Hey guys, I just got my oem clutch replaced with an exedy stage 1 last Friday, my problem is this...the clutch engagement is down near the floorboard, meaning I have to push the clutch all the way down to put the car into gear, it wasn't like this when I had my oem in, so my friend tells me the mechanic didn't bleed the clutch properly or at all. Can anyone else tell me if this is normal or what?

Thanks in advance for all replies/ views.

 

i can tell you that he most definatly did bleed teh clutch buddy.

 

Yeah, you don't bleed a clutch. You can bleed the slave cilinder but you shouldn't have to after a clutch job.

The Exedy needs more pressure. There is an adjustment that can be made under the clutch pedal to lift it. If you do a search you'll find it.

 

You are correct, it shouldn't need it. However, when I had my transmission / clutch / flywheel replaced I had the same thing happen, and it turned out to bad bad master / slave clutch cylinders (I didn't do the install)

To OP:

Is the pedal stiff, or does it sorta drop to the floor?

Does it seem to change pressure (City Driving it is consistent but if you drive on a highway, or somewhere you wouldn't have to use your clutch pedal at all does it seem to get more spongy?

Has the pedal gotten stuck to the ground at all?

If the pedal feels stiff follow Derricks Advice, but I wouldn't think you would have to adjust the clutch pedal at all, though the stock setup is very forgiving.

 

That could be it too. I've heard of the master failing right after a clutch job, especially if going to a stronger clutch. It's not that it gets damaged during the install. If it's close to failing, the extra force of a fresh clutch will push it over the edge.


If it's consistent and you're not loosing fluid I'd check the adjustment. This is what happened to me:

When I went from stock to a stage 3 (which requires more force) I had to adjust the pedal up to be able to fully disengage the clutch. I couldn't even get it into gear and that was with the pedal all the way to the floor. The adjustment fixed it.

When I took out the stage 3 for the 350Z clutch (which requires less force) I was able to push it in so far it would grind so I had to adjust it back.

If changing to a harder or softer clutch an adjustment is usually necessary. It's not too hard and You'll know right away if it worked.

 

I wanted to reply to the fidanza flywheel install. I installed that same flywheel in my 02 max, and I get a nasty grinding during start-up. Is this normal, or did I miss something in the install?? Other than start-up the performance gain is well noticed.
PLEASE HELP!!!

 

Fidanza let a few bad flywheels out and it sounds like you got one. The same thing happened to me. The ring gear was too small and the starter teeth were rolling over it on start up. It makes a loud grinding noise and tears up the teeth. Eventually there will be no more teeth left. When I pulled mine apart after a week or two there were metal shavings all over the inside of the bell housing.

If you pull the starter out and look at the teeth on the flywheel you will probably see them chewed up.

Contact Fidanza and they should replace it for you.

Where and when did you get this flywheel?

 

bleed the clutch!!! asap 5.99 kit from autozone

 

so you bump a thread to post something that contradicts something two veterans stated

 

the clutch is easy to bleed yourself. There is a bleeder valve on the slave cylinder and one in the top corner of the engine compartment close to drivers seat. Have a friend pump pedal and hold it down. Open and close bleeder bolt making sure fluid is clear with no bubbles. Keep fluid level in clutch above thge lower mark. Dot 3 brake fluid is used.