need a thermostat. is there a good performance thermostat out there? new to the vq community.

 

Performance thermostat is OEM.
They come quite cheap $20 for the thermostat and the metal gasket $8.

 

you dont need a performance one

how exactly will it "perform better"

 

You can mod the stock one, get a Z33 unit, or a Nismo piece.

 

how exactly will it "perform better"

 

+1 Z33

 

it opens sooner

but i would be wary of using a cooler t stat since once water gets too hot its hard to get the temp back down w/ out stopping the vehicle and or turning it off.

 

just get a stock one instead of getting in any trouble.

 

stock oem t-stat WITH Water wetter!

 

holy crap, you have a VQ35 in a sentra and you're worried about a thermostat? lol.. forget about it.. your car has gotta fly with or without this performance thermostat

 

He needs a new one, its not gonna go far w/ out a thermostat.

 

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=536413&page=2

 

 

So, happened to the one you have?

 

get a nismo t-stat. it opens earlier....

 

im not even 100% sure its the thermostat. but its a cheap fix just to see if thats the problem. the car overheats if im in traffic with the a/c on.. i live in florida.. so think of 110 degree temps with two small fans. im putting a 3rd fan on to push hot air out of the engine bay, so that should help. but im gonna replace the stock thermostat anyway. i run at about 250 degrees, which is 50 degrees too hot.

 

NmexMAX, thanks for the help.

 

right.. lol.. guess that might help huh? i mis-read the post.. i thought he was just looking for a performance thermostat as an upgrade

 

Dammit, boy. You stuffed a VQ35DE in that Sentra? That must be a nasty machine.

 

The voltage curve for the sensor doesn't even go that high. It ends @ 230*F (0.01V). You would get an MIL if you were above 221*F.

How are you verifying your exact temperature?

 

110 in traffic w/ A/C on. What radiator are you running? I don't think the stock 2.5 one will cut it. What you need is a "performance" radiator.

 

Units please. I'm assuming *C, but even then that's 230*F, How are you getting this data? Vehicle operating temp (warmed up) occurs @ 160*F, and from what I've observed, it hovers at around 185-196*F. 110*F would not allow the ECU to enter open loop, and the car would run very rich.
I'm hoping/quite sure the VQ35 he got came with a t-stat. And I'm also sure he's not using the QR unit.
Al > *. Cooler t-stat couldn't hurt though.

 

its the stock radiator from my 2.5. out of the 15 swaps that has been performed from a 2.5 to a 3.5, mine is the first with this overheating problem. all have stock radiators. when i can scrounge up some money, im going to buy a performance radiator. but its winter soon, so ill be fine. my mechanic here hooked his computer up to grab all the codes im throwing and making sure thats all good, thats what read 250 degrees, which is hot. im running very rich, which is probably the overheating issue. because of all the codes that i have thrown, the ecu is always in open loop. i want to try and work out the codes one step at a time, but was also told by the motor swap guy not to touch the wiring harness, so im taking it easy.

 

13.3 @106 mph.
60 ft: 2.1

weather is defintely better. thats on the same ****ty street tires that i ran a 14.6 last month with.

 

on rich AFR leading to overheating. Should be opposite if anything.

Do you have an explanation for that?

 

nope. im bad with cars. only overheats in hot weather and sitting in traffic with a/c on.

 

You are going into open loop because of the high coolant temp. Probably explains the rich AFR as well.

 

well then maybe once i get my overheatig issue fixed, my gas mileage will be a bit nicer?

 

Seems like a logical theory.

I would like to see how rich he is. Also, why would he go rich, in particular, in open loop?

 

Per the FSM with the high coolant temp. the ECM will go to open loop and it does "add fuel". With an overheated or hot engine you definitely don't want a lean mixture, especially if you are forcing it to put out lots of power. A "rich" mixture keeps the combustion temp. down. A lean mixture increases combustion temps.

 

:Thanks.

 

Good #'s... But couldn't you get same/similar or even better #'s with a bolt on turbo kit??

AND you would have saved a lot of weight...

 

Explain, in technical detail.

 

I do not have technical detail...


Turbonetics "advertises" 300hp at the crank on their bolt on turbo kit including reflash and FMIC... All for about $3,000.
Obviously there are a lot of factors involved to translate that info into "whp" and how practical it really is, as well as how it performs. I have not seen a Dyno comparison to see the power curves where the 2.5 turbo reaches it's HP and TQ #'s to make it "usable", vs. the 3.5... and the 3.5 v6 is definitely heavier than the little 4-banger Just food for thought.

There were a few people talking smack at a recent meet about guys in Sentra 2.5 turbo's running high 12's low 13's... I cannot Validate that, just what i heard.

BUT i did get SPANKED by a 95 FWD 200sx 4-cylinder turbo running a 12.56

 

Exactly how much heavier is the QR vs the VQ?

 

I would think the heavier front end would help in traction.

Plus I'm sure it has much better low end torque than a turbo 2.5

More reliability without F/I

Just my thoughts without any real data.

 

the vq is 50 pounds heavier than the qr. which isnt much, especially if you add the weight of a turbo on a qr. almost no difference. i did it this way because its unique, much more reliable, and just plain badass. i dont have turbo lag, and if i want.. later on i can still boost. yeah qr's that are turboed are running 13's, i have yet to see 12's. but i like the all motor effect anyway.

 

I figured if you took the time and the Money to do the Swap you would have done your Homework...

And you DID.

Those were just my initial thoughts... no hard facts to back it up.
Welcome to the VQ Club

 

thanks