Fail-Safe MODE...ANyone ?
#1
Fail-Safe MODE...ANyone ?
Well Somehow or Another my car has gone in to FAIL-SAFE MODE.
AFter getting the new clutch put in the car didnt run the same, real sluggish Etc Etc.
I got a CEL light for Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensors (POS) P0011 & P0020
AFter i little Research at a friends shop with his Snap-On DIagnostic machines etc.. we found out
" Malfuntion is detected when there is a gap between angle of target and phase control angle degree. Posible causes are:
- IVT control solenoid valve circuit open or shorted
- Defective IVT control solenoid valve
- Defective crankshaft Postition sensor (POS)
- Defective Camshaft Position sensor (PHASE)
- Debris accumulated on signal pick-up portion of camshaft
When this malfuntion is detected, ECM enters FAIL-SAFE MODE , MIL will illuminate, and ECM will not energize IVT control soleniod valve"
OK, so I went ahead spent $$$$$ on all new CamShaft Position sensors, Camshaft position sensors and IVT control solenoids. But guess what the car still RUNS LIKE POOPOO !!
What i CANT understand is WHY all of a sudden did the car decide to go into FAIL-SAFE MODE after a new clutch was put in ??? WTF ?!?!? Anybody ?
I have to go to nissan from what im gathering and they have to use their specialzed computer thingi to clear the fail-safe mode off the car... I GUESS ??!! I dont know.. is there any other way to Get it out of this SAFE-MODE ?
any ideas what can be causing this AFTER a new clutch was put in ? im REALLY STUMPED right now.. REALLY.
SO ANY HELP would be appreciated ! thanks.
BTW the Battery was disconnected for more then 48Hours during the clutch install.. but i doubt that has anything to do with it .... right?
AFter getting the new clutch put in the car didnt run the same, real sluggish Etc Etc.
I got a CEL light for Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensors (POS) P0011 & P0020
AFter i little Research at a friends shop with his Snap-On DIagnostic machines etc.. we found out
" Malfuntion is detected when there is a gap between angle of target and phase control angle degree. Posible causes are:
- IVT control solenoid valve circuit open or shorted
- Defective IVT control solenoid valve
- Defective crankshaft Postition sensor (POS)
- Defective Camshaft Position sensor (PHASE)
- Debris accumulated on signal pick-up portion of camshaft
When this malfuntion is detected, ECM enters FAIL-SAFE MODE , MIL will illuminate, and ECM will not energize IVT control soleniod valve"
OK, so I went ahead spent $$$$$ on all new CamShaft Position sensors, Camshaft position sensors and IVT control solenoids. But guess what the car still RUNS LIKE POOPOO !!
What i CANT understand is WHY all of a sudden did the car decide to go into FAIL-SAFE MODE after a new clutch was put in ??? WTF ?!?!? Anybody ?
I have to go to nissan from what im gathering and they have to use their specialzed computer thingi to clear the fail-safe mode off the car... I GUESS ??!! I dont know.. is there any other way to Get it out of this SAFE-MODE ?
any ideas what can be causing this AFTER a new clutch was put in ? im REALLY STUMPED right now.. REALLY.
SO ANY HELP would be appreciated ! thanks.
BTW the Battery was disconnected for more then 48Hours during the clutch install.. but i doubt that has anything to do with it .... right?
Last edited by NiSmOVQ35; 10-04-2007 at 06:41 PM.
#2
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Wrong forum...........
Don't worry about exiting fail-safe mode until you fix the problem.
The trigger wheel for the cps attaches to the flywheel, it must be removed for machining, it get's handled during the process of the clutch job.........
SO, sounds like tranny removal time, but first, remove the cps and have an assistant turn the engine while you shine a light and look into the hole to inspect for damaged teeth, maybe a few got bent, you might even be lucky and you'll be able to straighten them through the hole, unless of course some are broken or somebody forgot to re-install the entire cps trigger wheel.............
Don't worry about exiting fail-safe mode until you fix the problem.
The trigger wheel for the cps attaches to the flywheel, it must be removed for machining, it get's handled during the process of the clutch job.........
SO, sounds like tranny removal time, but first, remove the cps and have an assistant turn the engine while you shine a light and look into the hole to inspect for damaged teeth, maybe a few got bent, you might even be lucky and you'll be able to straighten them through the hole, unless of course some are broken or somebody forgot to re-install the entire cps trigger wheel.............
Last edited by KRRZ350; 10-04-2007 at 07:23 PM.
#3
Wrong forum...........
Don't worry about exiting fail-safe mode until you fix the problem.
The trigger wheel for the cps attaches to the flywheel, it must be removed for machining, it get's handled during the process of the clutch job.........
SO, sounds like tranny removal time, but first, remove the cps and have an assistant turn the engine while you shine a light and look into the hole to inspect for damaged teeth, maybe a few got bent, you might even be lucky and you'll be able to straighten them through the hole, unless of course some are broken or somebody forgot to re-install the entire cps trigger wheel.............
Don't worry about exiting fail-safe mode until you fix the problem.
The trigger wheel for the cps attaches to the flywheel, it must be removed for machining, it get's handled during the process of the clutch job.........
SO, sounds like tranny removal time, but first, remove the cps and have an assistant turn the engine while you shine a light and look into the hole to inspect for damaged teeth, maybe a few got bent, you might even be lucky and you'll be able to straighten them through the hole, unless of course some are broken or somebody forgot to re-install the entire cps trigger wheel.............
as far as i know .. i dont know about a TRIGGER WHEEL.. could you please explain further. Thank you.
