2K2 Alarm Fix not possible, BIG PROBLEM!
2K2 Alarm Fix not possible, BIG PROBLEM!
Well after consulting with ICE and getting the 2K1 wiring schematic from 2maxguy (Thanks for the diagrams by the way) I believe there is no way this alarm fix is going to be possible without some MAJOR modifications to the SMART entrance unit.
ICE, you said to cut the PINK wire, well on a 2K1, there are actually two PINK wires coming from the SMART unit, one for the Left and Right headlamp assembly.
Now if you cut this wire, the Alarm will not flash the HIDs, thinking great the joint works. Well turned on the headlights, and guess what? THEY DONT TURN ON!! The pink wire is actually a ground wire, when ground is supplied, the headlamps TURN ON. Now the SMART unit controls the ground on this wire, either when the alarm goes off, headlamps are turned on, or the auto feature kicks in.
So as far as my knowledge and using my friend who is an electronics major, he said THERE IS NO WAY to get around this unless you do some major rewiring to get around the relay AND the SMART unit. That we are talking about a MAJOR MAJOR MAJOR rewiring job.
Funny thing is that they call it the SMART entrance unit, well looks like Nissan OUTSMARTED us with this freagin SMART-A$$ unit.
Sadly
Dixit
ICE, you said to cut the PINK wire, well on a 2K1, there are actually two PINK wires coming from the SMART unit, one for the Left and Right headlamp assembly.
Now if you cut this wire, the Alarm will not flash the HIDs, thinking great the joint works. Well turned on the headlights, and guess what? THEY DONT TURN ON!! The pink wire is actually a ground wire, when ground is supplied, the headlamps TURN ON. Now the SMART unit controls the ground on this wire, either when the alarm goes off, headlamps are turned on, or the auto feature kicks in.
So as far as my knowledge and using my friend who is an electronics major, he said THERE IS NO WAY to get around this unless you do some major rewiring to get around the relay AND the SMART unit. That we are talking about a MAJOR MAJOR MAJOR rewiring job.
Funny thing is that they call it the SMART entrance unit, well looks like Nissan OUTSMARTED us with this freagin SMART-A$$ unit.
Sadly
Dixit
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 98
Possible Fix-Phase 1
When I installed my 2K2 HID's I used my own scheme borrowing heavily from what you and IceY2K1 posted. I used the +12V from old H4 plug as + for HID low beam and grounded LB directly to body ground screw. For 9005 high beam I picked up +12V battery power from a tab in under-hood fuse/fuselink box, put in an inline 20 amp fuse through 12AWG wire, split the lead into two legs (one for each side)and ran each to terminal 30 of a Hella (#87106) relay. Jumpered over to terminal 85 (coil +), terminal 87 was switched +12V to one side of 9005 lamp, terminal 86 was coil ground which I ran to Highbeam ground of old H4 plug and finally ran ground leg of 9005 to body ground screw.
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
Re: Possible Fix-Phase 1
Originally posted by 2maxguy
When I installed my 2K2 HID's I used my own scheme borrowing heavily from what you and IceY2K1 posted. I used the +12V from old H4 plug as + for HID low beam and grounded LB directly to body ground screw. For 9005 high beam I picked up +12V battery power from a tab in under-hood fuse/fuselink box, put in an inline 20 amp fuse through 12AWG wire, split the lead into two legs (one for each side)and ran each to terminal 30 of a Hella (#87106) relay. Jumpered over to terminal 85 (coil +), terminal 87 was switched +12V to one side of 9005 lamp, terminal 86 was coil ground which I ran to Highbeam ground of old H4 plug and finally ran ground leg of 9005 to body ground screw.
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
When I installed my 2K2 HID's I used my own scheme borrowing heavily from what you and IceY2K1 posted. I used the +12V from old H4 plug as + for HID low beam and grounded LB directly to body ground screw. For 9005 high beam I picked up +12V battery power from a tab in under-hood fuse/fuselink box, put in an inline 20 amp fuse through 12AWG wire, split the lead into two legs (one for each side)and ran each to terminal 30 of a Hella (#87106) relay. Jumpered over to terminal 85 (coil +), terminal 87 was switched +12V to one side of 9005 lamp, terminal 86 was coil ground which I ran to Highbeam ground of old H4 plug and finally ran ground leg of 9005 to body ground screw.
