Alright, this is gonna be a long post, read THOROUGHLY for those that have the 2K2 HIDs AND AfterMarket HIDs. ICE and SixMan, give me your input, if I am wrong let me know, no flamming.

Alright, well after EXSTENSIVELY looking at the wiring diagrams of the Theft system and Headlight Relays, we have a small problem. Right now when the Alarm goes off, the HIDs also flash, which is not good or necessary. I was attempting to figure out a way to make it so that the HighBeams would flash instead BUT ran into a problem which is going to make it not possible without some major rewiring which I dont want to do.

Alright, we all know that that the H4 plug uses a Common 12V and switched Grounds for Lows(Xenons) and Highs. Well to fix the High Beam problem, you either went with ICE's way of wiring, or My way of just grounding the ground wire on the Xenons to the body. Now, this still leaves that the Common 12V is shared by both the Highs and Xenons.

Now the Alarm tells the Headlamp relays to flash the 12V wire. Now with my setup of grounding the Xenons, it still makes the Xenons flash, I also believe it makes the Xenons flash with ICEs plan. The problem lies in that the Alarm System tells it to flash the 12V wire. Now I looked at ICEs wiring plan, and it dont seem possible to make the HighBeams flash with the alarm with his plan either. But with my wiring plan, this is for sure a dillema and a problem. Cause it would work out if the Relay was flashing the Switched Ground also, but the theft system only tells the 12V to flash, and by default it activates the switched ground for the LOWS (Xenons) ONLY.

So the best solution is to just cut that wire and dont let it FLASH either the Xenons or the Highs. This will ALSO work for those of you that have just an AFTERMARKET HID kit installed, cause your AFTERMARKET HID flashes also. Now I know most of you dont care about it that way, but I was just seeing if I could do it the right way and make the Highs Flash.

Now if you do want to cut the wire, I will make a nice WriteUp on it, but if you want to know what wire to cut, it is a PINK wire, pin6 on Joint Connector 16. This is from the ESM, for those of you that dont have the ESM, wait for the writeup.

Dixit

 

the old teach a man to fish tactic

 

I am not the GREATEST with these Wiring diagrams, I looked at them for like 2hrs, and got brain tangled.

How you suggest how this can be done? I seem to think it is not possible to just re-wire the relay, cause the same 12V line is still shared. Unless you suggest running a new wire to each 9005 bulb.
Help a brother out and how this can be done, cause this would be nice if I and all the others can get the highs to flash with the alarm

 

I already explained how to solve this, but I haven't had the time to do it. I'll try and remember what I figured out, but I need to refresh my memory on how the system works. In my current setup BOTH the LO and HIGH beams "should" flash with the alarm. Therefore, all you need is to cut the CORRECT pink wire that activates the headlamp relays. One of the PINK wires activates/closes the headlamp relays from the Headlamp Battery Saver Control Unit. This PINK wire is used to turn on/off the headlamps with the switch and prevent killing the battery. DO NO CUT! The other PINK wire goes to the THEFT Warning System. This wire activates/closes the headlamp relays causing the headlamps to flash for the ALARM. CUT this one.

The ONLY problem is how to get to it. This I have NOT figured out. You need to cut the PINK wire that is shown on page EL-287. It connects the headlamp relays on the next page to the JOINT CONNECTOR-16(DIODE) terminal 6. I'll try and find my notes on the location of each connector and where it's located incase anyone(DIXIT) would like to beat me too it.

 

This is the EXACT wire I said on the top of the thread. HAHAHAH! We on the right track. And yes, I guess that is the problem, trying to find out where this Joint Connector 16(DIODE) is located. I mean the ESM dont even say where they are.

Dixit

 

Yes, it does. You didn't look hard enough.

Check the Harness Layout(EL-351). E88 is the connector reference for Joint Connector-16 and it tells you the color and type of connector you're looking for.

It's under the dash on the drivers' side and it should be White with 6-pins. Find the CORRECT pink wire and cut.

I had EVERYTHING written down, but I cleaned up my desk and I can't find my DAMN notes. As soon as I find them I will tell you all I know and the rest is just determining where the PINK wire goes to know whether or not it is the correct wire.

