Power window switch problem
Power window switch problem
For the past month or so from the drivers seat I could only roll the rear right window down. Rolling it up was only hapening intermittently. Since the power window switch located at the rear right door itself worked, I am thinking there is something worng with the power windwo switch in the driver's door cluster.
Now I can only roll the window down from that switch. It won't roll back up. Is this a common thing? Is there an easy fix or does the switch need to be replaced? If I need a replacement part, can the switch be changed, or the whole cluster needs to be changed?
Thanks
Now I can only roll the window down from that switch. It won't roll back up. Is this a common thing? Is there an easy fix or does the switch need to be replaced? If I need a replacement part, can the switch be changed, or the whole cluster needs to be changed?
Thanks
I'm having a similar problem, but in my 6th Gen (2004). I recently purchased an '04 Max (first time Nissan owner!) SE, and the seller told me the FR window wasn't working. Despite my lack of automotive knowledge, I'm kinda handy and a DIYer, figured it wasn't a deal breaker even though I've not played with power windows before.
Did some research and toyed with it a couple times, master switch and passenger door switch both cause a clicking sound, leads me to believe it's not the window lift motor.
Fast forward to two weeks ago, when my FL window died too. Same thing; clicking heard on button press. Assumed the glass was off track due to separating from the seal at the back of the door.
Took the door panel off and removed the inner panel, regulator looks good. Got the motor working, at least enough to get the window closed before it died, now with no audible click on button press. Ordered a new FL motor, swapped it out, tested, golden. Put the inner panel back on, tested, fabulous. Put the door panel back on, tested... nothing.
So, for the FL, I know the regulator and motor are good. The only time the window won't budge is after I get the door panel back in place. Is there something the panel might be pinching or causing to short? Could this be related to my FR issue? Everything else on the master switch functions perfectly. I'm at the end of my realm of knowledge... help!
(apologies for length, I talk when I'm frustrated)
Did some research and toyed with it a couple times, master switch and passenger door switch both cause a clicking sound, leads me to believe it's not the window lift motor.
Fast forward to two weeks ago, when my FL window died too. Same thing; clicking heard on button press. Assumed the glass was off track due to separating from the seal at the back of the door.
Took the door panel off and removed the inner panel, regulator looks good. Got the motor working, at least enough to get the window closed before it died, now with no audible click on button press. Ordered a new FL motor, swapped it out, tested, golden. Put the inner panel back on, tested, fabulous. Put the door panel back on, tested... nothing.
So, for the FL, I know the regulator and motor are good. The only time the window won't budge is after I get the door panel back in place. Is there something the panel might be pinching or causing to short? Could this be related to my FR issue? Everything else on the master switch functions perfectly. I'm at the end of my realm of knowledge... help!
(apologies for length, I talk when I'm frustrated)
Fixed
So just to update again , fixed the issue , turns out an owner before me replaced entire rear door , that’s why switch was different ,, it was the wiring harness in door so found another one at pick and part and replaced , works all good now
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4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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Sep 20, 2001 10:29 AM




