Ypipe for a 5th gen
10-21-2001, 05:11 PM
#1
Ypipe for a 5th gen
MAN, I want to get a Ypipe, but I heard the Catmann and the Stillen is like $350-400.
Everyone talking about this new company called WarpSpeed that is gonna make them cheaper......... How much anyone know what the cheapest one is now if the WarpSpeed one is not out yet?
I want to buy in like 1-2weeks.
Dixit
Everyone talking about this new company called WarpSpeed that is gonna make them cheaper......... How much anyone know what the cheapest one is now if the WarpSpeed one is not out yet?
I want to buy in like 1-2weeks.
Dixit
10-21-2001, 07:25 PM
#4
Originally posted by Paul6speed
There is yet another. Budget Y. Eben from the DC Maxima club got one. It worked great for him. He ran a 15.3 with the Y, cone intake and ECU.
There is yet another. Budget Y. Eben from the DC Maxima club got one. It worked great for him. He ran a 15.3 with the Y, cone intake and ECU.
Well, Paul, Where can I get this Budget Y pipe? And is it comparable to the Catmann or Stillen?
And UMD, what is the difference in the bent mandrel or nonbent ones?
Dixit
10-21-2001, 08:03 PM
#5
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
And UMD, what is the difference in the bent mandrel or nonbent ones?
Dixit
And UMD, what is the difference in the bent mandrel or nonbent ones?
Dixit
10-21-2001, 08:17 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 539
Re: Ypipe for a 5th gen
Originally posted by BigDogJonx
MAN, I want to get a Ypipe, but I heard the Catmann and the Stillen is like $350-400.
Everyone talking about this new company called WarpSpeed that is gonna make them cheaper......... How much anyone know what the cheapest one is now if the WarpSpeed one is not out yet?
I want to buy in like 1-2weeks.
Dixit
MAN, I want to get a Ypipe, but I heard the Catmann and the Stillen is like $350-400.
Everyone talking about this new company called WarpSpeed that is gonna make them cheaper......... How much anyone know what the cheapest one is now if the WarpSpeed one is not out yet?
I want to buy in like 1-2weeks.
Dixit
Bought my Stillen y-pipe about two weeks ago, had it installed. Some ******* ran into my rear bumper, the car has been in the body shop for two weeks. It will be out tomorrow. First mod I did was Stillen hi=flo intake. THE Y-PIPE IS THE BEST MOD FOR THE $$$. Believe me when I say 2 u, Stillen hi-flo. JUST DO IT. Everyone that has done it on this board just loves it. Best mod ever. Next on my list was Greddy Evo, one of the guys here had it installed then had the car dynoed, only 6 Hp increase. The convincing story for me was when someone else dynoed car after stillen hi-flo intake installed, eight hp increase. When he installed the Stillen y-pipe, twelve hp increase.
Do it asap, enjoy. U paid a lot for ur car, buy the best u can afford for the car.
10-21-2001, 11:22 PM
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 956
Can someone with some experience on this install give some sort of level difficulty for the Y-pipe mod. Is it ok for the not so mechanically inclined to attempt? Does it involve expensive tools and any other hoo-ha?
Can a 2K/2K1 w intake + Y-pipe outrun a 2K2 no Y-pipe?
Hey BigDog what's up man? Let us know if you track this budget Y -pipe down and if your research says you should get it or not. I've been wanting to do this but 2 things holding me back, the price
and the bees in a can noise that Kev mentioned.
Can a 2K/2K1 w intake + Y-pipe outrun a 2K2 no Y-pipe?
Hey BigDog what's up man? Let us know if you track this budget Y -pipe down and if your research says you should get it or not. I've been wanting to do this but 2 things holding me back, the price
and the bees in a can noise that Kev mentioned.
10-22-2001, 06:24 AM
#9
You can do the y-pipe install yourself if you have a few tools. Deep sockets, extensions, and swivel joints are needed. A breaker bar will also help. It will take a bit of tim though. Getting the stock pipe off could be tough.
10-22-2001, 07:56 AM
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Posts: 956
I forgot, one more important thing that makes me hesitant about the Y pipe, the emissions test. Has anyone failed it because of the Y-pipe.
I read on here that all you have to do is make sure the car is properly warmed up. Just want to know if anyone has had problems passing the emissions test because of the Y-pipe
I read on here that all you have to do is make sure the car is properly warmed up. Just want to know if anyone has had problems passing the emissions test because of the Y-pipe
10-22-2001, 08:08 AM
#11
Originally posted by woosh
I forgot, one more important thing that makes me hesitant about the Y pipe, the emissions test. Has anyone failed it because of the Y-pipe.
