Alternator voltage regulator?
#1
Alternator voltage regulator?
So the bearings on my high output alternator are completely gone...
was putting the stock one back in today [quite a pita]
Finally got it in .. after figuring out how to splice the molex type connector in [previous owner did HO alt install]
The stock one doesn't seem to be putting anything out at all. Testing the connectors, it is an open circuit. I'm pretty sure the voltage regulator burned out, so I want to replace it.
Any idea where I can buy a new one?
I called autozone/pepboys/strauss with no luck.
Thanks.
was putting the stock one back in today [quite a pita]
Finally got it in .. after figuring out how to splice the molex type connector in [previous owner did HO alt install]
The stock one doesn't seem to be putting anything out at all. Testing the connectors, it is an open circuit. I'm pretty sure the voltage regulator burned out, so I want to replace it.
Any idea where I can buy a new one?
I called autozone/pepboys/strauss with no luck.
Thanks.
#2
Try an alternator/starter rebuild outfit listed in the yellow pages. They MAY sell you a rebuild kit or the regulator if available, but it may pay you to have them rebuild/exchange it. Are you sure you've sorted out the connector?
#4
Sorry I didn't make myself clear. The alternator requlator is INTEGRAL with the alternator. It looks for the battery voltage (input to the alternator) from the harness connecter pin 3 and from that it controls the voltage output to the battery. I'm sure the dealer will only have the new alternator for big bucks. Rebuild outfits that do rebuilds get parts/kits from the alternator manufacturers/suppliers/parts suppliers such as new bearings, diode packs and regulators for the more common alternators such as Hitachi which I think this one is.
#6
Yes that's it. You're not old enough like me to remember when voltage regulators were separate units bolted to the firewall or inner fender (before the '80s). The lack of output could also be due to the diode pack or the slip rings. I'm sure these parts can be replaced because the rebuilders do it, but for you to do it, is it economic?
#7
it's cheaper to replace the regulator myself than buy a new alternator right lol?
Is there any other ways for me to test what exactly is wrong with it?
I used the nissan FSM.. and found that when grounding the L, the batt light went on.. which leads me to think its the voltage reg.
Is there any other ways for me to test what exactly is wrong with it?
I used the nissan FSM.. and found that when grounding the L, the batt light went on.. which leads me to think its the voltage reg.
#9
take the thing to an alternator shop and tell them what you've found. generally they are pretty cheap on servicing one that you've got out and torn down already... I thought mine was about gone once and dropped it off at a place to test the diode pack and V reg. turns out the brushes were almost completely worn out and one was only touching occasionally. the alternator shop put new brushes in and charged me $10.
As for diagnostics on yours, you really can't do that much without some more equipment. also realize that the alternator needs an energizing field current fed to it before it starts outputting voltage. aftermarket HO alternators may not need it- not sure on the newer ones... but if your wiring harness was damaged or mis-wired from the molex connector and whatnot, you may be feeding the wrong terminal the wrong voltage and the thing may not be working because of it.
best thing to do is to put it back together and take it to a place that has the proper equipment to test it. (local parts stores at least have an alternator/starter check station with the proper plugs.. they can test it on the bench and tell you if it's working or not).
the other thing, which is what I would do-- replace the bearings on your HO alternator and put it back in.
As for diagnostics on yours, you really can't do that much without some more equipment. also realize that the alternator needs an energizing field current fed to it before it starts outputting voltage. aftermarket HO alternators may not need it- not sure on the newer ones... but if your wiring harness was damaged or mis-wired from the molex connector and whatnot, you may be feeding the wrong terminal the wrong voltage and the thing may not be working because of it.
best thing to do is to put it back together and take it to a place that has the proper equipment to test it. (local parts stores at least have an alternator/starter check station with the proper plugs.. they can test it on the bench and tell you if it's working or not).
the other thing, which is what I would do-- replace the bearings on your HO alternator and put it back in.
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