 

Thanks ICE, I so freagin stupid with this ESM, I dont think I know how to fully use this damn thing. SON OF A.............

Well I will probably tommorow do this, if I cut the wrong wire, I guess I will have to butt connect the bastard back up and cut the right one, hopefully I trace the joint before cutting the wrong one.

 

Cool. Let me know.

After that, I can help you locate the wire to cut to disable the AUTO position, so you don't get the FLICKER between off/auto/run/on.

 

This not a huge concern to me since I always leave it on AUTO, but yeah I would still want to know. BUT will this disable my AUTO feature?

 

Yes, it will disable the AUTO. I don't like the AUTO, since it turns on/off/on/off... the lights when it's dusk. Just personal preference, but the dumb a$$ engineer should have had AUTO as the last switch position not the 2nd.

Also, I believe the connector is Sky Blue not White. I believe that's what color 'SB' stands for.

 

hey guys, is it possible to switch the wires on the harness(light switch) ? like switching the cables for AUTO to the ON position and opposite? would that be doable????

 

Probably doable, except that what ICE said is true, the engineering it retarded, cause even if you swtich the wires, then you run into the same Flicker if you wanted to just turn on your parking lights. Not much use there, actually more worse cause then it will FLICKER all the time, where with the Auto, it only flickers when the sensor senses it is dark out and activates the AUTO feature.

 

I'm looking in my 2001 service manual in section EL and the pages and joint connector you mention don't jive. Could they have changed so much in one model year from 2000? I too am pouring over the wiring diagrams and trying to figure how to get only the high beams to flash, but the fix is not obvious. The Smart Entrance Control Module provides path to ground for both headlight relays under normal headlight operation as well as intermittent ground to flash headlights under alarm condition.

 

What about the coil side of the relay?

The ground path through the Theft Warning Horn Relay-2 is what controls the relays closing. This is controlled by the Smart Entrance Control Units' Alarm Output terminal #4, which causes the Theft Warning Horn Relay-2 to close. Is this what your refering to?

Is there any way you can post this?

 

I'm looking at schematics in the "EL" section of the three volume Service Manual Nissan publishes. Vehicle Security Horn Relay-2's coil is grounded through the Smart Entrance Control Unit. It's contact closes and provides ground for Veh. Security Horn Relay-1 whose contact closes and provides 12V to sound the Vehicle Security Horn. Neither of these seem to have anything to do with the operation of the headlight relays under normal operating conditions or in alarm mode. Since this is the printed version of the manual there is no easy way to post schematics and sometimes its difficult to describe in words all information conveyed schematically.
The other issue is the SECU is a microprocessor based device with some fifty wires connected to it. It controls headlamps, chimes, defoggers, door locks, remotes, security, interior lamps, battery saver and retained power control. Its outputs are based on the status of inputs and the canned program it was given at the factory. This makes trouble shooting difficult since every input may not be tied directly to an output.

 

Oh man, you got this in a PDF or hard copy? If you got it in Hard Copy, you gotta tell me WHICH wire is the Horn Chirp wire off the SMART Entrance Control Unit, in the 2000 Manual it states it is a GREEN/White, well there aint no Green/White wire when I looked. I am trying to cut off the Horn Chirp with the alarm when the car is locked.

Man if you got the PDF, PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAAAAAASE hook me up with the file

 

Hmmm. Some sounds the same, but I don't know. I guess we'll see what Dixit comes up with tomorrow.

Do you have a scanner or fax machine? If so, would it be possible to send me the schematic page with the HeadLamp Relays. Thanks.

 

All you have to do to get rid of the horn chirp is hold down the lock and unlock buttons for 5 seconds I think the time is. I don't like mine chirping either.

 

Um you aint read the other posts. I KNOW that I can turn it off off that way, but when I then UNLOCK the car, it will not BLINK the turn signals. It will only BLINK the turnsignals when you ARM or LOCK the car.

I WANT IT TO BLINK on BOTH THE LOCK AND UNLOCK

 

Ah ha, sorry about that... guess I skimmed the posts a little too much.

 

Thats cool man, I just looked at the ESM and it dont look like their is a way.