Replaced IACV-AAC Valve, Now My Car Doesn't Start
01-20-2007, 09:46 AM
#81
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 169
Originally Posted by Nismo98
This is going to be second thread since I would like to start out fresh in explaining my problem. So approximately 2 weeks ago I replaced the IAC valve on my 2001 & right after the start my RPMs jumped to 3K. From what I now understand, I should have left the car running for a little while in order to get some warm antifreeze flow hit the valve. Although I turned the car off and double checked all of my work. Same thing happen the second time I cracked the car, RPMs stayed at 3K for about a minute until I shot it off. Next morning the car did not start at all. So today I had a buddy/mechanic come out and take a look at it. None of the new codes came up on the scanner besides the old 0505 which I already knew about. This theory is that I damaged the MAF during the install, or my knock sensor went out because it's now sending a - signal. Could somebody please help me out with this issue, thank you very much in advance for any help what so ever.
Andrei
Andrei
Hey dude if you got a 505 code isc system--you are gonna need an ecm--when you install the iac valve you are suppose to do an Idle Relearn using the consult 2 from nissan. but it has been with my experience that for some reason the iac valve takes the ecm with it--we had a couple of maxima's that would not get rid of that code--installed like 3 iac valves and retested the system and wiring(found that there is continuity and voltage) so if you have a california car your ecm warranty is 8yr 80,000mi
01-20-2007, 10:33 AM
#82
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
The lesson to be learned with all these idle problems in many threads in this forum IS: ANYTIME that you have a WARM idle that is OUT OF LIMITS/UNSTABLE....... deal with it immediately, and unfortunately, unless you know what you are doing, the best way is to get it to a dealer and get it hooked up to a Consult ll. The ECM/IACV being able to maintain the CORRECT warm idle is absolutely critical (not just for "the idle") on these cars, and if this isn't happening then WHATEVER is the problem should be repaired immediately. The inability of the ECM/IACV to maintain the correct idle speed can be caused by other issues other than the ECM/IACV themselves. As I've stated before the IACV has LIMITED TRAVEL. If it is continuously being commanded by the ECM to move in a futile attempt to control the idle speed, and is "bottomed out" because of another issue causing a totally "haywire and uncontrollable idle" for example, then I suspect that this may cause an eventual failure of the IACV and/or the ECM. If the IACV has run out of travel and the ECM cannot control the idle to the programmed "target", that's when I believe the electrical components in this "circuit" can be fried. I suspect it is more "dangerous" for the IACV/ECM circuit if the warm idle is quite a bit higher than the target, because the actual IACV is normally positioned more towards "closed" because the system was designed to expect "higher loads" at idle at times, and therefore the IACV would have to be moved more open by the ECM. This becomes apparent when reading the FSM basic service procedures on this system including the Idle Air Volume Learning etc.
01-20-2007, 11:00 AM
#83
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
The spindle will not run out of travel, it is a digital circut with finite steps governed by the computer. So the scenerio you mention is not the case. Simply the unfused motor fries from coolant leakage then fried the ECU.
01-20-2007, 12:21 PM
#84
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by project240
The spindle will not run out of travel, it is a digital circut with finite steps governed by the computer. So the scenerio you mention is not the case. Simply the unfused motor fries from coolant leakage then fried the ECU.
1) The ecm is causing the IACV to fail, which means the ECU went out first. This is why a 2nd know good IACV did the exact same thing my first did before it died (burning smell!) when it was hooked up to my vehicle! This is the services reps exact words, that the new one had the bad smell when they hooked it up.
2) (Warning...magic bullet theory inside) -
- The IACV first failed, then shorted the ECM...but somehow the ECM now makes a different IACV fail in the exact same way as the 1st did, becuase that's what happens when you fry a computer chip, is it then fights back at what killed it.
I certainly can believe that an ECU can be shorted out, but when the 2nd IACV does the exact same thing the first did, at least to me, lays out exactly what happened!
01-20-2007, 01:41 PM
#85
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"becuase that's what happens when you fry a computer chip, is it then fights back at what killed it." Are you quoting from Sesame Street??
