i was talking to my cuz and he told me that i could cut my stock springs to drop my car. he said that it would be totally ok (problems wise)and much cheaper than buying h&r's or eibachs, about a hundred for the whole job. he also said the ride would be better bc the stock springs r softer than aftermarket springs. anyone hear of anything like this? told me that it was an old racing trick. i trust him bc he's my boy and he knows lots about cars...he convinced me to get the SE maxima last year. but i trust u guys too...please respond if u know anything about cutting the STOCK springs.

 

i heard the car would not be so fun to ride in.. heres an example

BUMPY BUMPY BUMPY JUMPY JUMPY JUMPY BUMPY BUMPY WOAH WOAH BUMPY BUMPY JUMPY JUMPY WOAHHHHH

thats what i heard

 

rice mod... don't do it. you'll kill your suspension, the ride will suck ***, and you will regret it.....

 

Ask Irvine78 about cutting springs... hehehe

 

i dont know anything bout cutting springs, but if thats gonna cost u about a $100, im picking up Progress Springs on friday for $130 (1.7" front, 1.5" rear)..im still lookn for places to get em installed but i think i have a few connects...i also heard that Progress Springs are in between Eibach stiffness and Stock, maybe like a H&R's, not sure...might wanna check em out...
A_T_W

 

are you getting those Progress Springs from a shop or a hook up? I want to put new springs on mine but not to many places will ship to a fpo address...ups, fed-ex.
If its a shop ask them if they ship via usps and pass there number to me. thanks

 

There is no way to lower max "right" for cheap.......

 

.......ok, Kev....
first of all, i'd never cut stock springs...the stock springs are not stiff enough to make your car ride well..
your car will be lowered, but it won't be as good as buying 'stiffer' aftermarket springs...

now, if you want to cut eibachs, i wouldn't care.
no matter what Kev said, it's not as bad as it looks.
we're not as rich as Kev is...

but cutting the stock springs? please don't do that...

 

 

you ever see a riceboy that looks like its on the ground? do you see the driver hitting his head on the roof when his car hits the tinyest bump? most likely they cut their springs. it's not a pretty ride at all........

 

I'm not rich... but I wish I was.

<~~~ Hoon

Hehehehe

 

First of all DO NOT CUT YOUR SPRINGS, my friend who has a prelude did it and the ride is bumpy and in the long run WILL kill your car. Secondly, I just order B&G Springs for $250, I went to one shop and they told me $275 to install! That is more then what i payed for the springs. How much have you all payed for install?

 

it's cheaper to just buy decent lowering springs, because you'll cut your springs for 100bux (assuming the price you said is what it'll cost) then you'll take them out, and ppl will charge you again, then you could have bought springs for that price.. another alternative i wouldn't suggest is heating up the springs with a torch it's a lil better than cutting the stock springs but by heating the metal up so much, you change the properties of it and it becomes brittle. so one day the springs might snap on you.

 

DO NOT HEAT THE SPRINGS! A buddy of mine did this on an older Monte Carlo. It looked good the first two or three weeks, BUT his car kept getting lower and lower and lower. After 3 months the car was a serious lowrider and he was having SEVERE handling problems. He had to replace them with stockers from a junkyard.

 

Keep us informed on the install and post feedback and some pics afterwards.

 

aiite, the thing is, its a shop, but im supposedly getting a hookup cuz one of my friends went down there w/ me and got me connected w/ the owner, Mike....but when i pick em up ill ask him.....if ur wondering, the shop's called Robocar [they have a site which isnt running yet, www.robocar.com]...


it might be a while b4 i actually get em put on, cuz i also have a DTM style exhaust that i wanna get put on, and if i can find sum money around my house get the addco RSB, so im gonna need a lil bit more money for installation..but once i get everything in ill post fo sho
A_T_W

 

good for your cuz. if he honestly tell you that there is no problem cutting springs, I urge you to do it!

A 100 bucks doing the whole job, is he cutting the springs while having the car jacked up without removing the suspension out of the car?


If "he" said the ride would be better, then it will be better....


Yeah....he is right! even SCC cut their springs on their "old" rally beater.


Your boy? I thought you are talking about your "cuz".

Yes. your boy, or your cuz, knows lots about cars. Get your Maxima SE lowered using his old racing trick...



I thought he's your boy! You should trust him...not us!






PS. Crack is for life!

 

thanks alot for the input

 

Cutting springs IS an old racing trick, and for SMALL drops it's a reasonable bucks-down method of lowering. I've cut springs myself (although not on anything recently) and also done a slightly different cheapie spring mod that accomplishes the same thing.

But there's quite a few things to consider, so don't just get out the cutoff wheel or fire up the acetylene torch and go on a cutting spree. Here are just some items. I'm keeping the discussion general since I would need quite a few exact dimensions in order to make any specific recommendations.

If the springs are tapered in some fashion (thicker wire at one end or the outsides of the coils themselves in a slightly conical shape) or progressive (coils closer together at one end) or ground flat on both ends, you really should just get the aftermarket springs. Cutting them is possible but far trickier to do than cutting a plain end spring.

Unless somebody has already cut the springs on an identical car with identical springs and kept detailed records regarding exactly how much was ultimately cut, cut only a small amount, drive it a while, and then re-evaluate. If you cut only 1/4 coil too much, you might get 1/2" too much drop, so it's better to cut too little the first time and then cut again.

I'd use a carbide hacksaw blade (they can cut nearly anything) for minumum heating of the spring, but if you use acetylene, keep the rest of the spring as cool as possible to avoid taking all the heat treatment out of the part of the spring that you're going to keep (a wet rag or laying the spring on its side in a pan of water come to mind). Even using a cutoff wheel can get things pretty hot, so occasional cooling with that method wouldn't hurt.

Springs will become somewhat stiffer after you cut them. This helps you deal with the reduced ground clearance that you're after (a good thing). It also means that there is a smaller metal volume in the spring than before, so the energy per unit volume from any given amount of spring compression goes up (not such a good thing). And the greater spring rate will shorten shock life, same as with aftermarket springs (although not as quickly) You'll want to make sure that both fronts are cut by the same amount. Same goes for the rears. This is for ride and handling symmetry left to right (a corkscrew ride motion can result from a severe case of unequal cutting).

Don't forget the effect the shorter spring will have on your alignment. You'll definitely have some camber change and probably some toe change since the angles of everything in the front suspension will change. If your front drop differs much from the rear drop, you will also get a little caster change.

Out back, you'll get more roll induced axle steer. Fortunately this will result in a bit more understeer, so you might want to add a RSB to help dial some of it back out for more nimble handling.

This has gotten long enough, hope I haven't put everybody to sleep.

Norm