djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Eh, probably not since you've already replaced it.

Check for vacuum leaks?
Re: cleaning your TB. I'd try not to if you have a 5.5 gen due to sensitivity of the IACV. 5.0 gens can be done no problem.

No problem - I'm ready when you are

Prophecy99

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the reply, Thats what I was thinking, I will def leave the TB alone.
I also noticed if I hold the key over just a bit longer it helps prevent the rpm surge from happening as badly.
Though the problem still seems to exist...

sschwarz25

So after reading all of this, I see a few things that look good to check. Anyways, I have an '02 and it has been stalling out at red lights or whenever i hit breaks...more or less whenever I let it go to an idle. When I am stopped, it will rev up to over 1k then bottom out to the 0 mark a few times and then just stall out completely. Once stalled, i throw it into park and try to restart the car; usually takes around 4 tries to get it start back up. I am finding that if I drop it into neutral while braking or stopped it won't stall (or at least hasn't yet by chance). I have 3 codes calling out, but every time the car dies it resets the SES. The codes are P0139, P1147 (both are o2 sensor related) and then a random P1456. I have cleaned my MAF and today I looked at my EVAP lines off the canister, the valve and the canister itself and everything looks up to par. I think my next step is going to be to replace my MAF and if that doesn't help then replace my o2 sensor. Thinking about getting a smoke check for my EVAP. Either way, I am nervous, as this is happening more and more and more, and I have to drive this car about 500 miles due to the military moving me to a new base. Any thoughts?

Also, what is a TB and IAC?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Throttle Body and Idle Air Control Valve.

tonybone2011

My car doesnt wanna crank periodically rather cold or hot. I've replaced the crank sensor, camshaft, and fuel pump and the problem still exist. Can anyone help me solve this problem??????[/I][/B]

CobraKing

Bro, assuming that you're car is a '96 Maxima you really need to do some digging and research in the 4th Gen forum.

bnewall1

Hi all,
I found this thread when searching for Idle Air Control Valve problems. My mother-in-law's 2000 Maxima GXE is having the warm-start stalling/near-stalling problem. I am planning to replace the IACV, since everything seems to be pointing to that. (Her car also recently threw a P0171 code -- System Too Lean, Bank 1 -- and she lives in a very dusty area, so I'm going to do a MAF replacement and ECU reflash as well.)

One of the responses on the MAF thread pointed me at www.partsgeek.com for a new MAF. I also searched there for an Idle Air Control Valve, and 2 results came up at the following URL:

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...rol_valve.html

Aside from a $30 price difference, I don't know what the difference would be. (Ignore the picture on the 2nd part; it doesn't reflect the actual item.) Do I want the "Tru-Tech/T Series", or the "Genuine Intermotor Quality"? Or should I be looking elsewhere for these parts?

I also found a nice write-up for replacing the IACV: http://www.freeengineinfo.com/idle-a...eplacement.htm

If anyone else has suggestions, or if there's someone in the San Diego County area who would be willing and able to assist me (I'm somewhat handy, but certainly no auto mechanic, although I did manage to replace the spark plugs and coil packs a few years ago), I'd be much obliged!

Thanks!

bnewall1

Hi all,

Here's an update on my situation.

I ordered a new IACV and a new MAF from Dave B. Parts arrived last week, and I made an appointment with a local dealership to have them installed, as well as check the wiring, ECM, etc. I'm sitting in their customer lounge as I write this. The service rep came in earlier and told me that they checked my IACV, and it was fine, but the MAF definitely needed to be replaced, and it's what was causing the startup problem AND the P0171 code. Good news for me! That is, of course, assuming that the MAF fixes the problem. They're also going to do the required ECM update and idle re-learn, and I'm also having them clean out the throttle body and injection system. I'll post another update later today, since I'm going to try to drive the car around as much as possible before I go out of town on the 4th.

joemax2000

i had a similar problem with my 2000 max. I had a hole in one of my intake tubes, after the MAF, and before the throttle body. My car would crank over just fine every morning but would low rev and slowly die. Second startup was fine everytime.

