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Help, Clunking

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Old Aug 14, 2007 | 06:09 PM
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Help, Clunking

Today i noticed the engine is making a clunking noise, it seems to come from the middle of the valve cover in the front of the motor, So i pulled off the cover and took a good look around, i did not notice anything that would catch my attention, I also checked the cam bearings, they seemed good and clean and smooth, I however did notice abit of sludge in there like tar almost, i dont know if thats blocking a oil valley and causing oil starvation to the cam bearings or not, Also when i took out the bolts that hold the caps on alot of pressure was under the top most bolts on the intake side, they squirted oil out when i losened them, is that normal ? other then those i mentioned i dont know what it could be, so if you guys know of anything to the cause please help a fellow orger out.
I do not really want to replace cam bearings right now, its a 2000 Max GLE with 118k miles on it, I run only penzoil platinum 5 w 30 with a puralator pure one filter.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:24 PM
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This might sound off... I had this issue and replaced the right side motor mount. That seemed to be my clunking issues where your describing. I could be wrong though, thats just what helped me.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:26 PM
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more clarification on when the clunking happens (accelerating, braking, cruising, turning, does it all the time, does it when car is warm, does it over bumps, etc etc etc).
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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You can hear it clearly as it idles even when you walk away from the car you can hear it, when you press the gas it goes away and returns when it idles.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:34 PM
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Could also be a knock in the engine... Which wouldn't be very good.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor`
You can hear it clearly as it idles even when you walk away from the car you can hear it, when you press the gas it goes away and returns when it idles.
sounds like you have a sticking valve. At our last dyno meet one of the 4th gens had the same problem after his runs. At idle engine would be tapping/knocking but it would go away when he gave it gas.

First thing I would do is change the oil and maybe run some BG44k, and see what happens.
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 07:39 PM
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I just recently changed the oil, should i run lets say 10w30 since is hotter out now ? also would that be BG 44 MOA ?
Old Aug 14, 2007 | 10:22 PM
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I would stick with 5w30 max's run better on it all year long.
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 06:01 AM
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If i can get a exploded view of the head and valve train i would appreciate it alot.
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 07:02 AM
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Iam going to do a engine oil flush and a fresh oil change today, If the cures the problem ill let you know, If not I'll need a link to contact Dave B for either a new head or cam bearings.
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 10:38 AM
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IAM GOING TO CRY!
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 11:36 AM
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and why would you do that?
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by DasYears
and why would you do that?
iam surposeing it didnt work.
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 01:22 PM
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Still that low clunking like knocking on something sound/
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 04:55 PM
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Auto or mtx
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by shoman94
Auto or mtx
Automatic tranny
Old Aug 15, 2007 | 09:53 PM
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Jack the car up and see if it comes from under the car. It could be a cracked flex plate (fly wheel)
Old Aug 16, 2007 | 05:04 AM
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It almost sounds as if the piston is tapping the valve.
Old Aug 16, 2007 | 10:06 AM
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At least it's coming from the front head........I'd pull it off, as much as it's a royal pita and easier to remove the timing covers with the engine out, in which case it would be easier and possibly cheaper to drop a car-part.com motor in there. at the least run a leakdown, compression test, and thread an oil pressure gauge into that sucker.
Old Aug 16, 2007 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor`
It almost sounds as if the piston is tapping the valve.
It is almost impossible for a piston to touch a valve. I just said to listen from the bottom of the car also, because I have seen....heard sound travel from under the car up between the rad & the block and sound like it is coming fron the top end.

Also try popping coil packs 1 by 1 (then plug it back in and go to the next 1 ) and see if a change hapens on any of the cylinders.
Old Aug 17, 2007 | 06:16 AM
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Originally Posted by LatinMax
It is almost impossible for a piston to touch a valve. I just said to listen from the bottom of the car also, because I have seen....heard sound travel from under the car up between the rad & the block and sound like it is coming fron the top end.

Also try popping coil packs 1 by 1 (then plug it back in and go to the next 1 ) and see if a change hapens on any of the cylinders.
Its definitly comming from inside the valve cover somewhere, i was all over that engine like white on rice looking for the source.
Should i just replace the head? i can get ones from work with the cams and valves for $201 apeice.
Old Aug 17, 2007 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Professor`
Its definitly comming from inside the valve cover somewhere, i was all over that engine like white on rice looking for the source.
Should i just replace the head? i can get ones from work with the cams and valves for $201 apeice.
Not until you know for sure what the issue is.
Old Aug 19, 2007 | 11:57 AM
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Ok, I did the flush, noise is still there, it sounds to me now that i was under the car with it running like a spun bearing, but i have had other ppl tell me to tighten the torque converter bolts...... it could be my water pump making the noise, it could be a lose timing chain tensioner, I dont know what it is, but it has to be fixed.
Old Aug 19, 2007 | 07:35 PM
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I was working on the car today and i checked the cam bearings, the middle intake one is slightly chaffed, dunno if thats the cause, but when its running and i disconnect the middle coil , it knocks really loud and the other 2 dont knock at all, i think its either a spun connecting rod bearing or the cause is from the chaffed bearing on the cam.....i hope its the cam and not the connecting rod bearing.
Old Aug 20, 2007 | 07:31 AM
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Some info? something ? anything ?
Old Aug 21, 2007 | 01:52 PM
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Does anyone have intrest? or does no on care? it would appear iam gona replace the motor or would it be cheaper to rebuild.
Old Aug 21, 2007 | 01:56 PM
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It is usually cheaper to replace the motor than to internal since VQ's are so cheap.
Old Aug 22, 2007 | 08:13 AM
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So i found a good Deal on a motor, Since iam replacing it should i also put a oil cooler in for better peace of mind ? I have this item in mind

Stillen Oil Cooler $349
click me
Old Aug 23, 2007 | 03:54 PM
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Its official, iam replacing the crank and rod bearings, cant come up with the $$ for the whole motor.
Old Aug 23, 2007 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Kevlo911
It is usually cheaper to replace the motor than to internal since VQ's are so cheap.
i wish hehe, 4k for a reman and 9k for a new one fron auto zone and advane auto, though i seen some used ones for as low as $400
Old Aug 24, 2007 | 06:51 PM
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Seems know one wants to tackle this, i guess iam on my own, just maybe ill share info on the project and photos if anyone else wants to do this project on there own if they ever have bearing issues.
Old Aug 25, 2007 | 02:24 PM
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I would like to know if it really is your bearings. Let us know how it goes. Best of luck.
I just broke my flex-plate (flywheel) and have to drop the tranny again.
Old Aug 26, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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I hope its the bearings on the connecting rods or i did all the work for nothing, also i noticed there is no seperate cam bearings..... its one piece wich sucks, so in order to replace cam bearings, You need to replace the head...... wich is not too hard and for $201 each i think its worth it, a entire rebuilt top end.
Old Aug 31, 2007 | 07:40 AM
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Usually when a bearing has spun the crank pin (journal) that is associated with it has been damaged. Either the crank needs to be ground down and polished with an oversized bearing, or the whole crank needs to be replaced.
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