Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

Sorry if this is wrong spot and what not.

But I am in serious need and I know how smart all of you guys are
I will be your slave for a day if you can help :P

Ok, I have a 2002 Maxi SE, about 77K miles, 6 speed.
I bought it about 9 months ago with 70K. I have used mobil 1 syn and mobil 1 filters and have changed it twice. The current miles on this change is about 2,500. It has ran perfect, quiet and smooth all the way to redline. It has never been in accident and engine appeared to have been taken care of well.

Here's the bad news: I drove to school like normal (which is a hardcore 6 miles, city traffic with ***** out driving on part). No problem as usual (man I love nissan engines!). Everything seems normal. I get out of class and start her up, still normal. Get goin on the major road and notice a loss of torque, but engine is still purring. This is where I become retarded. I keep driving since it's not that far and figure I can make it back. There was no lights being shown and I know she's touchy when it comes to the sensors, so I think I'll be fine. I get up to speed after a couple miles and the torque drops out, engine overheats and stalls in a matter of seconds and it's basically done. I have it towed to my (not so local) repair guys. They said it only had 2.5 Quarts of oil and runs, but has a bad lower end knock in it, so they basically said I'm fooked and need a new engine. I'll admit, I don't always check the oil often, but cmon! Not very many miles, with no leaks of any kind and she runs of out oil. I'm a little fumed.
Oh, no warning lights came on at all, even when the engine died. And the last thing I did to the car was just add a high flow air filter, b/c the sucking noise is awesome. I've heard about the oil burning problem on some 3.5s, but last oil change it hadn't used but maybe 1 quart. I have a very bad memory, so I guess I forgot about the oil thing.

So, I'm wondering if there is any hope for this engine, or do I have to shell out 800 bucks for a cheap used engine and pay over a thousand dollars to get it swapped in? I can't say that I've heard of anything this serious happen before. I run the crap out of nissans and they beg for more. So, I'm quite confused. Thanks!

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

Yep...buy a new engine, buy a cherry picker and install it yourself.

Look around for the oil burning threads. It's not uncommon with VQ35s, though normally you hear rattling when it gets low...too bad you didn't catch it before, but there's nothing you can do now.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

The only rattling was from an exhaust problem, but maybe that masked it so I didn't hear the big problem
Unfortunately, I'm only technically inclined (anything computer/electronic). Only basic on mechanics of things.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

Yeah it really sucks, but once that engine nearly seizes, you'll have rod-knock until the day when it finally decides to go totally ka-put on you...

I recently removed my first engine, and while it was a PITA, it really was nothing that involved thinking...I mean, you just unplug everything and lift. Then do the reverse when putting it in. All the electrical plugs are either color coded or they have a unique shape, so it makes it easy for re-installing all the electrical bits. Just remove the CV axles first and see what's holding that puppy in there and hoist it up! It'll save you a lot of money and you'll actually get a lot out of it. That's only if you have room to work, of course...

Look in the stickies in the all motor forum and there's a write-up for a VQ35 swap made by Tavarish. It's basically the same procedure, which isn't that hard. Get someone to help you out so that one person can unbolt things from the bottom and the other person can unbolt stuff from the top.

If not, I'm guessing it's going to cost ~$1000 for an engine swap Next time I guess buy a warranty! HAHA I have mine until 130k, but my motor doesn't burn a drop of oil, so I think I'm good.

Teufelhunden

iTrader: (8)

its kinda gay, since nissan made faulty engines but dont want to own up to it. they know that few of these engine burn oil, but they dont do anything about it.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I guess my last question is where to get a cheap engine (that isn't crap), and I heard about there being a long and short block, and what's the difference? I really can't afford anything much. I'm 30K in the hole on loans and stuff as it is and make virtually no money.

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

Ouch...the best place to start is to call up some junk yards. You may have to have it shipped in, but my friend bought a VQ shipped from New Jersey to Louisiana for $500, so shipping couldn't have been THAT much...

You're going to want a long block. Short block is the bottom end (block, cylinders, rods, pistons, etc.) and long block includes the heads, and sometimes other things such as the intake manifold/exhaust.

Child_uv_KoRn

iTrader: (7)

I assume with these newer engines that you don't need a specific engine for a stick, and you could just change out the flywheel if necessary. Is that correct? And thanks for the replies. No car=no fun

LA02MAX

iTrader: (3)

You're correct. The engine most likely will not come with the transmission (they should specify first) so your 6-speed will bolt up fine. Again, good luck.