bnewall1

Quoting myself again... I got home a little while ago after running some errands. So far, all is good, except that the dealer also replaced the drive belts, and one of them is squealing sometimes. Easily fixed tomorrow morning. But the car starts up and doesn't dip RPMs like it was doing. Interestingly enough, they did NOT re-flash the ECU. They told me (insisted, actually) that an ECU reflash was not necessary after a MAF replacement, despite the piece of paper that came with the MAF saying it needed to be done. The rep told me that the reflash only applies to "Chinese-made" parts as opposed to "authentic Japanese parts", which my MAF is apparently one of. They did do the idle re-learn, though. Car is running great so far; gonna drive it around some more in the next couple of days before returning it to my mother-in-law when we leave town.

ravis1019@gmail.com

its a common issue that i just fixed, its the IAC-V that shorts out and burns out the computer. You need to replace the iac valve and then get new computer and have it programmed by nissan. You must get the same year computer as your car, i have a 01 and i bought a 00 i30 ecu and it ran in safe mode.

bnewall1

Safe Mode? What does it run, Windows?? Just kidding. Yes, I was all set to have the IACV replaced, but the dealership checked it and said the one in the car was working fine. I believe them, since if they were just trying to make money off me, they would've tried to sell me a new one. Replacing the MAF and running the idle re-learn did the trick in my case. The car has been running just fine and starting up the way it should be for the past 2 days. We're going to return it to my mother-in-law on Thursday.

Also, I got the squealing belt(s) fixed this morning. They just had to adjust the tensioner and all is well (no cost, of course).

CHYLLA

I recently bought a 2003 6 speed what is it supposed to idle at? mine is really low

DjHackStyle

625 to 675 is the specified FSM value. Mines is around 680~720 which i dont have a problem with i also have a 03 6spd

D.Stillwell

Just saw this thread, seems like quite a few people are having the same kind of issues. Also, seems like I'm quite the RE-TARD for not noticing and posting here earlier.

A very similar problem occurred to me a few days ago -- Drove car for 40min on highway and it was around 95 degrees, got to my destination/parked car/turned car off. I leave for 10 min and when I came back car started and cranked perfectly fine and then out the blue my RPM's start surging and drop down to 600, then 500 and below and car stalls out. Go to start it again, same result, car starts but dies within a minute or so of idling at very low RPM. When I tried to give it some gas as it was stalling, it simply made it die right away but otherwise would run in idle very weakly.

Went in and checked a bunch of things, made sure all electrical connections were secure around the intake manifold especially where I just did the spark plugs back there. Long story short, after around 3-4 hours of not starting, after letting the car sit for a bit, it started fine and ran perfectly fine and the problem has not been seen since, no SES and no codes ever came up since that day and car has been driving fine, and I've tried to complete several drive cycles hoping it would have a pending code but no dice.
I've checked the most likely culprits (MAF, IACV, TPS, etc.) at this point, save for everything fuel related (fuel pump, solenoid, filter, bad injector) which is where my heart is telling me to look, the problem I had did feel very much fuel related to me.

I have an important question for the experts -- For some reason my car now idles out of spec and it definitely happened after this problem occurred (idle was @ 713 set by Nissan dealer when I did my timing advance and was on point). Almost like something clicked that night. I was looking at my RPM's driving just now and car is idling at 600RPM (4AT) which is way low, it still feels smooth and has not stalled again even at such low RPM but clearly something got knocked out of spec for some reason. When A/C is turned on, RPM does jump up slightly like it should, just so you guys have all the info needed. Oh and also, I've seen my RPM stay around 1000 going 40-50mph which is also way low. What do you guys think may have happened here? And what would you suggest?
Do you think all I need may possibly be just an idle relearn/throttle relearn? Or maybe just adjust the idle screw manually?

Please help, thank you guys for any and all help and I really greatly appreciate it! (Sorry for long post)

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Besides the obvious mentioned above, what about vacuum leak or Intake manifold gasket?

D.Stillwell

That's very possible, I'm going to look for leaks tonight. Now that I think about it the RPM's just slowly dropped down from normal after the car cranked over, and then the engine died while an air hissing sound was let out. I don't think the RPM's surged much at all now that I think about it, just a slow drop.

