whats cost to fix cv boot
#1
whats cost to fix cv boot
My drivers side outside cv boot is cracked,so i thought i would get both left and right outside boots done.I have 144k miles so i know the other one is not far behind.I got a price of 75.00 a side plus 45 for alignment for a total of 195.00.Is that agood price?Do you think i should do the inside one's at the sametime?
#2
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Location: Middleboro/Carver, Ma
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Nope, outers always go WAYYY before inners.
Ummm, are you serious about price? That is a BERY good price, the cost of boot kits plus the fact that it is SUCH a greasy job means $75 is fantastic. Obviously the pricing is exceptional though anyways, $45 for an alignment is a great indicator.
Ummm, are you serious about price? That is a BERY good price, the cost of boot kits plus the fact that it is SUCH a greasy job means $75 is fantastic. Obviously the pricing is exceptional though anyways, $45 for an alignment is a great indicator.
#4
Get full replacement axles. Don't bother with boot kits, you'll only be doing the job again.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
#7
Get full replacement axles. Don't bother with boot kits, you'll only be doing the job again.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
#8
Get full replacement axles. Don't bother with boot kits, you'll only be doing the job again.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
#10
No.
Raxles price for driver's side is somewhere in the $140's, passenger in the $170's.
That includes shipping, and return shipping for the cores, for both those heavy a$$ axles.
It's worth it.
Raxles price for driver's side is somewhere in the $140's, passenger in the $170's.
That includes shipping, and return shipping for the cores, for both those heavy a$$ axles.
It's worth it.
#11
I have never found an alignment for less than $65 and I've looked around quite a bit.
I am currently (car is on jacks) replacing both front axles as both outer boots went at the same time (2000 max, 110k miles). I am using advance auto parts new (non-reman) axles for about $172 total (no core fee). Raxles I got a quote from but I think they wanted about $330 shipped for two new axles.
Given that a new axle from advance auto parts is $85, I don't think it's worth having anybody (yourself or a mechanic) replace the boots. I have done the job once and it's hellaciously messy and takes a while. Much better to just get a whole axle.
I got quotes from two local places and one wanted about $490 incl labor (no alignment) for new axles (or maybe reman, they didn't specify) and another wanted 1.5 hours labor per side if I supplied my own parts. I know that a good mechanic could do 1.5 hours or less for both if they're doing replacements, so I thought that was way too high--hence doing it myself.
I've heard also that you should not need an alignment or at the worst if you mark on the strut (not sure what that means, though), then you won't need one after axle replacement.
I am currently (car is on jacks) replacing both front axles as both outer boots went at the same time (2000 max, 110k miles). I am using advance auto parts new (non-reman) axles for about $172 total (no core fee). Raxles I got a quote from but I think they wanted about $330 shipped for two new axles.
Given that a new axle from advance auto parts is $85, I don't think it's worth having anybody (yourself or a mechanic) replace the boots. I have done the job once and it's hellaciously messy and takes a while. Much better to just get a whole axle.
I got quotes from two local places and one wanted about $490 incl labor (no alignment) for new axles (or maybe reman, they didn't specify) and another wanted 1.5 hours labor per side if I supplied my own parts. I know that a good mechanic could do 1.5 hours or less for both if they're doing replacements, so I thought that was way too high--hence doing it myself.
I've heard also that you should not need an alignment or at the worst if you mark on the strut (not sure what that means, though), then you won't need one after axle replacement.
#12
Or, if you don't touch the strut at all, and disconnect only the balljoint and sway bar link, you'll be able to drop the control arm as low as you want and get the axle out with ease. Bolt everything back up and no alignment is necessary at all. I've done it and seen it done multiple times, and confirmed that everything was still within spec after the axle job.
#13
Or, if you don't touch the strut at all, and disconnect only the balljoint and sway bar link, you'll be able to drop the control arm as low as you want and get the axle out with ease. Bolt everything back up and no alignment is necessary at all. I've done it and seen it done multiple times, and confirmed that everything was still within spec after the axle job.