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
01-20-2007, 01:56 PM
#86
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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no offense, but I'm just glad I don't have the same symptoms as you guys...my idle's max is only 1400...and I haven't even done the idle relearn or closed idle position relearn yet...so hopefully it's not my ecu....and I know I don't have a fried IACV which could potentially fry my ecu, as the confirmed the iacv is working and I never unplugged or changed it out when doing my TB swap...it was left in the harness and carefully resting on some wires down below...so I don't have the concern of putting a unknown new or used iacv on my car, it was a confirmed working one that my car came with and idled my car perfectly only 30min before when I had the stock TB on....I'm gonna do p.samsons tips sometime today or 2morrow...
01-20-2007, 03:48 PM
#87
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by project240
"becuase that's what happens when you fry a computer chip, is it then fights back at what killed it." Are you quoting from Sesame Street??
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
Just so it's clear, you opened the can of worms on the insults here, is it really necessary to go there?
Now that being said, I never said is wasn't possible for the IACV to short out the ECM, but that based on the evidence of my case it does not make sense.
If the ECM malfunctions and kills 1 IACV it would make sense that it would do that to another, and another and so on. This was also the dealer that put one in to test it by the way, not my own unit.
If the IACV malfunctions then burns out the section of the ECM that manages the IACV it would then probably not have any signal for the IACV, because that's what happens to microchips when they burn out. For the ECM to survive first being damaged by the IACV to now only send a signal that burns out any IACV that it is hooked to is unlikely.
Computer modules can and do fail on their own, and I have seen it hundreds of times.
While each scenario is possible, which make sense, and which one is improbable based on the facts.
If you believe that an ECM cannot fail and destory a component that it controls that is fine. I on the other hand, believe that it can. And I have supporting evidence based on my personal experience, and now this incident can be added to that evidence.
01-20-2007, 04:42 PM
#88
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 169
Originally Posted by project240
"becuase that's what happens when you fry a computer chip, is it then fights back at what killed it." Are you quoting from Sesame Street??
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
You put a new IAVC on an ECU that was fried and shorted, which then shorted your new IACV motor. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_chicken_or_the_egg
In my case I was able to scan the IAC and monitor the steps of the motor while the ECU was fried.
You have been really unlucky and had a very bad short.
Our problem here is that the line is not fused. The thin gauge of wires between the ECU and IACV motor and the harnesses all become subject to collateral damage.
01-20-2007, 05:23 PM
#89
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
I'll try again. Most of these are NOT caused by coolant leakage, and a dead short in any one of the four motor windings should blow the main power supply 15 amp.fuse (#58). I cannot speak about any current limiters in the "control" circuits of the ECM. There may be current limiters, but maybe they can only take so much and therein lies the problem? The ECM supplies current to operate the IACV motor windings to operate it and move the valve in or out as/if required to control the idle, then that current is "cutoff" by the ECM, but a current is then supplied by the ECM to "hold" the motor and valve in that position. What I still think may be happening is that if the ECM, for WHATEVER reason, keeps trying to move the IACV and therfore CONTINUOUSLY supplies the "operating current" to the motor windings, then either the IACV fails and/or the ECM circuit fries. AND if you don't make damn sure that you have a serviceable IACV AND ECM on the next repair process.......then possibly BLAMO! again. The actual IACV "valve" can only physically move (be moved) within the limits of the TB passage or port that it is located in. If ANYTHING on the TB including the throttle idle stop, the actual position of the throttle plate in the TB bore (the throttle plate should be "effectively fully closed" at idle) or the TPS gets disturbed and subsequently not adjusted properly, then the "idle" can be so far "out of range" that the ECM/IACV physically cannot control it. When everything is "correct" the ECM/IACV can control the idle to spec., no matter what idle loads are applied to the engine, and the idle no load Consult ll IACV "steps" should be 2 - 10.
01-20-2007, 07:41 PM
#90
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
Insult? Cmon. It was a joke. Don't be so sensitive MAN.
