Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, didn't see this thread until now. I meant to try this on my car today but with it being 77 this afternoon, I decided to get 32 miles in on my road bike.

Let me know what you find.

96nismomaxi

iTrader: (17)

Check your MAF or your IACV or possibly put a multimeter to your O2 sensor on the cat and see if it is recieving signal

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

OK, not going to bother to read all the reply's, but here's the deal.

I had this same problem on someone's car, and as much as I didn't want to do it, after swapping out Maf's and checking a million and one other things as well as doing all the throttle & idle learning crap I finally cleaned the throttle body. BINGO, problem solved. Just make sure you don't have key on and connector still in before you move that motor or else you will fry it.

This is all assuming you have an '02+ w/DBW throttle-body, which functions as the IACV. If you have a 3.0, it's probably an IACV issue

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Mine is a DBW '02 so I'll look into cleaning the TB...properly!

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Do this!

I ran my car by my Dad's mechanic since he is the one I trust to deal with DBW throttle bodies. He cleaned it out (cost me $42) and said it was pretty filthy inside. My idle has gone from 600 to around 740 or so (kind of hard to tell exactly) and when I start the car after a few minutes of shutting it down, no more rpms dropping well below 500.

Thanks for the excellent advice.

CAPPY101

Hey max ak you probably have to replace your wheel bearing. I had the same problem. Theres some good write ups about it. And um it should be iacv. I had the same prob. umm If you replace maf and iacv and still dont work then guess what! YOU NEED A NEW ECU! Sorry just pissed off that i did all this crap of cleaning and replacing and still had to buy a new ecu for 800 from the stealership. Sucks!

REPOMAN2K9

HEY CAN YALL HELP ME I HAVE A 2000 MAXIMA SE AUTOMATIC IT STALLS WHEN SHES HOT, SHE DOES IT MORE IN PARK OR NEUTRAL BUT WHEN ITS EXTREMELY COLD SHE JUST DOES IT ANYTIME BUT I HAVE NO CODES OR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT FOR THAT PROBLEM, SECOND PROBLEM IS I HAVE A INTERMIDIATE MISFIRE ON START UPS IT DOESNT HAVE ALL THE TIME JUS WHEN EVER IT FEELS LIKE IT IT NEVER HAPPENS WHILE THE CAR IS ALREADY RUNNING ONLY SOMETIMES WHEN I START UP CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES ON CODE 1320 PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
I HAVE CHANGED ALL THE COILS AND PLUGS TWICE STIIL HAPPENS. WHEN I TAKE IT TO NISSAN THEY SAY THEY CANT FIND A THING WRONG WIT DA CAR

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

HOLY f'ing hell.

Easy on the caps lock. And please, use some punctuation. I had to read that 2x and barely understand what you're getting at.

Did you read this thread at all? Have your intake manifold gasket looked at/replaced, and clean your Throttle Body.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

I'm not that into the abbreviations but what is a DBW throttle-body? I have an '02. I did my idle relearning and reset the ecu and my car still idles at 4-3. Not good. Not dying on me anymore but do you think it could be the MAF sensor or just need to get some stuff cleaned? Also, how do you know if it's the MAF meter and not the sensor, if even possible? Appreciate any help here.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Drive by wire

MAF 'meter' = MAF sensor

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

See post #45. Either have your throttle body cleaned by someone who is familiar with drive-by-wire throttle bodies or clean it yourself. Make sure to turn the key to on when moving the throttle plate or you will ruin the throttle body. Cost me $42 to have mine cleaned, figured that is cheaper than replacing a $450 DBW throttle body if I mess it up.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the advice, I'll be looking into that.

Topher3284

iTrader: (17)

Finally got my throttle body cleaned today, took awhile since I was out of town or just too busy, but only cost $43 and car runs back at 700 rmps. Feels fantastic!! Thanks for all the help guys.

jkenosh

mine does the same thing, would die any time you let off the gas, manually turned up idle with the set screw, now it only does it cold, i am replacing maf sensor as soon as it gets above freezing, i wish i had a heated garage

hi-tek22

iTrader: (4)

IACV....clean the throttle body...I just had mine replaced because my idle was SHOT, and the car always died

reyrey

171 is code for engine running lean. I had issues with teh IAC. In my case though I could not get the rpm to come down. By any chance, did anyone have a burnt smell inside the car? That would inidicate that the ECM has been burnt, which a faulty IACV is known to burn the ECM.

I changed my IACV and ECM, but still had the same issues of car stalling. I changed the MAF and that did the trick.

Before replacing your IACV, I'd have a dealer pull the codes first. Faulty IACV is code 505.

vvtli78k

ok I have an 02 Se with a P0506 code which points to a low rpm idle air control valve.. so i got a throttle body cleaner... do I take the plastic pipe connecting the air filter to throttle body apart and spray it inside there or ????

you said make sure Don't have key on and connector still in ? what connector are you taking about?