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
Old Fuddy Duddy
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 2,712
Re: Possible Fix-Phase 1
Originally posted by 2maxguy
When I installed my 2K2 HID's I used my own scheme borrowing heavily from what you and IceY2K1 posted. I used the +12V from old H4 plug as + for HID low beam and grounded LB directly to body ground screw. For 9005 high beam I picked up +12V battery power from a tab in under-hood fuse/fuselink box, put in an inline 20 amp fuse through 12AWG wire, split the lead into two legs (one for each side)and ran each to terminal 30 of a Hella (#87106) relay. Jumpered over to terminal 85 (coil +), terminal 87 was switched +12V to one side of 9005 lamp, terminal 86 was coil ground which I ran to Highbeam ground of old H4 plug and finally ran ground leg of 9005 to body ground screw.
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
When I installed my 2K2 HID's I used my own scheme borrowing heavily from what you and IceY2K1 posted. I used the +12V from old H4 plug as + for HID low beam and grounded LB directly to body ground screw. For 9005 high beam I picked up +12V battery power from a tab in under-hood fuse/fuselink box, put in an inline 20 amp fuse through 12AWG wire, split the lead into two legs (one for each side)and ran each to terminal 30 of a Hella (#87106) relay. Jumpered over to terminal 85 (coil +), terminal 87 was switched +12V to one side of 9005 lamp, terminal 86 was coil ground which I ran to Highbeam ground of old H4 plug and finally ran ground leg of 9005 to body ground screw.
This setup allowed me to have both HB and LB on at same time, no problems with flickering HB indicator, HB had own fused power source,with just parking lights on pushing stalk foward allowed me to run only HB...lots of flexibility. Still had flashing HID LB in alarm condition.
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
Say What??????????
Dude, cut back on the MOUNTAIN DEW! Just joking.
Dixit, if all else fails, simply put a relay(or 2) on the HIDs. Since, you power the 9005 off the same H4 wire, just put the relay inbetween the HID and the ground screw. Have the coil energized by SOMETHING that receives power ONLY when the key is on. Simple, eh.
I was hoping not to need additional relays, but they might be a necessary bandaid.
Dixit, if all else fails, simply put a relay(or 2) on the HIDs. Since, you power the 9005 off the same H4 wire, just put the relay inbetween the HID and the ground screw. Have the coil energized by SOMETHING that receives power ONLY when the key is on. Simple, eh.
I was hoping not to need additional relays, but they might be a necessary bandaid.
Re: Possible Fix-Phase 1
Originally posted by 2maxguy
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
Possible solution: install another 87106 relay to break the ground leg that attaches to body ground screw. Its coil would receive power from + leg of clear running light which sits right next door. Coil ground would go right to body ground. Under alarm conditon +12V would be sent to LB but since the ground would be open, no flashing HID LB.
Phase 2 would route +12 to HB possibly through a double pole Nissan relay (1NO-1NC).????
Only solution I see if finding the wire coming out of the switch and auto, and running it through the firewall and connecting that to the relay, BUT it has to be a ground switched wire. This is going to be more complicated then I thought.
Now I dont know how it works on a 2K Max, this is a completely different wiring from a 2K to a 2K1.
Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Dude, cut back on the MOUNTAIN DEW! Just joking.
Dixit, if all else fails, simply put a relay(or 2) on the HIDs. Since, you power the 9005 off the same H4 wire, just put the relay inbetween the HID and the ground screw. Have the coil energized by SOMETHING that receives power ONLY when the key is on. Simple, eh.
I was hoping not to need additional relays, but they might be a necessary bandaid.
Dude, cut back on the MOUNTAIN DEW! Just joking.
Dixit, if all else fails, simply put a relay(or 2) on the HIDs. Since, you power the 9005 off the same H4 wire, just put the relay inbetween the HID and the ground screw. Have the coil energized by SOMETHING that receives power ONLY when the key is on. Simple, eh.
