Saddles

iTrader: (2)

So I got me some new rims for my max right, alls well. I notice one day my passenger rear is going flat. No biggie, I work in a tire shop, so I pull it off, and find out my rim is cracked. I mount my tire on one of my stock rims and drive with 3 17x8 aftermarkets and a stock 17x7 on. I make it about 8 miles and my ABS light comes on. Anyway...I replace the wheel so they're all the same. Light stays on. We hooked up our scan tool and pulled off what we could - no codes thrown any where, lights just on. Took sensor from passenger rear out, inspected and cleaned, everything looks good. Any ideas? Can I reset light? Please help!

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

it will go away

SilverGLE

iTrader: (21)

It should be off next time you start your car, IIRC.

Saddles

iTrader: (2)

I know I had hoped after replacing my original wheel it would go off. It hasn't yet. I've reset my ECU. For some reason it thinks it needs to be on. I've put a lot of miles on my car since having all four wheel sback and light hasnt even blinked.

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

Did you try pulling the codes manually?

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=13

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

check you brake fluid in the abs, also, is your brake light on?

Saddles

iTrader: (2)

I will try to reset the codes and see if that works. Fluid is full and brake light is not on. Any other solutions?

rmh3093

is the battery voltage low on your car? when I was having alternator issues, the abs light would go on as the battery voltage started to drop (probably lower than 12v) and then it would blink when it got extremly low, check your battery would be my suggestion

Saddles

iTrader: (2)

K. Thank you Towelie :P I want a red top anyway...i hope its the battery. I attempted to pull codes like said. I have not been able to get the light to go off. But it flashed 3 longs and 1 short and 1 long 2 shorts. Why? I was reading and those arent even the style of codes it should be spittin at me if I am correct. Thats where I'm at with pulling codes. Thank you for all your help, please let me know if this sparks anyone an idea.

MacGarnicle

iTrader: (1)

when I replaced my abs sensor, I had to unplug the abs system fuses for it to properly reset. The abs system does a self-check everytime the car starts.. wasn't resetting for me though..

on the other hand, maybe something is *actually* wrong...

Saddles

iTrader: (2)

There is something actually wrong. Code 31 for right rear sensor open circuit. This makes sense being it was the right rear wheel that was in question. What does an open circuit tell us...its fried or not making connection?

cpumechanic

Hi

I just finished checking a code 35 LR open circuit. Nissan FSM says you can check the sensor with some fancy nissan only computer tool in "oscilliscope mode". I just hooked up my Fluke Digital Volt Meter . On the right hand side with no code it reads 1.3Kohms, if you spin the tire the DVM will switch to voltage mode and the voltage will change as the tire is spinning, when you stop spinning the tire the voltage signal goes away.

When I connected the DVM to the Left Rear with Code 35 indicated, i got "open circuit" on the sensor, not 1.3kohms, and no change in voltage when the tire was spun.

So.. Will order a new LR sensor.

Hope this helps.

CPU

Will

iTrader: (2)

Hi fellow Guelphian, I'm an alumnus at the University and lived on Edinburgh and Willow for 4 years. You a student there? Ill be heading up there later today.

So this self-check process, is that why everytime I get in gear and drive off, there's sort of a "fldut" sound that's similar to the sound of the power locks clicking??