well i decided that i was bored today and go shopping for all the stuff i needed for the maxima with the header install coming up... after i bought em... i had nuttin else to do and started taking things apart... ohhh wat a p.i.a. that rear manifold is... but thats not the main problem... i will post pics soon about this unforseen problems... ok lets begin with the headers... now quite naturally wen u first take ur stock ones off u'll notice from under ur hood that the o2 sensor is located on passenger side just about towards the center of the radiator, well the new headers is wayyy down below... i had to reroute the harness and the o2 sensor for it to reach considering that the o2 sensors wires are short...

second is the rear header well the o2 sensor port is a problem again... if ever worked on ur axle shafts... that driver side pops into place but the passenger side axle slides in and bolts up into this plate that secures it... well that plate and my o2 sensor are about give or take a width of a credit card not even... and it was short as well i had to tug soem of it out and mind you the headers are not tightened up yet they are just on there with a nut on couple of threads

so here comes the last issue i noticed before i called it quits for tonite... the y pipe... well u know the loop around for the y pipe for the rear manifold... well the way i look at is i paid 800+ for this system and i don't think i want oil from my oil pan to pour all over wen i change my oil...

this is enuff for now... i think im just tired and im rambling around with word rite now... goodnite

pics will be posted up early morning

 

This is nothing new. See here:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=455513

Those are not "problems", IMO, but more like adjustments that are necessary for you to take advantage of well designed headers. I think the design makes sense because there is no way to have long tubes and retain the stock location of the primaries. You want the bungs located where all 3 tubes meet and not on just one tube. If the bungs were on one tube just to save you the hassle of extending the O2s, you'd only be reading the flow from one cylinder as opposed to one complete bank. I'm sure Brian and many other would agree with me on this.

The oil draining issue may be a problem depending on how you handle things. Yes, the oil flow may hit the y-pipe initially, but you can always use a funnel like I do and not have any issues whatsoever. Even if you get oil on the y-pipe it'll just burn off with a little driving anyway.

 

I would not call them "problems" either...

The front o2 sensor should only be a problem on the 3.5's since they have shorter wires, my primary is already on the bottom of the engine bay without having to lenghten it.

The oil drain problem is easily fixed with a funnel...

 

I use a length of 4" pvc pipe to direct oil right where I want it.

 

Like other's have said, those are "minor" problems, although I understand how you're feeling when you say you pay so much you'd like a simple bolt on. Let us know how you tackle those problems down, this could be helpful towards future/waiting CP customers. Good luck.

 

.

 

These "problems" have already been tackled by everyone else with Gen 1 and Gen 2 Cattman headers: you extend the primary sensors either by diverting the wiring from the main harness or by cutting and soldering. There's a little more info in the link I posted too.

And about paying so much for a simple bolt on, what you pay for is the quality and the design of the part. These headers are well designed and fit perfectly. The primary O2 issue is a small adjustment to make for some good headers. For what these headers are in terms of performance and fit, it is as simple a bolt on as you're going to get. If you want to play the hp game, its not going to get easier than this.

 

well to be totally honest... installation wasn't as bad... but i highly recommend using some ratcheting wrenches... u'll no wen it comes time to put the bolts and nuts up on the headers u'll wonder hey i used sockets for these and now a socket won't fit throo mainly the row in the bottom... i have some eccentric tools for hard to reach places and still nothing so the ratcheting wrenches are a plus and once ur close to tightening .... double wrench it for more leverage... other than that i just tightened up the front manifold and bout to work on the rear manifold and installing the crossmember... so more updates later on today...

 

Seriously, not to be an 'ass', but who doesn't use ratcheting devices, especially for a FWD header install?

 

well not alot of people have ratcheting wrenches cuz they are quite expensive... least over 100 bucks easy... ohh on the other note the headers are installed checked for leaks by using some seafoam to see if any escaped... and that turned out to be good... on the other hand i screwed up on something.... on my crossmember... theres 2 bolts in the front and 2 in the rear where it mounts up to the body... i broke one of em off... completely due to over tightening them... any suggestions...

 

drill it out and rethread the hole. buy a new bolt

 

These are the new Cattman headers correct?

Seriously header installation is simple. You remove the front fan to install the front manifold - easy.

You have to take off the motor mount bracket and EGR parts to install the rear manifold - a little harder.

Then you have to install the y-pipe after that and then the flex pipe. - simple.


it really isnt that hard.


pix would help us visualize the problem.

 

You can get a nice set of ratcheting wrenches for way under $100.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-A...67740619QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-A...67740619QQrdZ1

http://cgi.ebay.com/GM-GoodWrench-7p...QQcmdZViewItem

I bought a set of GearWrench brand flex head ratcheting wrenches for around $60.00. I don't know how I got along without them for so many years. Every toolbox should have a good set of ratcheting wrenches.

 

 

i have the gle so i turned off the tcs and freaking think chirped first to second and second to third... pretty gooooood feelin...

 

 

I like the commentary on the second vid.

 

What kind of tires do you have

 

toyo proxes fz6 or suttin

 

me.

I use

 

 

damn if your auto chirps 3rd then your tires must be pretty bad...thats assuming u dont have vb and dr mods

 

sounds just like my cattmangz! niiice!

 

nope brand new tires... no dr mod or a vb mod...

 

and it chirped into 3rd... i attempted to do it again but no luck but first to second no problem

 

sick sounding..

 

I LOVE THE SOUND!!!!!!!!!!!!if I get the same headers, Kabir would you give me ahand with it? wont be till late spring though, beers and food will be on me, sound good?
do you notice any performance differences?

 

do i...? my friend who usuallly drive around with me lol ended up using the seat belt in the back seat lol it does have a huge kick to it... and sure wen ever u want to get yours done... i'll def give u a hand lol

 

what exhaust is on the car?>

 

full cattman and i replaced the cat with a test pipe

 

Hmmm, how come it did not pop and backfire like stevens? His sounded more "raw"?

 

.... 3.5 maybe?

 

ahh you have a 3.0? sounds pretty mean for one if you ask me....my boy has a 3.0 with full cattmangz but its a ypipe instead of headers...sounds more milid than yours...

 

soon to come my man! i just need the garage to myself.

happy new years!

 

happy new years! that avatar is making me hungry

 

haha mee too... funny thing is i was jus playing starcraft haha

 

Hang on, I'm confused, both KabirUTA13 and steven88 have 3.5s, but the exhaust sounds different even with same components, where is the rasp and popping and whatnot?

 

he has a 3.0

 

Ohhh I see, I thought he had a 5.5gen from his sig.

 

don't get fooled by the headlights lol i have the 3.0