I was hoping not to need additional relays, but they might be a necessary bandaid.
Secondly, I think you are missing my point or I am not understanding you, the headlamp relay are activated by when the pink wire is grounded. So I cant get around that FOR SURE. Only way I see it possible is running a whole NEW power wire for the HIDs also like you have for the HIGHs and then somehow getting that to switch with the HIDs. The only way this is possible is if you COMPLETELY bypass the SMART unit and the Headlamp relay.
GOD DAMN SMART Unit! I swear that thing is freagin NISSAN **** Unit.
Re: Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
First of all, HOW YOU KNOW I DRINK MOUNTAIN DEW LIKE CRAZY?? HAHHAHA
Secondly, I think you are missing my point or I am not understanding you, the headlamp relay are activated by when the pink wire is grounded. So I cant get around that FOR SURE. Only way I see it possible is running a whole NEW power wire for the HIDs also like you have for the HIGHs and then somehow getting that to switch with the HIDs. The only way this is possible is if you COMPLETELY bypass the SMART unit and the Headlamp relay.
GOD DAMN SMART Unit! I swear that thing is freagin NISSAN **** Unit.
First of all, HOW YOU KNOW I DRINK MOUNTAIN DEW LIKE CRAZY?? HAHHAHA
Secondly, I think you are missing my point or I am not understanding you, the headlamp relay are activated by when the pink wire is grounded. So I cant get around that FOR SURE. Only way I see it possible is running a whole NEW power wire for the HIDs also like you have for the HIGHs and then somehow getting that to switch with the HIDs. The only way this is possible is if you COMPLETELY bypass the SMART unit and the Headlamp relay.
GOD DAMN SMART Unit! I swear that thing is freagin NISSAN **** Unit.
Anyways, even with your setup you can "break" the path to ground so the HIDs will not have a complete circuit.
Even if the headlamp relays are energized, the path to ground will not be complete, since your NEW relays are open. Once the ignition key is turned on the NEW relays close, completing the circuit thus providing a path to ground through the ground screw, and finally turning on the HIDs. See what I'm saying.
The DUMB Control Unit will activate the LH/RH relays, but the NEW relays will prevent the HIDs from having the necessary grounding point/screw to complete the circuit and turn on. Man this $hit is hard to explain. I see it in my head, but explaining it is a B!TCH
Re: Re: Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Actually, the DEW comment was towards the 2maxguy. I'm a DEW addict myself.
Anyways, even with your setup you can "break" the path to ground so the HIDs will not have a complete circuit.
Even if the headlamp relays are energized, the path to ground will not be complete, since your NEW relays are open. Once the ignition key is turned on the NEW relays close, completing the circuit thus providing a path to ground through the ground screw, and finally turning on the HIDs. See what I'm saying.
The DUMB Control Unit will activate the LH/RH relays, but the NEW relays will prevent the HIDs from having the necessary grounding point/screw to complete the circuit and turn on. Man this $hit is hard to explain. I see it in my head, but explaining it is a B!TCH
Actually, the DEW comment was towards the 2maxguy. I'm a DEW addict myself.
Anyways, even with your setup you can "break" the path to ground so the HIDs will not have a complete circuit.
Even if the headlamp relays are energized, the path to ground will not be complete, since your NEW relays are open. Once the ignition key is turned on the NEW relays close, completing the circuit thus providing a path to ground through the ground screw, and finally turning on the HIDs. See what I'm saying.
The DUMB Control Unit will activate the LH/RH relays, but the NEW relays will prevent the HIDs from having the necessary grounding point/screw to complete the circuit and turn on. Man this $hit is hard to explain. I see it in my head, but explaining it is a B!TCH
I think I might wait till I see your attempt on it or 2maxguy's. I am brain fried over this crap. Seems so freagin simple when I got the bastard from DaveB and now it turned into a freagin complicated fiasco.
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 98
Re: Re: Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Actually, the DEW comment was towards the 2maxguy. I'm a DEW addict myself.
Anyways, even with your setup you can "break" the path to ground so the HIDs will not have a complete circuit.