#14
No special tools. You need a box wrench for the ball joint castle nut, I think it's in the 22-24mm range. You might also need a prybar to get the nut off the sway bar link, because it spins when you try to remove it.
Takes the same amount of time I'd say, and yes, if the 2 strut bolts going through the hub aren't touched, no alignment necessary.
Takes the same amount of time I'd say, and yes, if the 2 strut bolts going through the hub aren't touched, no alignment necessary.
#15
Thanks for the idea--are there pictuers anywhere on the net to explain it? The process I used in the past and had intended to use tonight was the one on motorvate.ca, which calls for undoing the two large bolts that connect to the strut.
#16
Get full replacement axles. Don't bother with boot kits, you'll only be doing the job again.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
I also talked to one of my friends who is a mechanic at a Nissan dealer and he told me to just replace the inner CV boot and do nothing else. What do you all think?
Should I replace everything both inner and outer CV boots as well as the axles? Sorry for the frustration, but I am new to this problem.
#17
Just spoke with a rep. at Raxles and while the entire right axle assembly is only $150, he does not have any for a 6-speed. I am going to replace the entire axle, because it is much more labor intensive to replace the right inner CV boot only. So does anyone know where I should order the right axle from other than Raxles?
#18
I have an 02 Maxima with 69K and the right side inner CV boot has to be replaced. I have checked around and no one, but Nissan has the part and they quoted me $431.00 parts and labor. That seems high.
I also talked to one of my friends who is a mechanic at a Nissan dealer and he told me to just replace the inner CV boot and do nothing else. What do you all think?
Should I replace everything both inner and outer CV boots as well as the axles? Sorry for the frustration, but I am new to this problem.
I also talked to one of my friends who is a mechanic at a Nissan dealer and he told me to just replace the inner CV boot and do nothing else. What do you all think?
Should I replace everything both inner and outer CV boots as well as the axles? Sorry for the frustration, but I am new to this problem.
If your boot is already ripped open, it's probably a good idea to get a new axle as replacing a boot may already be too late due to grease that's leaked out. If your INNER has gone, then yes get the right done, too, as it's likely to go at some stage, but if you get a new axle it'll come with two fresh boots anyway.
I avoid dealerships at all costs and since this part is not critical (you can drive with it as is for a while), then you can wait a few days for the part to come in.
Can your friend do the labor for you at his house. Paying $400+ for one side is just an absolute travesty and it is not necessary.
#19
Just spoke with a rep. at Raxles and while the entire right axle assembly is only $150, he does not have any for a 6-speed. I am going to replace the entire axle, because it is much more labor intensive to replace the right inner CV boot only. So does anyone know where I should order the right axle from other than Raxles?
#20
Just spoke with a rep. at Raxles and while the entire right axle assembly is only $150, he does not have any for a 6-speed. I am going to replace the entire axle, because it is much more labor intensive to replace the right inner CV boot only. So does anyone know where I should order the right axle from other than Raxles?
It is not hard labor and I have to again stress to find a friend to do it if you don't want to. I bet that friend mechanic of yours would be quite pleased to get $60-70 for the job since that's more than he would make at the dealership (and much cheaper than you'd pay the dealership)
#21
-Remove the cotter pin for the ball joint nut, and the nut for the sway bar link.
-Remove axle nut.
-Use prybar to lower LCA
-Once LCA lowers, pull the hub (which is also connected to the strut assembly) out of the wheel well towards you. The entire assembly will pivot on the strut mount at the top. Don't pull too hard to risk damaging strut mount or strut bearing.
-Axle will come out of hub.
-Lower the axle under the hub and remove per standard procedure.
-Reverse directions for reinstallation.
#23
Thanks for all of the help fellas it is much appreciated. As soon as I finished writing the last post, I did Google "2002 maxima axle" and found a bunch, but I wanted to know if there was a preference for quality, i.e. Raxles, or vendors to stay away from.
I did find a used axle down the street for $150, but I feel like if the Raxles one is $150 brand new, why should I pay $150 for a used one? I would like to be able to wait on one from Raxles, but I have to get his down ASAP, because without it my car will not pass inspection in Maryland and I cannot register my car.