Also, I DID discover a bad intake breather hose several days ago (sometime not too long before the stalling took place that night) and it has an old worn out seal @ the valve cover and some blow by has managed to find its way out around the nipple on the engine so definitely no longer and air tight seal there. I ordered an OEM replacement breather hose so that will be taken care of shortly, but could the breather hose possibly cause such a problem?

The manifold gasket clearly seems like a very likely possibility, but then wouldn't it have happened in the cold when the gasket shrinks rather than extreme heat when it expands?

Some great ideas, definitely going to do more digging now. Thanks for the input, keep it coming.

castaway2003

Any updates
Mine just started doing the same thing today.
Starts fine but rpms almost immediately drop till it dies within 5 seconds
Tryin to give it gas just kills motor.
2002 with 3.5 liter

castaway2003

Ok unplugged the MAF and car seems to run fine.
So now clean it I guess and see if that fixes it.

castaway2003

Well cleaning a no go
Can't believe how expensive these things are! !

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

How cold was ambient temperature when you experience this issue?

My money's on something other than MAF.

castaway2003

Low to mid 50s

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

Hmm. That's a bit warmer than expected. Might not be IM gasket.

castaway2003

Any help is welcome
Ty!!
Let me know of anything I need to check

castaway2003

Its my daily driver and really putting me in a bind but I'm a check to check family guy so its bout gotta be a diy job if at all possible.
And thanks again!

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

I've had this happen numerous times..... You need a new MAF.

castaway2003

What I thought when I unplugged it and it continued to run but I guess the puter going into safe mode might mask another sensor problem maybe?

CauzinDrama

iTrader: (13)

Nope, the computer going into limp mode is normal when you unplug the MAF. Basically it's not food for you to drive it like that so it limits your RPM's so you cannot further damage the engine. But you can at least get the car home or to a garage, whatever it might be..... But Trust me replace the MAF with a 5th Gen MAF and swap in the thermosister from your 5.5gen MAF and the car will be like you've never felt it before.

castaway2003

Ok I guess I haven't done enough reading to understand your help completly but I Will get to researhing asap
And ty for the help!

castaway2003

I understand all except how do I swap the thermosister
I know its the thing that closley resembles a diode on the side of the MAF
But research from there

castaway2003

New MAF installed and I'm back on the road
Thanks all!

insaner

i hope this is my only problem.

castaway2003

Any news?

lidlitalian

Help!


2000 maxima (over complicated money pit.) Engine cranks, starts, immediately dies... Changed: maf,coils, plugs, crank sencor,cam sencor, iav, cleaned throttle body, new o2 sensors, new upper intake manifold gaskets...thinking fuel filter next??

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

What happens if you try to give it gas after it starts? Did you do idle relearn procedure?

lidlitalian

foodmanry


If I "blip" the gas pedal 3 times over 2K, runs fine. till it sits, then rinse and repeat.


I had stealership to the idle relearn.


Im stumped mate...

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like MAF but could be fuel filter. Filter isn't hard to change, just have to be careful to not damage fuel assembly housing. I'm assuming you replaced with an OEM MAF and OEM coils and OEM sensor?

lidlitalian

yes.


Fuel filter under rear seat inside pump right? 2000 maxima gle

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

Yes. Most dealers should have it in stock. I think it's around $20.

Phantasm

I had similar issues to the OP and yours. replaced the MAF etc etc. still weak idle, rough idle then it would cut out until warmed up or occasionally in traffic.


Finally replaced the fuel filter AND the pump. Bingo, smooth idle no problems since, that was Thanksgiving 2013. So 2 months later it's been great.


I figure the pump can pressurize the system when it is not taking on gas, but when the engine needs the gas the pump is too weak to supply enough fuel.
My filter looked really clean when I replaced it as did the inside of my tank, so I really think the pump was the culprit. Perhaps just reseating the O-rings and improving the seal was all that was needed, but the parts are replaceable, tricky job make sure you really understand how you took it apart, but very doable.