I have just had my tech mechanic (Kev) review my scenerio. My scenerio is that there ECU reads my IAC values because there are very different sections of control on the ECU. Kev stated that he can alter the readings by probing the 2 wires on the 6 pin IACV motor harness. Kev also states that this is a process that takes months to burn out the motor and slow cook the ECU.
Kev states that the "power management" of the IACV motor is shot but can read position data from the new motor even though the "IACV control" is shot. Im an amatuer electrician at best, so to completly understand what data comes from where is beyond me, buy Kev has this all figured out so he says. I can hook up a scanner myself and clearly see communication with IACV motor with the current fried ECU shown in the photos above.
I showed your post to Kev and he's willing to wager that if you check the chamber of the IACV motor you'll discover corrosion or signs of coolant. We believe that this is the source of the problem and these are MY facts. You may have a different problem but we doubt it. What I do know 100% for all of us is that all this really sucks and I hope this helps other people save some time in their diagnosis. This problem is taking up far too much of my time.
I have just had my tech mechanic (Kev) review my scenerio. My scenerio is that there ECU reads my IAC values because there are very different sections of control on the ECU. Kev stated that he can alter the readings by probing the 2 wires on the 6 pin IACV motor harness. Kev also states that this is a process that takes months to burn out the motor and slow cook the ECU.
Kev states that the "power management" of the IACV motor is shot but can read position data from the new motor even though the "IACV control" is shot. Im an amatuer electrician at best, so to completly understand what data comes from where is beyond me, buy Kev has this all figured out so he says. I can hook up a scanner myself and clearly see communication with IACV motor with the current fried ECU shown in the photos above.
I showed your post to Kev and he's willing to wager that if you check the chamber of the IACV motor you'll discover corrosion or signs of coolant. We believe that this is the source of the problem and these are MY facts. You may have a different problem but we doubt it. What I do know 100% for all of us is that all this really sucks and I hope this helps other people save some time in their diagnosis. This problem is taking up far too much of my time.
01-20-2007, 08:06 PM
#91
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
"I'll try again. Most of these are NOT caused by coolant leakage, and a dead short in any one of the four motor windings should blow the main power supply 15 amp.fuse (#58)."
I'm sorry man but the fuse here is the IC in the ECU.
"a current is then supplied by the ECM to "hold" the motor and valve in that position"
The circut is on or off. Probe your harness.
I'll take detailed photos of the IACV and inside IACV motor in the next few days.
I'm sorry man but the fuse here is the IC in the ECU.
"a current is then supplied by the ECM to "hold" the motor and valve in that position"
The circut is on or off. Probe your harness.
I'll take detailed photos of the IACV and inside IACV motor in the next few days.
01-20-2007, 08:19 PM
#92
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
Hey...it's cool, I'm just angry at my car, not anyone here and I definitely appreciate everyones input and help! But I will definitely keep my IACV and inspect it...while I have not seen any leaks out of my car..of course that doens't me they aren't there. But the dealer has twice in the last 2 months had their consult hooked up to my car, 1st time to diagnose my low mpg--they said to replace MAF. 2nd time to flash the MAF...so seeing that other members (unless they are lying) have had their ECM damaged/destroyed by dealers in the past, I am more likely to go with what makes sense -to me!- in this case.
At least my car is drivable right now since I have a manual transmission, it just has a surging idle, and looses it's low rpm control. If the throttle position was a range from 0-100, it has no 1-19, so when driving if I am in gear it will push if I am under 2k rpm or so, and does not have the ability to smoothly control the power there. Above 2k it is normal up to at least 4k, but haven't really pushed it since it's not tip top right now.
I am going to follow the steps outlined in this document to challenge them denying me warrany coverage.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt
I will report the results as they come in. I will speak to the service manager Monday.
At least my car is drivable right now since I have a manual transmission, it just has a surging idle, and looses it's low rpm control. If the throttle position was a range from 0-100, it has no 1-19, so when driving if I am in gear it will push if I am under 2k rpm or so, and does not have the ability to smoothly control the power there. Above 2k it is normal up to at least 4k, but haven't really pushed it since it's not tip top right now.
