SterlingMist00

The car has 130K miles and has been bulletproof for the most part. Other than routine maintenace all I have had to replace in almost 9 years are the coils and the starter.

2 months ago I came back to my office from lunch and idled in the parking lot and after 2 minutes it shut down. I have noticed that at stop lights the engine rpms will drop slightly and sometimes it will stall and sometimes it will not.

Any suggestions as to what it may be; I am thinking maybe the idle air control valve needs to be replaced.

Thanks

peterwp

I would say MAF. I just had my IACV replaced and it was throwing the P0505 code. It was having severe idle fluctuations. My MAF is bad (from what I determined from other threads) and I have one on order from DaveB. Search for 'MAF' and see if the other people's symptoms line up with yours. The part is ~$85 and you should be able to replace it yourself.

SterlingMist00

bump...

pmohr

iTrader: (26)

CEL on?

Is it misfiring when this happens, or does it just drop RPMs for no apparent reason?

AEMAXIMA01

iTrader: (3)

This same thing was happening to me about a month ago. Would stall out after being put into neutral coming to stop lights. After reading on here, thought it was the IACV. Took it to the local nissan dealer, turns out it was the MAF. No codes, either. So I wasn't about to pay the dealer what they wanted for the new MAF and install, so I called Dave B, ordered a new one, and put it in myself. No problems since.

SterlingMist00

I have the following CEL that has been on for over 1 year: P0140 is sensor 2 in bank one

....no misfiring.....it just drops RPMs and more often than not it will stall

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That's not too safe!!! That sensor is your Cam position sensor if I'm correct! You might wanna read up on the possible concesquences regarding failure of that part! COULD: Create a no start condition, cause a reduction in engine power, or cause the engine to stop running without warning during vehicle operation, which could result in a crash!

SterlingMist00

Actualy its on O2 sensor: P0141 - Rear O2 Sensor Heater (Bank 1)

i will replace all the O2 sensors and the IACV and take it from there....

irishkid4evr

turn the idle up

PoLo

iTrader: (7)

for me it was a dirty butterfly valve...nothing more.

my symptom: rough idle. after driving, if i pop it into neutral, it would drop real low, sputter a bit, then regain strength and idle fine. other times, it would go low enough that it would simply shut off.

if that's what you have, then let me/us know and i'll follow up with my reasons as to why it's the butterfly valve.

AZNMAXIMA00

I have a 2000 Maxima GXE
I have problems with this car late.....Please help if you can.
I have changed the fuel filter and coils last year and now this is happening.
When I am driving 45mph, the RMP is around 1500 only and when I slow down, it goes down below 1000rpm. And when I am slowing down to the stop light and then completely stop, the rpm is around 500 and then it stalls sometimes. Its crazy dangerous especially on the highway in NYC. Or when I pull over....within a minute in idle with it in park, the engine stalls. And when I try to restart it, the rpm goes up to 3000 and then goes all the way down to 500 and stalls. I have to press the gas for a bit to be able to shift it to drive and move.
At times when I am crusing at 40mph, the rpm goes up and down btw 1000 and 1500 and I always have to watch it in case it goes too low and stalls.
Some people say its the MAF and some say the IACV.....need some advice please.

dewd

Well i was having the exact same problems all i did was replaced my MAF sensor and bought some seafoam which i poured into my gas tank (only used half the can) and my car doesnt stall any more thank god... i think it would definately be the MAF in your case brother

hey btw where in nyc ?
i just moved here drove my maxi here from Miami ;D

AZNMAXIMA00

Thanks dewd....I am about to head over to the stealership and purchase the MAF sensor and swap it out. Thanks and I do hope it works I almost slammed into the car in front of when it stalled while cruising slow off the Willie B. I am out in Queens and traffic is gonna be a headache.

dewd

wow id suggest bringing a screw drive (the wierd shaped one) and when you buy that MAF piece bust out the screw driver and put it on asap. i had the same exact problem luckily i was in FL the streets were alot wider and i always kept about 2 cars behind just incase..

dewd

ah i have a bunch of bike and maxima heads out there in queens jejee

(sry for double post admins)

leescotty2001

Man, I need to maybe replace mines....

shiftyse

Hey guys New-b here. I am also having a similar problem with my 2000 SE 5 spd. I bought this car a few eeks ago and the seller neglected to tell me the car has a habit of stalling when it is warmed up. The car idles fine when cold, but after 15-20 minutes of driving, the idle will drop to 500 or lower and then stall. If I keep driving, it will usually stall as soon as I put the clutch in. I have to let the car sit for about 2 minutes and then start it back up again, then it will run again for a little while but it does start stalling again when coming to stops. Other than the lack of an idle when it is warm the car runs fine. Even when it is stalling, once I restart the car and take off in gear, it runs normally with no misfires and no hesitation. The only codes I have currently are a P0430 which I believe is low-cat efficeincy which I don't think would cause the problem and an open circut for a front ABS sensor. In the stack of reciepts that came along withthe car, I found out that the car had a new MAF installed about 35k ago. The dealer told me taht the MAF P/N was the TSB P/N and that they should last about 75k. They also could not tell me why the car was stalling w/out 1st fixing the P0430 which they told me would cost $1000. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Sorry for the long question

dewd

if its happening to you plain and simple its either the maf the idle, altenator

1 make sure you have the proper idle which should be 700 i believe?
2 make sure when u pop the hoood that your idle sol (possibly the onl y gold piece inyour car) has a small knocker.. make sure it touches the other piece when idle

or maybe even clogged parts like tb or injectors (which are easier and cheaper to take care of)

possibly even coils or battery but make sure u get computer codes read to save yourself plenty of headache and money.

