have FSTB and RSB and the K-sport coilovers. The car handles great, but at a significant cost to ride quality, so much so that I'm going back to the stock SE suspension for the winter. Too harsh for CT winter roads! The europeans (BMW, Audi, Porsche, Mercedes) spend Millions on chassis development and suspension development. But, you will pay for it! Anyone can make a car achieve certain cornrting "g-number", but it takes alot of engineering R&D (trial and error) to achieve the number and get good ride quality and suspension travel. That's why BMW is consistantly the benchmark just about EVERY other car maker shoots for, and few achieve!