Other than Raxles does it really matter who I would use to purchase the right axle?
I did find a used axle down the street for $150, but I feel like if the Raxles one is $150 brand new, why should I pay $150 for a used one? I would like to be able to wait on one from Raxles, but I have to get his down ASAP, because without it my car will not pass inspection in Maryland and I cannot register my car.
Other than Raxles does it really matter who I would use to purchase the right axle?
#24
because without it my car will not pass inspection in Maryland
#25
Thanks again for the help. I just ordered a brand new right EMPI axle for $111.54 + 22.26 (2nd day Air) = $133.80 from DriveWire. The part comes with a one year warranty. I figured it was best to go with a new axle rather than a re-manned or used. Hopefully EMPI puts out a quality axle.
#28
Get full replacement axles. Don't bother with boot kits, you'll only be doing the job again.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
And while you're at it, make sure you get them from Raxles.
www.raxles.com
Additionally, if you're aligned before you get the axles replaced, and you know what you're doing, you won't need an alignment afterwards.
I think I got quoted about 100/side for replacement axles from a shop. I'll bet you that's what they will do anyway.
Paid more for Raxles and did the job mself.
#29
Marty @ Raxles said that he cannot give me a definitive date on when he will have a right side axle to ship me, so I paniced and ordered an EMPI axle from Drivewire. My mistake.
I am thinking of returning the EMPI axle because I have heard not so good reviews on the quality of the product. Can anyone comment on the quality and durability of the EMPI axle? If I returned the EMPI axle I would just wait it out until Raxles has one for me, and then I will likely replace the axle by myself with some help from my buddy.
I am thinking of returning the EMPI axle because I have heard not so good reviews on the quality of the product. Can anyone comment on the quality and durability of the EMPI axle? If I returned the EMPI axle I would just wait it out until Raxles has one for me, and then I will likely replace the axle by myself with some help from my buddy.
#30
Marty @ Raxles said that he cannot give me a definitive date on when he will have a right side axle to ship me, so I paniced and ordered an EMPI axle from Drivewire. My mistake.
I am thinking of returning the EMPI axle because I have heard not so good reviews on the quality of the product. Can anyone comment on the quality and durability of the EMPI axle? If I returned the EMPI axle I would just wait it out until Raxles has one for me, and then I will likely replace the axle by myself with some help from my buddy.
I am thinking of returning the EMPI axle because I have heard not so good reviews on the quality of the product. Can anyone comment on the quality and durability of the EMPI axle? If I returned the EMPI axle I would just wait it out until Raxles has one for me, and then I will likely replace the axle by myself with some help from my buddy.
#31
Thanks man, for the boost of confidence. The worst that could happen is that they are crappy and I have to do it over again. I'll chalk this up to a learning experience and will be sure to let everyone know the results.
#32
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its quite an easy job also i dont get the point of replacing an entire axle just cuz your boot broke. I do understand that if you were driving around with a broken boot for like a year plus and all the grease came out then yeah maybe replace the axle. Its pretty easy to replace the boot also when your doing that you can take a look at the ball bearings in the joint for wear. oem > napa/autozone or any other cheap rebuilts
#33
its quite an easy job also i dont get the point of replacing an entire axle just cuz your boot broke. I do understand that if you were driving around with a broken boot for like a year plus and all the grease came out then yeah maybe replace the axle. Its pretty easy to replace the boot also when your doing that you can take a look at the ball bearings in the joint for wear. oem > napa/autozone or any other cheap rebuilts
#35
A quality rebuilt axle is often at least as good as a new one. The factory axles on my Accord made it to 90,000 miles (right) and 105,000 miles (left) and the rebuilt axles I had put in were still working perfectly when I sold the car with 280,285 miles on it.
It isn't that hard or time consuming to r/r an axle, maybe 30 minutes a side for a good mechanic. The Nissan stealership price is a rip-off.
It isn't that hard or time consuming to r/r an axle, maybe 30 minutes a side for a good mechanic. The Nissan stealership price is a rip-off.
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