I am going to follow the steps outlined in this document to challenge them denying me warrany coverage.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/warr95fs.txt
I will report the results as they come in. I will speak to the service manager Monday.
01-20-2007, 10:27 PM
#93
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 933
project240.......if you somehow have/had coolant in the idle air passage of the TB, that is a separate issue I believe from most other cars here. We would have been hearing more about coolant drips etc. from the TB. You must have corrosion or a pin-hole defect in the TB casting. I think you may have a "stand alone" case. Your TB should be chucked by the sound of it. With the engine running at idle and all connectors connected, probing ECM terminals 6, 7, 8, and 17 and ground or obviously IACV terminals 1, 4, 3, and 6 and ground should give you .1 - 14 volts. NOT Zero. I am parroting this from the FSM. The motor windings resistance at "room temp." between IACV terminals 2 & 1, 2 & 3 and 5 & 4, 5 & 6 should be "about" 22 ohms, per the FSM. With the ignition switch ON, there should be battery voltage from the ECM relay at IACV connector terminals 2 and 5, which I'm sure you've figured out already. Maybe this will help you. The description of operation of the ECM/IACV that I stated above is also out of the FSM, but is pretty basic to similar systems in other cars. There has to be "feedback" back to the ECM so that the ECM knows where the IACV is, and there has to be a way to hold the IACV "valve" in position once it has been moved. Pretty standard stuff.
01-21-2007, 11:09 AM
#94
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
Originally Posted by hallrg5
I have seen a bad IACV cook a new computer in a matter of seconds. There is nothing slow about it. If you don't believe me and can afford it, put a new computer in your car with a bad IACV and try to start it. You'll hear a pop from the computer and an electrical smell within a matter of seconds (or at least I did).
Oh and by the way, make sure you keep your faulty IACV after it has been replaced.
Oh and by the way, make sure you keep your faulty IACV after it has been replaced.
That all makes sense, I wrote it wrong initially, It was supposed to read that the motor burns out slowly. Also the TB isn't the IACV it is the IACV that leaks so I don't know why you'd tell me to junk my TB. But anyways, I'll let you all know in the next few days how this all works out as ECU is on the way.
01-21-2007, 01:21 PM
#95
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2
I bought a '00 max a couple months ago and had no problems until last week. The cel came on about a week ago but there was no change in the way the car ran or idled. One cold morning, the car took a while to start then ran for a while until the idle dropped then stalled out. It started a couple times after that, ideled rough then died. Now, it won't start at all. It cranks fine, but won't fire. I searched the forums and thought it might be the MAF, so I went ahead and replaced that...no change, the car still won't fire. Any suggestions on what the problem could be? It seems like the next step is to clean the tb or replace the iacv, is this right? Any help would be appreciated, as i am new to maximas.
01-21-2007, 05:14 PM
#96
Originally Posted by hallrg5
I am having this same problem with my 01 max. A tech has told me that this is a defective part (IACV and ECU) but that Nissan will not own up to it. This could be very dangerous as the car will shut off and lock up while going down the road. I am an attorney and am currently researching a class action against Nissan for this product. Let me know if you would be interested in joining.
Scottlwa@hotmail.com
Scottlwa@hotmail.com
Andrei
01-21-2007, 07:11 PM
#97
Originally Posted by hallrg5
I have been an attorney for six years and have practiced primarily business litigation. I am actually teaching business law now. I have just learned (last week) of this electrical defect as I own a 2001 Maxima and was informed by a Nissan tech of the problem when my ECU went bad. Apparently, these dealerships see several of these a week.
From the short amount of research I have been able to do, it seems that this defect can cause serious injury as the ECU can cause the steering and brakes to lock up while going down the road. According to some electrical engineers I have talked to, there should be a fuse of some type that would not allow the IACV to fry the computer. This would keep the vehicle from locking up. According to them, this would be an easy fix for Nissan and should be recalled as such.