Even if the headlamp relays are energized, the path to ground will not be complete, since your NEW relays are open. Once the ignition key is turned on the NEW relays close, completing the circuit thus providing a path to ground through the ground screw, and finally turning on the HIDs. See what I'm saying.
The DUMB Control Unit will activate the LH/RH relays, but the NEW relays will prevent the HIDs from having the necessary grounding point/screw to complete the circuit and turn on. Man this $hit is hard to explain. I see it in my head, but explaining it is a B!TCH
Actually, the DEW comment was towards the 2maxguy. I'm a DEW addict myself.
Anyways, even with your setup you can "break" the path to ground so the HIDs will not have a complete circuit.
Even if the headlamp relays are energized, the path to ground will not be complete, since your NEW relays are open. Once the ignition key is turned on the NEW relays close, completing the circuit thus providing a path to ground through the ground screw, and finally turning on the HIDs. See what I'm saying.
The DUMB Control Unit will activate the LH/RH relays, but the NEW relays will prevent the HIDs from having the necessary grounding point/screw to complete the circuit and turn on. Man this $hit is hard to explain. I see it in my head, but explaining it is a B!TCH
Re: Re: Re: Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by 2maxguy
Thank you! For saying in so few words what took me so many. Reguardless of what wiring scheme used, if you can break the HID ground leg, you prevent HID's flashing under alarm. My brain needs a rest or some alcohol?
Thank you! For saying in so few words what took me so many. Reguardless of what wiring scheme used, if you can break the HID ground leg, you prevent HID's flashing under alarm. My brain needs a rest or some alcohol?
By the ground leg, you are talking about breaking that pink wire right? Cause that is a ground switched wire.
Man I need this **** in a schematic form now, freagin brain is fried over trying to write this crap. I am almost through with this crap. GOD DAMN SMART UNIT.......
Re: Re: serin
Originally posted by serin
nope. what post?
nope. what post?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=69583
sorry that took so long
Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Say What??????????
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Man I need this **** in a schematic form now, freagin brain is fried over trying to write this crap. I am almost through with this crap. GOD DAMN SMART UNIT.......
Man I need this **** in a schematic form now, freagin brain is fried over trying to write this crap. I am almost through with this crap. GOD DAMN SMART UNIT.......
Anyways, I'll try and draw up a schematic tomorrow at work, so you can see what I'm talking about.
Later.
yep..
HID's relayed.. Coil side (-) to switch, (+) side to switched accessory. I get what youre saying ICE. Now I'm just worried about getting all those connections tight and waterproof. thats the trick.
thats the trick.
Re: yep..
Originally posted by TimW
HID's relayed.. Coil side (-) to switch, (+) side to switched accessory. I get what youre saying ICE. Now I'm just worried about getting all those connections tight and waterproof. thats the trick.
HID's relayed.. Coil side (-) to switch, (+) side to switched accessory. I get what youre saying ICE. Now I'm just worried about getting all those connections tight and waterproof.
thats the trick.
The catalog is FREE and they make nice stuff. Once I get my order I'll let you know. Here's what I'm talking about: http://www.painlessperformance.com/fuseblock.htm
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 637
since the wiring differ's slightly from the 2k model to the 2k1, will I have all of these problems AND more? Hopefully it'll be less. Is there anyone else other than Kev that has a 2k with the lights? I'd like to be able to compare wiring differences if there needs to be any. Thanks guys, I hope we (mostly you because I definately don't know as much) can figure all of this out.
Originally posted by Keh mon
since the wiring differ's slightly from the 2k model to the 2k1, will I have all of these problems AND more? Hopefully it'll be less. Is there anyone else other than Kev that has a 2k with the lights? I'd like to be able to compare wiring differences if there needs to be any. Thanks guys, I hope we (mostly you because I definately don't know as much) can figure all of this out.
since the wiring differ's slightly from the 2k model to the 2k1, will I have all of these problems AND more? Hopefully it'll be less. Is there anyone else other than Kev that has a 2k with the lights? I'd like to be able to compare wiring differences if there needs to be any. Thanks guys, I hope we (mostly you because I definately don't know as much) can figure all of this out.
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 45
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,081
Re: 2K2 Alarm Fix not possible, BIG PROBLEM!
