Guys, after reading Greg's how-to i was wondering about a couple of things, and was hoping some of you can help answer my questions below:

- When replacing the gasket, is it mainly a matter of putting the new one on, or should i lubricate it with something first?

- What type of sparkplug wrench do i need to get? Looking at Google, there seems to be different types out there.

- If i bought the plugs from Nissan directly, do i need to adjust the gap (and how?), or should i assume it's already at OEM spec?

- When putting in the new plug, is it a matter of hand-tightening?

- When placing the IM back, Greg mentions replacing the bolts. Would anyone know if that's just his wording for when putting them back on, or do i actually need to replace the bolts with new ones?

- Lastly, if i fail to finish all 6 plugs in one go, are there any disadvantages if i only get to 3 of them, and finish up on the remainder at a later time?

As always, your help is gladly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

you need to use the liquid gasket.

they are all the same thing

no gapping needed, they are fine

hand tighten plus about one turn with a ratchet

he means to replace (put back in) the same bolts.

it wouldnt hurt, but i recommend doing it when you have enough time fore all 6

 

First off, thank you for the response!

Will something like this work, and would i apply it to both sides of the gasket?

Also, if i end up placing too much, to where a little oozes into the tract, will that be ok?

I'll try to do all at the same time, but just wanted to know just in case.

Thanks again!

 

No RTV required on the IM gasket.

Sounds like it would be a little overtorqued using that method. Spec is only 14-22 lb-ft.

 

you are right, my fault. i was thinking about when i installed my IM spacers.

just wanted to make sure he tightened them enough. a few days after i did mine, i had misfire codes because they were not tight enough.

 

If you can get a torque wrench that reads 14-22 lb-ft then use it. Sometimes you can screw them in by hand and it may come up against some carbon and become hard to screw in therefore in that case even a full turn may not be enough. I believe it is about 3/4 of a turn after the new gasket touches but I wouldn't trust that and suggest a torque wrench. I would also check the GAP on all of the spark plugs, somehow you will get one that if off by a lot. It is better to check then to have to replace one later. When checking don't force a gaping tool between the electrodes since this can dislodge the platinum tip. I would also use the NGK Laser Platinum plugs, I have seen some of the Iridium electrodes wear out fast.

 

the plugs you need (according to Nissan)

 

always check the gap, i don't care if you friend just gapped them...always check before putting them in...especially since the rear ones are a P.I.T.A.

 

Thanks for the clarification guys. So nothing at all on those gaskets, right?

As for checking the plug gap, is that what it's called? A gapping tool?

 

bump this one

 

umm i think its called a gapping tool lol? but you can get them at any autoparts store. there the size of a half dollar. as far as the gasket goes, i thought it is recommended to change the gasket under in the intake plenum?

 

I've been reading up and some say the gapping tool that you force through the gap isn't recommended. Then again, i guess as long as you don't put unecessary force, it should be fine. (Not to mention, the caliper looking tool is a bit pricey).

As for the gasket, i've only read up about using this one.

 

it depends on the plugs you get. if youre getting the rec'd by nissan plugs, i wouldnt gap them myself because you may ruin the plug by breaking off the tip of the diode (not a normal tip, its very tiny). besides, i bet they are closer then you are gonna get them anyway. if you get coppers or something then any tool oughta work.

 

The "gapper" is called a feeler gauge.

I'm going to tackle spark plugs at some point within the next few weeks myself. It looks like a pain in the behind. I don't trust that any spark plug can go 100K without changing.

As for the gasket, I was told you don't need anything, but if I were to do it, I would clean the mating surface, and then dab 4 small drops of RTV Black, one on each corner, and then lay the gasket on to position it. When you tighten down, the gasket should compress and form the seal.

 

The size of the diode depends on the material. Pt/Cu have different densities, therefore, the Pt will be much smaller than the Cu.

I've never gapped my plugs in either my my VQ's. And I don't plan on starting soon.

Was the CP not tightened to the VC, or was it the actual plug not engaged in the CP? Strange that it would throw a code if the harness was plugged in.

 

I just did my tune-up yesterday in 98 and used the new iridum ix plugs and not the platinum tipped ones. Is it okay to use these in the car cause they have recommeded the platinum tipped ones. I also heard people are using the copper tipped and the iridium tipped. I am just making sure that the car won't mess up cause I went with the new iridium ix. I have also not greased the plugs if that is also neccesary.

Thanks.

 

Just changed my plugs today while installing phenolic spacers. I gapped all my plugs and they all need adjustment. I used NGK platinums from Nissan.