Anyway, I have contacted several class action attorneys to discuss the case. We will need several class members to certify the class. I have already been contacted by many Maxima owners in the last 24 hours that have experienced these problems, so that shouldn't be a problem. We just need to find a firm that can afford the litigation.
From the short amount of research I have been able to do, it seems that this defect can cause serious injury as the ECU can cause the steering and brakes to lock up while going down the road. According to some electrical engineers I have talked to, there should be a fuse of some type that would not allow the IACV to fry the computer. This would keep the vehicle from locking up. According to them, this would be an easy fix for Nissan and should be recalled as such.
Anyway, I have contacted several class action attorneys to discuss the case. We will need several class members to certify the class. I have already been contacted by many Maxima owners in the last 24 hours that have experienced these problems, so that shouldn't be a problem. We just need to find a firm that can afford the litigation.
Andrei
01-21-2007, 07:42 PM
#98
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 14
How long do class actions suits take from start to finish in a case like this?
Once this problem is fixed I'm dumping this Maxima as fast as I can. Once Japanese vehicles start to fail they become money pits.
My point is that I will not have this vehicle in few months and in that case I probably wouldn't be of any help to the group.
Once this problem is fixed I'm dumping this Maxima as fast as I can. Once Japanese vehicles start to fail they become money pits.
My point is that I will not have this vehicle in few months and in that case I probably wouldn't be of any help to the group.
01-22-2007, 10:48 AM
#99
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Posts: 14
In Canada:
1-800-333-0510 or (613)993-9851
http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/tp/tp2822/page4_e.htm
Nissan Canada
1-800-387-0122
1-800-333-0510 or (613)993-9851
http://www.tc.gc.ca/roadsafety/tp/tp2822/page4_e.htm
Nissan Canada
1-800-387-0122
01-23-2007, 11:33 AM
#100
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
Talked to "Regional Nissan Service" today. I first spoke with Sheryl, who took down my information and then transferred me to "Mark". Apparently Mark doesn't know very much, becuase he kept insisting that the ECM was not covered by any Nissan warranty at my mileage. Even the dealer (Round Rock Nissan) said that becuase my ECM was damaged it may be eligable for the Federal Emissions Warranty. I will have to call back and attempt speak with someone that actually has knowledge of the warranty so at least we can get past that. He also refused to give me in writing the reason he was denying my warranty claim. Not a very productive call. I am probably going to go ahead and at least get this fixed, since she doens't drive so good right now. (b/c I have a manual it still goes, but has a surging idle). And worry about recovering the costs later.
I used this number given to me by RR Nissan: (800) 258-7008
I used this number given to me by RR Nissan: (800) 258-7008
01-24-2007, 07:30 AM
#101
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Posts: 2
I Need Help!!!
I know this is off the current topic of this thread, But I need some advice. I posted a while back in the thread about my car stalling, then not starting. I live in albany Ny and have to park on the street so I don't can't really work on my car that much. I brought my car into the dealership because It wouldn't start at all. They told me that it was flooded and two coils were bad. After reading all the posts about coils, I told them to go ahead and replace all of them.
I just got a call from them and apparently, the fuel pump/regulator voltage is spiking and making the car idle horribly and even stall. The guy at the dealership told me that they had to replace the fuel pump and regulator at a cost of $600 more than the $1000 I already paid to get the coils/plugs etc. done.
I replaced the MAF before I brought the car in hoping that it would fix the problem to no avail. Could installing the new MAF w/o getting the car reflashed be causing this? Or could it be something else sending a signal to the fuel system causing it to spike?
If you have any suggestions please let me know. This is killing me to pay this much to have simple work done. PLEASE HELP!!!!
I just got a call from them and apparently, the fuel pump/regulator voltage is spiking and making the car idle horribly and even stall. The guy at the dealership told me that they had to replace the fuel pump and regulator at a cost of $600 more than the $1000 I already paid to get the coils/plugs etc. done.
