trigger005

iTrader: (8)

updating this thread to give some info

two weeks ago my iacv failed
i didnt know it at the time but could hear a noise that sounded like a whine comming from the engine
this was followed by a p0505 the next time i started the car
being my 1 and only daily driver i drove it with this a high idle of 1500 for a bit over a week every day with an avg of 25 miles a day
bought a new iacv from dave b for $180 and installed it myself yesturday, preparing to have the ecu swapped by dealer today for being fried

to my surprise, the new iacv fixed everything and all fault codes cleared themselves
i left the battery disconnected for about 3 hrs to clear ecu and it seemed to learn idle by itself

during my week+ of driving with the p0505 and bad iacv, p1320 and p0110 ses codes also poped up regularly

the key point of this post is, i was convinced the ecu must also be fried as a result of the iacv being bad, but it doesnt seem like it was. so for anyone who is getting p0505 i would suggest you replace iacv and see if that fixes the problem

Psyfa

iTrader: (3)

^tried it, didn't work

it's weird though because everyone who has this problem said their cars idle at 1000-2000 rpm...mine is at around 700? I don't know if that means my problem is different or not.


However, it looks like I'll have to replace the ecu...anyone know where I can get a good deal on one cause the dealership is trying to charge me some $700. I know someone said car-parts.com...just wondering if anyone's actually ordered an ecu from there and what their experience with it was like.

Maxim24

700 RPM is around the bubble. I think spec is supposed to be 700+/- 50 for AT in P or N.

RiDe DaH MaX

car is having the same issues as the rest of the forum... so wut should i do buy a iacv or just get a new ecu....and if i do get a new ecu how can u tell wut kind should i get

00MAXI

I have the exact same problem as you. Every place I go tells me it's the IACV valve thing. I replaced the MAF 3 years ago and cleaned the throttle body 2 years ago and those things didn't fix it.

bcmfxtrader

yes... i'm a newbie here...but have read through ALOT of various threads to help diagnise my probs. that said...things have changed in the last 12 hours, lol>>> any and all help is welcome !!!

will layout the events in description as they have unfolded over last couple of days ...

2001 maxima se 144k miles... other than normal wear and tear replacements/maintenance over the years, nothing major to speak in regards to break-downs ...

2 days ago ... car operating fine, mid-aftrnoon-warm weather car died/stalled when idling at a stoplight, had to double pedal the brake and gas to keep running. 30 min. later problem gone.

1 day ago ... same thing again, but this time in the morning, cool weather ... BUT, this time it actually did while driving UP a highway on ramp at approx. 15 mph(i had to let off gas to merge into traffic) ... car died when i let off. problem went away... re-emerged later in same day, idling at light. went away again.

today ... car wouldnt start this morning, acted like battery dead, yet, lights/radio, and all auxilliary functions worked. would slowly turn over, after 3-4 attempts, dead...nothing. 7 minutes later it started and warmed right up, no probs. after a 20 mile drive, started stalling again at low idle, had to double pedal it home again.

here is where it gets really weird ... as soon as i got home and turned vehicle off, i decided to take it to autozone and get their free diag test. again ... car wouldnt start, every indication its battery oriented. 3 hours later it fired right up (still had to double pedal to keep it running, though)
drove to autozone... showed the IACV was out (as i expected somewhat after reading this thread)... had him check out battery, its fine, but a little loose on the positive side terminal. tightened it up, car started fine. went and got some gas, car started fine.... came home, turned it off, tried to restart..and NOTHING. cleaned the posts and terminals, even tried jump starting ... still NOTHING.

guy at garage said it sounds like the terminals on the positive side could be corroded down into the "multi-terminal" portion (3 cables into one, with a fuse).... also said i shoud take off the IACV and spray down with B12 chemtool since its already showing up as "bad", said it couldnt hurt, and in his experience has fixed the prob sometime.

the IACV stuff makes sense to me... but whats the deal with the "electrical" starting issues...and why did it start happening directly/indirectly with the idle issue??

sorry this was so long...just wanted to make sure you had all info.

btw...i have relative that has worked at GM for 30 years, said absolutely no reason for me to be using higher octane gas...he has used the lower with no probs. so...my gullable money saving a** decided to start running the regular lowest grade gas (after using premium since i bought this car new in 2001) about 3 weeks ago... could this be a prob too??? mechanic said if no pinging then no prob...but also said "there is a reason the manufacturer tells you to run premium in this car!!"
i switched back to premium today...albiet the car wont start....

PLEASE HELP !!!!!!

thanks !!!!

00MAXI

I found the IACV on Courtesyparts.com for $255

Is that a good deal? Anybody able to get this thing under $200

Group buy?

unrealii

iTrader: (8)

Dave B's price is slightly less. Give him a call.

bcmfxtrader

i checked autozone and napa today ... 193+tax at autozone... about 40 less at napa. autozone does have "price-match" though...check them out