I read on here that all you have to do is make sure the car is properly warmed up. Just want to know if anyone has had problems passing the emissions test because of the Y-pipe
I forgot, one more important thing that makes me hesitant about the Y pipe, the emissions test. Has anyone failed it because of the Y-pipe.
I read on here that all you have to do is make sure the car is properly warmed up. Just want to know if anyone has had problems passing the emissions test because of the Y-pipe
BTW, add anti-seize to the list. Use it on the nuts and bolts when you install the new y-pipe.
10-22-2001, 09:01 AM
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2000
Posts: 939
Originally posted by UMD_MaxSE
You can do the y-pipe install yourself if you have a few tools. Deep sockets, extensions, and swivel joints are needed. A breaker bar will also help. It will take a bit of tim though. Getting the stock pipe off could be tough.
You can do the y-pipe install yourself if you have a few tools. Deep sockets, extensions, and swivel joints are needed. A breaker bar will also help. It will take a bit of tim though. Getting the stock pipe off could be tough.
You will need the following:
Rachet,
10 mm socket,
12 mm socket,
13 mm socket,
14 mm socket,
universal joint (to get at 2 of the 13 mm nuts holding the rear Y- section to the exhaust manifold),
8 or 10 inch extension,
7/8" open ended wrench (to remove O2 sensors)
And, of course, a good jack and 2 jackstands. (Dont work under the car with jackstands!)
Antiseize on the O2 sensor threads is also a good idea, just dont get any on the sensor itself.
You can usually re-use the compression ring gaskets on the downpipes and the steel gasket on the catalytic converter without a problem.
10-22-2001, 12:32 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 637
Originally posted by Y2KevSE
13mm socket? My nuts were all 14mm.
7/8" ~ 22mm
Hehehehe, I said "my nuts"
13mm socket? My nuts were all 14mm.
7/8" ~ 22mm
Hehehehe, I said "my nuts"
I had to use a 2' wrench for mine. 
10-22-2001, 01:27 PM
#19
Originally posted by madmax2k
Getting the stock pipe off does take a bit more time than putting the new one on. But, the entire job shouldnt take more than 1.5 hours if you just cruise along.
You will need the following:
Rachet,
10 mm socket,
12 mm socket,
13 mm socket,
14 mm socket,
universal joint (to get at 2 of the 13 mm nuts holding the rear Y- section to the exhaust manifold),
8 or 10 inch extension,
7/8" open ended wrench (to remove O2 sensors)
And, of course, a good jack and 2 jackstands. (Dont work under the car with jackstands!)
Antiseize on the O2 sensor threads is also a good idea, just dont get any on the sensor itself.
You can usually re-use the compression ring gaskets on the downpipes and the steel gasket on the catalytic converter without a problem.
Getting the stock pipe off does take a bit more time than putting the new one on. But, the entire job shouldnt take more than 1.5 hours if you just cruise along.
You will need the following:
Rachet,
10 mm socket,
12 mm socket,
13 mm socket,
14 mm socket,
universal joint (to get at 2 of the 13 mm nuts holding the rear Y- section to the exhaust manifold),
8 or 10 inch extension,
7/8" open ended wrench (to remove O2 sensors)
And, of course, a good jack and 2 jackstands. (Dont work under the car with jackstands!)
Antiseize on the O2 sensor threads is also a good idea, just dont get any on the sensor itself.
You can usually re-use the compression ring gaskets on the downpipes and the steel gasket on the catalytic converter without a problem.
Liquid Wrench to soak the bolts before trying to remove them... also a good idea !
10-22-2001, 11:20 PM
#20
Donating Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 734
any luck?
Hey BigDog.... did you ever find where to get a good y pipe for a good price? Im in the same boat you are right now, I gotta get one but I really dont wanna pay 400 big ones!!!
Im sure it would be worth it but Im always down for savin a few dollars ...
Im sure it would be worth it but Im always down for savin a few dollars ...
10-22-2001, 11:51 PM
#21
Re: any luck?
Originally posted by ChillWill2000
Hey BigDog.... did you ever find where to get a good y pipe for a good price? Im in the same boat you are right now, I gotta get one but I really dont wanna pay 400 big ones!!! Im sure it would be worth it but Im always down for savin a few dollars ...
Hey BigDog.... did you ever find where to get a good y pipe for a good price? Im in the same boat you are right now, I gotta get one but I really dont wanna pay 400 big ones!!!
Im sure it would be worth it but Im always down for savin a few dollars ...
Still looking.
10-23-2001, 04:02 AM
#22
ECU for the 5th gen?
Originally posted by Paul6speed
There is yet another. Budget Y. Eben from the DC Maxima club got one. It worked great for him. He ran a 15.3 with the Y, cone intake and ECU.
There is yet another. Budget Y. Eben from the DC Maxima club got one. It worked great for him. He ran a 15.3 with the Y, cone intake and ECU.
kafene.
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