I replaced the MAF before I brought the car in hoping that it would fix the problem to no avail. Could installing the new MAF w/o getting the car reflashed be causing this? Or could it be something else sending a signal to the fuel system causing it to spike?
If you have any suggestions please let me know. This is killing me to pay this much to have simple work done. PLEASE HELP!!!!
01-24-2007, 09:18 AM
#102
Originally Posted by bluesteel
I know this is off the current topic of this thread, But I need some advice. I posted a while back in the thread about my car stalling, then not starting. I live in albany Ny and have to park on the street so I don't can't really work on my car that much. I brought my car into the dealership because It wouldn't start at all. They told me that it was flooded and two coils were bad. After reading all the posts about coils, I told them to go ahead and replace all of them.
I just got a call from them and apparently, the fuel pump/regulator voltage is spiking and making the car idle horribly and even stall. The guy at the dealership told me that they had to replace the fuel pump and regulator at a cost of $600 more than the $1000 I already paid to get the coils/plugs etc. done.
I replaced the MAF before I brought the car in hoping that it would fix the problem to no avail. Could installing the new MAF w/o getting the car reflashed be causing this? Or could it be something else sending a signal to the fuel system causing it to spike?
If you have any suggestions please let me know. This is killing me to pay this much to have simple work done. PLEASE HELP!!!!
I just got a call from them and apparently, the fuel pump/regulator voltage is spiking and making the car idle horribly and even stall. The guy at the dealership told me that they had to replace the fuel pump and regulator at a cost of $600 more than the $1000 I already paid to get the coils/plugs etc. done.
I replaced the MAF before I brought the car in hoping that it would fix the problem to no avail. Could installing the new MAF w/o getting the car reflashed be causing this? Or could it be something else sending a signal to the fuel system causing it to spike?
If you have any suggestions please let me know. This is killing me to pay this much to have simple work done. PLEASE HELP!!!!
01-25-2007, 04:55 PM
#104
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
My ECM and IACV will be replaced tomorrow. I will check the IACV for leakage and expect to see my ECM looking similar to the previous post. Dave B is hooking me up with some good prices on the parts (for New ones), and I should be back in business by Saturday morning at the latest. Will report my findings hopefully by this Sunday.
02-02-2007, 09:24 PM
#105
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Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
Greetings from Down Under! A note to let you guys know that I own a late 2001 Nissan Maxima A33 series auto with the 3 litre motor. Bought it S/H with 85,000 km (53,000 miles) on it. At 115,000 Km (72,000 miles) it did just as described in the thread, idling at minimum 2000 rpm.
I took it to my local auto. shop and after much searching found that the IACV and the ECU were both fried. Replaced both of them at great expense ($A1700) and have now travelled 6000 km (3750 miles) more and it has done it all again! The mechanic is having difficulty getting parts and he thinks that lots of this model is having the same problem here.
My guy has consulted with the local Nissan dealer who is pretty vague about it all. Does he know something we don't?
Some sort of summary on the principal things to check after replacing the IACV and ECU would assist greatly. Do we put extra fuses in the system, check travel on the adjustments, check for water leaks etc?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
I took it to my local auto. shop and after much searching found that the IACV and the ECU were both fried. Replaced both of them at great expense ($A1700) and have now travelled 6000 km (3750 miles) more and it has done it all again! The mechanic is having difficulty getting parts and he thinks that lots of this model is having the same problem here.
My guy has consulted with the local Nissan dealer who is pretty vague about it all. Does he know something we don't?
Some sort of summary on the principal things to check after replacing the IACV and ECU would assist greatly. Do we put extra fuses in the system, check travel on the adjustments, check for water leaks etc?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
02-03-2007, 01:50 AM
#106
Originally Posted by nswnotill
Greetings from Down Under! A note to let you guys know that I own a late 2001 Nissan Maxima A33 series auto with the 3 litre motor. Bought it S/H with 85,000 km (53,000 miles) on it. At 115,000 Km (72,000 miles) it did just as described in the thread, idling at minimum 2000 rpm.