shiftyse

As far as codes go, I have a p0430 for low cat efficiency. My friend has a Tuner shop that specializes in mustangs so I had him read the codes. Also we looked at the O2 sensor readings and the bank 1 sensor 2 was frozen/not moving so I changed it. So far, no CEL but I haven't driven very far. The dealer said I would need to replace the converter,which is also connected to the Y-pipe. I thought I would try the O2 sensor 1st. The Y-pipe and cat are pretty expensive since I have California emissions. Just to be sure though, I just bought a used cali spec converter/y-pipe from an org. member yesterday. I will be surprised though, if this fixes the stalling. The car runs PERFECTLY except for the stalling. No misses, hesitation, rough idle, etc. I will check the Idle solenoid the next time it starts acting up. Also, my coil packs all have a grey dot so they should be the updated versions???

kjunior

When i start the car, it just stall. I need to accelerate a little bit like 5 second. And everything ok. But the situation happen when the car is cold. After everything is ok. the car run well. I go to the dealer and they told me that i need to change my IAC valve and my ECM. They said that my IAC is not good and my ecm is broke because of that. I wanna what do you think ? Do really need to change all that ? I was thinking to start to clean or change my MAF.

Thank you

dewd

well its prolly not necessary but it couldnt hurt...except your wallet.

kjunior

Do i have a advice for me ?? like what i should do for this. I don't want to pay like 1000$ for nothing ! If u know what i mean ...

ypl102

if it's stalling on you in 1st gear with no gas given, see if your front calipers are sticking

Blitzfist

iTrader: (2)

my car is also giving similar problem lately. today when I started it off a warm start(after being driven for a little) the rps dropped and it stalled. Turned it on again and this time the rps dropped and it sputtered a bit then started up. If I tap the gas for like a second, it wont do this. I don't mind hitting the gas but I dont wana mess my car up.

Max_5gen

iTrader: (2)

The dealer clearly tries to make his life easier. I have never seen both of these parts failing - ECU outputs are made intentionally well protected to withstand whatever happens with their loads. Unless of course someone puts external battery voltage there by hands ... but this is different story.

This is my own idea and I have nowhere to check as my car is not stalling: you can unplug your MAF completely and try to drive around. This will make car go into 'safe' mode but the idea is to check if it stops stalling with disconnected MAF. If it does it would call for MAF replacement in my opinion. You better have access to ECU code scanner to erase codes from this experiment. Or you can just replace the MAF and call it a day.

A while ago I was 'cleaning' my MAF and killed it in the process. The car went into that mode (limited rpms mostly) but I didn't notice any other problems.

ikalinin

iTrader: (1)

i agree w/ some ppl on here.. i'm pretty sure its AIR related. change your air filter. clean out your MAF. then i'd go into checking spark plugs, etc... it could even be bad gas. try putting in Amaco(BP) 93.

co1bateman

new here. and having the same problem..the car stalls at lights.cleaned the mas but is just cleaning it help or is it going out

co1bateman

i have changed the intake manifold gasket thinking it was vacume leak but no go.cleaned the tb good and did the seafoam thing......iacv maybe

504boy17th

Before you spend money make sure its not the Cam sensor which was a recall for my car. Dealership took care of it at no cost to me....make sure thats not the issue first.

Good luck!!!

02slead

think cheap, air filter? vacuum leak? then go forward

glassman

I have a 2000 GLE, for a bout the last month it wants to drop rpm when it's cold. It will fall to about 500 and sometimes recover sometimes not. If it's in gear the idle gets really rough, dropping and recovering very jerky. I have to put it in nuetral and give it gas to smooth out. I'm not getting any codes so just trial and error. I've cleaned the maf and tb, also change spark plugs. This has helped some but still not idleing normally. I will try the IACV and egr. This forum has been very informitive, thanks for all the post. Also, what is the seafoam thing?

KRRZ350

iTrader: (29)

Not in this case though. The IACV shorting out & frying the IACV driver inside the ECU on 5th gens is a pretty well documented problem on this forum, there is a very informative thread with where to order a replacement driver, how to replace it, as well as how to fuse it. For a quick check you can usually smell the burnt driver from the passenger floor. This is always accompanied by a dtc though.

joedeezie

i just purchased this car and i am having the same problem. havent attempted to replace anything yet wanted to make sure that i had the problem pinpointed i thought it may be the fuel filter but i dont have any problems while driving just letting the car run while its in park after driving it. when i crank it up in the morning to warm up no issues at all this only happens after i drive it for a lil bit then place it in park and keep the car on. any suggestions?

koreanthunda

Where is the post?