Dam Dog stop scaring about all this ALARM CRAP stuff. I get my 2k2 hid lights tommorrow.. i dont even think i want to install them now..
Anyway , who gotz a viper 550ESP alarm.. i need to know the dealy on how to make it compatible with the new lights..
PM me please.
Peace
Roger
Anyway , who gotz a viper 550ESP alarm.. i need to know the dealy on how to make it compatible with the new lights..
PM me please.
Peace
Roger
Re: Re: 2K2 Alarm Fix not possible, BIG PROBLEM!
Originally posted by radpp16
Dam Dog stop scaring about all this ALARM CRAP stuff. I get my 2k2 hid lights tommorrow.. i dont even think i want to install them now..
Anyway , who gotz a viper 550ESP alarm.. i need to know the dealy on how to make it compatible with the new lights..
PM me please.
Peace
Roger
Dam Dog stop scaring about all this ALARM CRAP stuff. I get my 2k2 hid lights tommorrow.. i dont even think i want to install them now..
Anyway , who gotz a viper 550ESP alarm.. i need to know the dealy on how to make it compatible with the new lights..
PM me please.
Peace
Roger
Member
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 55
wiring harness
like i posted earlier, e-mail painless wiring and ask if they will
come up with the entire fix all together instead.
if they get enough interest, they will build it......
if they build it, we will come........
YJ, no flaming me b/c i'm a newbie still.
come up with the entire fix all together instead.
if they get enough interest, they will build it......
if they build it, we will come........
YJ, no flaming me b/c i'm a newbie still.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 163
Well i noticed when I arm and disarm the car the parking lights flashes, but when the alarm is setoff or pressing the panic button the headlight flashes. So is there a way to wire it so that the highbeam will flash instead? I think that was a question brought up earlier.
Originally posted by nizmomx
Well i noticed when I arm and disarm the car the parking lights flashes, but when the alarm is setoff or pressing the panic button the headlight flashes. So is there a way to wire it so that the highbeam will flash instead? I think that was a question brought up earlier.
Well i noticed when I arm and disarm the car the parking lights flashes, but when the alarm is setoff or pressing the panic button the headlight flashes. So is there a way to wire it so that the highbeam will flash instead? I think that was a question brought up earlier.
ICE is currently working on it and will be giving us a diagram of what he is talking about. BUT REMEMBER this is for a 2K1, the wiring on a 2K is completely different and dont know how that works.
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
Well not to sound like I am flaming ot an A$$, but if you read the earlier posts you would see that we are running into a problem with the 2K1's since the PINK wire is a ground output wire for the headlight relay. If you cut it, you assume that the headlights will never flash during the alarm, BUT, if you cut it (Like what i did) the headlights no longer turn on. That wire is a multi purpose wire, it is used to flash for alarm, ground the relay to turn on the headlights either in the on or auto position. So we need to figure out a way around that.
ICE is currently working on it and will be giving us a diagram of what he is talking about. BUT REMEMBER this is for a 2K1, the wiring on a 2K is completely different and dont know how that works.
Well not to sound like I am flaming ot an A$$, but if you read the earlier posts you would see that we are running into a problem with the 2K1's since the PINK wire is a ground output wire for the headlight relay. If you cut it, you assume that the headlights will never flash during the alarm, BUT, if you cut it (Like what i did) the headlights no longer turn on. That wire is a multi purpose wire, it is used to flash for alarm, ground the relay to turn on the headlights either in the on or auto position. So we need to figure out a way around that.
ICE is currently working on it and will be giving us a diagram of what he is talking about. BUT REMEMBER this is for a 2K1, the wiring on a 2K is completely different and dont know how that works.
I'm POSITIVE adding 2-relays on the HIDs ground wire will fix it. The relay closes by tapping the running lights power wire. This would be the simplest solution to your setup. I'm going to go with a combination of mine and 2maxguys' setup for my FINAL setup.
I'm working on the schematics and I'll post ASAP.
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Dixit, Actually Ray(2maxguy) ALREADY has a solution to the problem. His setup requires 4-relays total, but looks BULLETPROOF. He faxed it to me and I GLANCED it over. You should have him send it to you if you don't already have it.