BTW i took out the CRank position sensor ( the one your takign about that attached between the tranny and engine.. and there was some metal particles on it....
#5
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Thank's mystery mod
See the teeth in that hole, that's the trigger wheel, the crankshaft position sensor (pos) detects magnetic pulses each time a tooth passes by it. Here's another shot,
allthough your set-up will look somewhat different because that is a 4th gen cps welded to the back of a 5.5 gen jwt flywheel, but hopefully it gives you an idea........ Now, I thought you said you tried replacing the actual sensor, but it sounds like on that particular one you just cleaned the metal shacings off. Remove it, inspect the tip for chips, shine a light in the hole while turning engine and inspect all the teeth, and go from there. fsm is available on vq35de.com, it has testing procedures.
See the teeth in that hole, that's the trigger wheel, the crankshaft position sensor (pos) detects magnetic pulses each time a tooth passes by it. Here's another shot,
allthough your set-up will look somewhat different because that is a 4th gen cps welded to the back of a 5.5 gen jwt flywheel, but hopefully it gives you an idea........ Now, I thought you said you tried replacing the actual sensor, but it sounds like on that particular one you just cleaned the metal shacings off. Remove it, inspect the tip for chips, shine a light in the hole while turning engine and inspect all the teeth, and go from there. fsm is available on vq35de.com, it has testing procedures.
#6
OK... so arent those teeth attached to the flywheel it self? IIRC.
And how could i have put it in wrong ?
Lets say i take off the tranny i take off the clutch and the flywheel...how would i go about alighing it correctly ?
i cant seem to find info on vq35de.
And how could i have put it in wrong ?
Lets say i take off the tranny i take off the clutch and the flywheel...how would i go about alighing it correctly ?
i cant seem to find info on vq35de.
#7
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WHOA WHOA, Read posts #5 & #2 again, definitly don't take your tranny out just yet!! Remove the sensor and look through the hole while rotating the engine, it could be as simple as metal shavings built up between the teeth or bent teeth that can be straightened through the hole, don't take the tranny out unless you see something wrong that is un-fixable through the hole. Keep in mind the 3.5 timing ring looks different, I think the teeth are much longer/the gaps are fewer and farther between.
#8
WHOA WHOA, Read posts #5 & #2 again, definitly don't take your tranny out just yet!! Remove the sensor and look through the hole while rotating the engine, it could be as simple as metal shavings built up between the teeth or bent teeth that can be straightened through the hole, don't take the tranny out unless you see something wrong that is un-fixable through the hole. Keep in mind the 3.5 timing ring looks different, I think the teeth are much longer/the gaps are fewer and farther between.
anyways i took the sensor out looked into the hole with a flash light and seen NO teeth .and there were no meatl shaving on the NEW CPS sensor i put in. What i saw was a shiney thin piece with little indents every like 1 ince apart. i took pictures and also a short vid of it whiele my friend was turnning the engine. Ill post it up.. lemme know if it looks right.
he has the pic and vid ill get it from him in da mornign and post it up
#10
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Everything looks ok in those pics, yeah on the 3.5 there isn't teeth like on the 3.0, just the little indents every inch apart, my bad I think I should have made that more clear instead I just casually mentioned that the 3.5 one is a little different.
Now, assuming you didn't see any bends in the trigger disc...... hummmm, this is going to get hairy. First, double check that the grounds on the timing cover are nice and clean. Then print off the pages of the fsm related to the crank & cam sensors, and have him help you diagnose it. You said you replaced all the sensors, assuming you didn't drop any of the new ones that rules that out, so you should begin checking the reference voltage etc for the cam and crank sensors, if he has an oscilliscope there that would be of immense help.
Now, assuming you didn't see any bends in the trigger disc...... hummmm, this is going to get hairy. First, double check that the grounds on the timing cover are nice and clean. Then print off the pages of the fsm related to the crank & cam sensors, and have him help you diagnose it. You said you replaced all the sensors, assuming you didn't drop any of the new ones that rules that out, so you should begin checking the reference voltage etc for the cam and crank sensors, if he has an oscilliscope there that would be of immense help.
#12
I dont think thats possible since the flywheel is a 1 piece and everythign is welded on. He didnt take apart anything from the flywheel to resurface, from what im told.
#13
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if its a stock piece the trigger wheel is welded on. try running a wire from the CPS bolt to the ground point on the frame nearby. sometimes that ground is bad and causes issues. and yes, that trigger wheel looks fine assuming there are no dents in the outer surface and it is nice and straight still
#14
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he might not have, but somebody else did, if (and this is only assuming IF it's similiar to a vq30, I could have sworn the flywheel on 6mt's were dual mass non-machinable anyways??) on a vq30 not only does the trigger wheel get removed but also the plate that the trigger wheel bolts to must have the 3 dowels removed and it must be taken off as well, allthough most machinest's have the common sense to mark all of that stuff for rotation/balance reasons anyways.
#15
Yeah I was told that it's not a good idea to resurface the VQ35 flywheel because it is a dual-mass unit. I bought the Fidanza for exactly that reason. People who haven't machined (which is a big no no) or have machined usually report that the car just doesn't seem right'. There's been a few threads on here about it..
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