I took it to my local auto. shop and after much searching found that the IACV and the ECU were both fried. Replaced both of them at great expense ($A1700) and have now travelled 6000 km (3750 miles) more and it has done it all again! The mechanic is having difficulty getting parts and he thinks that lots of this model is having the same problem here.
My guy has consulted with the local Nissan dealer who is pretty vague about it all. Does he know something we don't?
Some sort of summary on the principal things to check after replacing the IACV and ECU would assist greatly. Do we put extra fuses in the system, check travel on the adjustments, check for water leaks etc?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
I took it to my local auto. shop and after much searching found that the IACV and the ECU were both fried. Replaced both of them at great expense ($A1700) and have now travelled 6000 km (3750 miles) more and it has done it all again! The mechanic is having difficulty getting parts and he thinks that lots of this model is having the same problem here.
My guy has consulted with the local Nissan dealer who is pretty vague about it all. Does he know something we don't?
Some sort of summary on the principal things to check after replacing the IACV and ECU would assist greatly. Do we put extra fuses in the system, check travel on the adjustments, check for water leaks etc?
Any assistance greatly appreciated.
Andrei
02-04-2007, 05:24 PM
#109
Originally Posted by michaelnyden
well not necessarily...don't jump to that conclusion yet...if you are doing the idle air volume learn without the consult II...there is a good chance that you are actually not incurring the learn process...it is a very touchy procedure to induce without the consult II...the best way to do it is use the consult II at a dealership if possible as that way you can make sure it is initiating the procedure....
also, I have to think there is some kind of fuse so the ecu wouldn't fry in between...as if the ecu was fried, wouldn't everything else not work...car wouldn't run/drive, etc. and why would a brand new iacv fry the ecu anyway?
also, I have to think there is some kind of fuse so the ecu wouldn't fry in between...as if the ecu was fried, wouldn't everything else not work...car wouldn't run/drive, etc. and why would a brand new iacv fry the ecu anyway?
Symptoms... Car hunts for idle and idles high all the time.
Code PO505 stored. Fix is... replace IACV first if idle is still high and code po505 is still setting replace ECU. Ya it sucks but it happens..
02-05-2007, 08:32 AM
#110
Supporting Maxima.org Member
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 3,431
wait...if the ecu is fried, then you won't want to put a new iacv in...won't the fried ecu fry the new iacv...so the only way to do it would be to replace both at the same time?
02-05-2007, 10:40 AM
#111
Originally Posted by michaelnyden
wait...if the ecu is fried, then you won't want to put a new iacv in...won't the fried ecu fry the new iacv...so the only way to do it would be to replace both at the same time?
02-07-2007, 10:38 PM
#113
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 21
Originally Posted by monty31
The IACV fries the ECU when it goes, not the other way around.
I have gone through the process of talking with Nissans "Customer Care", and they are going to finally mail to me in writing why they are denying me warranty covearge. I will either be taking this to the AG filing as a deceptive practice or to the EPA...it looks like going to the AG will provide quicker results.
My manual specifically states: (page 6)
(under the heading "WHAT IS NOT COVERED"
"In the case of the Defects Warranty, parts not supplied by Nissan or damage to other parts caused directly by non-Nissan parts"
This specifically states that they will only deny coverage in this type of event if there is a non-Nissan part which caused the failure. Becuase of that statement, the whole argument of how it failed is completly worthless because it doens't matter as long as the parts are original Nissan parts.
02-08-2007, 01:41 PM
#114
Originally Posted by ABC
This is not always the case. When I had my vehicle at the dealer they did not have an ECM available, just an IACV. When they put the KGU (known good unit) IACV in the vehicle "it began to make a bad smell". They had to disconnect it to prevent it from burning out. This printed on my receipt and on record from the diagnosis I had done.
I have gone through the process of talking with Nissans "Customer Care", and they are going to finally mail to me in writing why they are denying me warranty covearge. I will either be taking this to the AG filing as a deceptive practice or to the EPA...it looks like going to the AG will provide quicker results.
