Did you get it to where there's play at the top of the pedal? It just doesn't make sence that it would slip if everything is right.

I really don't think it's a matter of that clutch not being good. The clutch doesnt know what kind of car it's in. If it's set up properly it should work.

I would get someone who knows how to adjust it better before giving up. You have to have the right balance between adjusting the pedal stop (switch up top) and the threaded rod behind the pedal.

I just hope you didn't glaze the friction surfaces too much when it was slipping.

 

Absolutely right, Derrick

 

im not sure whats really going on right now. But i adjusted some more and instead of slipping completly it just slips a tad bit then it grabs. Like it stays at 5.5k for a second then the car starts moving. I cant even chirp second cause of this. 1st just slips, my car dont even spin tire. Its like make shift traction control. lol. I think I glazed the friction surface already.

 

if your clutch has problems, why are you trying to chirp second? Wouldn't that be counter intuitive? I can understand assessing how the clutch is engaging but driving as hard as you speak of sounds like a bad idea to me...

 

i have no problem with the clutch engaging or with normal driving. I have issues with the clutch when im driving the car hard.

 

Any further comments to add regarding your issue?

 

what's going on with your new setup now?

 

Inquiring minds want to know

 

Still happening, awaiting Q to get a new clutch just in case when I bring the tranny down one day that its glazed or cooked.

Others that have it, so far so good....

 

so do you think that he got on it too soon before the break in period? i would really like to get this setup, but i'm concerned about these problems

 

Sounds to me like it wasn't adjusted properly in the first place, then when he started getting on it (it sounds like he got on it OVER AND OVER AND OVER), he glazed it over.

 

not sure, but me and Q swapped cars when I installed it, and it grabbed fine when I held 2nd gear to 5000rpm shifts, as I said before, pedal pressure was real light. I did everything I would do in a normal clutch job.
I wish Clarke would chime in on how his setup is doing as well.

The clutch is self adjusting,and not much in difference on where it grabbed during pedal travel.

 

102K mi on my stock gen 5.5, and the slipping is really getting noticeable. I wouldn't even think about another run in autocross or on the dragstrip, without getting the clutch replaced. I had been looking into the clutchmasters FX300 (segmented kevlar disk), but after reading through some past threads, it sounds like the 06+ 350Z clutch is probably the way to go. A clutch replacement is too major for me to do, so I'll probably take it to the local tranny shop.

One question I wanted to throw out there though. Is it really worth getting the clutch replaced on a car that uses a qt. of oil every 800 miles?

 

This might be a little off topic but is it true you can tell how much life you have left on your clutch by how high it engages?

 

Hardly a definitive test. IIRC you can get somewhat of a look at the clutch disk by removing the starter and trying to get a light in there.

 

Not on these cars or most modern cars with self adjusting clutches. The best thing to do is wait till it starts slipping. You should have plenty of time from when you notice slipping till it's not driveable. If you're planning to remove the tranny for some other reason then do a clutch any way.

 

Does anyone have an exedy clutch on their gen 5.5, or have actual pics of the gen 5.5 exedy clutches? According to the pics I've seen (which may not be the actual clutch), the oe disc has 4 springs, and the stage 1 has 6 springs