i have already change one time and after 12,000 miles it fails again. last time i went to dealer to change it cost me 475 bucks installed. i am looking at two brand that comes with bearing. which brand is good??

SKF Wheel Hub Assembly


OE Service Wheel Hub Assembly


Has anybody got parts of online? I am tired of spending money on wheel bearing. Help please

 

bearing shouldn't fail this soon. It will fail though if improperly installed and i doubt that or if you hit something on that wheel and bent the spindle just a bit it will put uneven pressure on bearing taking it out. That;s why accident cars get spindels with bearings and hubs.

 

Not sure which of those is better, but I had drivers front bearing replaced by a local mechanic(Non oem part)- lasted 9 months. Then Nissan replaced it- has lasted about 9 months so far. Seems fine now.
Also had the lower control arm on the same corner replaced twice. Same as above.

 

one of my lug nut was missing after couple of miles i got the bearing job done. may be thas why it prolly got messed up.

 

There only $49 at advance auto parts, there pretty easy to change, there is a snap ring in there, remove that, press out the bearing, press in new one, replace snap ring and its fixed, if you knuckle is messed up you could consider replacing it, there like $203 from http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1956_1957.html

 

you might have a bad hub and that might be causing the new bearings to fail, it's what happened to both my front wheel bearings after replacing just the bearing. Nissan told me that if I have to replace the bearing than chances are the broken bearing will almost always gouge the hub just enough to need a new one, don't really know how true that is or if that is just their way of saying we want more of your money

 

Pinnacle Nissan has both the bearing assembly alone, and the hub assembly.

 

anyone recommend timken hub bearings?

 

Are you the original owner of this maxima? Has it ever been wrecked? Bearing, hubs, lower control arm, etc don't fail in most cars even with 100,000+ mileage. I think you got a vehicle that's been wrecked or possibly totaled and rebuilt and sold!

 

Go get your aligment checked! How's your tires wearing? You might wanna have your frame checked for alignment when it all comes down to it... cause something is bent!

 

FWIW: The metal components typically don't fail unless wrecked / curbed etc, but the bushings do fail quite often.

 

I am having the same problems with my Maxima now as well.

The passenger side hub is bad, wobbling pretty bad.

This is a DIY project though right? I mean, I have pulled engines before, but I don't really mess with suspension that much. Just pull the old one out and put the new one in, without beating it, right?

 

It must be pressed in, if you're referring to the bearing.

 

Yes you are correct as long as you are talking about the rear hub assembly. Front has to be pressed.

 

the bearing won't damage the hub.
However if you hit something in a corner, and perhaps bend or warp the spindle due to extremly tight tolerances you want everything to press in smoothly. If something is warped or say not 100% if you put a bearing in a damaged spindle it will fail prematurely. and same if you have a bent or damaged hub, bearing will fail prematurely.
So since you already had a failure they replaced it since the bearing failed dur to incorrect tolerances. Replacing just bearing means he will just have a come back 8 months later.

 

so what did you end up doing here??? It's time for me to replace my wheel bearing for the 2nd time now... and I'm wondering how sketchy Nissan's setup is, if many people seem to be having this problem.

I think something to look into would be to get the old bearing out and take a micrometer to the inside of the hub assembly to check for out-of-roundness. Or maybe I'm getting a junk brand of bearings....

 

anyone else had problems with wheel bearings like this??

 

The problem is the idiot who's pressing in your bearing has no clue what their doing! I just had a Nissan dealer screw up my bearings that I had them press on. I had the knuckles off the car and all he had to do was Remove and replace the bearing with the new bearing I provided him with and he pressed in the hub without supporting the bearing inner race and destroyed my $76.00 Nissan Oem bearings. I made them give me new ones and went to the my first intending machine shop that following Tuesday after having to take off work to handle up on my business. The dealership are getting their techs from a heap of trash not from some formal technical institution.....To save money i did mic out the 6th gen front bearing and they are identical to the 5 & 5.5 gen's except where they're made. The $40 6th gen are made in the USA while the $96 5 & 5.5 are made in Japan. But they are identical in every dimension... Oh yeah NAPA carrys the same identical made in JAPAN bearing as the dealer for $46 same p/n.

 

Hey! that idiot was my buddy and I. But we pressed it in correctly I'm sure. When the bearing first went bad (about Nov. '07), I replaced it when I put my coilovers on. But I took it to get aligned and he said it still had a bad bearing. So it might have been pressed in wrong the first time.
Right after that I got another one and I'm sure we pressed it in correctly b/c it was good. The bearing race was supported while being pressed in and there was no play with the wheel/tire On. It was just within the past week that I found it was bad again. i.e. I jacked the car up and there is play in the wheel while wiggling it w/ hands in the 6 & 12 o'clock position. And it makes noise above 35/40 mph.

So I'm wondering what is causing it to go bad again. Is the hub assembly possibly out-of-round for some reason or am I just buying a ****ty brand of bearing. Do you recommend getting the Made in Japan bearing or the Made in America bearing???

 

Sounds like you may need to inspect your Knuckle closely for cracks or check the hub on a pair of v blocks for runout. Your axle hub could be out of round.
A. When you pressed the bearing into the knuckle, where did you place the force on the inner or outer race?
B.When you pressed the hub in, did you place the hub stud side down and press the inner race down onto the hub shaft?
C.Or did you support the knuckle and press the hub into the bearing?