My manual specifically states: (page 6)
(under the heading "WHAT IS NOT COVERED"
"In the case of the Defects Warranty, parts not supplied by Nissan or damage to other parts caused directly by non-Nissan parts"
This specifically states that they will only deny coverage in this type of event if there is a non-Nissan part which caused the failure. Becuase of that statement, the whole argument of how it failed is completly worthless because it doens't matter as long as the parts are original Nissan parts.
I have gone through the process of talking with Nissans "Customer Care", and they are going to finally mail to me in writing why they are denying me warranty covearge. I will either be taking this to the AG filing as a deceptive practice or to the EPA...it looks like going to the AG will provide quicker results.
My manual specifically states: (page 6)
(under the heading "WHAT IS NOT COVERED"
"In the case of the Defects Warranty, parts not supplied by Nissan or damage to other parts caused directly by non-Nissan parts"
This specifically states that they will only deny coverage in this type of event if there is a non-Nissan part which caused the failure. Becuase of that statement, the whole argument of how it failed is completly worthless because it doens't matter as long as the parts are original Nissan parts.
03-14-2007, 01:59 PM
#115
Newbie - Just Registered
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 12
Sorry to bump this old thread, but I to have the P0505 code. At first the idle would surge and hunt, after a few days it now just idles low and I can't get it to run unless i give it gas, and drive 2 footed(A/T). I will take it to the dealership because I already exhasted all cheap solutions ie clean TB/IACV, replace MAF. If you got any other advice please post. Also is there a tool to get the fuses out somewhere inthe car? My IACV did not make any noise (after ON, OFF)and it was suggested to check fuse.
03-17-2007, 12:35 PM
#117
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 17
Won't idle at all
I'm having the exact same situation as you, Rhegaana. Earlier this week, I started getting the hunting idle problem -- it would rev up and down steadily from about 1100-2200rpm. On Friday, it wouldn't idle at all. I have to constantly stay on the gas or it will stall out. Gas mileage has dropped quite a bit too.
I've recently replaced my MAF and PCV valve, and I've checked all the fuses. Haven't touched my TB or IACV. Based on what everyone else in this thread says, it sounds like my IACV is shot, and maybe the ECM.
I'll most likely go to the dealership next week, so I'll post my results here.
Any advice would be welcome and appreciated.
I've recently replaced my MAF and PCV valve, and I've checked all the fuses. Haven't touched my TB or IACV. Based on what everyone else in this thread says, it sounds like my IACV is shot, and maybe the ECM.
I'll most likely go to the dealership next week, so I'll post my results here.
Any advice would be welcome and appreciated.
Originally Posted by Rhegaana
Sorry to bump this old thread, but I to have the P0505 code. At first the idle would surge and hunt, after a few days it now just idles low and I can't get it to run unless i give it gas, and drive 2 footed(A/T). I will take it to the dealership because I already exhasted all cheap solutions ie clean TB/IACV, replace MAF. If you got any other advice please post. Also is there a tool to get the fuses out somewhere inthe car? My IACV did not make any noise (after ON, OFF)and it was suggested to check fuse.
05-07-2007, 12:47 PM
#119
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 18
heres my problem the other day my car stalled out on my and wouldnt start again so after i had it towed home (my luck it happened on a sunday no shops open ) next day i finally got it to stay on after giving it gas and got it to the shop then i get there it wouldnt start again . so i leave and they check it and tell me that its thrwoing a PO505 and that they say the Service bulletin that said it might be the harness and that they would need another hour of diagnostics to check the harness, well i agreed and got a call after and was told that the harness was fined and that it the ECU that was bad and they told me to take it to NIssan cus it was under the 8year 80,000mile warranty . So i take it to the SteAler and they first they tell me that it needs a new engine harness 2300$ for it so even though i had told them when i dropped it off that i had the car check and told that it wasnt the engine harness but the ECU so after arguing with them i got the to agree to put a new ECU but now im wondering after readin some of your post if when they put the new ECU will the AICvalve burn the new ECU again ????????????