Brake Problem
03-22-2008, 11:12 AM
#1
Brake Problem
Im in the process of changing my brakes and rotors after completing the job almost fully I was trying to decompress the piston and it wont budge on one side any ideas of what I can do? I was using a big set of pliers any help would be appreciated.
03-22-2008, 12:16 PM
#3
Are you doing front or rear? If it's the front maby try grabbing the piston with some big chanell locks and twisting it a bit to free it up. If it's that stuck it probly should be rebuilt or replaced. If it's the rear they are ratcheting and you need to twist them in.
The reservoir is vented. The cap will have no effect on pressing in the caliper piston what so ever
Last edited by 00SEMAX19; 03-22-2008 at 12:19 PM.
03-22-2008, 01:02 PM
#4
Instead...use a C-clamp with one or two blocks of wood. You definitely need one block of wood over the piston and maybe a second on the back depending on how big your C-clamp is. This will apply even pressure to the piston, thus not causing any damage to the piston or the seal.
And even though your brake fluid reservior may be vented (which I doubt) loosen it anyhow, it will help.
This guide is for the front calipers. The rear you need to twist them in a clockwise motion to compress them. Make sure you line them up properly after doing this (reference the attached picture below).
Last edited by foodmanry; 03-24-2010 at 06:33 PM.
03-22-2008, 03:32 PM
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Leicester, Ma
Posts: 1,124
like 00semax said, is it the fr or rear. front you can compress in with a brake piston tool that you can pick up at any auto store. the rears actually screw back in. not sure which way. also dont that the cap off unless you want brake fluid all over the place. the cover being on the resevoir has no pressure keeping the piston from going in. If nothing works what i do is take the old br pad ( if this is the front) and take a piece of wood and and hammer it once or twice to break the bond. Brakes go thru so much crap that they can get temporarily stuck. if the rear spray with wd40 and wait. becarefull of the rubber seal when screwing back in. you shouldnt have to undo the bleeder or cap or anything. worst case senario is a frozen caliper which will need to be taken apart and rebuilt. if thats the case i would do both sides.
Last edited by jeff5347; 03-22-2008 at 03:37 PM.
03-22-2008, 11:57 PM
#8
Oh hell no...don't be doing that! You can f-up your caliper and cause damage to the piston.
Instead...use a C-clamp with one or two blocks of wood. You definitely need one block of wood over the piston and maybe a second on the back depending on how big your C-clamp is. This will apply even pressure to the piston, thus not causing any damage to the piston or the seal.
And even though your brake fluid reservior may be vented (which I doubt) loosen it anyhow, it will help.
This guide is for the front calipers. The rear you need to twist them in a clockwise motion to compress them. Make sure you line them up properly after doing this (reference the attached picture below).
Instead...use a C-clamp with one or two blocks of wood. You definitely need one block of wood over the piston and maybe a second on the back depending on how big your C-clamp is. This will apply even pressure to the piston, thus not causing any damage to the piston or the seal.
And even though your brake fluid reservior may be vented (which I doubt) loosen it anyhow, it will help.
This guide is for the front calipers. The rear you need to twist them in a clockwise motion to compress them. Make sure you line them up properly after doing this (reference the attached picture below).
This was just one of the things I've had to deal with while trying to unstick frozen calipers. I've even had to pull a caliper off the car, stick it in a vise, remove the bleeder, use a air nossle where the bleeder goes with a 150psi of preasure and do what I said above to get them to move before.
I know this is extreme but I've had to deal with some messed up cars.
And yes, I do have all the correct tools for brakes but extreme times = extreme messures.
In reallity if there is any problem pushing it in it should be replaced or rebuilt
Also removeing the master cylinder cap wont change a thing, I mean nothing. The only reason you should remove the cap is so you can stick a rag on top to try and soak up any overflow spillage (that will happen with the cap on also) when you push the caliper pistons back in.
03-25-2008, 09:24 AM
#10
Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 34
If you grab it at the end it's fine. I agree don't grab anywhere the piston touches the seal.
This was just one of the things I've had to deal with while trying to unstick frozen calipers. I've even had to pull a caliper off the car, stick it in a vise, remove the bleeder, use a air nossle where the bleeder goes with a 150psi of preasure and do what I said above to get them to move before.
I know this is extreme but I've had to deal with some messed up cars.
And yes, I do have all the correct tools for brakes but extreme times = extreme messures.
In reallity if there is any problem pushing it in it should be replaced or rebuilt
Also removeing the master cylinder cap wont change a thing, I mean nothing. The only reason you should remove the cap is so you can stick a rag on top to try and soak up any overflow spillage (that will happen with the cap on also) when you push the caliper pistons back in.
This was just one of the things I've had to deal with while trying to unstick frozen calipers. I've even had to pull a caliper off the car, stick it in a vise, remove the bleeder, use a air nossle where the bleeder goes with a 150psi of preasure and do what I said above to get them to move before.
I know this is extreme but I've had to deal with some messed up cars.
And yes, I do have all the correct tools for brakes but extreme times = extreme messures.
In reallity if there is any problem pushing it in it should be replaced or rebuilt
Also removeing the master cylinder cap wont change a thing, I mean nothing. The only reason you should remove the cap is so you can stick a rag on top to try and soak up any overflow spillage (that will happen with the cap on also) when you push the caliper pistons back in.
03-25-2008, 11:40 AM
#11
Thats what you don't want to do.patrolium products make all the rubber seals and dust boots swell up. All you want to use is assembly fluid.
All though it would be fine if you are going to replace all that stuff.
03-25-2008, 07:43 PM
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 601
I may be on the excessive side but in theory it does and has happened.
SO get a reman caliper with the new set of pads.
01-03-2020, 05:16 PM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,292
If you grab it at the end it's fine. I agree don't grab anywhere the piston touches the seal.
This was just one of the things I've had to deal with while trying to unstick frozen calipers. I've even had to pull a caliper off the car, stick it in a vise, remove the bleeder, use a air nossle where the bleeder goes with a 150psi of preasure and do what I said above to get them to move before.
I know this is extreme but I've had to deal with some messed up cars.
And yes, I do have all the correct tools for brakes but extreme times = extreme messures.
In reallity if there is any problem pushing it in it should be replaced or rebuilt
Also removeing the master cylinder cap wont change a thing, I mean nothing. The only reason you should remove the cap is so you can stick a rag on top to try and soak up any overflow spillage (that will happen with the cap on also) when you push the caliper pistons back in.
This was just one of the things I've had to deal with while trying to unstick frozen calipers. I've even had to pull a caliper off the car, stick it in a vise, remove the bleeder, use a air nossle where the bleeder goes with a 150psi of preasure and do what I said above to get them to move before.
I know this is extreme but I've had to deal with some messed up cars.
And yes, I do have all the correct tools for brakes but extreme times = extreme messures.
In reallity if there is any problem pushing it in it should be replaced or rebuilt
Also removeing the master cylinder cap wont change a thing, I mean nothing. The only reason you should remove the cap is so you can stick a rag on top to try and soak up any overflow spillage (that will happen with the cap on also) when you push the caliper pistons back in.
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