I'm POSITIVE adding 2-relays on the HIDs ground wire will fix it. The relay closes by tapping the running lights power wire. This would be the simplest solution to your setup. I'm going to go with a combination of mine and 2maxguys' setup for my FINAL setup.
I'm working on the schematics and I'll post ASAP.
Dixit, Actually Ray(2maxguy) ALREADY has a solution to the problem. His setup requires 4-relays total, but looks BULLETPROOF. He faxed it to me and I GLANCED it over. You should have him send it to you if you don't already have it.
I'm POSITIVE adding 2-relays on the HIDs ground wire will fix it. The relay closes by tapping the running lights power wire. This would be the simplest solution to your setup. I'm going to go with a combination of mine and 2maxguys' setup for my FINAL setup.
I'm working on the schematics and I'll post ASAP.
AND ICE!!!
I actually am kinda stupid that I did not think of that in the first place. DAMN......... But one more question, will the auto feature still work?
Dixit
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
I GOT YOU! GREAT!!! So all I gotta do is tap the running light wire and the relay closes causing the lights to turn on. THANKS 2MAXGUY!!!
AND ICE!!!
I actually am kinda stupid that I did not think of that in the first place. DAMN......... But one more question, will the auto feature still work?
Dixit
I GOT YOU! GREAT!!! So all I gotta do is tap the running light wire and the relay closes causing the lights to turn on. THANKS 2MAXGUY!!!
AND ICE!!!
I actually am kinda stupid that I did not think of that in the first place. DAMN......... But one more question, will the auto feature still work?
Dixit
Member
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 98
Originally posted by IceY2K1
Dixit, Actually Ray(2maxguy) ALREADY has a solution to the problem. His setup requires 4-relays total, but looks BULLETPROOF. He faxed it to me and I GLANCED it over. You should have him send it to you if you don't already have it.
I'm POSITIVE adding 2-relays on the HIDs ground wire will fix it. The relay closes by tapping the running lights power wire. This would be the simplest solution to your setup. I'm going to go with a combination of mine and 2maxguys' setup for my FINAL setup.
I'm working on the schematics and I'll post ASAP.
Dixit, Actually Ray(2maxguy) ALREADY has a solution to the problem. His setup requires 4-relays total, but looks BULLETPROOF. He faxed it to me and I GLANCED it over. You should have him send it to you if you don't already have it.
I'm POSITIVE adding 2-relays on the HIDs ground wire will fix it. The relay closes by tapping the running lights power wire. This would be the simplest solution to your setup. I'm going to go with a combination of mine and 2maxguys' setup for my FINAL setup.
I'm working on the schematics and I'll post ASAP.
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 780
I'm noticing a lot of questions as to flashing the HIDs will kill it or not and the alarm issue with the lights. Has anyone actually had checked a 02 maxima and see how the lights work? ie... HID Stay on when high beams are on... (I think that's probably been answered from NIssan's website and pictures), whether the HIDs flash when the alarm goes off on an 02? If it doesn't then I'll shut up, but if it does, then I would say it probably wouldn't hurt it because Nissan left it that way. And I would hope they want theiir product to last.
Originally posted by young1976
I'm noticing a lot of questions as to flashing the HIDs will kill it or not and the alarm issue with the lights. Has anyone actually had checked a 02 maxima and see how the lights work? ie... HID Stay on when high beams are on... (I think that's probably been answered from NIssan's website and pictures), whether the HIDs flash when the alarm goes off on an 02? If it doesn't then I'll shut up, but if it does, then I would say it probably wouldn't hurt it because Nissan left it that way. And I would hope they want theiir product to last.
I'm noticing a lot of questions as to flashing the HIDs will kill it or not and the alarm issue with the lights. Has anyone actually had checked a 02 maxima and see how the lights work? ie... HID Stay on when high beams are on... (I think that's probably been answered from NIssan's website and pictures), whether the HIDs flash when the alarm goes off on an 02? If it doesn't then I'll shut up, but if it does, then I would say it probably wouldn't hurt it because Nissan left it that way. And I would hope they want theiir product to last.
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