 

It's been some time.. but If i recall.. the outside of the bearing race was supported b/c thats where the pressure/resistance would be.

I had the knuckle w/ the studs facing down and pressed the bearing in from the back side until it met w/ that snap ring.

 

To me it sounds like you did a 1 step bearing install instead of a 2 step.

 

please elaborate on this...
If I did something wrong I need to know b/c I've gotta get this bad one replaced ASAP. And I'm not paying anyone to do it... that's not an option.

 

1. Press the hub out of the knuckle and bearing, this destroys the bearing
2. Remove the inner race off the hub....
3. Remove outer snap ring and press out remaining bearing ( press on outer race)
4. Clean and inspect knuckle and hub for damage, defects, cracks...
5. If everything looks good and serviceable heat knuckle in an oven @ about 400 degrees F and freeze hub in dry ice for at least 30 min.
6. With inner snap ring still installed, press bearing to butt up to inner snap ring ( press should be pushing on outer bearing race, not inner!!!)
7. With bearing installed now install outer snap ring
8. With hub studs facing down, press bearing and knuckle down on hub( press should now be pushing on inner race)
9. check bearing for axial and radial play!
10. while installing bearing use either grease, oil, or antiseize...on bearing inner bore and outercase!

 

I'm not sure where you're getting your parts (front axle bearings) but NAPA carries the same identical p/n bearing that the Nissan dealers supplies for $46-50!! Nissan wants $92 retail ($76 wholesale)...

 

Wow! That's one hell of a process...and I've haven't heard of doing all that. That's very valuable information, no one has ever mentioned anything like this. I don't mean to offend or doubt you At All.. but where did you get this information; im talking about the oven and dry ice, etc.??
And I didn't press the bearing/knuckle assembly onto the hub, I thought that It would be in place after tightening the axle nut.

 

The oven and dry ice trick is used by machinist on items with an interference fit to ease installation! I'm an former A+P aircraft technician and I used this process to ease the installation of many bearings, fittings, shafts, etc in the many years I worked on helicopters.
Now the other instructions are as per the FSM. To me it sounds like you pressed the bearings and hub into the knuckle in one step. well that outer snapring can't be installed if the hub and beaing are together as one and pressed into the knuckle against the inner snapring , that maybe you reason for bearing failure or bearing walk. The bearing is retained in the knuckle via 1 inner snapring and 1 outer snapring. The driveshaft axle nut can't really support the forces exerted outward let's say on the passenger wheel turning right in a high g turn could displace that bearing.Good luck!

 

That A$$ hole tech asked why I didn't order this same hub bearing assembly?...Easy answer folks! How are you gonna install that outer snapring? This is a fix Nissan came up with cause most of their techs have no clue in proper bearing pressing procedures and this method still destroys the bearing unless the hub in heated first, to expand it's inside dimension to ease the amount of force exerted on the bearing's race!!!!

 

I pressed the bearing into the knuckle as it should be; the outer race was supported during this. The second step is the one I believe I skipped b/c I didn't know that the knuckle/bearing assembly needs to be then pressed onto the Hub. both snaprings were on though. The bearing lasted for nearly 1 year... lol
So I'll be doing this Friday again w/ hopefully no setbacks.

Thanks for the advice!

you mean the knuckle is heated, right? the hub should be frozen...

 

Yes, freezing the hub in dry ice shrinks it dimensional and heating the Knuckle expands it...combined you can almost push it in by hand!
As for the second post, it seemed as though the hub and bearing were purchased as an assembly with the way you explained it and the pictures. If so, the outer snapring can't be installed, only the inner!
When you stated you supported the outer bearing race when installing it into the knuckle...Did you mean you pressed on the outer bearing race, when installing it into the knuckle. See when the bearing is being pressed into the knuckle all the friction will be on the outer race therefore you push on that same outer race so you don't displace the races. When you install the hub the friction is on the inner race so you push on the inner race. Do you understand?

 

I didn't purchase any hub/bearing assembly or post pictures. You gotta look at who posted all that stuff; it wasn't me.
I only replaced the bearing and that was less than a year ago. YES, I pressed on the outer race when installing it into the knuckle. I understand that the friction is where the two surfaces meet and all that, I"m not That dumb.
I just don't know why the bearing went bad again; its either
1. a ****ty bearing
2. a bad/out-of-round knuckle
3. i didn't press the bearing/knuckle assembly onto the hub. But I'm pretty sure this was done b/c I don't think the hub will just slide into the bearing w/o pressure.

So, I got my bearing from NAPA yesterday (SKF brand;$50) and I will be doing this tomorrow since I have no work or school.
I'm not sure where to get dry ice around here anymore so I don't think that will happen, but I am planning on heating up the knuckle to expand it at least.
Thanks for your tips, advice, and knowledge.

and where can I view that FSM for the bearing replacement??

 

I found the installation/removal in FSM volume 2 page AX-7 and AX-8 and as for dry ice look up dryicedirectory.com and enter your area code. Looks like alot of ice suppliers and airgas welding suppliers carry the stuff! Good luck! If you can't find the FSM go to the dealer and let a tech print it up for you...