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

If you are unsure about this, I strongly advise you to take it to your mechanic and have him clean it. Do it wrong and you will end up needing a nearly $500 throttle body and maybe an ECU to finally fix the idle problems that result from doing it wrong.

02shiftmaxima

Hey guys! I've actually had the same problem with my 02 se, and tried to clean maf at first but did not work out. Then i went on to cleaning the TB. That solved my problem but now, i did not do ecu reset yet, and my gasmilage has increased noticibly, but was just wondering if i should do the reset or would it adapt by itself?

P.S.When i cleaned my TB i did not disconnect it from both side but only the way from airbox, and then opened the butterfly by pressing on accelarator and cleaned the TB inside.

bcmfxtrader

yes... i'm a newbie here...but have read through ALOT of various threads to help diagnise my probs. that said...things have changed in the last 12 hours, lol>>> any and all help is welcome !!!

will layout the events in description as they have unfolded over last couple of days ...

2001 maxima se 144k miles... other than normal wear and tear replacements/maintenance over the years, nothing major to speak in regards to break-downs ...

2 days ago ... car operating fine, mid-aftrnoon-warm weather car died/stalled when idling at a stoplight, had to double pedal the brake and gas to keep running. 30 min. later problem gone.

1 day ago ... same thing again, but this time in the morning, cool weather ... BUT, this time it actually did while driving UP a highway on ramp at approx. 15 mph(i had to let off gas to merge into traffic) ... car died when i let off. problem went away... re-emerged later in same day, idling at light. went away again.

today ... car wouldnt start this morning, acted like battery dead, yet, lights/radio, and all auxilliary functions worked. would slowly turn over, after 3-4 attempts, dead...nothing. 7 minutes later it started and warmed right up, no probs. after a 20 mile drive, started stalling again at low idle, had to double pedal it home again.

here is where it gets really weird ... as soon as i got home and turned vehicle off, i decided to take it to autozone and get their free diag test. again ... car wouldnt start, every indication its battery oriented. 3 hours later it fired right up (still had to double pedal to keep it running, though)
drove to autozone... showed the IACV was out (as i expected somewhat after reading this thread)... had him check out battery, its fine, but a little loose on the positive side terminal. tightened it up, car started fine. went and got some gas, car started fine.... came home, turned it off, tried to restart..and NOTHING. cleaned the posts and terminals, even tried jump starting ... still NOTHING.

guy at garage said it sounds like the terminals on the positive side could be corroded down into the "multi-terminal" portion (3 cables into one, with a fuse).... also said i shoud take off the IACV and spray down with B12 chemtool since its already showing up as "bad", said it couldnt hurt, and in his experience has fixed the prob sometime.

the IACV stuff makes sense to me... but whats the deal with the "electrical" starting issues...and why did it start happening directly/indirectly with the idle issue??

sorry this was so long...just wanted to make sure you had all info.

btw...i have relative that has worked at GM for 30 years, said absolutely no reason for me to be using higher octane gas...he has used the lower with no probs. so...my gullable money saving a** decided to start running the regular lowest grade gas (after using premium since i bought this car new in 2001) about 3 weeks ago... could this be a prob too??? mechanic said if no pinging then no prob...but also said "there is a reason the manufacturer tells you to run premium in this car!!"
i switched back to premium today...albiet the car wont start....

PLEASE HELP !!!!!!

thanks !!!!

RaikkaF1

Starting than dying a few minutest later?! fuel pump maybe?

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Sorry, but your relative is an idiot when it comes to cars. Nissan doesn't get kickbacks from the oil companies if you use premium, so if they recommend it, you should use it. Our engines have relatively high compression and are designed to run their best on premium fuel. If you have a car designed to run on regular fuel, then yes, premium is a waste of money.

I doubt your starting problem has anything to do with your idle issues. Most likely it is a battery or a cable/ground issue.

ColdRain

I really meant to start new thread, but looking at bcmfxtrader post thought, I should post here.

I had check engine sign on for nearly 2 years, every time i got TSB code lookup it came up p0171, and p0174 which meant to be for
- o2 sensor
- system too lean
- MAF sensor
- and some thing else
Never had huge issue, but past couple of days in the morning (after cold night), car would start up and die with idle jumping between 2000 rpm to all the way down. to prevent that from happending i would have to keep acceleration up and when warm idle shows up around ~700-800. I also saw car jerking sometimes with rpm's staying low and kick up in few seconds.
so to get this over with I had input Shell premium 93 octane and Lucas fuel injector, and CHECK ENGINE code which haunted forever, just went away in less than 5 mins. Now i still got the same car dying after cold night issue, but jerking seems to be gone while driving. car does seem somewhat smoother, so i've picked up CRC MAF cleaner and will try it out this weekend to clean sensor and may be throttle body(if i get chance). So, all in all i think higher octane or fuel injector did the trick for p0171 and p0174.

anyone got any input on i should be checking?

sontakke

Please clean and/or replace MAF to fix P0171 related issue. There are literally hundreds of notes in this forum on it.

And do report it later.

- Vikas

theKNICKSNY

I have a 2001 SE.

