Help, Clunking
Help, Clunking
Today i noticed the engine is making a clunking noise, it seems to come from the middle of the valve cover in the front of the motor, So i pulled off the cover and took a good look around, i did not notice anything that would catch my attention, I also checked the cam bearings, they seemed good and clean and smooth, I however did notice abit of sludge in there like tar almost, i dont know if thats blocking a oil valley and causing oil starvation to the cam bearings or not, Also when i took out the bolts that hold the caps on alot of pressure was under the top most bolts on the intake side, they squirted oil out when i losened them, is that normal ? other then those i mentioned i dont know what it could be, so if you guys know of anything to the cause please help a fellow orger out.
I do not really want to replace cam bearings right now, its a 2000 Max GLE with 118k miles on it, I run only penzoil platinum 5 w 30 with a puralator pure one filter.
I do not really want to replace cam bearings right now, its a 2000 Max GLE with 118k miles on it, I run only penzoil platinum 5 w 30 with a puralator pure one filter.
Originally Posted by Professor`
You can hear it clearly as it idles even when you walk away from the car you can hear it, when you press the gas it goes away and returns when it idles.
First thing I would do is change the oil and maybe run some BG44k, and see what happens.
Iam going to do a engine oil flush and a fresh oil change today, If the cures the problem ill let you know, If not I'll need a link to contact Dave B for either a new head or cam bearings.
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 4,572
From: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
At least it's coming from the front head........I'd pull it off, as much as it's a royal pita and easier to remove the timing covers with the engine out, in which case it would be easier and possibly cheaper to drop a car-part.com motor in there. at the least run a leakdown, compression test, and thread an oil pressure gauge into that sucker.
Originally Posted by Professor`
It almost sounds as if the piston is tapping the valve.
Also try popping coil packs 1 by 1 (then plug it back in and go to the next 1 ) and see if a change hapens on any of the cylinders.
Originally Posted by LatinMax
It is almost impossible for a piston to touch a valve. I just said to listen from the bottom of the car also, because I have seen....heard sound travel from under the car up between the rad & the block and sound like it is coming fron the top end.
Also try popping coil packs 1 by 1 (then plug it back in and go to the next 1 ) and see if a change hapens on any of the cylinders.
Also try popping coil packs 1 by 1 (then plug it back in and go to the next 1 ) and see if a change hapens on any of the cylinders.
Should i just replace the head? i can get ones from work with the cams and valves for $201 apeice.
Originally Posted by Professor`
Its definitly comming from inside the valve cover somewhere, i was all over that engine like white on rice looking for the source.
Should i just replace the head? i can get ones from work with the cams and valves for $201 apeice.
Should i just replace the head? i can get ones from work with the cams and valves for $201 apeice.
Ok, I did the flush, noise is still there, it sounds to me now that i was under the car with it running like a spun bearing, but i have had other ppl tell me to tighten the torque converter bolts...... it could be my water pump making the noise, it could be a lose timing chain tensioner, I dont know what it is, but it has to be fixed.
I was working on the car today and i checked the cam bearings, the middle intake one is slightly chaffed, dunno if thats the cause, but when its running and i disconnect the middle coil , it knocks really loud and the other 2 dont knock at all, i think its either a spun connecting rod bearing or the cause is from the chaffed bearing on the cam.....i hope its the cam and not the connecting rod bearing.
So i found a good Deal on a motor, Since iam replacing it should i also put a oil cooler in for better peace of mind ? I have this item in mind
Stillen Oil Cooler $349
click me
Stillen Oil Cooler $349
click me
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
It is usually cheaper to replace the motor than to internal since VQ's are so cheap.
Seems know one wants to tackle this, i guess iam on my own, just maybe ill share info on the project and photos if anyone else wants to do this project on there own if they ever have bearing issues.
I hope its the bearings on the connecting rods or i did all the work for nothing, also i noticed there is no seperate cam bearings..... its one piece wich sucks, so in order to replace cam bearings, You need to replace the head...... wich is not too hard and for $201 each i think its worth it, a entire rebuilt top end.
Usually when a bearing has spun the crank pin (journal) that is associated with it has been damaged. Either the crank needs to be ground down and polished with an oversized bearing, or the whole crank needs to be replaced.
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