There are 1 billion things people are saying to do so I'm doing it one by one.

I used Seafoam through the brake booster, no change in performance, but the check engine light went off (p0505).

It came on again a few days later and my car dies at low speeds or idle due to low rpm's.

Going to clean the throttle body myself.

Will update.

Lanaue

what is a pnp switch???

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

There's to much mixture between 5 and 5.5 gens in this thread, with a dash of newb on top. Please try to indicate at the beginning of the post what year your car is when posting, especially if it's not right under your name.

5th gen = 00/01:
IACV code and/or idle issues. Clean the throttle body, iacv, and make a very thorough visual inspection of all the hoses, pcv lines etc etc. If code still present replace iacv, if symptoms are STILL present the bad iacv took out the iacv part of the ecu, common problem unfortunatly.

5.5 gen = 02+ w/3.5l engine.
iacv code or idle issues, stalling upon starting etc- Perform the same visual inspection and clean the throttle body by doing the following: Take the key out of the ignition, step 1 and very important. Wait a minute. Then clean the throttle body using a rag and preferably throttle body cleaner, get the butterfly only a little but mainly the crud that is built up around where the butterfly sits in the closed position, it's a ***** to get it real good near the shaft but whatever you only need to be **** with making sure you don't move an energized throttle body. Than reassemble, start car, & if issues persist consult previous threads or the fsm available on Boredmder.com about how to do all of the "relearns" for the idle and throttle etc.

Hope this helps clear things up. None of this is set in stone either, there is 1000+ things that can go wrong to every system on a car.

BESHEARS8807

We're getting the P0171 and P0174 codes and changed the MAF sensor, CAM senor, Crank sensor, and it starts.. idles up and down then dies. Help?

maxgen5

Same thing happened on wifey's 2K a while back. I bought the MAF cleaner, used it and it worked for a week and then started the same problem. I replaced the MAF and WOW... huge power increase and back to normal. I forgot how much power it had and just got used to the slow decline.

513Chillz

Im having the same problem with my car idling very low then eventually stalling. Who is Dave B so that i can contact him about the Intake Manifold gasket. Thanks

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Dave Burnette is a parts manager at a Nissan dealership in TX. He offers maxima.org members great discounts on parts - and ships anywhere in the US. He can be contacted at 512-444-1400.

BUT, there is no need to call him for these parts, because I have them for sale These are exactly the 3 parts you need to do this job.

Link to my for sale thread: http://forums.maxima.org/5th-generat...d-new-oem.html

513Chillz

Hello, I have this issue with my I30 Where when i start the car it starts up strong then you can hear the idle get weaker until the car will stall. The time that it takes until the car cuts off varies.. I've already taken the IACV and the Throttle body off and cleaned them. The MAF Sensor is clean looked fine when i looked at it. Oil change not too long ago(don't know if that has any relevance) No Engine Service light. Issue started when i moved up to Cincinnati and it began to get cold.Can someone please advise me on if the issue is the IACV,Intake Manifold Gasket,or something else..

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

The symptom of it occurring during cold weather is textbook of it being the manifold gasket. I sent you a PM about the parts for sale.

STILLENGLE

It could be a O2 sensor as well, check your IACV. try cleaning out your throttle body as well.

Killimajaro

have you updated since your car issue i have the same issue it started acting up when winter came around then it went downhill from there. starts up and not even a second it shuts off i dont know if its the positive terminal that connects the battery or the battery its self or something big thats going to burn a hole in my wallet does anyone know what i can do to resolve this issue.

gilram01

ok i have a 2002 nissan maxima with 3.5l motor. starts and dies. i will try the throttle learning procedure to see if that corrects the problem. what is the pnp switch that has to be on for the pre conditioning?

brisk

yes, I have the same question, what is a PNP switch? is it Park/Neutral position switch?

where is it?

thanks

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

2002 -vq35de here and started experiencing this
-normal cranking/startup followed immediately by rpm surge/drop to a stall. becoming more constient with the colder weather.
I recognized this problem gradually by noticing the rpm surge with no stall, and finally the surge increasing so much to stalling last week or so.

Cleaned the MAF routinely every year. Just did again after the first stall occurance, with that done it started up better with less to no surge in rpm. But now after a few days/start ups it seems like it was a small band-aid to the over all problem, because the surge/drop is still occuring, and as it did before is gradually becoming worse again.

Next step is to take is to clean the Throttle body?
IIRC is it me or I heard alot of horror stories of 5th gen people cleaning the TB in general and causing way more issues. (could it just be non experienced people?)

FYI I have a small evap leak code, I dont believe I have any other codes at the moment, but considering the evap has been on a while I could have adopted some more codes.

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Ever changed your intake manifold gasket?

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

only when doing spark plugs around 94k, now at 134k. I remember the one shop had trouble doing it, and so much trouble they couldnt even do it, took it to my main shop and they did it no prob.
you think it may be that?
ps I also didnt forget about your inquiry on the suspension work, just putting it off untill it really needs to be done.